With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
Bringing new life to an old classic marantz stereo receiver with a class D amp board.
How to fix a classic American AM tabletop tube radio
How to fix a cassette tape.
reviving a WW2 dynamotor, how tube radios went mobile during the war
how to revive a first generation Olympic 447 portable transistor radio
Re-purposing an Antique Portable Radio Into a Hip Bluetooth Speaker
Low budget stereo amp from an ipod dock, reuse, recycle!
DIY rebuild of a Zippo lighter
Cassette Tape 1101 - an in depth look into this analog tape recording media
the ground to power isnt a big deal. these things were made to use ungrounded power source in the USA.does it happen with FM radio also? if yes, i would be looking for bad coupling capacitor or maybe failing transistor in audio path for that bad channel in the main preamp section.if the problem is only happening on phono, then i would be checking the problem channel in the phono preamp only. once again my first check would be bad coupling capacitor then maybe failing transistor. nice thing is the phono preamp is fairly simple circuit. you could just replace all electrolytics capacitors in that circuit with new ones of proper value and maybe catch the problem.
something else to check. have you cleaned the controls? there is a product called deoxit that is meant for cleaning electrical contacts. these old stereos will develop crusty connections that can cause signal to drop. get an account on tapeheads.net and post on solidstate stereo section. surely there will be pictures to show you how to do it.
Great article and such a gold mine for me! Have a Marantz 2215B and have realized its that - and not the gramophone (grounded to the receiver - but receiver itself is not truly grounded cause my sockets here have no ground) that is the problem.When I spin LPs, it works for a while - but then one channel always give up - and gets quiet. Even if I swop R/L RCAs its still same speaker that gets quiet. I can kickstart it again if I pull them both out and reconnect them (with the loud grounding sound until I connected them right). After that it works for a while again. Do you know what part that might be involved in this case?
how to revive an antique GE P780B lunchbox AM transistor radio from 1959
Very kewl instructable, kudos! FYI.. good old brown-paper-bag paper works well also for speaker repair, it's stiffer and more closely matches the tension in the cone.Thanks for the lesson :)
you can, nothing says you cant. i did it this way because i wanted to retain some of the functionality of the original on/off volume control. i also wanted to take advantage of a larger driver for fuller sound. many of these radios used 4" or larger speakers of which there are many modern options.
Why can't I just place the whole speaker as is in the radio case my back pops open easy and it fits nice and sounds great
Great article, cleaned up a old monster receiver Hitachi SR-2004. Cleaned the pots and switches, and plays nice but under further evaluation left side seems lacking in bass compared to right. Switched L/R source inputs, switched L/R speakers, still follows left side output of amp. Could this be a dry cap on the pre-amp section? Any thoughts or hints appreciated.
Great, thanks for the quick response. I'll open the beast up again and see what I can trace down.
to me it sounds most definitely like a bad electrolytic in the audio path. can be found by bridging a known good cap of same or slightly higher value across good cap and seeing if audio improves. watch polarity! when you find it might as well replace its counterpart on other channel.
Even if the tape mechanism is completely trashed and unusable, it's often worth buying these old units anyway. It isn't hard to convert them into nice speakers for your smart phone / MP3 player / tablet / etc - either 'wired' or 'Bluetooth'. And the unused tape slot is a nice place to keep accessories. Or even the phone or MP3 player itself.
Very useful instructable. I would only add "take a lot of pictures - before, during and after." Especially easy in the age of digital photography and invaluable when you discover you forgot to make as detailed a set of notes as you thought you had.
How To Clean a Cassette Recorder
this will require some detective work. you'll need a good magnifying lens. pull about an inch of tape out of the cassette and let it lay flat against edge of cassette almost is if it were in its normal position during playback. tape must not be folded over or flipped.in good light, closely inspect the cassette with a magnifying lens. you are hoping for visible wear in the tape that you can use to line up the piece that broke off. often times on thin tapes like MC the machine will impart slight stresses on the tape itself that can be found with a magnifying lens. you may also see wear pattern caused by the heads of the machine as they do drag across the tape in normal operation.micro cassette audio tape has magnetic oxide on one side and bare plastic on the other. its easy to figure out which side is the magnetic oxide layer with a magnifying lens but the problem is this wont tell you which way the tape traveled. you have a 50/50 chance of getting it spliced the right way if you just go by which side has the oxide and matching it to the tape in the cassette. worst case the section you spliced is backwards and you'll have to flip it.
Thanks for the info. Sadly I have a mini cassette with a special family moment that my kids pulled apart and I now have several pieces. How can I tell which side of the tape is the front?
Well, ignoring your aggressively rude tone for the momentStating facts is not rude at all, much less "aggressively rude".first of all, the Coleman fuel is dearomatized naphtha so it lacks a lot of the aromatics that make naphtha, in general, and Zippo lighter fluid, in particular, impart a disagreeable petroleum odor and taste when used to light tobacco products or charcoal briquettes. Zippo brand fluid says right on the can "low odor". I have two Zippos in front of me right now. One has Zippo fluid in it and the other has Coleman Camp Fuel in it. Just from opening the lids and smelling both of them, I guarantee no one could tell the difference in a blind test. The real difference is in how they burn, which I've already detailed.I have never experienced any unusual smoking or crackling from the flame produced in a lighter using Coleman fuel.Here is an audio recording I just made of my Zippo with Coleman Camp Fuel in it:http://vocaroo.com/i/s0he9kuJGCnqMake sure your volume is turned up and take note of the crackling. For comparison, here is a recording of my other Zippo with Zippo brand lighter fluid in it:http://vocaroo.com/i/s05dR8NRgmPMNote that there is no crackling at all, which indicates it is burning very cleanly.I tried Coleman Camp Fuel (brand new can of it) in one of my Zippos just the other day (which is why it still has some in there), and I've always used Zippo brand lighter fluid, so my experience with both types of fuel is, in all likelihood, more current than yours. This is relevant not only in the sense of current memories being more reliable than old memories, but also in that Zippo reformulated their fuel several years ago. The crackling and slight smoke from the Coleman fuel didn't really bother me in and of itself (though over time it would probably leave more soot on the wick and surrounding parts, due to burning less cleanly), but the first drag off my cigarette lit with the Coleman flame tasted bad, and the rest of the cigarette wasn't much better, so obviously I won't be using it again. I don't notice any bad taste from Zippo fluid; if I did, I wouldn't use it.
Why would the paint of a decorative emblem be covered under their lifetime warranty? Their trademarked motto is:It works or we fix it free.™The finish and decoration have nothing to do with whether or not the lighter works.
Coleman Camp Fuel works fine in a Zippo or any other wick-type lighter, but with regard to refinement, you have things backwards. Coleman Camp Fuel produces slight, but noticeable, smoke when burning (most noticeable if you light it, close the lid to snuff out the flame, and then immediately open the lid again, at which point you will see a small puff of smoke), and you can also hear crackling from the flame. Both of these things indicate impurities. Zippo-brand lighter fluid does not produce any noticeable smoke and it does not crackle when burning. On top of that, a Coleman Camp Fuel flame imparts a noticeable flavor to my cigarettes (not good), while a Zippo fluid flame doesn't, which also indicates that Zippo fluid burns cleaner.
<<<But I don't understand how you can consider the Zippo a well engineered design. It really isn't.>>>Yes, it clearly is. Anything that does what it's supposed to do and generally lasts a lifetime (or longer) is well-engineered. Also, the Zippo uses better quality (and more expensive) materials than the Imco Triplex. The Zippo has a stainless steel insert and a brass case, both of which are very corrosion resistant. The Imcos I've seen are made out of chrome-plated mild steel and aluminum, and if the chrome gets damaged, they will rust (I don't know if they made stainless steel versions or not). The Zippo is also a simple, smooth geometric shape and is more compact, thus it rides better in your pocket, and even fits perfectly in that small 5th pocket of jeans ("watch pocket"). On top of that, the smooth, flat sides make for a nice "canvas" for decoration, if so desired.<<<The location of the hinge makes it difficult to open the lid one-handed, especially for man-sized hands. You have to then manually turn the flint wheel to light it.>>>Flicking a Zippo lid open with your thumb and then swiping your thumb down against the flint wheel isn't even remotely difficult. It is a fast, intuitive, and natural motion. Someone would have to be incredibly uncoordinated in order to have any difficulties with it.<<<The Triplex is in the shape of a cylinder and has a tight-fitting cap that prevents evaporation of the lighter fluid.>>>No, it doesn't prevent evaporation. They are more sealed than a Zippo, but they are not perfectly sealed, and a perfect seal is the only thing which can flat-out prevent evaporation. <<<Second it is fully automatic and lights first time every time, one-handed, with a flick of the thumb lever.>>>No, they do not light the first time, every time. In fact, at least one of the videos you linked to shows a failure to light at the 1:14 mark (I say "at least one" because that's the only one I watched):Despite of the fact that so many people like to proclaim that their favorite lighter lights "first time, every time", in my experience, there's no such thing as a lighter that lights "first time, every time". There are however, plenty of lighters that light "first time, most of the time", Zippos included (as long as you don't overfill them).
What do you mean, "So much for the lifetime warranty"? He had the emblem repainted. The finish (chrome, paint, etc.) and decoration (logos, emblems, etc.) of a Zippo are not, and have never been, covered by the warranty, as those are cosmetic things, not functional things. Hinge repairs are covered by the warranty, and if that was all he'd had done, it would have been free, as usual.
This stuff is great for cleaning old cassette tapes. Works for me anyway!Scotch Cassette Deck Head Cleaner Buff Strip Cleaning System 3M
What about a tape that was eaten by a cassette player and parts of the tape got wrinkled? Is there anyway to smooth them back out for so that they are playable?
I found that my boxes of tubes, mostly nos, all have the labels printed on the glass. look at the tube, watch how the light reflects off it even though the paint may be gone you may see a shine ghost of the printed label. Failing this try looking at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/ for the schematic that will have the tubes labeled, it is possible some of the tubes were re-arranged wrong, or replaced with something that doesn't belong(this is the only tube Grandpa had and it fits the socket, Bingo. WRONG) Remember when repairing something, the last person who had it couldn't fix it, don't trust their work.for
I found that my boxes of tubes, mostly nos, all have the labels printed on the glass. look at the tube, watch how the light reflects off it even though the paint may be gone you may see a shine ghost of the printed label. Failing this try looking at http://www.nostalgiaair.org/ for the schematic that will have the tubes labeled, it is possible some of the tubes were re-arranged wrong, or replaced with something that doesn't belong(this is the only tube Grandpa had and it fits the socket, Bingo. WRONG) Remember when repairing something, the last person who had it couldn't fix it, don't trust their work.
forgot to mention: it was a welded cassette with a midway snapped tape that had gotten stuck inside the cassette.
Thank you, great guide! And so many memories of our youth!
Just curious... why not send them in? They will fix them for free, forever.
oops--A is for filaments or heaters, low voltage typ 1.5V to 6V, usually able to supply more current than the other sections; B is the plate supply much higher voltage than A, typ 22.5 to 135V; C is the negative grid bias usually 1.5 to 15V doesn't need to supply much (if any) current.The newest radios I can think of that use A,B,(C?) batteries are the pre-solid state Zenith Trans Oceanic models. ISR the batteries were built into a single block integrating A,B, and C together. As far as exchanging A and B batteries-- some tube-type hearing aids had the same shape and size separate A (1.5V) and B (15 or 22.5V) batteries. Needless to say, ignoring the warnings and exchanging these batteries causes the normally almost invisible filaments to light up brightly, but only for a few seconds, before burning out. Batteries from these old days were made from series connected multiples of 1.5V cells-- look inside a 9V battery for a contemporary example. You will find either stack shaped cells, or one or two brands use tiny quad-A (AAAA) cells.
Join 2 million + to receive instant DIY inspiration in your inbox.
Download our apps!
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.