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Fix a fried Arduino Mega
Thanks for the pointers. My Mega 2560 has a different regulator than yours. Easy enough, and cheap enough. I just purchased fifty AMS1117 5.0 regulators for $5.40 shipped.
Thanks for the response, but I found a video showing how to check the VR, its definitely cooked. I sent pics to Arduino to see if the board was genuine, but its not, just an excellent copy, right down to the gold chip. I bit the bullet and bought a 100% genuine Arduino, flashed the printer config, and plugged it in. It all worked perfectly.I will see about repairing the Chinese one, as a spare is always handy to have. - BristolA
BristolA,If you have a multimeter, check if you're getting 5V on the output pin of the voltage regulator before bothering. It's a difficult job to replace it in any case so doing so unnecessarily will only lead to further frustration.My popped voltage regulator didn't really look fried, the only suspicious thing was that I couldn't really read the letter/number markings on it, but then I wasn't really sure if I could prior to the frying incident. Visual inspection is not very telling with tiny electronics components, you really need to test it with a multimeter.The biggest problem I see with getting a new voltage regulator soldered on to the existing pins is simply getting it to sit flat/straight enough to do so on an uneven surface; it's problematic enough to do so once the pads are smoothed out. Similarly, those existing pin fragments are going to slip once you heat them with a new voltage regulator sitting on top, possibly leading to a short. I have to suggest trying, as I say below, to sweep the pin fragments off after snipping the small one and cracking the bigger back plate by repeatedly bending it up and down.Secondarily, you may not get a really solid solder connection with the old pin fragment there. It could then work for a time, but may come loose if your Arduino is subject to any amount of bumping around. In my case I use it in my car, so a very hostile environment for anything that isn't bolted down really well!Any Lx1117x50... should be just fine.Good luck with it. - timekiller_9
I figured you'd have looked elsewhere by now, but I thought maybe others might benefit from the feedback. Heck, I ended up here just looking for ideas about why my Mega was fried.You should try to repair the cooked board. It's good practice and worst that can happen is that it's still toast and ends up getting tossed anyway.Even though it's a knock-off, I'm somewhat surprised that the voltage regulator went out if the input voltage was within reasonable tolerance. You might actually be better off to try to repair the board, use that as your primary again, and see if your device fries the voltage regulator again. If it does, I'd say there's a good chance you're going to fry a genuine Arduino too!Best of luck with it going forward. - timekiller_9
My 2650 is used in a 3D printer. A few days ago it decided to run the set up process before each print and then stop dead as soon as it got to the Gcode for the print itself. After replacing all of the plugs and wiring I discovered that if I printed from a stone cold printer, it would print. If I tried to print from a warm printer, eg print two successive items, then it would hang.I have just discovered this article and I am now wondering if it is the VR that is causing the problem. It's either that or a cold solder joint somewhere, but I have been over my 2650 and my Ramps boards with a magnifying glass, nothing visible that looks bad.I am wondering whether I can simply snip off the original VR and solder a new to the old legs that can remain in the board. It would make an awkward job a lot easier. I can get hold of LD1117S50TR's, so if the pinout is correct, would this be the way to go?
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