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I've not encountered this particular problem. In the picture from the first person, it looks like the backlight resistor is not 220 ohms. It might be possible that the circuit is drawing too much current, so the LCD panel isn't able to properly initialize. Try removing the backlight resistor or that wire to ground, and see what happens after resetting the Arduino.
The .ino file is actually just a text file. Try changing the .ino to .txt or just open it with a text editor and copy and paste the text into a new Arduino project.
Some LCD panels don't have a backlight installed. It is the (often) trapezoidal shaped part immediately to the right of the panel. If yours does have the backlight installed, it could just be faulty. It's like any other LED, so if you at any point you connected it without the resistor, it could have broken because of too much current through it.
The easiest way to do this is to replace the switches with DPST (double-pole single throw) pushbutton switches. One pole would operate exactly as it does now. The other pole would connect an LED/resistor circuit.You can simulate this here: (https://circuits.io/circuits/3581159). I replaced the low C pushbutton with a DPST DIP switch and connected an LED and resistor to the other pole. In practice, you'd want a momentary switch (only closed as long as it's being pushed) instead of a flip switch. But this illustrates the point.
Here are the 400 programmed devices.
It may not be totally obvious from the pictures in the instructable, but the clip does hold onto the board. Here's a (blurry) photo of the clip being used to program one of the boards.
They are interactive badges for a conference last October with 400 participants. The badges allowed attendees to play games and encourage interaction. At some point soon I hope to write up an instructable about the badges themselves.
Pogo pin programming connectorView Instructable »
In order to get the appearance of motion correct, the strobe LEDs are only on about 1/200th of the time. This means that the LEDs that get used must be extremely bright to overcome the ambient light. The device does work in direct sunlight, but there's a "glow" around it due to the fact that in addition to the strobed "still" image, you are also seeing the blurred spinning. It's basically like reducing the contrast of an image.I considered using RGB LEDs to allow for color changing and funky things like interleaving multiple animations (the image simultaneously moving forward in red, but backward in blue, for example). The Cree XP-E LEDs are the brightest that I could find. The RGB equivalents are physically larger, which would have required everything to be scaled u...see more »In order to get the appearance of motion correct, the strobe LEDs are only on about 1/200th of the time. This means that the LEDs that get used must be extremely bright to overcome the ambient light. The device does work in direct sunlight, but there's a "glow" around it due to the fact that in addition to the strobed "still" image, you are also seeing the blurred spinning. It's basically like reducing the contrast of an image.I considered using RGB LEDs to allow for color changing and funky things like interleaving multiple animations (the image simultaneously moving forward in red, but backward in blue, for example). The Cree XP-E LEDs are the brightest that I could find. The RGB equivalents are physically larger, which would have required everything to be scaled up to support them, including tripling the number of MOSFET drivers. Still, it could be done!
The flickering of the video is due to a few factors. I've had this print on my desk for a while. It has been handled by many people and dropped a few times. A few of the spikes have broken off. Also, I had to make the video in a fairly unconventional way because the strobe duration is shorter than the frame capture duration of all cameras that I have available. This causes banding on the video.In answer to your question, though, yes precision is very important. It might be possible to make something with less fine detail that still works on FDM
I've never used an I2C module, but there are a couple of possibilities that I see here. It appears that you may have the row/column parameters swapped. According to this page (http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/LCDI2C), the # of rows should be the second parameter and the number of columns the third. Also, are you absolutely sure that the I2C address (the first parameter) is correct?
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Maalesef sorunu tamamen anlamıyorum. Ayrıca, Türkçe bilmiyorum. BareMinimum örnek programında olduğu gibi çok basit bir programı derleyebiliyor ve yükleyebiliyor musunuz?
I've no pactical experience with app inventor, so I can't help directly. How do you plan to send the button pushes to the Arduino?
You are very observant! You found the easter egg. If a second button is connected between PIN_AUTOPLAY and the normal button pin, when it is pressed and held, the hero automatically jumps at the correct time. It's the game cheat button!
That pin is connected to a second, secret "cheat" button.
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Sorry for not getting back to you sooner. There was a server problem preventing the gerber download. It's been fixed and should work now.
By timer, do you mean something to turn the lights on or off after a certain amount of time? That would be fairly easy to add to the code.
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There were temporarily problems with the download Gerber feature. It's been fixed and should work again now.
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