Tell us about yourself!
solo cuenta el config.h en la carpeta grbl dentro libraries
Es el COREXY que tiene que estar sin comentar pero me parece que no has conesguido cargar la versión sin comentar.
There may be groups inside groups that might need more than one ungrouping operation.
The plugin I posted works with 4xiDraw as it replaces the laser on/off commands by pen down/up commands.
Hi, I do not think changes on GRBL version are making a difference for the job. At any rate, you need to port the changes so the servo works (as stock GRBL spindle control does not work with a servo). I have not made any changes to my machine so far, but I can see that smooth bars could be fixed with screws instead of superglue.
Sure you can do that too. Other people use a third stepper for the pen up and down as Z-axis.
What you want to do is beyond the current capabilities of the firmware I use (GRBL assumes drivers with STEP and DIRECTION drivers. L298 won't work like that, so you will need to figure out a firmware that can use it).Wiring is like this https://okelectronic.wordpress.com/2015/10/02/diy-cscnc-5-connecting-all-grbl-linistepper-limit-switches/
hatchfill is what I was about to suggest. other than that I do not know what else you could do.
No, I do not think so.
Not in a way I am aware of.
Use Torsten's firmware as it is an adaptation of the original AxiDraw plugin.
try this other tool for vectorising http://online.rapidresizer.com/tracer.php
no idea but I would guess it does not.
Great job Miguel.bi, and thanks a lot for sharing it.
That is going to be great. Thanks.
Thanks and congrats on your working unit.
I have only used 1.8º but I cannot think of a reason of why 0.9º won't work.
I would say better than 0.2mm but math can fool you into thinking you can do much better. On the other hand, using a single belt for the two axis can make repetitivity poor unless you manage to get a very rigid structure. I won't use this for any high precision operation.
That piece of information I did not know. Thanks for sharing it.
SVG coordinates (down is Y+) work opposite of cartesian coordinates (down is Y-) https://www.sarasoueidan.com/blog/svg-coordinate-systems/Depending on your plugin used that is kept or flipped. If your image is not right but the mirror image then you can flip it on Inkscape before printing it. For me, home is bottom left corner for my paper page but top left corner for inkscape.
45 degree rotation is usually due to not having enabled COREXY on GRBL firmware.
My version should not need any editing as it is already configured properly.
if you use stock GRBL instead of the one I linked here do not expect the servo to work.
you may want to read how they do it here https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Home/Limit_Switchesbut you only would use end-stops for X and Y axis
you can use this link to drag and drop the gcode file and view it on your browser. AFAIK files uploaded are complete.
Only one wired is needed (as negative wire is already connected on another pin). Failure to have this connection may sometimes end up with a burned Arduino. The soldered wire will bring 12V from Vin on the Arduino to the CNC shield (to power motor drivers). Power is only applied to the Arduino power jack input.
the missing link http://chilipeppr.com/jpadie
Enhorabuena. No he probado la extensión, si tienes dudas concretas quizá le puedas preguntar al autor. Normalmente para que python use el serie se require la instalación de pyserial.
do your motors move smoothly without the belt? if so, is the belt the same pitch as the pulleys? if so, can you move the carriage by hand smoothly?
Have you placed the jumpers for setting motors to 16x microstepping?
you may want to read this https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9in particular $130, $131, $132 – [X,Y,Z] Max travel, mm
Verifica que el CNCshield no esté defectuoso y que los pines de dirección no estén cortocircuitados a masa.
Thanks a lot for a very informative post. I am sure many other readers will find it very useful too.
I assume you have enabled homing, set $22=0
Aunque entiendo que es correcto si con $3 si que cambia el sentido de avance ...
Hi Tamer, it is correct. Z axis is not used here. Pen up and down are controlled with M3 and M5 commands
It is running on OSX 64-bit and on Linux 64-bit so I guess it should work in 64bit WIndows.
Yours is quite larger than mine. I have not experienced such a problem but I guess you may reduce it by making the servo slower and/or reducing the moving mass of the pen and pen carriage.
Great to know. I assume it is Torsten's code. His github is posted so you can create an issue for him in there.
Yo sólo estoy usando coordenadas positivas. Quizá te ayude https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Frequently-Asked-Questions
Konstantin did a pretty good job (though he made some changes to the design too) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qanuOqAqHyo
there is a picture of the wiring. If you need the cncshield circuit you can get it here https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/60-428/s2017/ref/text/resrc/cnc-shield.html
The new plugin that connects to the AxiDraw I have not yet tested it so I cannot help you there. You can connect to the AxiDraw using putty or Arduino Serial Monitor to issue commands to the board and test its behavior.
It seems there is a short in your supply. Try removing the servo connection to see if you Arduino responds again. If not, I am afraid it has been somehow damaged. As for the right connection follow the info provided by your servo vendor. Maybe they are using other colors I do not mention or even worse, they are using them in a different way. And try to figure out the servo wiring just using Arduino Sweep example without the CNCshield.
I reckon Step 4 covers that with text and picture. Is there any problem with the info I provided there?
Are you powering the Arduino with an external power supply? Powering it through the Arduino power jack?
Then I would look for a short in the CNCShield PCB. Check whether or not there is continuity from D11 to Z+ on the shield. Then check the same to +5V or GND ...
330mm is ok. Locking nuts are ok but more expensive and difficult to tighten.
If one motor works ok and when you add the second one both do not work I think it is a power supply problem. Check your supply voltage then.
I have not yet tested but Torsten's is most likely the better choice (print directly from Inkscape, no need for another software).
I reckon you should first use one of the sample gcode files. Once these work for you you know the machine is working ok. https://www.youmagine.com/documents/41420/download
that is the way I have it
It might work but I do not recommend anything less than 2A.
if rotating well in one direction usually means driver is ok. is the other direction harder to move?
this is to set the driver to 16x microstepping so motors turn smoothly
VIbrating motors means only only one coils is energized (or both are energized the wrong way). Posible causes:1) poor connections (check for wires are well connected)2) broken driver (never connect or disconnect motor wires with the power on)3) incorrect wiring (are you sure each coil ends go to adjacent pins?)
Servo is completely independent and unrelated to stepper operation. Check you connections.
The link provided above does contain pictures of the jumpers besides a detailed explanation of the purpose of the jumpers. You need three jumpers per driver and they have to be as in the picture
did you populate the three jumpers below each pololu driver board on CNCshield?
try this online tracer http://online.rapidresizer.com/tracer.php
Many people having problem with servo because the only power Arduino gets is from the USB. If you follow the wiring I propose the 12V supply go to Arduino power jack. Does this help?
I provided the full CAD so anyone can see how all it is assembled and I did that on a platform that requires you install nothing (unless using a laptop or iphone) as it works on the browsers https://cad.onshape.com/documents/236f46681d1cbe31f6d52db0/w/5948c0b4f86507971afed68c
Not one that I am aware of.
I am not aware of a way of doing that when vectorizing a bitmap, maybe other readers can chime in.
No need of gears or extra parts. Lever should push carriage up on pen up movements.
Wow, that is fantastic news. I am sure people will love it.Thanks a lot Torsten!!If you do not mind I will post the link on the instructable.
You can use Egg Bot's plugin for hatching.
You can easily mirror it on Inkscape
I guess you mean where you can change the pen up and down values (angles): That can be done in the plug-in dialog.
You are right, it is a bit confusing as different standards call for different locations for (0,0). So I have moved my own home location depending on the toolset I was using at the time. If I reckon correctly for Monalisa coordinates to work well you need to position the pen farthest from Arduino board (in both axis).Initial position (aka home) can be automated with the use of end-stops but I am not sure if power-up can trigger it (I think it cannot). But it definitely could be included in your g-code file.
This is usually happenning as COREXY is not enabled in the firmware (it is on my linked firmware though). Maybe you are doing something wrong with the uploading/compiling process or you already have grbl installed in your libraries and it is interfering with mine (if so remove grbl from your libraries folder).
I already told you how to change the values, by replacing the M3/M5 commands by the proper values using M3 S strings.That said, please remember the splines on the servo shaft allow you to have many different attachment angles for the arm, so maybe you can just rotate the arm till it works ok without changing the angle values.
I use Arduino UNO not a nano but they both feature the same processor with the same memory size. I have just tested nano targer with Arduino 1.6.7 and there is no issue, 96% of program memory used.
I do not think so as LM8UUs come with some grease of their own.
yes, F stands for flange, in our case flanges help to keep the belt on the bearing.
You need two of them, mounted with the flange oposite to each other and 6mm witdh belt.
and an M3 washer in between the two bearings.
asked and replied in the comments below
Es un soporte de motor más alto, que reemplaza al otro más bajo.
I guess you can but you will need to find a software solution that works for you with that hardware.
That is odd, can you try M3 instead of M03? Are XY moves working ok?
servo motor will certainly require some extension to its wires, these do not need to be clustered together.
The "smiling face" part is mounted upside-down in yours. Servo arm lever would it up when mounted right.
Deberías fe partir de un gráfico vectorial. No de una imagen.
Gracias.Todo depende de cómo hayas creado el archivo gráfico. En Inkscape puedes unir varios trayectos para que sean uno sólo.
Pololu can be mounted in two ways, if connected upsisde down it might send 12V to the Arduino and kill it (just a guess).
Hi, The way apply power makes sure Arduino is always powered when motors are powered and it does so in a way wrong polarity is ruled out. On top of that, it helps if you plan on using it without USB (which I did through a Bluetooth adaptor). Are you powering the SG90 with 5v? Mine does not get hot but it gets warm with use.From the two screw terminals one is GND and is shared with Arduino. The other is 12-30V and it is independent. I use 12V for my shield and and send the 12V from the Arduino Vin pin to the shield with the soldered cable I mentioned.Powering the shield and not the Arduino may be a bad thing when you connect the USB.
You should have a look a the issues on grbl master github repo. You may find some problems and solutions there.
Not easy as GRBL uses up most of available code space. You may want to got GRBL github though.