With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
Tell us about yourself!
Robot Foam Cutter
The design may have changed over time, however on my machine there is a slot on the vertical frame on the left side. It is mounted in there and triggered when the carriage lowers on the two lead screws. The slot allows you to adjust the position.
One question, how to adjust the switch of the vertical z axis? Is there any instruction or video to do? Thank you.
Migbot Prusa I3 3D Printer - Assembly and Use
Hi I have had this printer for a while and it has been working fine until I have fitted a proximity sensor. I have fitted a sn04-4 as is fitted in the full kit. I have removed my existing Z end stop and plugged the sensor and negative to this plug on the mks and the live from the 12v input I have wired in a resistor circuit to drop the sensor voltage. Also uploaded firmware via Gary McKinley GitHub. All seems to work fine on the new firmware apart from auto bed levelling / z end stop.Any help would be appreciated.
Please see bottom of step 12. There is a link to the .ino file.
can you send the code please email@example.com
i had problems with extruding at first , in my case, it was a the extruder motor pinion and filament guide assemly , the pinion as loose and it did not rotate, and the assembly was not aligned properly either, check your extruder pinion to see if it is locked in the correct position on the motor shaft
bed leveling is the most important i assume, also your limit y and z stop switched, you want to make it so that there is enough space between the nozzle and bed to fit in a single sheet of paper with a slight drag to it, at every point in the bed, meaning that you auto home the printer on the printer itself then proceed from there, starting with the Z stop switch (z is upwards and downwards movement of the carriage) , y is your bed back and forwrd, x is your carriage left and right , hope that helps , also your printer wont extrude until the nozzle is already at heating point , its a safeguard of the firmware , i use 210 temp for nozzle with pla, 70 degree bed works ok , you can go lower if small objects, also , try sanding your aluminum bed in a criss cross pattern (do this before leveling it) to help with first layer adhetion, and you can make a slurry with elmers glue and water if you still got problems spread a thin layer on bed , let it dry and print , hope that helps
DriveMyPhone - Smartphone Controlled 3D Printed Vehicle
Also can you send the code to the mail ID: firstname.lastname@example.org
Can i use arduino uno instead and make the same
I have already assembled my printer. I have trouble calibrating it though. Any advice?
I have already assembled my printer. I couldn't figure out how to calibrate it though. Any advice?
So cool. Nice job on this! I wish I needed one... ha
all right when i finished installing the printer and at first hand it all seems to work properly, but noir the extruder or the hot bed are heating, i've been trying conectit to a different out put and there it seems to work properly at least the hot bed but at the moment of printing all the motors move how it should but it dosen't extrudes the material, i'll be very gratefull if you can help me whit this problem. Sorry for bad inglish.
Hello, I finished to built my migbot prusa I3. I tested the motors. X, Y and Z are OK but the extruder don't spin. I remove the motor to test it on another output and it work. I put an another motor on extruder's output and it doesn't work. I guess the extruder output is dead. How to check it? Is there a security that is can avoid extruder spin?
Hello,I've got a new issue.At my first print, PLA does not stay in bed at all, PLA just making a "ball" on the noze. I used polyimide for the second test, it is better, the piece start to be formed, but the make go away before the print is finished. I used 210°C for nose and 65°C for the bed ... is it good ? what are you setting ?Thank you - AurélienD5
Hello , I need to have the original firmware migbot only I can find in the folder 3dprinter github firmware Merlin . I would like to share please firmware originally brings the printer , I'm trying to get the SD card to work and can not. so I tried to load the firmware but I merlin error in the compilation. Thank you - Zaragutia
lol, i didn't think my english is so bad.Ok, voici la version Française alors.Lors de ma première impression, le PLA n'adhérait pas du tout au plateau. Il se contentait de faire une boule à la base de la buse qui glissait sur le plateau. J'ai tenté différents réglages (changer la température, rapprocher la buse du plateau, etc.) rien n'y faisait, en aucun cas le PLA n'adhérait. J'ai acheté et utilisé du Polyamide, cette fois la première couche est restée et la pièce à pu commencer à s'imprimer mais à la moitié de la pièce environ elle s'est décollée.Actuellement je met la buse à 210°C et la plateau à 65°C. Je voulais juste savoir quels sont vos réglages pour du PLA sur la Prusia I3 (sachant que je possède 3 Vertex k8400 et 1 k8200, je ne suis donc pas totalement un débutant en réglage et utilisation d'imprimante 3D DIY)Merci - AurélienD5
Hello.I just get a I3 printer and just finished to build it but i've got a problem ... when i do a "go home", the head go to the right (on X axis) but the endstop is on the left on my printer, so it never stop ... the same for Z axis, when doing a "go home", the head go up on Z axis ! All is ok for Y axis.I don't understand how motor can be inverted, this is no way to make an error while wiring motors so i don't understand. can someone help me plz ?
Hello, thank you but the plug can't be reverted, this is a plastic part to fix the direction of the plug. But i finally find a way, i changed the firmware to change direction of motor and it is ok now.
HelloVery thorough post.I recently bought the same printer, and the instructions didnt show where the little green sensor on the back of the extruder hooks to the control board. Could you tell me where you hooked yours?Thanks.
Hey there,Great post. Could you share which setting in the config file re-enables the menu options like the EEPROM save?
Hi, thank you for posting this instruction which made everything easier, but I'm stuck on the mainboard and powering and I have 4 problems.First question is about the square fan connection. You had 2 wires, one negative and one positive, but mine has a plug attached to it, so I don't understand how to connect it since every instruction I find has 2 wires, not plug. Second question is about the nozzle head. It has 2 wires, which need to be connected with the mainboard, but they are both red coloured. How do I know which one to connect to the positive side and negative side? Third question is about wiring the mainboard with the DC power supply. There are 3 positive spots and 3 negative spots on DC power supply. Can I connect the positive wire in the first positive wire spot and the negative wire in the first negative wire spot, or it doesn't matter which one I use, as long as I have the negative wire in the negative spot and positive wire in the positive spot? Fourth and final question is about connecting the power cable to the DC power supply. There are 2 wires, blue and brown. Which one goes to the L and which one to the N under the AC input spot?Regards,Ingvar
Hi and please help if you can,I'm wondering if someone got's problem with the Extruder? I got my printer since two weeks and I'll never be able to print anything except somes filaments who didn't stick on the bed.My first problem is the Extruder. The filament stuck into the Nozzle after few seconds and stop extruding. See the attached pictures, the PLA's (yes I'm using the White PLA) overflow and "extrude" from anywhere other than the bed.In my picture, you will see a little filament. That's stop after few second of begining extruding. I've to pullout the Filament, cut about a inch of PLA and reinsert it into the PLA "crimper", pushing on the filament and I see it extrude. I start my print, nothing extrude!. I stop my print, try to push on the filament, nothing extrude. Again, I pullout the Filament, cut about a inch of PLA and reinsert it into the PLA "crimper", pushing on the filament and I see it extrude.Personaly, I dont know where to start. I've check all of the videos, read this assembly & nice guide I can't see what I missed. I'm at the point to replace the Nozzle/Heater and filament lock parts.This is my hardware parameters- I've test my PLA heated to 200, 210 and 220 degrees, same results. - I try print on 3M blue ribbon (heat bed at 40 degree MAX)- I've use Cura to print, mabe my parameters?One thing else, I check the width of extruded fillament with my vernier and it's arround 0.48mm. So that's mean "for me" my Nozzle it's more a 0.5mm than 0.4mm right?If someone have an idea, I'm willing to test and try.RegardsMartin
Have anybody done with auto bed levelling setup? I couldn't find detailed instruction(((
Even if glued, the frame will still move forwards. Instead, try to add spacers under the z motors and call me in the morning ;)
Got this printer, put it together no problem. However is anyone else having a serious heatbed issues? My heatbed takes an hour to reach 60c and then caps off there. I tried everything under all the forms. It appears the only real potential issue is that the power to the heatbed is ~12v but when I set the bed to warm up it drops to 7.5v. So it seems it is not getting enough voltage. The ohms seem right, re soldered the board, checked and reattached every wire,played with the software, with no change. The forms suggest upgrading the power supply, adding a new one, or relay but I should not *need* to do that to just get my bed up to temp.Everyone here has the same kit with the same heatbed and the same 12v power supply. How come your heat beds can get up to temp with the same parts and mine can't? Any suggestions?(Honestly, at this point, I would not mind if it did take an hour to reach 100c, then I could at least print something. :P )
Well, if the heatbed truly is irreparably broken, I'll just return it. they should not be sending me faulty parts anyways. Still, I'm not 100% that the heatbed itself was the problem and that a new heatbed won't have the same issue. Unfortunately, this is my first 3d printer and none of my friends have them so I have no spare printer parts to test with. I'm getting some PLA filament for Christmas so then I can a least start printing something while replacement bed is shipped around. (I only got the ABS with the printer itself)
Join 2 million + to receive instant DIY inspiration in your inbox.
Download our apps!
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.