With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
Tell us about yourself!
Variable DC Power Supply for <$15
Control your Computer... with a LASER!
The power supply in this ible can only deliver 2.7A and the regulator can only handle 1.5A. Right? - tgvoss
it will burn out after 3amps - WasimA22
Magnetic Stirrer w/ Hotplate for <$30
does this create less power than is needed to generate it. Like other hydrogen generators
Actually most hydrogen found in nature is molecular...it exists as H2 like O2, N2, I2, F2, Cl2 and Br2. Or as I learned the 'diatomic' molecules:HonI FiCl Brs (pronounced 'honey fickle burrs') - Thanks Coach Pauley...26 years later I still remember!
So how much hydrogen is in the average bucket of water?
Generating Hydrogen... without Batteries
The idea overall is a fair one but there are a few points which need to be mentioned, some already made by others.1. You need to connect the middle tag of the potentiometer (to either side) otherwise it will have no effect at all.2. Ideally, you might want to make (or buy, they are dirt cheap - £2 or so) a little motor controller from an auction site. The reason is that the motor will then have full torque even at very low revs. A potentiometer for this is not really ideal especially if the medium being stirred is perhaps a bit "thicker" than water - so requiring lower speed and full torque.3. Don't wire the LED in series with anything other than perhaps a 560 Ohm - to 1K resistor. Wired as shown will result in the LED becoming a DED (Dark emitting Diode).4. Don't use hot melt unless you will never be running more than about 50C - it softens quite easily. Araldite is not bad - and silicone is also resilient to high temp.5. For even a fairly modest peltier unit (that is at least big enough to be potentially useful), you are going to want at LEAST 5A at 9V. Personally I would suggest a motor, controller and power supply for 10A at 12V (fairly cheap on an auction site though certainly not $5)6. You need to heatsink the bottom of the peltier junction - otherwise within the space of a few seconds, the entire module will just keep getting hotter as it has no ability to "pump the heat away". A nice big heatsink is required - which then means a new layout is needed with regards tot he stirrer system.One possibility is to use four peltier junctions, each heatsinked and then have a small gap between them, such that the motor shaft can come up through the middle of them all. Either way, without a heatsink, this will not work for more than a few seconds on "cooling mode". Heating mode will work ok though as the entire assembly will just keep getting hotter.In short, a good idea but not one to construct yourself unless you can understand each of the points above. If you just construct "as shown" you will see a very brief flash from the LED and a stalled motor - or one barely running at all equivalent to slowest possible speed setting).So FAB idea for an instructible, but does need a little polishing to make it work.
Join 2 million + to receive instant DIY inspiration in your inbox.
Download our apps!
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.