VitG

Robert, the photo of the nice boots being free from trailing tails and all connected problems is quite telling indeed. Thank you for posting it!

The height of the original cup is 118 mm, diameter of its top is 78 mm, width of the bottom is 46 mm. Vertical angles are 25 deg to vertical (shorter cut, about 4mm offset from the vertical axis of symmetry of the cup) and 18 deg to vertical (longer cut, about 4mm offset from the vertical axle of symmetry of the cup). Sure all these dimensions can vary in quite a wide range. At the same time, it's very important to make the lateral surfaces really flat (using sandpaper as shown in the post can be really helpful in this regard).

To avoid these issues you might check two points:1. The half-knot is tightened in the second (not the first!) from above row of eyelets.2. The loosened segment of the shoelace (shown red in Step 5 of the instructable) should preferably be exactly that - loosened a bit (do not tighten it).Hope this helps.

Thank you for a nice piece of Oriental poetry!

Good question! We already have the Ukrainian Lacing technique here on Instructables. This solution might be called e.g. the Curvy Scraper. Other suggestions are welcome!

Thank you so much for the comment. Instructables is a really great place for sharing ideas from all over the world.

Don't feel bad, I'd never use (nor recommend) a jug with handle for this... "Small details can make a big difference."

Don't feel bad, I'd never use a jug with handle for this...

You can't imagine how eagerly I've waited for this comment (horses do the job perfectly). Actually, I'm surprised it took so much time to appear :-).

A square bottom is not a must. A round bottom cup will also work well. Actually, there is a lot of space for experiments there in this regard. Another aspect to ponder about is the "optimal" size of the cup. I incline to smaller ones as they are easier to hold and to store being quite effective at the same time (especially for smaller receptacles).