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How important is the orifice size hole? I've tried to do some quick reading and can't find anything definite. Lowe's did not have a #57 bit, the smallest bits they had that I could find were 1/16" which I have plenty of at home. I could order from Amazon, but don't feel like waiting. Thinking maybe I'll just try a 1/16" orifice and if it's not working well order a bit and just buy another short section of brass pipe.
Yes it is, otherwise the burner doesn't develop enough vacuum in the tube to draw enough air in for complete combustion, and also the flame will not burn very hot because the fuel/air mixture isn't right.
how to build a gas forge burner
How to Build a Forge (Gas)
How to Build a Forge
How to build a better forge
Heat Treating Knives
Is the flared end needed for it to work correctly?
Im haven't trouble getting this to have a flame come out of the end of the tube, is the flared end needed for it to work correctly?
Put wd40 on it and scrub it off with sandpaper ij the direction that you want your grain
If you can't get black pipe, you can throw the gal fittings into acid (even vinegar) and it will eat the zinc off. Once it stops bubbling, the zinc is gone, and heating should present no problems. (The flare at the gas injection end should never get hot enough to cause zinc fumes, due to the air flowing over it and being a long way from the flame)
It's really hard to see the color in daylight - our forge is pretty dim so we can see it pretty well. But even then, I don't usually trust my eyes for the quench. To make sure it's ready, you can get a magnet and hold the blade near it. If it's not attracted to the magnet, you've reached the right temperature. Just be careful - if any part of you gets between the blade and magnet, you can get a red hot knife stuck to your finger!
Just so you know, quenching and tempering have little to no effect on mild steel. You will still see the color appear from the tempering process, but there isn't enough carbon present for the metal to harden properly. As for the material you've been using, in my experience, anything that cuts is usually at least medium steel - so you're good there. Lawn mower blades are highly prized junk steel! If you want to go all out (affordably) get some leaf spring from a junkyard. Most of the swords I've made started as leaf or coil spring. It's good stuff. Thanks for the instructable!
However, MAPP, with the proper setup, will burn hotter, esp. if you have an oxygen feed.
The blowtorch is a form of forced air intake. It works similar to an airbrush. Instead of pressurized air it's pressurized gas, and instead of paint it siphons in air.
Nothing wrong with the ol' coffee can. I repurposed mine for a lead smelter.
It does heat faster with less fuel, but it has no carbon content in the gas, so the wood/coal/coke would be ideal, a slow heat is less stress on the metal, and improves the form, while solid fuel will increase the carbon content over time. Also slow cooling in coal/coke powder will harden and increase the carbon content.
Quenching should be done when the steel reaches a bright red colour, 800-900 fahrenheit. Forging and shaping the steal is done at a bright yellow/orange colour, 1700-2100 fahrenheit. quenching at temperatures over 800-900 degrees can result in a brittle blade and/or your blade could warp or crack.
How to Make a Knife pt 1
Quenching and Tempering refer to two specific heat treating processes. It seems like you may not have tempered 100% correctly. Quenching is much easier, and only requires that the metal reach Austenizing temperatures and then is rapidly cooled. Tempering on the other hand, is much more specific. It requires a quenched material, quenching being as described above, be taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature of that specific alloy (normally 1100-1300) and held for 1 hour per inch of material. It is then cooled in the furnace, dropping temperatures roughly 400 degrees per hour (again, depending on the alloy) down to 700 or 800 degrees (again, depending on the alloy) and then air cooled. Higher alloys require controlled cooling to much cooler temperatures, as they commonly are more suseptible to diffusion (oxidation basically) at lower temperatures. Hope this helped. I fear they use their heat treating process labels loosely around here.
This has to do with the metal you are using specifically. At higher temperatures, metal, especially carbon steel, oxidizes at higher rates. With the specific "A" number of your metal, it seems to have few deoxidizers, meaning it will oxidize in the air quicker than if it had increased levels of Silicon, Aluminum, or Manganese. Try a different metal, and spend a little extra to get some good stuff if you want solid results.
This is actually misleading and has to do with their use of "Tempering". Tempering is a specific heat treating process that takes quenched steel, with "quenched" steel being metal that has been taken to Austenizing temperatures, roughly 1650 degrees Fahrenheit, and then rapidly cooled. Once that has been accomplished, the metal is then taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature, roughly 1100-1300 for 1 hour per inch of material. IE 1" material would be kept at that temperature for 1 hour. It is then furnace cooled, dropping roughly 400 degrees per hour to 700 or 800 degrees and then air cooled. Varying the temperatures, while obeying the two critical temperatures and time constraints, should give you an ideal "temper".
Tom!! Seriously, thank you.I've had great difficulty with other burners due to lack in clarity of parts & such, this will help lots.Cheers!
I thought the same thing that being outside would be enough. This is also what my friend thought. Unbeknownst to him He welded on galvanized & it swelled his eyes shut lolIn all seriousness, his eyes were swollen shut for 6 hours!
I just heat treated and tempered my blade to brown/straw as you showed here, but the edge was still too fragile and the tip broke. So my question is: Is possible to heat it too hot before quenching? Blade was almost bright orange in the daylight when I quenched it. And I´m 100% sure I did tempering correctly. Please help me so I can avoid this in the future.
Where did you find your un-galvanized pipe? I am having some trouble across the ditch here
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