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Thank you. The only modification you'll need to make for a 4 section chandelier are to the central slotted disks, which would only require 4 slots in a cross formation. You can certainly scale this to any size you like, but you should be sure that the slots on both the chandelier sections and the disks are just slightly thinner than your foam core for a good fit. Good luck! :)
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OMG! You nailed it! You look fantastic! I really love all of your clever touches including both women's versions! Beautiful and great fun! Great group photo too!
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You look awesome! Thanks for sharing your efforts. I'm certain you were popular! Glad to have helped.
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Can't wait! Sounds fun!
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Thanks for sharing your project! It's great to learn of the compatibility of that style of adjustable lamp with pipe threads. Plenty of possibilities with this information! I'm using very low wattage 11-watt sign bulbs in my example. I wouldn't go any brighter than 25 watts if you want a golden glow from them and to prevent any heat issues. I like this short size with the flanged base.
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Yes, the dotted lines are for length adjustments of those parts. You've got the right idea. Good luck!
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Hmmm... In my example, I use a very low watt 11-watt S-14 style incandescent bulb that, is also dimmed. They are very "warm and cozy", not harsh at all. I have a similar setup in my living room and they are equivalent to having candles lit.
You also could spray a glass-frost paint on the inside of the mason jars for a more muted, glowing effect which would be pretty.
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I would recommend using one of the http://www.simflame.com units. The 3 channel would suffice, but 5 ($20 more) would be an improvement and make things easier for you. You'll just want to mix them up a bit with the arrangement of your jack-o-lanterns so to avoid having two adjacent that are on the same channel.
It is tough to capture dark scenes, but especially when there are high contrast elements like the jack-o-lantern faces. With what I am able to see from your setup, I might suggest moving your purple light to the wall/fence in the background to balance the setting out more, and add another light or two in the general range indicated in the illustration included in the instructions. It will both improve the display and the ability to capture it with a camera. :) Amazon offers relatively inexpensive RGB LED flood lights that do a great job. I've used the 50w versions (actually only 15 watts, but plenty bright). I have them flooding this past year's display directly from the side in these images- and hidden behind the columns. Thanks for taking the time to share your efforts! You can see th...see more »
The perceived brightness of your projection is relative to the ambient lighting of your display environment. As a general guide, the projection should appear to be the same brightness as your illuminated pumpkins, which you can control if they are electrically lit. The distance of your projector, and the age of an incandescent lamp can also affect the projector brightness. Brand is of less importance than specifications and general quality. Yours both sound good. Most of the LED lamp based projectors that are in the $200 or less range are just barely able to produce an acceptable result with extra care being put into adjusting the ambient light. I can't stress enough the improvement you'll get by adding soft illumination from the back or side as indicated in the instructions. It adds an...see more »
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You're welcome for the tutorial. Johnster000's modifications are indeed awesome! Good luck with yours and please share the results!
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That's awesome! You look fantastic! Your modifications are spectacular. Thanks so much for sharing!
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You look GREAT! I absolutely LOVE your adaptation! So clever! It's my birthday today, and this made for a wonderful gift, thank you! I hope you had a great time all dressed up!
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Thank you! This could be a good starter project. Plus, this can be a zero "wiring" project If you were to purchase pre-wired LED tape and used the lamp socket adaptor option I mention. Good luck! :)
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Oh good. ;) it's the most ridiculous part of this. The fancy Kitchenaid logo was perhaps the only quality item from that that dead fridge. Love this budget Frigidaire!
You are welcome!
The lights and transformer are only receiving power when the door is open and you are (hopefully) standing in front of it. Your fridge would have to be open for entirely too long before there could be any noticeable warming in the transformer, which under most circumstances is in a refrigerated environment.
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Thoughtful, thorough and easy-to-follow reference! Thanks for this great Instructable!
Thoughtful, thorough and easy-to-follow reference! Thanks for this great Instructable!
Thoughtful, thorough and easy-to-follow reference! Thanks for this great Instructable!
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I have a special place in my heart for flip displays and you sir, have done a spectacular job, both with the project and the Instructable. Mighty impressed! Great design choices too. Bravo! This would be my first foray into many of the skills required for this, but you've created something super inspiring. Thanks!
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What comes to mind:Running the wires for new LED strip out a discreet edge of your fridge. LED wires can be very small, or even flat, and the edging on your door is a little squishy and shouldn't cause any issue with the seal.That doesn't solve the control issue. A photocell wired in-line might work well if it's inside the fridge. Those are pretty easy to find. I'd think you would want it to be automatic on/off to not become tedious, but any variety of simple switch would certainly work. There are also re-chargeable bright LED shelf lights with photocells which would function well, but would require periodic recharging which also might grow tedious. One of several options:http://a.co/5TDarXFanother option:http://a.co/5acCRdZgood luck!
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