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can we get more pictures of the final product... this is amazing!!!
he could be buddhist... but you just have to ask some times.its just a question.
GREAT WRITE UP!!! I was literally in the middle of doing a write up like this and yours popped up in my email.I want to suggest 2 things to you1. It is better to go with a prime lens that is less than 2 for an f-stop (which the f stop isn't a speed its a size ratio to the diameter of the open of the optical area for the lens) The reason why I suggest less then 2 is because it allows more light on to the CCD or CMOS. Which brings me to the next thing.2. You do not want to do more than about 15 to 18 seconds. Any more than that and you can see the actual star movements. If you zoom in on your large image you will see that the stars are not round... they are elongated. thats also why i suggest something with a 1.8 or 1.4 fstop. Most prime lenses have these options.I have found the best option is either a larger lens or a larger F-stop.NOW... if you are doing a timelapse of these long exposures... you can easily do it with the settings you are using. Because the frames will blend together easier. if you have any questions on what i am saying... hit me up. I used to teach people photography during the summer when a few years ago.
for your camera this is a better lens to try using ... Olympus 25mm f1.8 Interchangeable LensIt will allow you to take shorter shots and receive more light. Plus there is no telephoto adjusting and you can just set the focus on infinite, and you will be good.most of the stuff i do is like that... even the time-lapse stuff i do with starshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANswIw9bKoc
Valentines Day Cake!!! (can be used for anniversary's or proposals)
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