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I'd recommend trying a few different configurations, to see what is best for your machine. My machine is configured to use half-stepping. The user guide for your motor driver should show how to configure it for half-stepping. The user guide should also show how to connect the motor.To centre the laser, you will need some reference points. One way to do this is to add limit switches in a corner of your engraving area (X/Y axes). You could get the machine to move the motors until it hits the limit switches, and that could be considered the origin of your work area. Alternatively, you could place the origin at an offset to the corner, based on a certain number of X/Y steps. My machine doesn't have this functionality - you would need to modify the arduino code and add the switch hardware to...see more »I'd recommend trying a few different configurations, to see what is best for your machine. My machine is configured to use half-stepping. The user guide for your motor driver should show how to configure it for half-stepping. The user guide should also show how to connect the motor.To centre the laser, you will need some reference points. One way to do this is to add limit switches in a corner of your engraving area (X/Y axes). You could get the machine to move the motors until it hits the limit switches, and that could be considered the origin of your work area. Alternatively, you could place the origin at an offset to the corner, based on a certain number of X/Y steps. My machine doesn't have this functionality - you would need to modify the arduino code and add the switch hardware to add a "centre" function.
The motor drivers connect to the Arduino and stepper motors. My drivers had some jumper switches for configuring half-stepping / micro-stepping.My software is available - the files can be downloaded from Step 8. You will probably need to modify the Arduino sketch slightly to work with your machine (adjust timings, pin assignments, etc). If you want to engrave using GCode instead, GRBL is still available online.My software doesn't centre the laser position, but the laser can manually be driven to a start position using the Arduino serial monitor, by sending it text strings (1,3,5,7 for right, left, up, down)
Hi, if your motor driver supports half-stepping or micro-stepping, that should help to reduce the motor vibrations. Also, if your machine has a strong, sturdy frame, motor vibrations shouldn't affect the engraving quality.Regarding size, if you are engraving using my raster software, your machine will have a particular resolution - for my machine, it is 254 dpi (the pixel pitch is 0.1mm). You can control the size of the engraved image by scaling the bitmap image - for example, with my machine, a 10cm x 10cm engraving corresponds to a bitmap image of 1000 pixels x 1000 pixels
Yes, my machine is Arduino based. For Gcode (vector mode), I use GRBL. For raster engraving, I use the custom made software in Step 8
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Hi, I haven't tried to do this myself, but some people have written apps for viewing IP camera streams on their Android device. If you do a Google search for "android mjpeg stream viewer" there are a few results which may help.
Hi,(I used Google translate, so hopefully these answers are helpful). For vector mode (with GRBL), I used the following:Solidworks - to create the 2D DXF drawingDXF2GCode - to convert the DXF into GCodeUniversal GCode Sender - to send the GCode to the ArduinoIn Spanish (Google Translate):(Yousé Google traducir, así que espero que estas respuestas son útiles). Para elmodo vectorial (con GRBL), utilicé lo siguiente:Solidworks- para crear el dibujo 2D DXFDXF2GCode- para convertir el DXF en GCodeUniversal GCode Sender -para enviar el GCode al Arduino
Feel free to use my code as an example. Also, I find that making very small / basic Arduino sketches that only do one thing is a good way to start. Once you have a few of these, you can combine them slowly, and you'll eventually have something complicated that you made from scratch
If there isn't enough documentation for the ESC in your car, you could replace it with a different ESC that is easier to program / interface with an Arduino. The Axial Racing ESC I used has pretty good instructions for setting it up. On the Arduino side, controlling the Axial ESC is the same as controlling a servo - a value of "0 degrees" is full speed reverse, "180 degrees" is full speed forwards, "90 degrees" is stopped.
There are some alternatives such as HC-12 modules. I haven't tried these yet, but apparently they can handle long distances (not sure about latency / transfer rates). You might need to check frequency / transmission power limits in your country. If you are planning to use it in a fixed location, another option is WiFi with a few WiFi repeaters to increase coverage area. WiFi is probably one of the more robust solutions for reliable data transmission (but it is more complicated to use than a serial based interface).
If you are familiar with C#, you could probably modify the C# application to accept keyboard input, instead of an Xbox controller. However, you would lose fine motor/steering control, as the keyboard can only provide on/off signals (instead of the "analog" sticks / triggers). The wireless communication method doesn't really matter. I like XBee modules (series 1) because they are very simple to setup and use (they work as a serial interface), but they are not reliable over long distances. (If you use something other than XBee / serial, the C# application would need extra modification)
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Hi, it is probably possible with some modifications - for example, by changing all the communication to WiFi (instead of XBee + WiFi). However, I've never made an Android app, so I'm not sure how difficult it would be.
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