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Would this work with mosfets instead of BJTs?
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That's an interesting idea. However I think your circuit would drain battery very quickly when the ambient is bright? Since it keeps Q3 continuously on when the sensor is lit.
I made it man. Thanks
Sure! Here's the schematic.
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That is great!I think this is something that many people are interested in (connecting more LEDs). I would be really nice if you can share the schematic.
Kapton tape worked like a charm. I didn't smell anything nasty when I fired up the oven for the first time. Maybe I'll try the fan controller next -- but you know what would be kinda cool? A light.
Nice work!It took me some time to figure out where in the design 350mA magic number came from. I feel like this should be mentioned in the technical description. Here's where I think it's from. But I'm not certain.The voltage drop of D1 is roughly 0.7V (you can research why, but that's just typical for that kind of diode), which means that the voltage across R2 + VR1 + R3 to reach ground is also 0.7V. D1 conducts to ground when more than 0.7V are applied by the source, but that current goes through a 4.7k resistance though, so roughly 4mA even for a 20V source).If the VR1 potentiometer's wiper is on the least resistant setting, 0 Ohm, then you have 10k ohm of resistance before the comparator, and 11kOhm after it, which means that the comparator is sensing roughly 52% (11k / 21k) of the 0.7V, so 367mV. When it is turned the other way, it will be sensing 1k/21k * 0.7V = 33mV. (The description says the ratio is 1:11 but maybe I'm wiring it differently).Let's assume that the comparator senses 367mV on the "-" side. Now, on the other end of the circuit, after going through the LEDs, the great majority of the current has to go through R10 (R11 is not there in the 350mA configuration). U=RI, and R is 1 Ohm. Which means that for the comparator to trip, the current has to pass over 367mA. There goes the connection between the voltage and current.
This is so awesome I actually built this on my own board(s). Twice. The first time I was using the leftover wires from the components as bridges to other components. This way if you make a mistake, it's a real pain to get it out. So I threw it out and started building the second one. This time, I used thick solder drops on the PCB to bridge nearby components, and bridge wire to join components that are further apart. After fixing some minor mistakes all three color finally started to flash. What a relief!Because I had an RGB LED strip laying around, and after some modifications to the circuit using TIP31 transistors I managed to light the strip and the little leds at the same time. I mounted the heatsink to the red channel because for whatever reason it gets the hottest. Basically if you look to the supplied circuit, I connected the Q4, Q6 and Q8 emitters to TIP31's base. My strip is common cathode(1 positive and 3 negative connections for independent colors), cathodes connect to TIP31's collectors. TIP31's emitters connect to ground. That's it. Really simple. There are some photos below.
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