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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Awesome info HaydnH.It can't be fixed by setting segment size to very small in firmware? (I havn't read up on it)

    Awesome. Glad you found the problem. I've been rather busy with my new Extruder http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914288 , so havn't had time to look it up myself.I must admit I'm totally at a loss when people say "pull-up" but I know you can shift a jumper to decide wheter the voltage on endstops are 3.3 or 5v

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    If it is S3D I think you should contact them. It is a paid commercial product so they might be able to help some.I would test using Cura or other slizer first though. Cura 2.3 have a lot of awesome changes from previous versions, so you might be surprised :)

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I just use edge firmware from Smoothieware Github site.

    Firstly: Thank you for interest and feedback. Always nice hearing from people using the instructables. :)Could you copy/paste your section with the temperature settings from your config file please?I would like to see the pin-assignments for the sensors.Which client program do you use for issuing Gcodes? I prefer Pronterface as it loads really fast, so nice for troubleshooting.

    I'm just using the config I list through my instructables. I use Cura 2.3 and no custom settings really.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Shouldn't get too hot with fan on. I have mine under my cabinet case and it's just passively cooled with some air getting through 1cm gap under the casing.I have 0.85v on my XY, so yours shouldn't get too hot.. tried with different prints over 2 hours?

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    No. You can only use Smoothieware on it, but if it freezes over 1-2 hours and it's doing it for more than just 1 file, I bet it is due to overheating.Have you tried measuring heat off the drivers or around the board? What is your voltage on drivers?Maybe the controller is placed inside the printer and gets hot?

    If my previous reply (from today/just now) doesn't pan out.. or maybe just start by doing it: contact MKS and/or the seller about the issue.. if it's hardware issue you want to let them know as soon as possible.

    Great. Glad it worked out :) I just googled it some and can see various people have experienced the same. Some from bad SD cards instead though.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Don't worry about pronterface yet.Firstly please answer the first question as I can't track down faults with no information.Also please try the SD formatter I linked to. Windows and other OSs tends to mess up cardsWhich 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtRegarding pronterface:Don't bother trying to connect untill you have the right files on the SD card as you just can't.Remember to specify the right COM port and BAUD rate.Does the Sbase show up as a com port when you connect it, and have you installed the windows drivers?

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I don't understand the difference between "FIRMWARE.CUR" and "firmware.cur" aside from you using capital letters?You want to use the firmware from Smoothieware and not from MKS:https://github.com/Smoothieware/SmoothiewareI use nightly build (edge) but you might want to use stable untill you know it works for you.http://triffid-hunter.no-ip.info/Smoothie.html

    Try using https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ to format the card.Which 2 files do you put on the SD card? You need to put on:firmware.bin andconfig.txtAfter you power printer off and on (also remove usb cable) you should have:firmware.curconfig.txtHope it helps

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  • Configuring and using Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender

    Sorry you had a bad experience. By now there are several differnet models of extenders.Always use a multiemter to measure before doing final connection.My instructables matches my setup and most of the users I've talked to.

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  • Complete newbie step by step, 3D printer with all parts lists

    I'm glad you found it usefull.Just remember my goal was to learn about 3D printers and figuring out what components were used and how to do it.It was just a bonus if it could print.After this cd/dvd build I reused the electronics and some parts and used it to build a larger more functional printer :)

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Right below it I also write:You can use the edge firmware which is eseentially a realease candidate, which has more features, but also might contain some errors. This goes beyound this Instructables.I did a writeup of the product itself and since MKS refer to their own firmware, I do the same.

    I have updated the firmware section to be more clear on usage of original firmware vs firmware from MKS.MKS firmware IS the original firmware, but an old version, so do use firmware from Smoothieware.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I only use the firmware from smoothieware.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    There is no need to configure firmware for normal usage.What you do need to do is set the baud rate for your TFT to the same you run on your controller, or they can't communicate.Also set the type of printer you use. It is set as Cartesian as default.

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  • Configuring and using Reprap Ramps1.4 RRD Fan Extender

    You normally use D9 to cool the printed parts - what you call nozzle - you do not want to cool the actual nozzle :)D9 is standard fan for cooling the printed parts which corresponds to the fan you activate in Cura, or other slizer. Also this fan you control from your LCD if you use one such.I used the Fan Extender to make it possible to have my hotend heatsink fan to turn on and off as the hotend got hot and cold - I do not want this fan to just blow all the time due to noise.I used the other fan on the Fan Extender to cool my drivers.There is build in functions in the firmware to hotend fan and for the drivers.

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  • Solder Fume Extractor With Activated Carbon Filter

    It's just the best. I don't have a seperate area to solder, so often do it in the living room.. was ok years ago, but after having children this filter is literally a lifesaver :) Can't smell a thing.I mostly use the speed regulator to control noise, as I havn't added an/off botton.

    Been using something like this for a couple of years after after I found a fume extactors was rather expensive, but really only consisted of a filter and a fane.I mounted mine on a small cardboard box, meaning I can tilt it as needed. I do not have the fancy usb thingie, but using a straight 12v input with potentiometer to adjust speed :)

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  • Smoothieware Switch module for automatic fan control

    I guess you know the board can handle 12-24v? It means it can output the same voltage as you provide as input.I do not know max current of any output. Talking 40x40 fans or similar, you do not have to worry about it though.You can ask the manufacturer if you really want to know :)https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/3Dpriter-control-board-MKS-SBase-V1-0-32-s-Motherboard-compatible-Smoothieware-open-source-firmware-support/1047297_32384368763.html

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Hello Martin.All outputs provide ample amperage to run several fans. Many in fact, but I have allready written an Instructable on the subject of multiple fans. http://www.instructables.com/id/Smoothieware-Switch-Module-for-Automatic-Fan-Contr/In fact it covers exactly what you ask for, as it configures automatic fan control of the E3D heatsink fan to turn the fan on and off at 50c of hotend.The nice thing about smoothieware is how you can simply just create all the fan-controls you want.. give it a name and choose the pin for it.Cheers.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I couldn't get his web interface to work either.I'd still suggest remapping e0 to e1 to check it actually works before you start trying to get both e0 and e1 to work at the same time.It should be a simple matter remapping pins for thermistors, but not something I've done myself.I use Thermocouples for my hotends.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I have only used it with a single extruder so far.. am in the process of printing extra extruders though, so am going to try it soon.I'd recommend just changing pins to use E1 instead of E0 to check if it is working.Regarding RPi. If you are using RPi B+ or better it can provide up to 2amp on 5v, but it requires you to have a sufficiently good PSU on the RPi.I don't understand the problem though, as you have to have 12/24 on to use it anyway? What am I missing? Why use RPi when you have webinterface build into it?

    Checked to see if your PSU for the RPi is 2amp?I only use firmware from Smoothieware and always just put the newest Edge on them :)

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  • Complete newbie step by step, 3D printer with all parts lists

    When you say your hotend does not heat up, is it that you don't get a raised temperature from your thermistor, or have you measured on the actual hotend using your finger (low temperature), or other instrument to measure?Asking as maybe Thermistor is on a wrong pin? (I don't think it is from your description though)Try disconnect your heater cartridge and measure resistance through it. Maybe a wire has broken... try looking at the 2 metal-wires going into the heater cartridge itself.. they can break if unlucky.Heater Halted is build in safety.. Marlin expects the temperature to rise, but since it doesn't something went wrong, and system is halted.. it's very important feature since a defective Thermistor would just leave your hotend keep heating up otherwise!The shortening of thermistor...see more »When you say your hotend does not heat up, is it that you don't get a raised temperature from your thermistor, or have you measured on the actual hotend using your finger (low temperature), or other instrument to measure?Asking as maybe Thermistor is on a wrong pin? (I don't think it is from your description though)Try disconnect your heater cartridge and measure resistance through it. Maybe a wire has broken... try looking at the 2 metal-wires going into the heater cartridge itself.. they can break if unlucky.Heater Halted is build in safety.. Marlin expects the temperature to rise, but since it doesn't something went wrong, and system is halted.. it's very important feature since a defective Thermistor would just leave your hotend keep heating up otherwise!The shortening of thermistors is one of the major drawbacks of thermistors... also they easily break and they are not very accurate. (enough for pla/abs in most cases)If you find you like 3D printing and build a larger printer down the road, you should take a look at using the system E3D used for PT100 sensors and also Thermocouplers now. The hole is ø3 through the block and fastened by a small grub-screw.Drawback here is the expense.. also needs an amplifier regardless of type of sensor you choose (more money).Measureing voltage on the D10 and similar can be tricky, but maybe your Mosfet has blown? I have read instructions on how to test those, but I never tried it.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    No.Why would you use Marlin anyway? There are some functions not implemented in Smoothieware yet, but the firmware system is just so much better in every way than Marlin :)

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  • Setup External Driver on Smoothieware Sbase 1.2 Controller using E1 pins!

    The 4 pins on Sbase is meant to be used to connect the external driver boards only.. I do not know if your drivers without potentiometers is going to get info on power settings from firmware.I think you should write to MKS ans ask them. Use their contact function through aliexpress and not their website.

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  • Disassembling a CD/DVD reader and reusing its parts

    Just as an info, many drives use standard DC motors (2 wires) instead of Stepper motors (4 wires).I got DC motors from all kinds of drives and also stepper motors... no pattern to it really.

    If you google i'll bet you can find a wiki somehwere explaining it.However, it is controlled a lot by software really, and not so much by firmware.

    I disassemlbed 30+ to make my instructable on 3d printer build on CD/DVD drives and I got around 3 to 1 on DC vs Stepper ... meaning more DC than steppers.

    There are lots of ways to get feedback from DC and Stepper motors by now. Same principle as Servos... combine it with cheap DC and you have your answer :)

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  • Installing and Configuring DRV8825 Stepper Drivers

    When something isn't documented it is hard to present it as a fact unless I have tried it myself.That aside, you really just proved my case with your "Another Source"... he explains just the behaviour I said they had, and the opposite of what you said.. he said <strong>Counter Clockwise increase voltage. Clockwise decrease voltage</strong>This really just corrobate what I wrote.I have not read the Arduino forum (not that part at least), but I emailed Pololu after my last response to clarify the matter and I got the following response:"Thank you for your interest in our stepper motordrivers. The current limit on all of ourstepper motor drivers increases as the potentiometer is turned clock-wise..."I have edited my Instructable to clarify how the original ...see more »When something isn't documented it is hard to present it as a fact unless I have tried it myself.That aside, you really just proved my case with your "Another Source"... he explains just the behaviour I said they had, and the opposite of what you said.. he said <strong>Counter Clockwise increase voltage. Clockwise decrease voltage</strong>This really just corrobate what I wrote.I have not read the Arduino forum (not that part at least), but I emailed Pololu after my last response to clarify the matter and I got the following response:"Thank you for your interest in our stepper motordrivers. The current limit on all of ourstepper motor drivers increases as the potentiometer is turned clock-wise..."I have edited my Instructable to clarify how the original and clones works.

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  • Installing and Configuring DRV8825 Stepper Drivers

    Ok.I've never seen or heard of an 8825 working as you explained.Do you have a link explaining/showing this? I'm not saying you are wrong, I'd just like documentation :)I just looked it up at pololu.com but couldn't see any mention of it.https://www.pololu.com/product/2133

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  • Pure White Background Photography Using Smartphone

    Awesome work. I love how you not only say what to do, but HOW to do it. Not many people bother to (or is even capable of) describe the steps in a meaningfull way.Great job!

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  • Installing and Configuring DRV8825 Stepper Drivers

    Thank you for your feedback.Glad you found it usefull. My small motors doesn't like 8825 and is actually rather quiet using 4988 while very noisy with 8825.TMC2100 is my favorite of the three though! :)

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  • Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section homing

    Can only suggest turning it lower. If it has produced smoke it might be too late. Steppers motors should be kept below 40c... over 80c and they take permanent damage very fast.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Why should it be bad for extruder motor?You configure steps in firmware for each motor depedning on multistepping, motor specifications etc, so yea, you just set up in firmware. I wouldn't call it compensation though, but just normal configuration :)I even use a 0,9degree motor for my extruder, so it has 400 steps pr round, where the more common motors does 1,8degree pr step, and ths 200 steps pr round, so I have to multiply by 2 on account of that as well.

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  • Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section homing

    Hello Martin. You might want to take a look at the instructables I wrote:Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section hominghttp://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endstops-on-Ramps-14-with-Marlin-firmw/What you need to do is use the M119 command to see which, if any, endstops are triggered. You simply "invert" the triggered endstops in firmware.It is listed in Step 3 in the instructables :)If you want to test your extruder motor, you also need to allow cold extrusions by issuing M302http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudesOnce you have sorted the endstops, you can figure out wheter you need to invert the direction of your motors.Motion Configuration on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware @section machinehttp://www.instructables.com/id/Motion...see more »Hello Martin. You might want to take a look at the instructables I wrote:Configuring Endstops on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware - @section hominghttp://www.instructables.com/id/Configuring-Endstops-on-Ramps-14-with-Marlin-firmw/What you need to do is use the M119 command to see which, if any, endstops are triggered. You simply "invert" the triggered endstops in firmware.It is listed in Step 3 in the instructables :)If you want to test your extruder motor, you also need to allow cold extrusions by issuing M302http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M302:_Allow_cold_extrudesOnce you have sorted the endstops, you can figure out wheter you need to invert the direction of your motors.Motion Configuration on Ramps 1.4 with Marlin firmware @section machinehttp://www.instructables.com/id/Motion-Configuration-on-Ramps-14-with-Marlin-firmw/Regards,MortenDenmark

    It is not mandatory to have endstops, but you there is no option to just disable them.Instead you invert them, so they are listed as not triggered.You then define software endstops and min/max for your axes.When starting your printer it will then assume it is positioned at XYZ 0,0,0 and will go no further than your defined MAX in each direction.Just remember to remove the G28 command from Cura's start-gcode, which it use as default to home endstops to it hits limit switches.

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