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Hi zzyzzxThank you for your comment and for trying this project - I'm sorry that it's not fully successful at the moment.A few things you might check/try:1) Are you using the specified (ancient) version of Arduino and the compatible Arduin Tiny cores? If the pin assignments are off or the ADC is not working correctly then that would cause problems. If I can find it, I will upload the version of the cores that I used. I'm afraid this is now rather an old project. This is my best guess - that the pin numberings are somehow different with the core you have used so that it's sensing from a different pin to the one that the LED is connected to. IIRC the "output" pin numberings and the "analogue" pin numberings are different with the core I used and so someone may hav...see more »Hi zzyzzxThank you for your comment and for trying this project - I'm sorry that it's not fully successful at the moment.A few things you might check/try:1) Are you using the specified (ancient) version of Arduino and the compatible Arduin Tiny cores? If the pin assignments are off or the ADC is not working correctly then that would cause problems. If I can find it, I will upload the version of the cores that I used. I'm afraid this is now rather an old project. This is my best guess - that the pin numberings are somehow different with the core you have used so that it's sensing from a different pin to the one that the LED is connected to. IIRC the "output" pin numberings and the "analogue" pin numberings are different with the core I used and so someone may have "fixed" that in a newer version of the core.You could even put on 3 LEDs - one between ground and each of pins 2, 3 and 7 (actual chip pin numbering) and see if that makes a difference. If it works like that then you just need to work out what "A" pin corresponds to the correct chip pin.2) Try it briefly without the resistor - The current that flows to the pin in "high impedance" mode should be so low that the resistor should not make a difference to the measurement. You shouldn't connect a red LED directly but the pulses are short and ATTinys are cheap and tough-as-nails so it might be worth risking without the resistor to see if it makes a difference. It shouldn't but it might be worth trying.3) Try a different LED - red LEDs should sense red light but there is a possible, if somewhat contrived, situation where if the LED and it was fundamentally a more blue colour but made red by some fluorescent type material then it would not work backwards as a photodiode because only red can get through your tinted lens. This is getting into the realms of the theoretical & fantastical but try switching the LED. In fact, you could try with blue or white, clear lens and no resistor, if you have such an LED in your parts box. If that doesn't work then I think it really must be a code issue.I would investigate the pin assignments primarily or do a test with a blue clear LED if you have one.Meanwhile, I'll send you a PM with your prize "Pro" membership - that's not conditional on bug fixing.Good luck!Ugi
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Hi Arthur!Thank you for your comment and also for your great work on the display library! One thing that gave me confidence going into this project was knowing that I could drive the display efficiently using your library and have plenty of processor time left for the game (my coding is not exactly the most refined!).I did not know you were on Instructables or I would have linked to your profile - I'll do that now. If I make anything else based on this display, I'll be sure to let you know.Thanks again.Ugi
The green wire should be a high-impedance "sensing" connection, like an Arduino "input" pin so should not be any threat to your Ardu'.I put a 1K on that line out of an abundance of caution because that limits the current if there were any issues. However, it should be completely unnecessary.My only caveat here is that there are many makes and builds of ATX power supplies and although they should all conform to similar standards I have not made any attempt to test them widely. It is therefore just possible that _your_ ATX supply is different to those I have tried. I think the chances are very small, but if in doubt, put a meter on the pin, then ground it and measure the current flowing.Ugi
Great!Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for posting such a kind comment. Did you take a photo of your machine? If you did, post it and there's a 3-month pro-membership for you so you can look around instructables for other projects you fancy without all those annoying ad's!Keep up those projects!Ugi
Nice build. Hope it sounds good, 'cos it certainly looks it!I may have missed it, but do you have a sound post? That's the bit of dowel that sits under the bridge and braces the top against the bottom. It's the most important internal part of a normal violin for getting a decent sound. It also stops the top from collapsing under the pressure of the bridge.Your top looks narrower and stronger than a normal violin, but it's also flatter, where a violin gets some strength from being arched on the top and bottom. I would still expect that you needed a sound post both for strength and particularly for sound quality.Ugi
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