Tell us about yourself!
Your build looks amazing, very clever using an existing monocular to give some function to your replica. Except for one small detail: the image on Wired is mirror-imaged (flipped left/right) and your prop replica is similarly flipped left/right compared to the screen-used prop (except you corrected the mirror writing).
Just be careful to remember that your speedometer reads low, because you have increased the diameter (and thus circumference/distance travelled with each rotation) of the tyres and you could be ticketed for accidentally speeding.Otherwise the build looks excellent!
I suppose if you used a laser printer, but don't forget that laser toner (the "ink") is a plastic which doesn't soften with water, so it might pucker or distort around whatever is printed rather than uniformly distorting the whole page.
Poor Man's DRO for Taig Lathe
A very clever instructable.I saw another DIY night-vision device which used a low-light security camera module with "privacy screens" or "censorship bars" used to make a cross-hairs out of, which were actually integrated into the video output of the camera.
Minor update is that this track seems to have been discontinued and replaced with VIDGA triple track in the Ikea catalogue.I'm guessing that the rest of this Instructable would have to altered slightly to fit, but the premise is unchanged.
I think you'll probably have to use 2-part casting resin to do this, as I think hot-melt only comes in translucent white(ish) and various solid colours.
I have a suggestion for side-panel material:Oxy/acet welding face shield lenses, in shade 5.These block UV and IR and are made to be optically clear, the other good thing about these sort of lenses is that you can cut them to size/shape with strong scissors or tinsnips.Something like Cigweld part No. 454486 - Shade 5 Polycarbonate
I think the instructions might be something missing from this instructable.