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15Instructables512,181Views77 CommentsStockholm, Sweden
IT-professional by day, DIY hobbyist (among other things) on my free time. I allways have one or more projects going on. Usually something to do with home improvement or a tech project or a combination of the two. After discovering Instructables, I figured, why not document for own reference and hopefully for enjoyment of others. I hope you will gain some inspiration from my projects when working on you own. Please let me know if you do! I encourage comments.

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  • ehsmaes commented on MikeTheMaker's instructable The Story, Santa's Shop 20162 days ago
    The Story, Santa's Shop 2016

    Wow, impressive! That's dedication! And I thought I was crazy :-)

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Cheap 3D Delta Printer Improvements1 week ago
    Cheap 3D Delta Printer Improvements

    The mounting points are stock but the new rods are screwed on the outside of the aluminum shaft whereas the original rod slides over. In other words, yes, they are wider but that is one of few changes that doesn't require reconfig. I'm not sure how much printable space I loose (not writing this where my printer is so I can't measure) but I would guess around a centimeter near the tower. This can be a problem for circular objects but for other shapes you can usually work around it planning how you place it on the bed when you slice it. For the new rods you something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Diagonal-Push-Rods-... You get them to even length with this jig: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37306. Watch the video on thingiverse for instructions. The rods are available in di...see more »The mounting points are stock but the new rods are screwed on the outside of the aluminum shaft whereas the original rod slides over. In other words, yes, they are wider but that is one of few changes that doesn't require reconfig. I'm not sure how much printable space I loose (not writing this where my printer is so I can't measure) but I would guess around a centimeter near the tower. This can be a problem for circular objects but for other shapes you can usually work around it planning how you place it on the bed when you slice it. For the new rods you something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carbon-Diagonal-Push-Rods-... You get them to even length with this jig: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:37306. Watch the video on thingiverse for instructions. The rods are available in different lengths so make sure you get a length that is not too far from the original. I think the specified length is the carbon, not taking into account the rod ends.Good luck!

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Apple Crate Coffee Table1 month ago
    Apple Crate Coffee Table

    Sorry, I don't know about that color. I guess you have to take inspiration from the video and make your own project out of it.

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  • ehsmaes's instructable Cheap 3D Delta Printer Improvements's weekly stats: 1 month ago
    • Cheap 3D Delta Printer Improvements
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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    hi hitid! How do you get your TFT display going? I purchased the TFT32 but I have no idea how to configure the firmware for it and google is not helping. I would appreciate any suggestions!

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Arduino Wireless Serial Communication2 months ago
    Arduino Wireless Serial Communication

    Your arduino doesn't have to be attached to a PC but for most applications you need to have one arduino+rf connected to a computer in order to control and/or read data from the other arduino+rf units. But I suppose there could be rare situations where it would make sense to have an autonomous system where arduinos only communicate with eachother. If you have such a use case - yes, it is possible. As for how to use received data in an application - that is really hard to answer. It is up to you. It is just data. Use it like you would any other data.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I will try with a more powerful RPi PSU at some point but first I need to get the second extruder running. The heater output for E1 works but I only have two out of four thermistor ports working (p0.23 and p0.26) which is enough for B and E0. The other two don't work. Do you think any of the other unused ports can be used for thermistor readings (p0.14 on J7 for example)?Other reasons on why I prefer Octoprint on RPi is that the built in smoothie gui is pretty rough and doesn't support multi extruder setups. Maybe multi extrusion is supported by the upgraded imrahil-ui (http://smoothieware.org/install-web-interface) but that didn't work at all on my board.

    You are right. I did that already though. I turned the second module conf off then moved the (confirmed working) thermistor from E0 to each of the ports and changed the config accordingly. This is how I determined that two are broken. I am down to using a different pin or replacing the board.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    I use the Pi with Octoprint which I rather like. Maybe I'll try the built-in pronterface later on. I am converting from a Ramps-board which didn't have that option. The "problem" with power is that I want to be able to cut power to fans, motors, etc (essentialy sleep mode) but still leave the board on-line. Right now I have a physical power switch for the 12v-supply but I will at some point try to autmate it with GCODE, a leftover GPIO-pin and a relay.By the way, do you know if stock firmware is compatible with SBASE? It seems MKS are not too snappy at releasing new builds.

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  • Configuring MKS Sbase v1.2 32-bit Controller basics and intro to Smoothieware.

    Hi, I have the SBASE 1.3 and I have it working fine for the first hotend. For the life of me, I can't get the setup for the second hotend to work. Have you (or anyone on this thread) got dual/multi-extrusion working on this board? Maybe I have a defective board, who knows. I have a temperature reading of 38.5C on the second termistor input (regardless if anything is connected). The power mosfet LED for the E2 doesn't light up either if I try to turn it on (and doesn't set a new target temp for it). Anyone having the same problem? Any examples of a working setup?By the way, if you are using a Raspberry Pi to drive the board you need a powered USB-hub between the Pi and the SBASE. If you don't, the 12v/24v power has to be on all the time. There is not enought USB current from the Pi to dr...see more »Hi, I have the SBASE 1.3 and I have it working fine for the first hotend. For the life of me, I can't get the setup for the second hotend to work. Have you (or anyone on this thread) got dual/multi-extrusion working on this board? Maybe I have a defective board, who knows. I have a temperature reading of 38.5C on the second termistor input (regardless if anything is connected). The power mosfet LED for the E2 doesn't light up either if I try to turn it on (and doesn't set a new target temp for it). Anyone having the same problem? Any examples of a working setup?By the way, if you are using a Raspberry Pi to drive the board you need a powered USB-hub between the Pi and the SBASE. If you don't, the 12v/24v power has to be on all the time. There is not enought USB current from the Pi to drive the SBASE core.

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Two way MQTT-SMS Bridge (Linkit One)3 months ago
    Two way MQTT-SMS Bridge (Linkit One)

    I'm glad you like it! Just a wild guess. Do your two subscribers have unique client-id's?

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Arduino Wireless Serial Communication3 months ago
    Arduino Wireless Serial Communication

    I have not had that use case myself but yes, I can't see why not. It should work.

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  • ehsmaes commented on ehsmaes's instructable Motorize IoT with ESP82664 months ago
    Motorize IoT with ESP8266

    Temporary pause on part two :-) I'm on vacation for a couple of weeks. I will get back to it soon thereafter!

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