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Great Job.A tip I learned from PC case moding. You should (whenever possible) hide the LED itself. Sources of light draw attention in a bad way, while not an issue for a down and dirty workbench, they distract from what you want to illuminate in nicer projects like this one. So if you're like me and have cabinets without a recessed underside (like pictured here) consider either routing a small channel for the LED's (for solid hardwood cabinets that you've got off the wall) or using some trim molding on the front to create a little lip to keep the led's to out of sight.
Like the author said they can be hardened. I have a historic bronze dagger from the ~1000BC timeframe and the work hardening and subsequent chipping produces an almost natural serrated edge. When compared to contemporary wrought blades the bronze blades were of much higher quality. Iron won out in the end as it was cheaper and easier to produce than the alloyed bronze.
A blacksmithing buddy used the router sled method to flatten and level all edges of a serious log for his 200lb anvil. Came out real well.
Looking at your photo's a lot of the stars have a red or purple hue and it got me to thinking. Has anybody has done the near IR hack (removing the IR filters above the CMOS sensor) on a halfway decent camera and tried this. I'm just curious how different the sky looks when seeing some of the red shifted stars that otherwise would be almost invisible are now quite visible. When it's time to upgrade my Nikon to something newer I'll do it but that's a few years out still. Hrmmm maybe if I come across a good deal on ebay or amazon I'll give it a shot.
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