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Ultimaker 2 – Use 5v Contro...View Instructable »
Thank you.Have you looked at the page on Smoothieware for this? They call it H-bot for some reason:http://smoothieware.org/hbot
Might find this thread usefull as well:http://forum.smoothieware.org/forum/t-1812458
For the heater problem you propably need to define your heater 2 with the correct pins - meaning other pins than you use for heater 1.After you have defined the pins correctly, you should do the mandatory PID tuning of the heater :)
Rusty Junk to Useful Stuff EASY With Chemistry!
I'm actually not sure, but I have been asked this before.I personally used an external driver board and driver connected to the pins on the driver I wanted to "clone". This way they are given the exact same instructions.
Duex5 - Use Build in 12v Sw...View Instructable »
Without jumpers means you run without microstepping.If you insert all 3 jumpers it might not move at all at untill you modify steps/mm since it means 1/16 microstepping. If you use the jumpers and modify the steps you are going to get a much smoother and quieter result. The torque is also going to be a tad less, but nothing you should be able to notice on a 3D printer.What is your steps/mm now?
Hello entropy,You just solder all pins on. Regardless of jumpersettings.Jumpers depends on multistepping settings you want to achieve. I've corrected the jumper table. It had lost it formating for some reason.I recommend having all 3 jumpers in place to use highest microstepping.CNC people are going to say you should run wiht lowest multistepping as possible for greatest power, but 3D printer is not a CNC, and we want the smoother running -> lower noice while the power is still plenty for any 3D Printer.jumper Yes/No step size1 2 3no no no full stepyes no no half stepno yes no 1/4 stepyes yes no 1/8 stepyes yes yes 1/16 step
There are true PWM pins you can use along with other pins.# Pins# P2.4 (FAN), P2.5(Hot-Bed), P2.6 (Heater 2), P2,7 (Heater 1)# P1.18, P1.20, P1.21, P1.23 (PWM)# P2.0 (X step)# 2.1 (Y step)# 2.2 (Z step )# 2.3 (E0 step)# 2.8 (e1 step)# Tested PWM: P1.23 og EXP2 P3.25, P3.26# P1.24 (x min endstop)# P1.25 (x-max endstop)# P1.26 (y min-endstop)# P1,27 (Y max endstop)# P1,28 (Z min endstop)# P1,29 (Z max endstop)
MKS 1.5 is NOT 32bit, unless it is a counterfit model with wrong numbering. 1.5 is arduino, so marlin is the right one.
Hello Amorris00. I do not use height sensors. I can recommend using very strong springs for the bed and 3 fingerscrews for easy adjustment. Look at how the Ultimaker 2 is doing this. :)
I must admit I do not entirely follow what you said and what is the result?
Here are a couple of explanatatory pages:https://www.circuitspecialists.com/blog/unipolar-stepper-motor-vs-bipolar-stepper-motors/andhttps://www.quora.com/What-is-the-difference-between-bipolar-unipolar-stepper-motorBut really, you just want bipolar motors.I don't know what "idk" means. We are from many different countries, so using abbreviations often ruins the understanding between us. Same with "plz", which _I_ know means please, but again... abbreviations are bad, especially made up ones :) I don't know what you mean with "chopping constant durrent drive"?Id say that you should find a different motor, if it doesn't work using an a4988 driver :)
Using mosfet and resistors, which needs to be soldered, is much too much bother for most people.. too much hassle and potential for errors and such.
I guess it might.I'm using various mosfet boards as well, which are basically fan extenders.Try searching for "arduino mosfet board" on ebay or similar.Cheers
Chocolate Extruder for Ultimaker
Cool1 looks really nice on the pen part.It IS a long road... I'm actually thinking about building mine again and write up a new instructable, as I know a lot more now, than I did then :)
Nice find! I havn't had this issue myself, so quite odd. Your firmware is much newer than when I used Marlin though, so it might have changed.If you have the energy to do so, you should report it on the Github site for Marlin.
ThanksIf I remember correctly, the D9 is by default activated using M106 unless you have changed type to Bed, Extruder, Extruder?Tried a different fan?Are you using M106 alone or M106 S255 ?
Have you tried a different computer and/or usb cable? It can be something like that.
No, they run on both 12 and 24v
Have you tried with different Gcode files? Made sure the baudrate is the same on display and in firmware? (It must be since you can move it, but just to be sure).Try updating firmware on both.The MKS Base 1.5 is not smoothieware but normal 8bit marlinhttps://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3D-Printer-Control-motherboard-MKS-BASE-V1-0-compatible-RAMPS-1-4-Printer-Control-Reprap-MendelPrusa/1047297_2031109769.htmlNewest 32bit Smoothiewaere is MKS Sbase 1,3 https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3Dpriter-control-board-MKS-SBase-V1-0-32-s-Motherboard-compatible-Smoothieware-open-source-firmware-support/1047297_32384368763.htmlNotice how smoothieware is Sbase, and the other is BaseRegards,MortenDenmark
Just click my username :)
Wow, that is just awesome! Thank you for sharing :)I have written other instructables for larger pritners as well :)
Doh, sorry. Don't know where I had my head.I don't know about the LCD12864, but I know they have written a small guide on their webshop on Aliexpress.
Hello CharleWThank you for your feedback. In order to use the LCD12864 you need to scroll down in the configuration.h file and uncomment the:REPRAP_DISCOUNT_FULL_GRAPHIC_SMART_CONTROLLERIt is not:REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLERYou can get more info on your LCD here:http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Full_Graphic_Smart_ControllerHope it helps
It's most likely because the baudrate on tft is not the same as on the controller.They need to be the same :)
Heya mshievitz. It's stable now? Asking as I played a bit with it (not overly much), but had some issues with the fans I use to cool the printed objects.Can't rule out wheter it was just the fans though :)Nice input :)
Did you change the multistepping on hardware as well?What kind of drivers and controller did/do you have?Regardless of it being odd, you should just double it again :)
5 Ways to Remove a Stripped Screw
Hello HIM,I do not own an MKS Gen 1,4 board.You are welcome to contact MKS and ask for it, as they might want me to make an instructables, if enough people are asking for it.The Gen 1,4 is working as Ramps 1.4 but with a bit different layout.
It's much cheaper to buy directly from the manufacturer. Even though you have to pay import taxes and vat etc.But we have a few sellers in Denmark. I don't know about their shipping policy or pricing though.http://3deksperten.dk/mks-sbase-v1-3-controller-board-mainboard-32bit.htmlRegards,Morten
I have no experience using smoothieware on corexy, but I guess it should work fine.I do not know if second homing works differently on CoreXY. Is it important for you it moves out and back in?Firmware from makerbase.com is just a really old version of the original firmware, so I'll not recommend using that.I'll recommend you go back to new firmware and check your endstops are working.Reason for the "noise from steppers untill reset" is because they are powered on. You can issue the Gcode M18 http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M18:_Disable_all_stepper_motors to turn motors off. This will remove the noise and make steppers easy to move.You should not move the steppers/axes manually with motors engaged. Worst case you can ruin the drivers on the controller board.
I meant to use the multimeter to make sure the polarity of the wires, and look on the +/- signs on the extender board :)
Also baud rate in controller firmware set to 250000? I believe it's standard at 128000, but check your config.txt file.
I said check config.txt but you can also just change baud in TFT and see if it doesn't fix it.
Win_install.cmd is only if you want to compile your own firmware - we don't want to do that. At least not in my instructables, where we use the pre-compiled firmware.bin filesNot entirely sure what you mean about config file, but I think you have misunderstodd how the firmware works.1) You do not want/need to use the win_install.cmd to compile your own firmware.2) You copy over the firmware.bin file from smoothiewares github (I link directly to it)3) You copy over your config.txt file4) You power off - including remove USB.5) Reconnect USB and the card flashes (reads) the firmware to the card.6) The firmware.bin file is automatically renamed firmware.curRegarding 12v. Might be because your 5v through USB isn't high enough amperage.
Hello titeuf.Thanks, but I no longer use these :)
The inner workings of Counterfeit FOTEK SSRs
Edited the section regarding drivers and firmware in an attempt to make it more clear to use MKS drivers and firmware from Smoothieware.I removed some links directed at MKS, as they removed the info I linked to. They have changed some on their Github, but I'm trying to find out why and what. (asking them)Remember the "nice comment policy" people. In the past days we have had an unfortunate individual trolling in here, which is rather sad all considering.
I'm not attacking Smoothieware. I'm PROMOTING smoothieware. FOR FREE.What I am doing is helping people for free. Doing your work. For Free. I'm stating facts about the unfriendly tone of your Google groups, as thousands of people see them (gathered from all the countless messages I recieve).It's ok you view it differently, since you have promoted that kind of environment.Just please do not come over here, and ruin the good mood.In this forum, we try to HELP each other. Not Critize each other.
Regarding your "document".. I can put together an endless list of pointless attacks you have made, here, on your own foras, github and especially on the reprap forums.. but I try to focus on furthering the community, not hammering anyone.Yes, I can get carried away now and then, I am humand, and this is not my work, so my work cap is not on... but I do not go search for people to annoy.. like you do here.Can't you see how bad it is you come here like this Arthur? I'm freaking trying to promote Smoothieware, but you, as the people who has most to gain, work very actively to destroy it by being so darned negative.
Maybe :) What controller do you have, and do you have access to firmware or other settings for multistepping?
You know you can save as draft and then publish it all when you are done?Reprap.me, the maker of the Original Diamond Hotend, are working on a 5way Diamond Hotend now. Just to answer @Tengo10Heatsinks not being properly prepared on this photo, but the Diamond tip is :)
I have crimped my own motor wires. I usually start using a needle-clamp (I think it's called that. I'm danish). I then use a very cheap crimp tool I bought in Biltema (Scandinavian store). But it's the same as any cheap crimp tool you can buy anywhere. Sometimes tweak it with my needle-plier after crimping to make it fit into the plugs.
Hello Googliola. I believe you can run must of the gpio pins as pwn though not as true "hpwm" setting? Just a thought?I really do not know about the on off stuff. I always turn my printer physically on/off, and it sounds like you are more at home with the configuration than me ?I'm sure you can ask on smoothies google groups on how to use it. They might have an idea. Just don't start out with "hi, I'm using MKS Sbase board..." ?
Do you means Solid State Relay? You need to dial down frequence to 20mhz. Standard is 2000.temperature_control.module_name.pwm_frequency 20;http://smoothieware.org/temperaturecontrol
I'm using 24v, but if you use a 12v psu the hotend is 12v.If you want to use a 24v psu but 12v hotend for some reason, you can use some external mosfet board to accomplish this.
problem is that for most people it is much easier to setup using a graphical interface.If all else fails, go check out Astroprint. I vastly prefer that one over Octoprint as well, since it was made for normal people, and with focus on intuitive usage and not geekstuff over useability like Octoprint.
Depends on your setup I guess, but it does on mine yes.
Looks good! :)
I don't know fbujold. Been a LONG while since I made this one, and worked so far. Must be instructables.com making some changes... lets hope they sort it :)
Hello Kanataa.You are correct, I do have an Ultimaker where it homes to the bottom, meaning to MAX.The way to fault find is:1) Connect using Pronterface 2) Check endstop status by issuing M119. Correct firmware if necessary.3) Check your Z moves the desired direction when you hit the move buttons. + = bed moves away from nozzle.4) Adjust firmware if needed to correct direction of move.5) Be ready to turn off power and then hit Z-home - G28 Z06) If it moves the wrong way, check that Z-min is 0 and Z max is 200 (or what your max is)7) try again.I have written 2 Instructables about <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-Configurati... target="_blank">Motion Configuration</a> and <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endsto... tar...see more »Hello Kanataa.You are correct, I do have an Ultimaker where it homes to the bottom, meaning to MAX.The way to fault find is:1) Connect using Pronterface 2) Check endstop status by issuing M119. Correct firmware if necessary.3) Check your Z moves the desired direction when you hit the move buttons. + = bed moves away from nozzle.4) Adjust firmware if needed to correct direction of move.5) Be ready to turn off power and then hit Z-home - G28 Z06) If it moves the wrong way, check that Z-min is 0 and Z max is 200 (or what your max is)7) try again.I have written 2 Instructables about <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-Configurati... target="_blank">Motion Configuration</a> and <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endsto... target="_blank">Configuring endstops</a> which you might find helpful.You can ofcourse also write here :)
Thank you for your nice words.I'm sorry I really don't have any ideas other than Googling, and I think it's better you do your own googling :)If you have the option to hook up the pi to a monitor and keyboard it will make it easier for you?Cheers,Morten
I'd try to contact the seller. I am not MKS or even an affiliate. I just write Instructables for topics I find interesting :)
Ok. That might be nice for some people :)I havn't seen any officially supported firmwares on the smoothieboard platform. I'm just personally loath to get firmware with only partial support.I used Marlin for a long time and never was a fan. Just too messy, and the whole compile procedure alone was enough for me to dump it :)I make lots of changes all the time though, which most people don't do.I'm going to jump on the Duet Wifi soon. Just waiting to recieve the Duex5 expansion board to go with Diamond hotend 5way prototype <wink>
Hello Banman11.Thank you for your very usefull feedback. I have actually done pretty much the same thing on occasion as you just describe.. it's really a pain.Cheers
Hello Kanataa, and thanks :)I'll bet you need to turn op the vref on the TMC2100. How much is it at now?
Awesome info HaydnH.It can't be fixed by setting segment size to very small in firmware? (I havn't read up on it)
Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I've been rather busy with my new Extruder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914288 , so havn't had time to look it up myself.I must admit I'm totally at a loss when people say "pull-up" but I know you can shift a jumper to decide wheter the voltage on endstops are 3.3 or 5v
If it is S3D I think you should contact them. It is a paid commercial product so they might be able to help some.I would test using Cura or other slizer first though. Cura 2.3 have a lot of awesome changes from previous versions, so you might be surprised :)
I just use edge firmware from Smoothieware Github site.
Firstly: Thank you for interest and feedback. Always nice hearing from people using the instructables. :)Could you copy/paste your section with the temperature settings from your config file please?I would like to see the pin-assignments for the sensors.Which client program do you use for issuing Gcodes? I prefer Pronterface as it loads really fast, so nice for troubleshooting.
I'm just using the config I list through my instructables. I use Cura 2.3 and no custom settings really.
Shouldn't get too hot with fan on. I have mine under my cabinet case and it's just passively cooled with some air getting through 1cm gap under the casing.I have 0.85v on my XY, so yours shouldn't get too hot.. tried with different prints over 2 hours?
No. You can only use Smoothieware on it, but if it freezes over 1-2 hours and it's doing it for more than just 1 file, I bet it is due to overheating.Have you tried measuring heat off the drivers or around the board? What is your voltage on drivers?Maybe the controller is placed inside the printer and gets hot?
If my previous reply (from today/just now) doesn't pan out.. or maybe just start by doing it: contact MKS and/or the seller about the issue.. if it's hardware issue you want to let them know as soon as possible.
Great. Glad it worked out :) I just googled it some and can see various people have experienced the same. Some from bad SD cards instead though.
Don't worry about pronterface yet.Firstly please answer the first question as I can't track down faults with no information.Also please try the SD formatter I linked to. Windows and other OSs tends to mess up cardsWhich 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtRegarding pronterface:Don't bother trying to connect untill you have the right files on the SD card as you just can't.Remember to specify the right COM port and BAUD rate.Does the Sbase show up as a com port when you connect it, and have you installed the windows drivers?
I don't understand the difference between "FIRMWARE.CUR" and "firmware.cur" aside from you using capital letters?You want to use the firmware from Smoothieware and not from MKS:https://github.com/Smoothieware/SmoothiewareI use nightly build (edge) but you might want to use stable untill you know it works for you.http://triffid-hunter.no-ip.info/Smoothie.html
Try using https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ to format the card.Which 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtHope it helps
Sorry you had a bad experience. By now there are several differnet models of extenders.Always use a multiemter to measure before doing final connection.My instructables matches my setup and most of the users I've talked to.
I'm glad you found it usefull.Just remember my goal was to learn about 3D printers and figuring out what components were used and how to do it.It was just a bonus if it could print.After this cd/dvd build I reused the electronics and some parts and used it to build a larger more functional printer :)
Right below it I also write:You can use the edge firmware which is eseentially a realease candidate, which has more features, but also might contain some errors. This goes beyound this Instructables.I did a writeup of the product itself and since MKS refer to their own firmware, I do the same.
I have updated the firmware section to be more clear on usage of original firmware vs firmware from MKS.MKS firmware IS the original firmware, but an old version, so do use firmware from Smoothieware.
I only use the firmware from smoothieware.
There is no need to configure firmware for normal usage.What you do need to do is set the baud rate for your TFT to the same you run on your controller, or they can't communicate.Also set the type of printer you use. It is set as Cartesian as default.
How to Make a Dehumidifier (Thermoelectric Cooling)
You normally use D9 to cool the printed parts - what you call nozzle - you do not want to cool the actual nozzle :)D9 is standard fan for cooling the printed parts which corresponds to the fan you activate in Cura, or other slizer. Also this fan you control from your LCD if you use one such.I used the Fan Extender to make it possible to have my hotend heatsink fan to turn on and off as the hotend got hot and cold - I do not want this fan to just blow all the time due to noise.I used the other fan on the Fan Extender to cool my drivers.There is build in functions in the firmware to hotend fan and for the drivers.
It's just the best. I don't have a seperate area to solder, so often do it in the living room.. was ok years ago, but after having children this filter is literally a lifesaver :) Can't smell a thing.I mostly use the speed regulator to control noise, as I havn't added an/off botton.
Been using something like this for a couple of years after after I found a fume extactors was rather expensive, but really only consisted of a filter and a fane.I mounted mine on a small cardboard box, meaning I can tilt it as needed. I do not have the fancy usb thingie, but using a straight 12v input with potentiometer to adjust speed :)
I guess you know the board can handle 12-24v? It means it can output the same voltage as you provide as input.I do not know max current of any output. Talking 40x40 fans or similar, you do not have to worry about it though.You can ask the manufacturer if you really want to know :)https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3Dpriter-control-board-MKS-SBase-V1-0-32-s-Motherboard-compatible-Smoothieware-open-source-firmware-support/1047297_32384368763.html
Hello Martin.All outputs provide ample amperage to run several fans. Many in fact, but I have allready written an Instructable on the subject of multiple fans. https://www.instructables.com/id/Smoothieware-Switch-Module-for-Automatic-Fan-Contr/In fact it covers exactly what you ask for, as it configures automatic fan control of the E3D heatsink fan to turn the fan on and off at 50c of hotend.The nice thing about smoothieware is how you can simply just create all the fan-controls you want.. give it a name and choose the pin for it.Cheers.
3D Printing Class
I couldn't get his web interface to work either.I'd still suggest remapping e0 to e1 to check it actually works before you start trying to get both e0 and e1 to work at the same time.It should be a simple matter remapping pins for thermistors, but not something I've done myself.I use Thermocouples for my hotends.
I have only used it with a single extruder so far.. am in the process of printing extra extruders though, so am going to try it soon.I'd recommend just changing pins to use E1 instead of E0 to check if it is working.Regarding RPi. If you are using RPi B+ or better it can provide up to 2amp on 5v, but it requires you to have a sufficiently good PSU on the RPi.I don't understand the problem though, as you have to have 12/24 on to use it anyway? What am I missing? Why use RPi when you have webinterface build into it?
Checked to see if your PSU for the RPi is 2amp?I only use firmware from Smoothieware and always just put the newest Edge on them :)
When you say your hotend does not heat up, is it that you don't get a raised temperature from your thermistor, or have you measured on the actual hotend using your finger (low temperature), or other instrument to measure?Asking as maybe Thermistor is on a wrong pin? (I don't think it is from your description though)Try disconnect your heater cartridge and measure resistance through it. Maybe a wire has broken... try looking at the 2 metal-wires going into the heater cartridge itself.. they can break if unlucky.Heater Halted is build in safety.. Marlin expects the temperature to rise, but since it doesn't something went wrong, and system is halted.. it's very important feature since a defective Thermistor would just leave your hotend keep heating up otherwise!The shortening of thermistor...see more »When you say your hotend does not heat up, is it that you don't get a raised temperature from your thermistor, or have you measured on the actual hotend using your finger (low temperature), or other instrument to measure?Asking as maybe Thermistor is on a wrong pin? (I don't think it is from your description though)Try disconnect your heater cartridge and measure resistance through it. Maybe a wire has broken... try looking at the 2 metal-wires going into the heater cartridge itself.. they can break if unlucky.Heater Halted is build in safety.. Marlin expects the temperature to rise, but since it doesn't something went wrong, and system is halted.. it's very important feature since a defective Thermistor would just leave your hotend keep heating up otherwise!The shortening of thermistors is one of the major drawbacks of thermistors... also they easily break and they are not very accurate. (enough for pla/abs in most cases)If you find you like 3D printing and build a larger printer down the road, you should take a look at using the system E3D used for PT100 sensors and also Thermocouplers now. The hole is ø3 through the block and fastened by a small grub-screw.Drawback here is the expense.. also needs an amplifier regardless of type of sensor you choose (more money).Measureing voltage on the D10 and similar can be tricky, but maybe your Mosfet has blown? I have read instructions on how to test those, but I never tried it.
No.Why would you use Marlin anyway? There are some functions not implemented in Smoothieware yet, but the firmware system is just so much better in every way than Marlin :)
The 4 pins on Sbase is meant to be used to connect the external driver boards only.. I do not know if your drivers without potentiometers is going to get info on power settings from firmware.I think you should write to MKS ans ask them. Use their contact function through aliexpress and not their website.
If you google i'll bet you can find a wiki somehwere explaining it.However, it is controlled a lot by software really, and not so much by firmware.
I disassemlbed 30+ to make my instructable on 3d printer build on CD/DVD drives and I got around 3 to 1 on DC vs Stepper ... meaning more DC than steppers.
There are lots of ways to get feedback from DC and Stepper motors by now. Same principle as Servos... combine it with cheap DC and you have your answer :)
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