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if the turbo actuator moves when the vacuum line is unplugged (I assume after the engine is run) it says you have a plugged vacuum line to the air box, the N75 valve always releases the vacuum pressure through that port when the engine is shut off. The swap itself won't cause low power. Did you recode the ECU as well?
It's common for a vacuum line to come unplugged between the vacuum pump and the first junction behind the N80 valve. It's at the back of the engine compartment, on center, just to the left side of the car (as seen from the back of the car). That's the most common problem for no turbo after the swap is done.
the transmission computer stays unplugged. 021906018Q is coming up as an automatic 00-01 VR6 ECU, not a manual.
Did you remove the transmission computer from the harness?which module is the code in?what is the part number for the ECU?
Oh, and no you don't need to replace the cluster.
If it's not cranking, did you replace the 175 relay with a 53 relay?Also. Did you connect the brown wire from the 175 socket to one side of the top switch, and the black/blue ***relay*** side wire to the other side of the switch?
Is it not starting, or not cranking?the 1.8T is totally different than the TDI, but the wiring for the 53 relay conversion is the same.
no, not unless you want to disassemble the whole car, and do the body harness while you are in there.
Touching the battery terminals together does nothing on any car past 1996. ECU won't have anything to do with it spinning the engine or not.What codes were in the system?
Which car do you have?You will need to program the ECU for the immobilizer to get it started, assuming you switched the ECU.
This instructable wasn't designed for 1.8T swaps, only TDI swapsThere are a ton of people who are doing this, however it's not even close to the same thing for wiring the cruise.1) did you put in a manual ECU?2) Did you connect the VSS sensor to the instrument cluster?3) Did you connect the A27 bus from the ECU to the instrument cluster?These are not covered by this instructable, it's over the head of most everyone I've tried to instruct online, so I leave it blank for those who can read a bentley manual.
assuming it's a TDI, you'd have a check engine light for the automatic transmission computer, missing. no cruise cancel on the clutch pedal, and I'm sure there would be some hanging idle issues as well.
Nothing to do with the alarm, so no idea.... you didn't hear it from this page.transmission harness shouldn't even be plugged in
As for reverse lights, it's directly connected from the switch on the transmission to the reverse lights, can't screw it up, so I highly doubt they did any wiring if this isn't working, along with the speedo, and cruise... my guess is you still have PRNDL in your instrument cluster, meaning they just got the car to start using a different relay or something, then didn't do anything else... really really horrible shop, don't take it there any more.
assuming it's a 1999-2003 TDI, that's correct.
which car is it? there are a lot of different transmission options, some of which need much more wiring than what is on this page. As for the door lock and alarm, if the door lock won't work, then the alarm won't set. but it has nothing to do with the swap (unless the shop did something to your door lock).Sounds like a warranty job at the place it was done.my shop is www.dspauto.com, I'm in North Texas if you want to bring it to me to figure out what they screwed up.
It should just plug in. If the connector is different, just use the connector from the automatic transmission
It should work just fine, TDI people have been using 1.8T starters for the longest time if they need something in a pinch.
the key, cluster, and ecu are all interconnected, it's called an immobilizer. have you tried to change the fuel filter? you'll need to prime the system again, but inability to rev in a diesel is fuel limited, there may be other problems as well, but again it's not the swap that would have caused the issue. might try sending me a message instead of posting it on the discussion, since it's no longer a problem with the transmission swap.
It's not going to be a part of the swap why it's not revving past 1800 RPM, what codes are in the system? and did you check your vacuum lines? also have you tried to unplug your MAF?
what are your symptoms?
I'd check your vacuum lines, occasionally, by moving the engine around to getting the transmissions in and out it will pull on the vacuum lines. it's usually the line that goes to the anti-shutter valve behind the intake leading into the main lines behind the small coolant line
check out:http://dspauto.com/node/33this instructable is for an ALH version only. yours is a BEW.The reverse, and starter wiring is the same, just the cruise control and A23 bus is different.
the link goes to my web page, but it does have wiring instructions like on here. the web page has my phone number
Never had that problem... maybe you have the wiring going to the wrong pin in the ECU?What codes do you have?
You need to have a 1.8T, 2.0l, or TDI transmission to fit it. The 1.8T if you use something out of a 2.0 or a TDI will need to be tuned to let the cruise control work correctly, you'll also need the computer from a manual, and the immobilizer code for the ECU and your instrument cluster. The cruise control is different between the TDI and the 1.8T, and if yours was a 5 speed you'll need to wire up the speed sensor, and A23 bus as well.
The reverse lights, and starter section are the same, the cruise is (mostly) different. I'll need some time to write up a wiring instructable for a 1.8T jetta.You will also need an ecu and some way of programming the immobilizer on the manual ecu.
No it will mate up, you can keep the automatic axles as they are the 108mm the 1.8t manual uses. Wiring will be the same as listed on tdiclub forums or on dspauto.com... the beetle wiring is a little different than the jetta/golfYou likely will be pushing 3500 RPM at highway speeds... You might look into getting a .612 5th gear. you can have close ratio gears 1-4 and a tall 5th.
No, but there is no need to use the manual dash, I think you are thinking too hard on how to finish the project. if you follow the instructable it will be working correctly without having to pull everything apart, it's only a few small cuts on the existing harness, then splice in 3 connectors, install a wire in the ECU and you are basically done. The way you are doing it adds hours upon hours of labor.
the ECM will need to be programmed or it will not be able to start, you'll need to find someone who can do a VCDS readaptation of the instrument cluster to allow the ECU to start. This is much harder than just keeping the ECU that came with the automatic and converting it to a manual coding, however both require a VCDS (vag-com) cable. The instructable only covers converting the automatic harness to the manual harness, therefore I'll need to completely write up a new instructable for this, or append this instructable for the scenario you have listed... by swapping the harness and the ECU you have complicated the swap at least by a measure of 6-10 hours, possibly more. It will be easier if you just follow the instructable, convert it back to an automatic harness and go from there.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=258297this is the best writeup of the hammer mod
that's a lot of work! modifying the wiring harness from the automatic would have been easier... only takes me about 2 hours for everything. Swapping the entire harness takes days.The injection pump from the automatic is actually a better pump for performance reasons, it's called an 11mm pump, and you'll need to do the "hammer mod" to it if it idles rough or has a slowdown shutter.
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