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55Instructables1,795,765Views3,689CommentsEuropeJoined February 14th, 2009
I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I like. Other than my hobbies that involves grassroots medicine in S.E.&P Asia. I have built low income cow dung bio-reactors, solar lamps and family fish ponds as well as houses out of every kind of thinkable material. Instructables is an endless source of inspiration for my projects.

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer4 hours ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I never used Blynk so i do not know what kind of info it sends to the ESP8266, but if it is a number you have to use that number as your dimming variable. The basic workings of the dimmer program is:Establish zero crosswait a certain amount of timeignite the TRIAC.The time you wait determines the dimming level: the longer you wait, the less intense the lamp will burn.So can basically use program number 1, or the one with the timer and then use the info from Blynk as your dimming level.in th program that is the integer ' dimtime'. to make it have 128 steps, i use the variable 'dimming' I presume the slider from Blynk goes from 0-100, so you best multiply that with 100 to get your 100 steps (from 0-10.000usec).The way this works is all explained in the text

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer12 hours ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I see no reason why it would not work on an E SP.With all due respect, you more or less demand that I make a connection diagram and write full code to 'make it work' with a service (Blynk) that I do not even use, for your final project and to hurry with it?Thats not how it works but I can give you some pointers.You say you used my first program but it doesnt work from Blynk.That is not surprising as that program doesnt have any webconnectivity.So you would have to set that up and from then on the only thing you need to do is to select an interrupt pin on your nodemcu for the zerocrossing signal and another pin for the output.Practically any pin of the nodeMCU (with exception of pin 16) can be used as an external interrupt and here you will find a description of how to do that: https:/...

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    I see no reason why it would not work on an E SP.With all due respect, you more or less demand that I make a connection diagram and write full code to 'make it work' with a service (Blynk) that I do not even use, for your final project and to hurry with it?Thats not how it works but I can give you some pointers.You say you used my first program but it doesnt work from Blynk.That is not surprising as that program doesnt have any webconnectivity.So you would have to set that up and from then on the only thing you need to do is to select an interrupt pin on your nodemcu for the zerocrossing signal and another pin for the output.Practically any pin of the nodeMCU (with exception of pin 16) can be used as an external interrupt and here you will find a description of how to do that: https://techtutorialsx.com/2016/12/11/esp8266-exte...remember to keep interrupt variables that you would use outside the interrupt volatile.Should you have any further questions I' d be happy to answer thos

    one additional remark, sometimes with the ESP8266 it works better to keep the interrupt routine in memory all the time, like this:void ICACHE_RAM_ATTR zerodtectISR() { // ISR code}

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  • Python and Raspberry Pi Temperature Sensor

    Nice projectOne thing with the DS18B20 and the raspberry still eludes me, but that is not your fault. Why is it necessary that the values be written to a file that then needs to be parsed. In contrast, an Arduino can just read the values directly.Now people will say: that is "because the Arduino is faster". Well yes, no doubt, but the raspberry CAN read the DS18B20 and if it can put the results in a file, why cant it assign the value directly to a variable. at least it would prevent SD card wear.Anyway, that is just an axe I have to grind and obviously it is not your doing :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on IOT_123's instructable IOT123 - HV ATTINY85 Fuse Resetter1 day ago
    IOT123 - HV ATTINY85 Fuse Resetter

    Well done. The one in my blog that you refer to is mainly meant for those who incidentally need to unbrick an attiny13/25/45/85 or reset P1.If one plans to do it on a regular base, a build with a dedicated Arduino such as in your project might be a more suitable option

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  • Working With the Funduino W5100 Ethernet Module.

    I am happy I could be of help. Quite an undertaking you plan. Are you sure about the W5100? did you consider the W5500? that last one is a bit more modern

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer12 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    no sure what library you are referring to.perhaps you were using the millis() timer wrong. Can either reset the assigned variable when it reaches 1000 or check if the modulo 1000 equals 0,but for now I would just leave it as is

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  • diy_bloke commented on AntMan232's instructable Raspberry Pi I2C (Python)13 days ago
    Raspberry Pi I2C (Python)

    the i2cdetect -y 0 command didn't do it for me.I2c-detect -y 1 however did

    I see you beat me to it with 4 years ;-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer13 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    count should be accurate but I think you need to declare count as a volatile variable.The volatile variable directs the compiler to load the variable from RAM and not from a storage register, which is a temporary memory location where program variables are stored and manipulated. Under certain conditions, the value for a variable stored in registers can be inaccurate.A variable should be declared volatile whenever its value can be changed by something beyond the control of the code section in which it appears, such as a concurrently executing thread. In the Arduino, the only place that this is likely to occur is in sections of code associated with interrupts, called an interrupt service routine.So declare it as:volatile int count=0;as you are not counting that far, I presume you even co...

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    count should be accurate but I think you need to declare count as a volatile variable.The volatile variable directs the compiler to load the variable from RAM and not from a storage register, which is a temporary memory location where program variables are stored and manipulated. Under certain conditions, the value for a variable stored in registers can be inaccurate.A variable should be declared volatile whenever its value can be changed by something beyond the control of the code section in which it appears, such as a concurrently executing thread. In the Arduino, the only place that this is likely to occur is in sections of code associated with interrupts, called an interrupt service routine.So declare it as:volatile int count=0;as you are not counting that far, I presume you even could use byte instead of int

    Let me two more thing on top of my earlier advise to use the 'volatile' keyword.1-the use of 'delay' is always a bit tricky, especially if you use interrupts as well.I understand why you use delay(1000), so your screen will not be swamped with output, but consider the use of the millis() statement: use that in a counter that you let count to 1000.2-i am not sure what routine is behind 'interrupt()' and 'nointerrupt' but the shortest way to disable interrupts seems to be using the ATOMIC_BLOCK macro: https://www.arduino.cc/reference/en/language/varia...I however do not have experience with that myself

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Connect to Carriot With ESP826613 days ago
    Connect to Carriot With ESP8266

    It is a bit unclear to me what you are asking. You want to use an Arduino UNO and then use an ESP8266 to connect the UNO to Carriot?That is quite a different project, but in short you need to use the ESP8266 to make the connection to the internet and to Carriot and then get the data from your uno vis the RxTx UART or via I2C.Forgive me for asking why you would want to do that, it seems a very complicated way. The ESP8266 is much more powerfull than the UNO and if you e.g. are just using the Arduino to get more pins, then there are easier ways to do that

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino13 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    I am a bit puzzled now whether you want 6 or 2 channels, but in fact it is rather simpleas the only thing you need to repeat is the FET, the voltage divider and the optocoupler with series resistor

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer14 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I am happy you got it working.as in the numbers in my program represent the delay time, that means that 128 is a full cycl delay ergo lamp off and 0 is no delay ergo lamp full on, if you want to be at 75% dimming you need to use 0.25*128

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer15 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Wel theer could be several issues.Let' s first try and pinpoint the problem. So for the moment forget the Arduino and the sync pulses: If you just put 5Volt on the, entrance (so where in yr circuit it says "Arduino pin 3" , what happens then?

    I replied on your similar question in the 'question section', but I will repeat it here: There could be several issues. Let's first try and pinpoint the problem. So for the moment forget the Arduino and the sync pulses: If you just put 5Volt on the, entrance (so where in yr circuit it says "Arduino pin 3" , what happens then?

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  • ☠WEEDINATOR☠  Part 3: Chassis Build

    I like your weedinator, it makes just as much noise as I do when I get out of bed in the morning, but it still does it faster :-)All jokes aside, great work

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  • ☠WEEDINATOR☠  Part 1: Drive Mechanism

    there are projects and then there are PROJECTS.You have been busy!!!

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  • Raspberry PI With DS18b20 Web Server PHP - Remote Temperature Measurement

    interesting. Though the DS18B20 and the DHTxx both are digital sensors sadly the ds18b20 seems a lot more complicated to read than the DHTxx. The later is just a few lines of calling the library ;-)

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  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    I understood in the mean time it was a matter of an 8 bit library right?

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer25 days ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Hmm that sounds as if perhaps your MOC is broken or otherwise doesn't get enough voltage to open.Questions: what processor do you use?If you used the LED in series with the resistor in the input circuit.. what color LED did you use?Could you try just putting 5 Volt across the Trigger input and see if that will switch on your lamp?and as always.... be careful when you are using 220 Volt

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino25 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Ah yes I see your point. Apologies for not explaining further. As there is a load on the High Volt line (the lamp) I did not want to run the risc of fluctuations on the low voltage that I use to trigger the FET.It might be superfluous, but in order for the FET to not linger in resistive state and overheat, I just wanted to make sure to have a reliable powersource.Without the diode, the 100 uF capacitor would be trying to smooth the lamp voltage. Now it is only smoothing the gate trigger voltage

    Sorry for not noticing your request sooner. Ofcourse I do not know what changes Alexander made but I presume he put the optocoupler between the 100k resistor and the gate

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  • diy_bloke commented on RS3655's instructable Eve, the Arduino Chatter Bot27 days ago
    Eve, the Arduino Chatter Bot

    That is definitely ingenious.Also thanks for pointing out the WTV020SD16p board. That might come in handy for some other projects

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  • diy_bloke commented on witnessmenow's instructable DIY Attiny Programming Shield27 days ago
    DIY Attiny Programming Shield

    Nicely done. The Attiny is a great little processor and I have used it a lot. Just too bad that the DIL chip is too expensive. For a few dimes more one has an Arduino pro-mini.Nevertheless, I have made many projects with it and a programmer board as you presented really beats having to stick pins in a breadboard again and again and again

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino27 days ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    To provide DC for the electronics

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna27 days ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    Ah yes, I also have that pdf and saw some time ago that it was taken down. Very valuable piece of work

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  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    ok, I checked your numbers and 201 is indeed 2761 with the high byte removed, so somewhere you defined a byte where it should be an integer

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino4 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Well, basically that is a different circuit and I have described it earlier in the comments: what you need to do is to put the optocoupler in series with the 100k resistor; so one end to the 100k resistor and the other end to the gate

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  • Receiving and Sending Data Between Attiny85 (Arduino IDE 1.06) UPDATED Nov 2015

    Frankly, I am not sure. I haven' t used the Manchester library for a long time as I went to use MQTT, but the code as I published worked for me. I can' t really see system in the changes you mention (256->0; 2761->201), but somehow it seems that what is supposed to be an integer, has become a byte. Have you maybe defined something as a byte that should be an integer?

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  • diy_bloke commented on yoh-there's instructable MQTT and Wifi Powered Mailbox Flag5 weeks ago
    MQTT and Wifi Powered Mailbox Flag

    I came upon an idea somewhere (but forgot where), that might cut the poweruse even more: even in deep sleep the RTC memory is powered up, however if you disable the chip by pulling the chip_enable low, all functions, even the RTC is disabled.So you could just forget about deepsleep and just work with the ChipEnable.Ofcourse there are some hurdles to be taken, you would need to connect the chip enable to ground via your switch and say a 15k resistor, I reckon that is ground enough. You would need to pull it up via a big resistor, say a 4M7.As you need to have the ESP8266 still working after the mailbox closes, here is what you do:Mailbox opens, Chip becomes enabled through the 4M7. the first instruction you give on powerup is to write an I/O pin HIGH. That I/O pin should be connected to ...

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    I came upon an idea somewhere (but forgot where), that might cut the poweruse even more: even in deep sleep the RTC memory is powered up, however if you disable the chip by pulling the chip_enable low, all functions, even the RTC is disabled.So you could just forget about deepsleep and just work with the ChipEnable.Ofcourse there are some hurdles to be taken, you would need to connect the chip enable to ground via your switch and say a 15k resistor, I reckon that is ground enough. You would need to pull it up via a big resistor, say a 4M7.As you need to have the ESP8266 still working after the mailbox closes, here is what you do:Mailbox opens, Chip becomes enabled through the 4M7. the first instruction you give on powerup is to write an I/O pin HIGH. That I/O pin should be connected to your chip enable as well via a diode.Chip starts up -in the mean time the mailbox might be closed again, but that doesn't bother the Chip_enable that is now supplied with a HIGH via the diode.Program does its thing and once ready, the final instruction is to set your I/O pin LOW -> chip becomes disabled.I didn't do any calculations, not sure if the added current through a 4m7 (0.64 uA) would annihilate the savings by disabling the chip, but I think deep sleep uses some 10uA while if you turn the chip OFF, it uses some 3-4uA.

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  • diy_bloke commented on AdrieSentosa's instructable Arduino Weather Station (AWS)5 weeks ago
    Arduino Weather Station (AWS)

    I do not have a specific schema or notes but you can have a look how I did it here: https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-for-Green...

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  • The Arduino and Daylight Saving Time (Europe)

    yes that is indeed true. Realized that only later. Thanks for mentioning it

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  • diy_bloke commented on AdrieSentosa's instructable Arduino Weather Station (AWS)6 weeks ago
    Arduino Weather Station (AWS)

    add an I2C LCD to I2C pins, include the proper library, create lcd object and use 'lcd.print'

    change DHTTYPE from DHT11 into DHT22

    attach PIR sensor to free digital pin and read the status. Attach a bluetooth module to the Serial port and use a bluetoot terminal app on your phone to read the data.There already is a DHT11 sensor

    There is a pressure sensor in the circuit: the BMP180.Judging from the program the output is sent to the console

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  • Propagator Thermostat Using ESP8266/NodeMCU and Blynk

    Great work!I have been making propagators with a thermostat and an incandescent lamp, simply because I could not find one with integrated heating, but a lamp has several drawbacks.Though I am sure all basic thermostat designs will work, your design is a feast for the eye.Was just wondering if you get any rot in the baseplate where the DS18B20 are situated. After all, 'waterproof' on wood has its limitations. If it rots perhaps a block of HDPE (from milkjugs) would be a suggestion. Also was wondering if you are using both of the DS18B20 readings in any way, looks like you are only using the soil temperature to regulate on

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  • diy_bloke commented on Studvio's instructable Greenhouse / Enclosure Automatic Heating6 weeks ago
    Greenhouse / Enclosure Automatic Heating

    fully agree. I started out with that... but when it got very cold it just couldnt keep up. The electric heater I had was just too powerful, but the föhn is a good idea. Will try that

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  • Arduino Home Irrigation System With a 7 Segment Display

    indeed, but on the other hand... what you now have works :-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on Studvio's instructable Greenhouse / Enclosure Automatic Heating6 weeks ago
    Greenhouse / Enclosure Automatic Heating

    Your DHT link is not working.

    Interesting. I have a greenhouse made from enforced polystyrene (the kind used as isolation in construction), but I also have that exact same contraption as you have, Have ben using it outside, but frankly it is not very handy there, so maybe I bring it in and use it as additional greenhouse. Have been using a small electric fan heater, but also a 12Volt ceramic heater. But a blowdryer is actually a good suggestion as well.

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  • Arduino Home Irrigation System With a 7 Segment Display

    oh indeed no problem using am ULN and indeed they are cheap and dont take much space.Ofcourse I am not sure whether your relayboard is exactly the same as in your drawing, but that one seems like the fully opto-isolated one. Anyway, doesnt matter, you got rid of fried chips and that's always a plus

    Allow me one other technical remark and pls dont take it wrong as I really like your design and project:The ULN chip is a great choice for driving relays, but if you use a relay board as you have pictured, it is a bit of overkill, as the only thing it is driving then is the optocoupler on that relay board. The ULN is perfectly capable of directly driving a relay.Nothing wrong with it, works great and even inverts the signal to the board (the one pictured inverts the signal back to normal).The board pictured can be triggered directly from the Arduino (but you need a LOW to activate the relay).But let me be clear, great project

    Very nice. Home irrigation systems seem to be a favourite build for microprocessors and I built a couple myself, always interested to see how others do it.I never used one of those fancy shiny moisture sensors, as they degrade pretty fast, but you have been smart to feed them from a digital pin that can be switched off and on :-)Still a remark though: as you use the analog output from the module, in fact the entire module becomes superfluous. The analog pin of the module is directly linked to the actual sensor and the modules only function then is to supply a pull up resistor. Could just do away with the module and directly attach the sensor itself to the Analog pin

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  • diy_bloke commented on joebobs0n's instructable Atmega328p Companion6 weeks ago
    Atmega328p Companion

    Your boards look great, but forgive me for being confused for what you are actually making. Are the "Atmega companion" and the 'Bootloader module' 2 different things? Or did you just show two versions (PCB and Veroboard) of the same?Am I correct to understand what you built is in fact a 'bare bones arduino'? or am I totally missing the point .?Regardless though, great soldering work and nicely done PCB

    oh dont worry, I am well aware of what the Arduino is capable off, having posted maybe some 50 instructables that one way or another have an Atmega328/arduino involved and having build various 'arduino like' boards myself. I just wasnt exactly sure if your project was meant to be anything else than a DIY "arduino".As a learning project very worthwhile, but I am sure that with PCB included it cant compete pricewise with say a UNO or pro Mini at the chinese webshops. But your PCB looks great

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino7 weeks ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Thank you for your kind words.the STP10NK60 can deliver 10 amp so with 220Volt, the <3 amp for a 600 Watt lamp is OK.As far as the heat goes, yes I would advise a heatsink.The heat developed in the STP10NK in optimal conditions at 10 amp is 7.5 Watt which would be OK, but the STP ofcourse is not always under perfect conditions, for instance when it is switching on or off, the dissipation briefly can go up. To minimize that, I designed the circuit to switch as fast as possible as it is during the switching the Rds(on) can increase and thus the dissipation will increase.That means also that at low settings (frequent Switching) the dissipation at the one hand will go up (coz of the switching), but on the other hand will go down (coz it is OFF most of the time)Not sure why you speci...

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    Thank you for your kind words.the STP10NK60 can deliver 10 amp so with 220Volt, the <3 amp for a 600 Watt lamp is OK.As far as the heat goes, yes I would advise a heatsink.The heat developed in the STP10NK in optimal conditions at 10 amp is 7.5 Watt which would be OK, but the STP ofcourse is not always under perfect conditions, for instance when it is switching on or off, the dissipation briefly can go up. To minimize that, I designed the circuit to switch as fast as possible as it is during the switching the Rds(on) can increase and thus the dissipation will increase.That means also that at low settings (frequent Switching) the dissipation at the one hand will go up (coz of the switching), but on the other hand will go down (coz it is OFF most of the time)Not sure why you specifically ask about loads above 150 Watt.

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  • A Simple MQTT Pub/Sub Node With Arduino UNO and W5100 Ethernetshield

    I dont think you need 10 lines of code for each topic. I presume you have added these 10 relays all the the arduino?The only thing you would need to do for each relay is-read state of relay-publish the stateThat is two lines for each, or maybe I totally misunderstand you

    Thanks for expanding, although I still do not get why you would need 10 lines of code for each relay just to read the state, but you got it working and that is what counts.You CAN use variables for the topic though.You would do that as follows:#define Idchar buff_topic[15]; sprintf(buff_topic, "home/relay%02d", Id);client.publish(buff_topic, "message");If you want to send variables often, it might be better to use the pubsubclient lib from Ian tester (Imroy) as that allows simple String(variable) statements to be sent. Surely for the message and I presume also for the topic

    Further to the reply I just gave, you also may want to check another text I wrote: https://arduinodiy.wordpress.com/2017/11/24/mqtt-f...look for the headings of sending variables in message and topic

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Looks great. Not really a Thyristor but a Triac :-)But yes with very small loads, Triacs have a problem sometimes to stay open.I actually added a code for openhab recently but that was for MQTT. RF868Mhz is definitely a good option tooI probably would not build this circuit again :-) as there now is a module available on Aliexpress, that is only slightly more expensive than if you build it from scratch :-)

    I think I understand you, you want the resistors to get less hot.Well you cannot really influence the power dissipation, but you could use say 1 Watt resistors.If you increase the value of the resistors they will get less hot, but the zerocrossing pulse may get wider

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  • Sound Pressure Sensor for Arduino Based on ZX-sound Board

    Indeed, for some reason dropbox at one time either emptied or otherwise lost my files and I am afraid I didnt really keep a back up. But it is a real simple circuit, easy to setup in Fritzing in a few minutes.I was quite happy with the quality of this board, but various asian webshops now also sell cheap (and decent) sound modules. So you may wantto rethink if you really want to do a self build on this ;-)

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    My circuit does not have a D6. I admit due to automatic numbering the components did get a different number sometimes, but there is no D6.Are you sure you mean my circuit? Or are you talking about the Giesberts circuit that I described the drawbacks of?

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  • diy_bloke commented on androkavo's instructable SMD - Hand Soldering2 months ago
    SMD - Hand Soldering

    or just a soldering iron to keep it all 'by hand'

    Tnx. Wasnt too happy with the flux I had...I use solderpaste instead, as that will keep it in place as well. Halogenlamp on it and presto.

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Apologies for late reply... some health issues.No, the snubber wont make it work. A snubber circuit is to eliminate voltage peaks on an AC line.The only way to make a motor work on this is if you have a DC motor. Most motors for grid voltage however are AC motors

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer2 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    I am not sure if I fully understand what you want. Is it just a regular TRIAC switch you need?. Are you sure it is a triac you need? if it is just low voltage DC it seems a thyristor would be better, or maybe a FET or a relay

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  • How to Make a 74HC595 Shift Resistor Circuit

    Thank you. Happy to be of service

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna2 months ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    I mentioned that as it was in the original (but difficult to find) article.nevertheless, I used justthe wire available to me and had great results

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    Thanks. No, I was actually quite clear in the text, this is not suitable for inductive loads as it is a DC voltage

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  • diy_bloke commented on BradleyLangguth's instructable Automatische Nootjes Dispenser2 months ago
    Automatische Nootjes Dispenser

    Lekker, nootjes!!

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  • diy_bloke commented on androkavo's instructable SMD - Hand Soldering2 months ago
    SMD - Hand Soldering

    Well done. The smallest smd I think I did was 0603 and yes, fixing it in the right position is half the work

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  • 3 Channel Dimmer/fader for Arduino or Other Microcontroller

    kumaran, maybe you misunderstand the concept of instructables.I publish things I make and am more than willing to answer any questions.However, I am not a free coder for your specific wishes to make what in fact is a different projectI am sure you are able to do it yourself. Should you want me to do it I will need to charge you for my time.I will give u a few pointers though:set up a timer that interrupts say every 10usecCheck the dim values of your 4 channels against the accumulated timer interrupts and if match, ignite the triac.set the dim values with yr up and down buttons

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino2 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    what sort of capacitive load are you thinking of?no not a trailing edge dimmer. It is pwm

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable 433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna2 months ago
    433 MHz Coil Loaded Antenna

    very good. thank you for posting

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  • How to Use MQ7 Gas Sensors  Whith Arduino+Android App

    if you use the same code, it will still be bluetooth, not wifi. But app inventor has a wifi module too https://puravidaapps.com/wifi.php

    ofcourse you can. Can add i2C lcd to arduino and send everything you want to that LCD

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer3 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    by the way, i see the aliexpress store copied part of my text on pulse skip modulation :-)

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  • Make Your Own PCBs With JLCPCB

    can you give an indication of the shipping cost?

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  • diy_bloke commented on GreatScottLab's instructable Make Your Own ESC3 months ago
    Make Your Own ESC

    Followed this on youtube. Great work, learned a lot

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  • diy_bloke commented on GreatScottLab's instructable DIY Arduino Soldering Station3 months ago
    DIY Arduino Soldering Station

    if DC, use PWM

    yes, you can, but as that is 12V DC i would use PWM instead of AC phase modulation

    you are fully correct. that is how my HAKKO 936 does it

    yes can be used with any tip that has a thermocouple.Having said that... if you still need to build it, consider using dc with pwm

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  • diy_bloke commented on Luk---'s instructable Air Purifier3 months ago
    Air Purifier

    I understand it is being fed from the mains grid. Thus cannot be fed bij PWM.Tou could use a TRIAC to control it by phasecutting. That will most likely work, though TRIACs are not specifically suited to regulate inductive loads

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Altoid Arduino3 months ago
    Altoid Arduino

    I didnt find the original file, but I did find a new set-up that isnt fully finished yet. But I am happy to send you that if you care to finish it

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    apologies for my late reply. I have been ill.the fact is that the load is fed with pwm DC. transformers cannot take that very well. Nobody is gonna die but DC may magnetize the core

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Altoid Arduino3 months ago
    Altoid Arduino

    I apologize for late reply, had some health issues. It seems that probably deue to me ignoring dropboxmessages for a while my dropbox account was 'purged'. Still trying to look for the origibal file. Thank you for yr kind words

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer3 months ago
    Arduino Controlled Light Dimmer

    Pepijn, Input from everyone welcome ofcourse, In the instructable there is to begin with a link to a 3 channel dimmer.With regard to mqtt from openhab that is possible.The only thing you need is to add the pubsubclient and ethernet and subsequently send the dim value as a number via MQTT

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Altoid Arduino3 months ago
    Altoid Arduino

    It has been quite a while I used dropbox. Maybe my account was closed. I will see if I have it somewhere else

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino3 months ago
    AC PWM Dimmer for Arduino

    you could put the optocoupler in series with the 100k resistor.the design i made was mainly aimed at quick switching, thus creating minimal heat

    That would not be really necessary

    yes, that is exactly the purpose

    wait wait wait. NOT a transformor, absolutely not. It is for lamps

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  • diy_bloke commented on tybsmr12's instructable How to Make Brooder for Chicks3 months ago
    How to Make Brooder for Chicks

    That Thermostat you are using is indeed pretty nifty.I never thought of a round box, always just had them in a cardboard box but i only had a few chicks at one time

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  • diy_bloke commented on diy_bloke's instructable Add I2C EEPROM to Arduino3 months ago
    Add I2C EEPROM to Arduino

    ah yes, obviously a mistake. thank you

    That is possible, but you need a program that reads that data and then stores it in EEPROM. If you have that data on say an SD card, it shouldnt be too hard to read it with an arduino and then put it in EEPROM

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  • Turn Ordinary Appliances to Wifi Controlable IOT

    Definitely an interesting approach.When space constrained a cheaper/smaller ESP8266-01 is an option. although you would need to feed that with 3v3

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  • BruteForce Codefinding for Infrared RGB LEDstrip

    Simon, I am afraid you may mix up infrared and WiFi.this program only scans IR codes, not WiFi codes.Having said that, it is relatively easy to control a led strip via WiFi. there are ready made RGB strips with WiFi attached.Can indeed also use an ESP8266 to control your Ledstrip and control the ESP8266 with yr phone or say OpenHAB.Consider getting a neopixel/WS2812 strip rather than a regular RGB strip. The latter needs more control lines from your ESP8266 plus some FET's to drive the LED's, the former only needs 1 line to drive the strip

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