gmoon

And one with the "mix" POT:

Here's a dual pass/cut control (break at P1 and P2):

Here's the Norma...

Yeah, probably--if there's no other damage.

Carefully sand off any old glue from both the guitar top and the back of the bridge. You can "mask off" the finish on the guitar with tape; then sanding shouldn't mar it.

Ideally you would want to use fancy deep-throated C-clamps which are designed specifically for this purpose. But those are expensive, and probably not worth the money unless the guitar is pricey. Instead just apply the glue and place a weight on top of the bridge.

If it's a fancy expensive guitar it's better to have this done by a professional. They will use hide glue, and make sure the repair is done right.

If it's not expensive, just buy some epoxy and glue that sucker down...

Schematic for the "variable inductor" wah pedal.

The Duolian's bridge, and the nut extension...

Stripping the "trailer park mojo" from the Duolian...

The Duolian, after stripping the multiple coats of paint. Only the original Duco paint (and wear) now remain. The guitar sounds much better, too.

Yeah, AM, that's me. I've been a climber for about 15 years (this photo was already in my library...)

Ah, cool, you're a climber! It's one of those things that "clicked" for me (never was a big "team sports" guy...) Yes, that's a local waterfall, although I have ice climbed in other places (including a bit of mountaineering.) For a relatively flat midwestern state, we have some decent ice. Unfortunately, it's not a long or predicable season (that's why we're climbing at night in the one photo! Only time we could get together...) Here's a couple more photos of waterfall ice--a short fall, and a longer one (I'm rappelling down in the first.) Climb on...

Hey, if you get a chance, try it!

The gear is expensive, though (especially compared to bouldering, etc.) So your best bet is to find someone who's already equipped--like a rockwall employee, or a scouting instructor. They could hook you up, and you'd get some proper instruction, too.

_{And do wear a helmet. Chucks of ice are constantly raining down...}

How do you like the Jackson? Pretty awesome metal guitar, I bet... You should figure out a way to showcase the new guitar in the instructable...Can't ya just get a cheap webcam or somethin'? Tell your dad you need it for a school project... ;-)

Hey. Can you play it OK--i.e., is it at the right height for playing?

"Strat style" bridges pivot (usually two posts or six screws) and you can adjust the overall height with those posts/screws.

Are there springs installed? You need 'em.

Some people lock the bridges in place so they don't whammy (a 'hard tail'), usually with a wooden block. If it's 'strat style,' pop open the backplate to check this (and the springs.)

A photo would help (especially if it's not a "strat style"...)

Cramming in an ill-fitting screwdriver, or trying to tremolo? Either way, don't do that. It shouldn't take much pressure at all to move the bridge. With the leverage of an arm (or screwdriver) you should be able to move it with one finger....

If you tried to force it, it's probably a "hardtail."

Changed your name again? Getting tough to keep track..

Yes, it works, if you've got common sense. Don't force a screwdriver, or anything else in the hole if it doesn't want to fit...

Quote: OK--have you tried inserting a screwdriver or something into the tremolo hole? That'll tell you if it moves at all.

And DUDE, I warned you that some bridges are converted to hardtails. No amount of leverage is gonna make it tremolo if it's screwed or blocked specifically to prevent it from moving.

Did you take the backplate off, as I suggested?

OK, assuming the screwdriver was the right diameter, and fit in the hole: You need to figure out why the bridge isn't moving. Are the pivot screws on the front tightened so much they are holding the bridge down? Is there a block of wood or something in the body cavity fixing it in place? Or does the bridge have some other type of way of making it hardtail? Like a screw in the 'temolo block.' So many different Strat-style bridges...

Then how the heck did you trash the hole?

Did you use a regular (slot) screw driver? I use a phillips, 'cause the shaft is all the same diameter--doesn't have a broader end. If you tried to cram a regular driver in, it probably would only go in part way (and wouldn't fill the diameter of the the hole either--could certainly cause damage.) Maybe that's what happened...

Then I give up.

I guess the screwdriver didn't quite fit, then. Ya know you can buy tem arms for less than $10, right?

I got mine from ebay:

Search for 'tremolo arm' , here's an example sellers page.

OK--have you tried inserting a screwdriver or something into the tremolo hole? That'll tell you if it moves at all. The number of springs makes a difference. If you have four or five springs, the bridge is probably pulled tight against the cavity. It will still work as a 'dive bomb' tremolo, but you can't tremolo upward. A tremolo setup like that probably stays in tune better, but there are other issues: you can't make a 'surf' type tremolo, since it can only tune down. There's also usually an audible 'clunk' when you release the whammy bar--the bridge comes back to rest against the body cavity.

OK. Everything working then? If it's not floating (and you want that), take out the middle spring. The loop end of the springs (not the bridge) hook to a bracket. You can also adjust the spring tension by screwing that bracket in tighter or loosening it. One other trick--if two springs aren't tensioned enough (but three are too much) you can hook the spring loops to the outer ends of the bracket, but in one notch on the bridge (closer to the center)...

Hey, Fender. I don't see anything wrong with $25--it's gotta pay for the switch, the guitar tech's time (drilling the hole, doing the wiring) etc. Still, you could do it yourself for just the cost of the switch (if you have a drill and a soldering iron.) Why don't you and your dad make this an instructable? Get a N.O. (Normally Open) 'momentary' switch, one that doesn't 'click' on and off. A doorbell is an example of this type. You could use a toggle, too, but I guess that doesn't work as quickly (I can do this with the pickup selector on my Les Paul--just turn down the volume on the other pickup to zero.) Wire the switch to create a deliberate signal 'short'--so it connects the output signal (where the jack connects to the tip of the amp cord) directly to GND (on the jack, or anywhere else there's a handy ground.) So you're not cutting out the signal, you're just 'shunting' it directly to GND when the switch is closed (pressed.)

If it's a father-son project, maybe your dad will pay for it (the switch and tools)... And If you get the PRS, then the old guitar (assuming you don't trade it in) could be your 'modding' axe. I'd advise a little caution, though--lots of guitars are ruined because people grab their tools and start hacking away, and without any real plan or preparation. Just do some research first, the internet has lots of guitar modding info.