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"Splat mat"? I love it!!
In regular woodworking, you secure the diagonal piece with glue plus 18 ga nailgun. If you clamp a diagonal into a 90º, you have to be spreading the angle. The angle blocks are great but not in this construction.
And it strikes me that any but the lightest clamping will bend the 90º to 93, 95, 97º.. Keep a good square on the angle and give it a try. You might also create a double hooked piece that prevents spreading. Could also place the rt-angle assembly facedown on a piece of plywood with wood strips hard against both sides so it can't spread.
Have you experimented by pouring your oil liquid into a baggie, and seeing how that behaves in a vat of your other fluid?
Seems like mineral oil is utterly colorless [water-white] and not cloudy. Tried it?
Cool but I also like starting a fire with a gum wrapper. Do you know that one?
"tounge and goove" should read 'Tongue and groove' and is now commonly called center-matched lumber.
It's ordinary styrofoam. I might have said I used a Sur-form tool on it after the saws, and then we sanded it. Thanks.
There's a multi-location company, Drew Foam, that sells plastic foam. Most of their sales are 2' x 4' foam sheets used for insulation and packing. They have the big hotwire cutters to make many large foam parts as well.
I believe I covered that, no?
Make a giant statueView Instructable »
Whew! I hate to say it but this technique, while valid, uses about 5 times the silicone necessary and many extra steps. You insist on UltraCal which is hard to find and is far harder/stronger than needed. Its only benefit is, absolutely zero expansion, making it necessary for precision foundry work. Go with any casting plaster, you won't see a difference.Knocked out by your plasticene sculptures of wee gears but they seem too delicate to work with as shown here.
Don't know where you might be but you only get 120V out of an American outlet. Who led you to believe otherwise?
You;re right! It is a bit confusing. The voltages expressed are just approximate. The most common pairs are 110/220 and 120/240.Due to line drops, the actual voltage into your home will vary with the distance from the transformer on the pole. It may be several volts above 120 if close, and as low as 107 if some distance away.Just to cross your eyes further, the actual standard is supposed to be 117/234 VAC. L
What is simulated cedar? The best outdoor woods are teak, cedar, cypress, redwood.. Worst might be maple.
Tell us about your decision to rout the latch into the wood. Never seen that before.
Making the gate frame, you're screwing into end grain. This is okay for positioning lumber but never count on such a joint. If you put a block of 2x4 inside each corner, and screw into that from both directions, your joints will be far stronger.
Can't argue with your results but you can see it would be faster to put up your fenceboards, then snap a line and cut them all at once - if you're good with a circular saw. Some want a nice curve on the top line of the gate so you'd use a saber saw.
Not to get all know-it-all but I'm telling ALL newbies and a few experienced people, don't design anything with joints where you screw or worse, nail into endgrain. Can also use the galv steel joint reinforcers.
Is this a sort-of kinky thing now? Does it narrow your waist or is it around your ribcage? Dyeing leather.. is this something that sweat can dissolve?
If you have a regular-sized hole you are better off gluing a peg (dowel) in it than fooling with putty.
Aahhh, did this in Jr high.. we're all in the Indian Ocean
<Besides the wood is cheaper, > Cheaper? than what? Untreated?
You did a fine job if that's the look you want. I'd want them less pillow-y. Most older homeowners know too well that bags of concrete mix eventually become rocks, but the familiar pillow shape.. You can take a mineral hammer to them and get a craggy rock look. And if I were a burglar, I'd look under every too-perfect rock for the key!
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