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Has anyone managed to talk to those new BLE relay modules available recently? The vendors only supply an android or apple app - no protocol info to drive from arduino or raspberry pi. (This style: http://www.icstation.com/2bit-relay-module-bluetooth-precise-android-apple-smart-home-switch-p-8463.html - there is another style ( http://www.tinyosshop.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=369 ) that uses *-bee modules and has a published serial protocol but those modules are much more expensive)
This is way over-engineered for the problem. All you need is a tilt switch.https://www.instructables.com/id/Automatic-Bicycle-Hand-signal-triggered-Indicator-/
I hear that Broadcom pin numbers 12/13/18/19 are capable of hardware PWM support so may be a better choice than the ones above. OTOH I had previously understood that only pin 18 was supported by hardware PWM so I don't know if this applies to all models.
Why use an approximation when an accurate calculation is available?http://stjarnhimlen.se/comp/sunriset.cThis may be helpful in getting an approximate lat/lon for use with the above: curl -s "https://freegeoip.net/csv/`curl -s v4.ident.me`"|tr ',' '\n'|tail -3|head -2|tr '\n' ' '
Easiest RGB LED Strip With ...View Instructable »
A PIR sensor would be a lot cheaper and more effective than a sense hat.
to answer my own question - this amplifier does *not* connect the input +V to 12v so it is safe to drive the amp directly from the +5V and GPIO pins (4,5,6) of the Raspberry Pi! I'll be posting an instructable shortly after I've found the answer to a driver issue. ( https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=176740&p=1126989 )
perhaps a naive question, but... these LED strips have +12V and RGB signal pins. They don't have a GND. How can there be a circuit? There's nowhere for the electrons to go! Also I would like to try this myself but have a different style of amp (looks like this: https://www.flexfireleds.com/rgb-signal-amplifier/ ) - putting a meter on it shows that it does *not* feed back 12V to the input side. Will that affect how to hook it up?
RPI interchangeable lens camera from old SLR camera lens
Funny story about that... I tried to unscrew a picam lens to do close-focus for another project, but it was one of the chinese clone picams and turns out the lens doesn't unscrew - after a huge amount of forcing I actually broke the lens off by accident. Fortunately I kept the broken camera, which means I already have one that I can try with your suggestion! (An excellent example of why never to throw damaged parts away if you don't have to)
I disagree about needing a 9V battery to drive the relays - I drive 10 relays (an 8-relay board and a 2-relay board) from the GPIO pins of a Raspberry Pi. Initially I did think I was having problems with power but it turned out I had been sent a relay board with a faulty relay on it. After swapping boards it has worked every time - https://www.instructables.com/id/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/
could you execute these commands please, so I can work out what the problem might be:cd /usr/local/src/echo/echo-masterfgrep act\( *
just FYI the same model crimping tool a little cheaper at Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Wovier-Compression-Ratcheting-0-1-1-0mm2-Wire-electrode/dp/B01CE4FAMW/
That's great! I'm looking forward to the day when Pi Zeros or equivalent are something you keep several of in a drawer for use in projects like this and are not premium items that are so hard to get hold of! (Really, having to get a single unit airmailed from the UK is just ridiculous). Using the Zero here has really made your version of this project much neater. Thanks for posting.
I did something very similar except with a Raspberry Pi... https://www.instructables.com/id/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/
Agreed, most of the IR is filtered out - you'll be able to see an IR LED directly (eg a remote control) and maybe some things that are within a couple of feet of your IR light source but the sort of thing you see with a night vision security camera where people are illuminated maybe 30 ft away is unlikely with most cell phone cameras, even though that illuminator you're using reaches distances like that. Unfortunately the filters can be extremely hard to remove without damaging your equipment - you might consider experimenting with a Pi Zero and a Pi NoIR camera...
Do you know if anyone has tried PCB etching with Armour Etch? (The stuff that crafters use to etch glass) I googled for it and didn't find any, but maybe someone more switched in to the DIY PCB scene might have seen something on a BBS somewhere?
Can you use power while charging? Ie use the solar panel to charge an outdoor project while the project is powered up 24x7?
Depends where you want to put the effort in. *Building* what you suggest is trivial, I could do it in 10 minutes and in fact I do have the hardware. (transmitters and receivers for both frequencies, plus an SDR for debugging). However programming a system like that is quite another matter. I got the software for my system up in an afternoon. If I had to reverse engineer the remote control signals and duplicate them, I would imagine that would take considerably longer.In point of fact, I recently bought a "Hook" system which is a professional implementation that does what you suggest. Originally I built this the relay way because it was a lot easier than learning how to generate the correct signals for the wireless; now I prefer that it uses the original remote, because it ...see more »Depends where you want to put the effort in. *Building* what you suggest is trivial, I could do it in 10 minutes and in fact I do have the hardware. (transmitters and receivers for both frequencies, plus an SDR for debugging). However programming a system like that is quite another matter. I got the software for my system up in an afternoon. If I had to reverse engineer the remote control signals and duplicate them, I would imagine that would take considerably longer.In point of fact, I recently bought a "Hook" system which is a professional implementation that does what you suggest. Originally I built this the relay way because it was a lot easier than learning how to generate the correct signals for the wireless; now I prefer that it uses the original remote, because it turns out that even the professionally implemented Hook is far less reliable than the original remote - there appears to be a problem duplicating the control signals accurately. When I turn on half a dozen lights with the Hook, it's very seldom that all of them turn on, whereas I've never had a failure with my own implementation.
Followup on the Hook after a couple of weeks of using it: Pro: you can control a _lot_ more devices with it; Con: it is nowhere near as reliable as the original remote at turning the devices off and on. The number of failed attempts is so high that I've just about given up on it and plan to revert to using my own design soon, possibly with mrlewis93's mod of using optocouplers and a Pi Zero to get the size down.
I appreciate you letting me know - it makes the effort writing the project up worthwhile when someone actually builds your project! Any chance you could upload a photo of yours (with the "I made one" option) - I didn't know optocouplers were smaller - had assumed they were the same package as relays. I'ld like to see your compact version. I found an old 1960's mechanical switch controller (looks like an alarm clock) that I've gutted and am working on squeezing mine into!
I was hoping that it implied the information was out there, but you're probably right - it'll be proprietary :-( I wonder if they have access to the info from the manufacturers or if they reverse engineered a bunch of remotes like you did?
This may be new since you wrote your article: http://removeandreplace.com/2016/06/17/universal-air-conditioner-remote-control-codes/
Well yes, it's my supper rather than breakfast!
I bet you're not going to approve of this, but I just love granola when it's served in a mixture that's 2/3rds plain lowfat yoghurt and 1/3rd sugar-free Cool Whip :-) Tasty!
I would recommend projecting the image on to the cake for the painting step.
Norwegian Brown Cheese
Wow - I had no idea that there was no sugar added to Gjetost - I love this kind of cheese but my wife won't let me buy it because it's so sweet (she does a good job of keeping my diabetes in check!) - but we'd always assumed the cheese was made with added sugar. Never realised it was just lactose from boiled-down milk. (Which I think is not so dangerous to diabetics, at least that's the excuse I use when I buy Indian sweets like Kaju Katli which don't have sucrose either :-) )
PS At least in South Texas, this is sold in the local supermarkets such as HEB.This brand specifically: https://www.amazon.com/Ski-Queen-Gjetost-2-pack/dp/B00E8HZDCQ/ (cheaper in the stores than that Amazon seller)
I have a vague recollection of making something that was just like the caramel in a mars bar, and although I forget how exactly I did it, I think it may have been as simple as a can of sweetened condensed milk in a microwave. (Not in the actual can of course!) Have you experimented with microwaving it instead of boiling it at all?
My wife has a "never fail" fudge recipe that is based on jars of Marshmallow. I may record her making it for Christmas so we can see which really is the easiest ever :-)
maybe make a bed of peltier chips for surface cooling without a breeze?
Party Pooper!View Instructable »
Thanks, I'll look into ha-bridge. ( http://bwssystems.com/ , https://github.com/bwssytems/ha-bridge ) Also I found a device called 'Hook' yesterday (which I've already ordered!) that looks better than what I implemented at the same cost ($50) - they clone the RF signals rather than using relays: http://www.hooksmarthome.com/
with haggis and tatties!
In case anyone expands a system like this, that was the wrong board above - this is what I should have linked to: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262136732889
With a little effort you can have the pi broadcast its IP address (either DNS or with Bonjour) or you can configure it to always be given the same address by your router. Scanning for the IP each time is a bit awkward.
Using an android is a very cost-effective way of getting a reasonable sized screen on cheap. The downside is that VNC isn't fast enough for real-time video or even most reasonably fast video games. But if you're just using it as a semi-static display (eg for weather, or as a soft panel for an in-home lights controller etc) then it's a good solution. I've seen cheap Chinese androids down at the $30 mark, and even a relatively good machine like a Kindle Fire is sometimes on sale cheaper than the official Pi LCD screen.
Actually '9V' rechargables are usually really 7.4V Lipos, and when you take into account the .6V drop from a typical buck converter/regulator, you're in the right ballpark for running a 5V system such as a Raspberry Pi.
I upgraded my system a couple of weeks ago to support all 5 devices - the version of fauxmo.py at https://github.com/makermusings/fauxmo works fine with multiple devices.
I'm currently working on using this to add commands like "alexa, turn on bbc america". It's complex. First I send a 'Wake On Lan' packet to my LG Bluray player (since my TV doesn't have WOL itself, and it doesn't wake up for my DirectTV box, but it will wake up for the HDMI CEC signal from the bluray :-( ). Then I ask the LG TV to change input to the DirectTV box, then I ask the DirectTV box to select the appropriate channel. All of these are doable over local network IP, but getting them all to play together is hard work! I'm not quite there yet. (Blueray and DirectTV are working, but I'm having problems controlling the 2011 model of LG TV) Icing on the cake, I'm getting the festival speech synth to work with a bluetooth speaker so I can get the Echo to report what is pla...see more »I'm currently working on using this to add commands like "alexa, turn on bbc america". It's complex. First I send a 'Wake On Lan' packet to my LG Bluray player (since my TV doesn't have WOL itself, and it doesn't wake up for my DirectTV box, but it will wake up for the HDMI CEC signal from the bluray :-( ). Then I ask the LG TV to change input to the DirectTV box, then I ask the DirectTV box to select the appropriate channel. All of these are doable over local network IP, but getting them all to play together is hard work! I'm not quite there yet. (Blueray and DirectTV are working, but I'm having problems controlling the 2011 model of LG TV) Icing on the cake, I'm getting the festival speech synth to work with a bluetooth speaker so I can get the Echo to report what is playing...
You have to have some way of controlling your device from a computer. For instance, a shell script that access GPIO pins, or sends a command to an IP-enabled device using some device-specific protocol. Then you modify the python code that this project refers to, so that it invokes that shell script on the web server where it is running. (See my remote control project below for an actual example)
fyi there's a newer version of fauxmo.py at https://raw.githubusercontent.com/makermusings/fauxmo/master/fauxmo.py which supports multiple devices. I've tried it - it works. It fetches a web cgi to cause the action to be initiated. You have to supply that cgi script yourself.
If you can wait a bit, I've recently bought a Pi Zero with a camera cable, and intend to re-do the retrocam using that instead - it should be much easier to fit in the camera body. I have a second camera ready, and I'll photograph the process more carefully next time. The photos were all right but getting the exposure right automatically was tricky - if it was well exposed indoors, it would be washed-out in bright sunshine. I now have a lux meter sensor that I want to add in the next one to use as a built-in light-meter. It would be possible to use the camera as a light meter but there would be a noticable delay between pressing the button and the picture being taken which I didn't want.
Don't insects get in through the holes in the top? I live in a hot climate (south texas) and would be inclined to do this rather than use an electric dehydrator but I guarantee that drosophila, flies, and ants would be all over it if there was the slightest entrance for them to use.
I'm retired now, but when I was working we had many displays that were rotatable, and they all sensed when the display was rotated and the OS (Windows in our case) adjusted and rotated the display automatically to match, I think you've assumed that this doesn't happen because you haven't seen a display that behaves like this? It *is* fully automatic. Unfortunately since I no longer have access to that hardware I can't look at the specific models to give you a reference however a quick Google search finds many: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2042888/review-three-widescreen-hd-monitors-that-pivot-from-portrait-to-landscape.html Both VGA and HDMI connectors support protocols nowadays to announce the orientation to the OS.
Rrotatable displays signal to the OS when they are rotated, and the screen driver adjusts automatically. Did you do this because you don't have the right drivers, or because the monitor you're using doesn't have rotation support? Instead of adding an external interface to communicate with the PC, wouldn't it be cleaner to modify the VGA or HDMI interface to report the rotation like a display that has built-in rotation support would do, so you can use the automatic rotation support in the OS? (I'm not criticising the project - it's a nice piece of work - I'm just interested in how you came to the design decisions that you did)
Actually I haven't yet added a second device so I can't advise yet - it's something I plan to do but with other commitments it may be about a month or so before I can work on it. You'll probably have worked it out yourself before I do! One (rather poor) solution that springs to mind - if there isn't a more sensible one available - would be to attach multiple IP addresses to your Pi and determine which device to enable based on which IP address it was accessed under. Whether that could be done by one listener on all IPs or whether you would need multiple copies of the listener, I'm not sure.Thanks for the heads-up on relay bounce - I guess it will be an issue for remotes where the key toggles something - with this remote it just reissued the same command, and two 'on's are still just ...see more »Actually I haven't yet added a second device so I can't advise yet - it's something I plan to do but with other commitments it may be about a month or so before I can work on it. You'll probably have worked it out yourself before I do! One (rather poor) solution that springs to mind - if there isn't a more sensible one available - would be to attach multiple IP addresses to your Pi and determine which device to enable based on which IP address it was accessed under. Whether that could be done by one listener on all IPs or whether you would need multiple copies of the listener, I'm not sure.Thanks for the heads-up on relay bounce - I guess it will be an issue for remotes where the key toggles something - with this remote it just reissued the same command, and two 'on's are still just an 'on'. The remote has separate on and off buttons.By the way have you seen this? https://hackaday.io/project/6820-amazon-echo-voice-command-automation
No state income tax in Texas may be preferable in the long run, at least until you retire, and then move to a 'no sales tax' state!
This is something that everyone who has ever tried to pick up iron filings does on their second attempt :-) Hopefully by publishing this you'll save a few people one wasted magnet on their first attempt!
I use Instamorph (polycaprolactone) for the mold and Oogo (caulk) for the cast. Much cheaper than Sugru!
Reusing disposable foaming dispensers is a smart idea but this formula is way overkill. All you need is just dishwashing liquid, watered down to approx 1:10.
I live in South Texas where you'll see drosophila appear out of nowhere if you let a banana get even a day beyond ripe :-) But they disappear as soon as the fruit is disposed of. If you have a chronic problem, it's unlikely to be fruit flies so an alcohol/sugar trap is unlikely to work. I have however found that small ants are very attracted to saucers of sugar and they are easy to eliminate with a spray of windex or similar once the saucer is full. Two or three days of this can get rid of an incursion quite effectively.
I don't think the Peltier would be strong enough to substitute for the ice but I'm fairly sure it could be used to cool down the water on return and allow you to recirculate it. Even if you couldn't 100% maintain thermal equilibrium, it might extend the working period significantly. In any case you earned my vote for this competition :-)
What do you think of the virtual keyboard? (I found it quite unusable, to the extent that I'm saving my display until I have some full-screen custom application I can use it on that doesn't require a keyboard.)
Yep, the idea is definitely expandable. I'd probably use something like http://www.ebay.com/itm/CD74HC4067-16-Channel-Analog-Digital-Multiplexer-Breakout-Board-Module-Arduino/121817976911?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D35389%26meid%3Da5d8654b1ec14a5b8c8036186854e900%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161724821543 to select the remote...
This is really good work, but quite complicated, which limits how many people are likely to build it. I came up with an easier way to control outlets by using a handheld remote that is triggered by relays controlled by a raspberry pi: https://www.instructables.com/id/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/ - Pi programming is a lot easier than arduino programming, though maybe not as much fun.
This looks like a fun hobby! Do you have to keep the antenna above the surface or can it go deeper and keep in radio contact? Have you programmed a failsafe to return to the surface if radio contact is lost? Any thoughts about using a 9DOF accelerometer/gyro/compass and GPS for planning a route or bringing it home automatically if you lose radio contact?
have you considered using a Peltier to regulate the reservoir temperature? It would need some radiative fins on the back to have somewhere to pump the heat to, but it could be done I think... Also, could this be powered by a solar panel on the camelback?
I used your instructions in my Instructable, https://www.instructables.com/id/Control-Any-Remote-From-a-Raspberry-Pi-and-Amazon-/ - thanks! - really easy and very effective!
Control any remote from a R...View Instructable »
How To Turn a Digital Photo Print into a Beautiful Painting (using water!)
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