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That's a great idea! I'm just getting into smart home stuff actually. I will have to do something like this in the future.
It looks great! I like how you attached the cord with the crimp to 1/2 npt adapter.
Dremel Belt Sander Attachment
Thank you! I'm glad I've given you some ideas for your project. That's what I was going for. Also, thank you for your comments on "common sense." It really does come down to that anytime you are dealing with electricity - even when using commercially available products such as power strips.
Thanks for the link. The high price was the one thing I didn't like about the Leviton outlet I used.
I'm glad you were inspired - and not scared off by this idea.
Haha. Yea, I try to cover my basis, but there are always holes in my thinking. The feedback is good though, as we all can learn something.
The USB outlet that I used is a commercial product by Leviton, which contains both a step-down transformer and rectifier to convert the 120V AC to 5V DC. Similar to the USB boxes, which come with nearly all USB-powered devices now days.
Agreed! I've already fixed that. The conduit box came with some small plastic plugs, which I forgot to paint black with the box. I went ahead and finished up the Instructable and video before I got them painted and installed.
That's an excellent idea! I hadn't actually thought of that. That being said, I still wouldn't have done that for my application as I didn't want a hole down through the shelf I was planning on mounting it to.
Thanks! I'm really not sure either. However, since I am not in-the-wall and I'm using a UL listed replacement cord rated up to the load of the wall circuits, I think it's probably ok.
Thanks! I'm glad you like it. You could even add switches to turn specific tools on and off if you liked.
Thanks for sharing and nice story :-) I assumed others had done similar things as I too have found that they are super useful!
I think I will. When I painted the box I forgot to paint the plugs that came with it, which is why I left them off for now. I just need to turn them black.
Natural wood diner table LED lamp
Custom Anywhere OutletView Instructable »
Thanks for the suggestions. Most likely I will end up changing the mounting configuration in the future so I'll keep your ideas in mind.
I haven't. I'll have to check it out. Thanks!
Thanks. One day I hope to have more space - and workbenches as well :-)
And that top is beautiful btw.
Thanks! I'm glad you're sufficiently inspired :-)
Thanks for the comment! I've been looking into this and will try to update the files in the future. Right now I'm using sketchup make (the free version), which doesn't really give you other exporting options. I will have to run the files through another program to convert them as I don't really want to spend $700 to upgrade to the pro version.
Those are nice looking hinges! I probably would have used something like this, but I was concerned that they might not swing out far enough to keep the door from hitting the "frame" (in this case the 4x4's). My doors were an inch thick. I'll keep these in mind for next time though. Thanks for the tip!
These are beautiful! Excellent job.
Wooden Bar Clamps
Thanks! I can use all the votes I can get.
Haha. I didn't notice that. It's not a very generic face either - more like something Picasso would have drawn.
Outdoor Workbench with Inte...View Instructable »
Congratulations on winning! I thought you might. :-)
Thanks for the feedback. This is my plan going forward. I'll be sure to show you guys what I eventually come up with.
I apologize for this taking so long, but here is a cross-sectional drawing of the side of the brake. Hopefully this helps :-)
Add Headphone Jack to an iP...View Instructable »
That's a great idea! If I have issues I'll try that.
Nice solution! You're probably right that we could have gotten away with just 1 baseboard. I'll have to keep this in mind for next time.
Good point. Years ago I would use a metal shop-vac to clean up around a CNC router. That thing would throw off 1" arcs! And as much as I would try to keep it away from the router - sometimes it would hit it and knock it offline and I would need to restart it. I'm thinking I won't have a huge issue as the baseboard should be grounded well and the shield is sitting directly on that, but I suppose there is always that potential.
Baseboard Heat Shield / Chimney
Baseboard Heat Shield / Chi...View Instructable »
Haha. Your last comment made me laugh. I think you're probably right on there not being much improvement - and actually I could see the foils slowing it down a bit. I think it would take some tuning to make sure it lifted out of the water, but not too far out of the water at speed.
Yea, I've been thinking of a "fixed" adjustable rudder that would counteract any turning inherent to the boat. Basically a trim adjustment. I never really thought about the function of sailboat rudders that much, but your explanation makes a lot of sense.
Point well taken on the fins. I'm planning on a rudder-type structure back there. I too am hesitant to put the engines up in the air as I know that too much hold-down force is negative as well. We've pushed many boats under the water.
Thanks for all the ideas and that's no problem with the "traffic". I like the catamaran btw. It looks really neat, fun, and fast! I've been a bit hesitant to have the engine adjustable, but you're making me reconsider it. Actually, given all your comments I'm tempted to make a more robust boat that has adjustments all over it for different things - wings, rudders, engine, etc. Then I can really tune things to get it just right. Once again, thanks for all the ideas and we will do this again, but it might have to wait for next year. The lakes will ice over before too long - although that would be another interesting application for a rocket "boat".
Most hobby shops will have rocket engines up to a size E. Stores like Walmart will typically have up to a size C. I purchased size D12-0 like these: http://amzn.to/2eiunwX from a local hobby shop. Have fun! :-)
I'll keep that in mind. It's kinda what I was trying to do on the keels. I just underestimated the density of water.
Thank you! It would be amazing if I could actually get the boat to ride on hydrofoils - and I agree that weight would probably help with getting that setup correctly. I was just thinking of adding foils to keep the boat on the water - an inverted foil, but now you have me thinking about using an actual hydrofoil! Check back in the future to see what I end up doing :-)
Thanks! I had fun doing it. I'm considering wings to help solve the downdraft issue. We'll see how it goes.
I 100% agree with you assessment on the power/weight ratio! I believe the top speed isn't really an issue as this has been solved before in RC boats, etc. It's really that initially high thrust that's probably the most problematic. Crazy story btw. :-)
I imagine there is, but I just bought off-the-shelf Estes rocket engines. Ultimately I would like to make a liquid fueled engine that could be throttled, but that will take a bit of work.
Good idea. I hadn't really considered a horizontal flat plane under the water. That would probably work though as long as it was long enough. Thanks for the idea!
Thanks! The boat itself was pretty inexpensive. I did buy the wood at a hobby shop so it wasn't cheap, but I'd say total wood expenses were probably around $12 or so. The tube was around $4 I think and the aluminum was somewhere around $5. Obviously, you could do it for less with any spare parts you might have lying around. The expensive part is the engines. I used D12-0 engines, which were $11 for a 2-pack - and I used 2 engines for each run. Ideally you could maybe make your own engines - perhaps like this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12fR9neVnS8 Good luck making!
Haha. Thanks! I've been told this more than once. I was actually debating on how it was pronounced when I put the video together, but I got some poor information from google advising me that it was bass like the instrument.
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