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Making small fiberglass parts...
Awhile back, I scrapped the remains of a PS4 wireless Controller, and salvaged the 3.7V Lithium-Ion battery pack from it.. I inserted two short IDC header pins (roughly 3/8" (a little more than 1.5cm) into the pack's plug, and I soldered a 2X4 IDC socket header into the VDD/VSS pins to the right of the 40-pin header on the Quickstart. The battery pack NEVER gets charged any other method, other than plugging it into the header, and charging the pack through the onboard-3.3V regulator, while the chips are at idle (a simple print "Hello" program written to RAM, which stays dormant after it runs from the USB terminal), and the + pin plugged into the VDD pins and - pin plugged into the VSS pin of the 2X4 header. Strictly a short-term battery which will allow running the quickstart for a little while after the USB plug is unplugged. I've also run the device from a pair of Lithium-Ion batteries (2x in parallel, scavenged from a Laptop battery pack, and separated from the rest of the pack & electronics) the same way.. As long as the battery is charged through the regulator, there is little chance of the pack rising in voltage above 3.4V.. But.... this is still not a recommended method.. (already got chewed out in the Parallax forums, warning that the pack if charged normally (5V directly to the pack), it can retain up to 4.4V (.7V more), which could be detrimental to the propeller. Well understood!) I only use the packs for short-term use. Mainly for the 'Whack-A-Mole' game while waiting for other things to finish.
A custom shield for the Propeller ASC - Infra-Red Remote Control - and multiple COGS!
Propeller Power for the Arduino
Without the software it's useless
Meet the Parallax Propeller QuickStart board
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