chylld
- Date Joined:Jul 12, 2010
- Instructables:1
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- Comments:5
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» haha the one print I decided not to look at ended up being the most awesome!you're more…
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» I did do the cabinet doors, although it was a much cleaner retrofit. I simply purchased…
» That drawer looks like it will work - the spring/latch and damper mechanisms seem ident…
» Thanks for the comment. I actually used those exact door buffers on my drawers before t…
» very nice work! feel free to upload your print of the vica sculpture to my Thingiverse …
» I did do the cabinet doors, although it was a much cleaner retrofit. I simply purchased…
» That drawer looks like it will work - the spring/latch and damper mechanisms seem ident…
» Thanks for the comment. I actually used those exact door buffers on my drawers before t…
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Jun 24, 2011. 4:16 PMGod_666
says:
Hi Chylld, love your work, a great job. I have just had a bathroom vanity delivered and I want to convert it to soft close (it was $150 per drawer if I had wanted to include soft close in the original purchase price and it has two drawers so that was a bit cost prohibitive).
I want to explore a slightly different tack here and that is the option of fitting their drawers to my cabinet. I have not yet been into Ikea to have a look at the drawers you have outlined however, I have had a browse on their website. I assume you can take their drawers and fit them to any cabinet as they seem to include all the necessary hardware. My question is, whether you can take their existing drawers and make them wider if they don't exactly fit your cabinet? My cabinet internals are approx 850mm wide and they do make a drawer that is 755mm wide (finish size). I see two options, either block out the inside of the cabinet so that the internal width suits the 755mm drawer or possibly make the drawer wider by replacing/adding to the back panel. I can't tell what the construction of the back panel is, in your view, is this an option?
If this is not an option, I can adopt your instructional and just use their soft closers. The other aspect that atttracts me to their drawers is that they seem to be of better construction than mine.
Cheers,
Gary
I want to explore a slightly different tack here and that is the option of fitting their drawers to my cabinet. I have not yet been into Ikea to have a look at the drawers you have outlined however, I have had a browse on their website. I assume you can take their drawers and fit them to any cabinet as they seem to include all the necessary hardware. My question is, whether you can take their existing drawers and make them wider if they don't exactly fit your cabinet? My cabinet internals are approx 850mm wide and they do make a drawer that is 755mm wide (finish size). I see two options, either block out the inside of the cabinet so that the internal width suits the 755mm drawer or possibly make the drawer wider by replacing/adding to the back panel. I can't tell what the construction of the back panel is, in your view, is this an option?
If this is not an option, I can adopt your instructional and just use their soft closers. The other aspect that atttracts me to their drawers is that they seem to be of better construction than mine.
Cheers,
Gary
Jun 25, 2011. 2:37 AMGod_666
says:
Thanks for that advice, I suspect the neatest will be to go for they way you did the original conversion. Cheers, Gary
Jun 24, 2011. 10:45 PMchylld (author)
says:
The front and back of the line of drawers I linked to are unfortunately Aluminum, so they will not be easily extendible. The base is just a piece of particle board though.
Perhaps rather than simply blocking it out, after dividing it perhaps you can use your new ~80mm space to house a pull-out towel rack? Or if you put small shelves in you might be able to fit little face towels etc.
Perhaps rather than simply blocking it out, after dividing it perhaps you can use your new ~80mm space to house a pull-out towel rack? Or if you put small shelves in you might be able to fit little face towels etc.
Jul 31, 2010. 5:16 PMlynnwords
says:
Hi, any interest in creating blumotion re-tracking guide? I didn't install mine, but want to get them back on track myself. Thanks, Lynn
Jul 31, 2010. 5:48 PMchylld (author)
says:
Hi Lynn, it definitely sounds like a project worth tackling. What model of blumotion system do you have (any pictures?) What problems are you having, e.g. is it not closing all the way, or closing too hard/too soft?
Dec 19, 2010. 1:54 PMlynnwords
says:
Hi Chylid,
One style I have is "blumotion tandem plus". The issue for me is that sometimes I need to remove the drawer to access the plumbing or to clean. It's installed a few inches from the floor, so I have to re-install it by feel. I wonder if you could explain in such a way that I can become confident in taking my drawer on and off! Thanks for your interest. I've included images.
Lynn
One style I have is "blumotion tandem plus". The issue for me is that sometimes I need to remove the drawer to access the plumbing or to clean. It's installed a few inches from the floor, so I have to re-install it by feel. I wonder if you could explain in such a way that I can become confident in taking my drawer on and off! Thanks for your interest. I've included images.
Lynn
Dec 19, 2010. 3:33 PMchylld (author)
says:
Hi Lynn,
If you aren't unscrewing the brackets and rails from the cabinet/drawer, you shouldn't need to worry about alignment as the drawer should simply pop back in at the correct position. It might take a little jiggling, but you shouldn't have much difficulty.
If on the other hand you do need to realign the parts (e.g. moving the drawer to a new cabinet) then I found the best way is to dry-assemble the drawer and rail outside of the cabinet, use a ruler to take note of the offset from the drawer front and bottom, and mark the positions on the cabinet as accurately as you can.
If you end up being a bit off, I think you will still have some ability to adjust the front panel position using the adjustment screws at the front of each side panel.
Good luck!
If you aren't unscrewing the brackets and rails from the cabinet/drawer, you shouldn't need to worry about alignment as the drawer should simply pop back in at the correct position. It might take a little jiggling, but you shouldn't have much difficulty.
If on the other hand you do need to realign the parts (e.g. moving the drawer to a new cabinet) then I found the best way is to dry-assemble the drawer and rail outside of the cabinet, use a ruler to take note of the offset from the drawer front and bottom, and mark the positions on the cabinet as accurately as you can.
If you end up being a bit off, I think you will still have some ability to adjust the front panel position using the adjustment screws at the front of each side panel.
Good luck!
Dec 19, 2010. 8:12 PMchylld (author)
says:
Hi,
That could be a tricky one, I don't have exactly the same model so I don't know how it works. However, on the part attached to the cabinet wall, see if anything can be pulled toward you and then locked into place. You may need to pull against some spring tension so be careful - however if there is something to pull and it's in the back position then the drawer won't go in.
Failing this, another alternative is to unscrew the component attached to the cabinet, so that you can fit it to the drawer outside and understand how it works. When you've figured it out, reinstall it in the same holes and hopefully you won't have any more problems!
That could be a tricky one, I don't have exactly the same model so I don't know how it works. However, on the part attached to the cabinet wall, see if anything can be pulled toward you and then locked into place. You may need to pull against some spring tension so be careful - however if there is something to pull and it's in the back position then the drawer won't go in.
Failing this, another alternative is to unscrew the component attached to the cabinet, so that you can fit it to the drawer outside and understand how it works. When you've figured it out, reinstall it in the same holes and hopefully you won't have any more problems!
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