author
3Instructables130,603Views55CommentsBristolJoined February 27th, 2015
I am an electronics engineer working in telecommunications in the UK. Generally I work on chip design for digital radio receivers. I like all things arty and consider chip design a bit arty :) Basically I have a lovely workshop and spend large amounts of time designing and building stuff but also including my little girl Ava as much as possible - trying to teach her to be interested, to question and to think.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus)1 week ago
    Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hi Robert,When I received my board there were no jumpers either. I contacted the seller and he sent them through, was just an oversight.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln2 weeks ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello oki-piovera,I have taken a look at the controller you are interested in. I DO NOT think this controller is ideal for a fused glass kiln design. The controller in question appears to only be able to control one temperature and seems to be targeted more towards pottery kilns. When glass fusing the temperature must be increased at a controlled rate across multiple set points. Similarly the temperature must also be reduced at a controlled rate. Therefore, the controller used must be capable of multiple process steps (generally 8-10) and also programmable rates between steps.Hope that makes sense, please fire away if you have questions ...

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus)1 month ago
    Ciclop 3D Scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Thank you for the feedback !Yes, that supply should be fine - very similar to the one I used.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln1 month ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hi, yes I have some of the same elements. They will work fine in terms of heating the kiln. The only thing that needs addressing is how to mount the elements. The elements you have clip into a ceramic spring loaded holder with a connecting wire. The ceramic holder will probably be up to the 800C+ at the top of the kiln but the wiring (outer coating) will probably break down. So you need to make sire the wiring is protected either by running it inside the brick or by surrounding the inner wire in ceramic sleeving. You can buy ceramic sleeve on ebay. I used the sleeve to run the copper connecting wires out of the lid and into the small terminal box on the top of the kiln lid. The ceramic sleeve prevents the copper wire shorting with the metal lid or terminal box.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln1 month ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    The heating elements I used had bolt terminals at each end complete with a nut and washer (see step 6). I fabricated two steel angle bus bars. Steel is not a particularly good conductor of electricity especially at temperature so I faced the steel bus bars in copper plate (melting point 1085C. The bus bars were then bolted into the firebrick lid, the bolts being seated into holes in the firebrick filled with high temperature adhesive. The same adhesive used to bond the firebricks together - hope that makes sense ?

    I would say the entire project cost me about £250. Of that about £100 was fire brick, fire blanket and heat tolerant adhesive. The controller was about £80 and the remaining £70 on the rest of the parts. Take into account though, I didn't have to buy the enclosure as this was a scrapped item from my work. Almost all of the small parts I sourced from ebay.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln1 month ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello zact01, the heater elements are rated for 240V so are connected directly to the mains but via a circuit breaker for safety (see the schematic I included in the Instructable). The SSR is rated at over 300V and 40A so is switching 240V mains directly to the heater elements. Again everything is protected using a 20A thermal circuit breaker.Hope that helps, please fire away if you have any other questions.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln4 months ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello Beppe,Oh dear that's a real pain ! I bought mine via Amazon. It was a bit more expensive at £80 but I figured if there was a problem I could send it back.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln5 months ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello Beppe,No problem - I had a bit more of a think about your controller. The label says K type thermocouple. So I suspect the range 0 to 400 C has been set using the setpoint high limit (SP H) and setpoint low limit (SP L) which can be found on page 16 of the manual in the parameter list. I seem to remember setting these to 0 C and 850 C for my kiln so that if left working alone the temperature can never exceed 850 C.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln5 months ago
    Home Made Electric Glass Fusing Kiln

    Hello Beppe,The controller doesn't really have a concept of temperature but allows a large selection of thermocouples to be used each with its own resistance v temperature characteristic. I have attached a link to the manual - if you look at the very last page there is a table with measurement ranges depending on which thermocouple you are using. I used a type K range -255 to 1395 C, this type has to be selected in the controller menu system.My controller didn't have a sticker as your does. I suspect the temperature range given is based on the thermocouple supplied and not the controller. Selecting the type K (cAtc) coupler I used the controller works perfectly up to 800 C. Many of these controllers are out there say on ebay and are programmed for specific industrial tasks and I sus...

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    Hello Beppe,The controller doesn't really have a concept of temperature but allows a large selection of thermocouples to be used each with its own resistance v temperature characteristic. I have attached a link to the manual - if you look at the very last page there is a table with measurement ranges depending on which thermocouple you are using. I used a type K range -255 to 1395 C, this type has to be selected in the controller menu system.My controller didn't have a sticker as your does. I suspect the temperature range given is based on the thermocouple supplied and not the controller. Selecting the type K (cAtc) coupler I used the controller works perfectly up to 800 C. Many of these controllers are out there say on ebay and are programmed for specific industrial tasks and I suspect the 0 - 400C range relates to its task - maybe a flow soldering or soldering re-flow machine ?Link : https://xmoddz.com/images/PC900-410-Manual-XModdz.... Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)7 months ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello,It sounds like you have a missing driver on the MacBook Pro or possibly an incompatible driver. Unfortunately, I know absolutely nothing about Apple products and have only ever worked with Microsoft based PCs. You mention a Mac and a MacBook - are these different products ?

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home made electric glass fusing kiln8 months ago
    Home made electric glass fusing kiln

    Hello Sharon, sure no problem. I am in California until the 14th but when I return we can arrange a visit so Rob can check out the kiln first hand. I will email him my number. Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home made electric glass fusing kiln8 months ago
    Home made electric glass fusing kiln

    Hello Sharon,Yes, still happy with the kiln and it is working well. I had one heater element burn out and had to be replaced but I think that was my fault as I tapped it quite hard while lifting out work and may have cracked it. The maybe a better way of supporting the elements but I have not come up with anything making it worth stripping down and replacing.If you are local in Bristol your husband is more than welcome to come over and have a look ?Cheers,Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)10 months ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello Eric,Sorry for the slow reply. Ok, there could be lots of possible issues so the problem needs pulling apart to find the root cause. The camera working can be ignored as the camera is controlled directly by the PC and the Horus PC based software and driver. If you motors and lasers are not working there are three possible area of issue. Either the arduino board itself is not working correctly, or the shield board that drives the motor/lasers is not working or the communication between the PC and the arduino board is not working.So first off - does the Horus PC software talk to the arduino board, ie can you actually connect to the arduino board ?I will go and check mine to see exactly what the response is and what the LED's on the arduino baord are doing.

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)11 months ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Sorry for the delay, missed this postThe bearing is type 16014 70mmx110mmx13mmI sourced mine from herehttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16014-Ball-Bearing-70mmX110mmX13mm-Quality-Bearing-/331894470486?hash=item4d4673b756:g:xMcAAOSwZ1BXcwyL

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello David,I would say the price of $90 is very good value - I have easily spent that and more building the design from scratch and printing my own parts. Personally, I wasn't bothered if it cost more to make everything myself. For me the fun is the building process rather than having the finished article. Printing all the parts does take quite a long time and I used quite a bit of filament getting some of the parts right. The plastic parts in the kit you posted are injection molded rather than 3D printed so the quality is going to be much better.Go for it - looks a good deal.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Yep, you can get them crazy cheap from China through suppliers such as Aliexpress. However, in my experience the delivery times can be measured in weeks if not months. Even though my shield was a little more expensive I really liked the fact that it was a kit. I build stuff all the time and any excuse to assemble something works for me :)Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hi there,Thanks for the feedback, I might point out this is not my design but an open source project which I have built - big difference. The step angle is configurable under the motor control section of the Horus software step degrees, feed rate and acceleration are all programmable. I can't see a reason why a 4k camera could not be used. However given the proximity of the camera to the object I am not sure how much benefit this would be. The camera being used is already an HD camera. This question directed at the Horus software developers might be a better option as they would know whether additional camera resolution will translate directly into scan resolution.Cheers, Dave

    Good evening,I have just looked over the schematics for the CNC shield and also the dedicated Ciclop shield. My conclusion is they are not directly compatible and will require (as has been stated) pins to be remapped in the firmware. The pins that control the stepper motors in particular will need to be remapped and possibly wires tacked on to drive the lasers. By the bottom line is the CNC shield is not pin compatible.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hi there,Good stuff, collecting all the parts is half the fun !I have uploaded an additional image to step 20 showing the mechanical dimensions of the motor I used. I have also added a link to step 21 showing the HLM1230 laser I used. You can find both the motor & lasers on ebay. The motor was about £11 and the lasers about £3.50 each.Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello,Excellent, pleased you managed to print the box. Indeed the box is approximately 75mm x 75mm x100mm. I didn't perform any smoothing or post processing other than convert the raw point cloud from the scanner into a solid mesh.Can you post an image of your printed version of the box ?Cheers, Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello,That is excellent, many thanks for the feedback. Yes, do post some images when you are done and if you have problems/questions just ask.You are correct the pattern and platform models are not with all the other parts for some reason. I have updated step 2 with an additional link or here is it :http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1054078Cheers,Dave

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)1 year ago
    Ciclop 3D scanner (BQ & Horus)

    Hello,Many thanks for the positive feedback, very pleased you liked the Instructable. Regarding the Gimbal - this was an example of an Arduino integrated platform I was giving, I didn't build the gimbal. To be honest they are so cheap to buy I don't think you could build one for the price. Here are a couple of link to either a control board only or a complete gimbal with motors and frame.Control board and sensor: eBay number 301839000122Or complete unit: eBay number 351662059059There are load and loads of them available so hunt about.Cheers,Dave

    Hello everyone,I have just added a download link to the end of step 27 whereby you can download the output from the Ciclop scanner and Meshmixer post processed data.Cheers,Dave

    Hello Simon,Brilliant, very pleased you liked the Instructable .... there are so many project and so little time. Even now I have reduced my working hours to a four day week I still don't have enough tinker time :)

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  • dtrewren commented on jessyratfink's forum topic Call for contest judges1 year ago

    Sure I am happy to help ... tech, workshop or play

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  • dtrewren commented on dtrewren's instructable Home made electric glass fusing kiln1 year ago
    Home made electric glass fusing kiln

    Hi Danny,That is an outstanding effort - I have to say you have obviously put in the time because the kiln really looks great, a very professional job. Can you post a couple of images showing the inside and the distribution of the heating elements ? The first lot of heaters I got hold of just didn't produce the rated output power. Also they were difficult to mount in the lid because of the amount of sag when hot. I found the glass encased heaters much easier to work with and had reliable power output. I have been running mine for over a year now with dozens of firings - so far so good.A very good job, I bet the other half was very pleased with the result !Cheers, Dave

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