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Great write up, I am sure it will help other users facing similar problems. Thanks a lot for your contribution AlexD303.
Hi,I reckon Torsten's extension is the way to in terms of easy to use. It does require you instal pyserial, but other than that it is working great in my computer. M80 is an indication you are not using the code I linked https://github.com/misan/laser-gcode-exporter-inkscape-plugin/blob/master/turnkeylaser.py#L127 but maybe the original.
you can upload your video to youtube and send me a link like this message
I have no idea how that can happen.
There is an inkscape plugin I have not used but I have linked that would allow you to do that.
The belts have teeth so they cannot slip unless there is no tension at all on the belt system. I think your problem may be the motor is skipping steps, maybe this motor needs a bit more current to overcome the force needed to move the carriage. Check that both carriagwes move smoothly.
I guess so, but the current pen carriage is not suitable for that. A redesign would be needed (though you may use a single servo with three positions; left pen down, all pens up, right pen down). Sounds interesting.
You can change config parameters using Arduino's Serial Monitor.
I can't say with the available information. Is your power supply working?
most common cause of servo not working is incorrect wiring.
Arduino power jack
12V 2A is what I use and recommend. 12V 6A will work too (it is just more expensive).
We are talking about regulated power supplies that have a small (<100mV ripple). I have not tested a non-regulated power supply bit it might work.
my guess is that vibrating stepper driver is burned, try swapping them, to see if the good motor is now vibrating, if it is, replace that stepstick
Yes, it does. However, I am not using them for simplicity (it is assumed the user will move the machine to the home position by hand before starting a drawing).
I am afraid I do not know which is the criteria you may use to determine which one is a better plotter.
Have a look at the image: https://cdn.instructables.com/FW5/V25P/J08EBY5K/FW5V25PJ08EBY5K.LARGE.jpg
I think 0.1mm is the best resolution you can get (that would be 254 dpi)
Do my sample files work well for you? (Mostl Monalisa https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1444216/#files )
Something is acting as a limit. I do not know what that is.
Next thing to check is whether or not your scale is correct. If not, the 300x300 limit may still be limiting your travel.
Hi AdamK259,Please note GRBL has a way to limit the travel, for example:$130=225.000 (x max travel, mm) $131=125.000 (y max travel, mm)Is it possible yours is limiting the Y axis travel so you do not get below that point. Have a look at other config options here https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Configuring-Grbl-v0.9
It seems there is something missing. Are you using 0.92 version of Inkscape?
I guess there is a problem on the installation of the Inkscape plug-in that will create the gcode.
Installation instructions are here https://github.com/misan/laser-gcode-exporter-inks...alternatively you can try this other plug-in you can print from https://github.com/bullestock/4xidraw
Are the Pololu board in the right orientation?
GRBL uses up almost the program space, memory and processing power so SD card is not possible as is. However, you may add a second Arduino Nano with an SD card to stream g-code to the UNO serial port. I have never done it but it should work ok.
The wire to 12v (Vin) is to provide 12V to be CNC shield once power supply is connected to Arduino power jack.
Not sure what your problem is but installation details are found here https://github.com/misan/laser-gcode-exporter-inkscape-plugin
Hi Jason, you can check for yourself that pin 11 is indeed Z-limit switch on CNCShield board v3 https://www.optimusdigital.ro/index.php?controller...Once servo sweep (set to pin 11) works you have the right wiring. If anything does not work later it is a software problem. If you are using the firmware link I provided above commands M3 S100 and M3 S10 should move the servo when sent over the serial port.
While pin 11 is used for z-limit input in the default GRBL code, the modified version we use will turn this pin into an output pin for servo control https://github.com/misan/grbl-servo/blob/master/config.h#L238
Naming motors X and Y is unfortunate in this case (my mistake), as they both move for almost any motion command even if it is only for moving one axis, Have a look at the math here http://corexy.com/theory.html
Please note that servo pin is not 9 but 11 and most likely brown wire is GND.
Was the link provided above not helpful enough?https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue291b907/g/shares/SHabee1QT1a327cf2b7a67ebfe2663dbeb8c?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IIGYAsBOVEAmEC0AbAEYzp6qoCG2elAZjAKzkDsApjNgMYAcRdAJnSUQAXSA
I haven't used or seen your servo so I might be wrong, but I would connect brown to GND and orange to servo pin instead.
both stepper motors move whenever you change X or Y location, so that is expected.For 16 tooth pulleys you will need to change the scale as you did, plus the belt alignment may be wrong, fixing that will require changes to the two pieces of the centrar carriage).Without jumpers the scale changes too, plus the motors vibrate a lot and I will not recommend to work this way.
El servo necesita más alimentación de la que puede dar el USB, así que cualquier prueba que hagas tiene que ser con alimentación externa para que los resultados sean significativos.
I have used PLA for printing the parts of 4xiDraw. No problem so far.You are welcome.
Si un servo gira sin parar con m3s30 es porque es un servo de rotación continua, para este proyecto se necesita un servo convencional (que no puede girar más de 180 grados).
You can try Arduino Servo Sweep example code (comes with Arduino IDE) setting the servo pin to 11. If the servo still does not move back and forth there is something wrong with the electrical connection.
Pen up and pen down commands can use any M3S that works for your hardware but these will need to be set on the plugin you use to create the gcode fille in Inkscape (not on the universal gcode sender).
I used whilte PLA.
it's overkill but there is no reason not to work.
4xiDraw does not use them. Home it manually before powering it up.
I am not sure it will balance properly. Try it at your own risk.You can use the same software.
12V 2A is what I use and it works ok. More amps are never bad but bulkier and perhaps pricier. But if you have it at hand, go for it.
Ok, then the scale of one of them is wrong. Two things:$100 and $101 should be the same AND ...both stepper drivers will need to have the same microstepping level (the three jumpers below the driver boards should be on)
if you use different stepper motors (with different number of steps per revolution) you can compensate for that using the scale values $100 and $101.For example if motor0 os 200 steps/revolution and motor1 is 96 steps/revolution, maybe you can have $100=80 and $101=38.400
if you use different stepper motors (with different number of steps per revolution) you can compensate for that using the scale values $100 and $101.For example if motor0 os 200 steps/revolution and motor1 is 96 steps/revolution, maybe you can have $100=80 and $101=166.666
If using the firmware I linked it is already enabled.
You are doing fine. That message is a warning not an error, go ahead with the Upload and you are good to go.
error:Expected command letter: G-code is composed of G-code "words", which consists of a letter followed by a number value. This error occurs when the letter prefix of a G-code word is missing in the G-code block (aka line).have a look at https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Interfacing-with-Grbl for more info on errors and configuration
Did you enable corexy in the firmware?
what does it draw instead?
Sure, you can use wood two, most of the plastic parts can be made out of wood too with a bit of patience.
If you want to use Bluetooth you need to make sure the Bluetooth module is configured to use the same baudrate the Arduino is (115200 bps in the firmware I use). You can use the same software (Universal Serial Sender) that you used with USB, just change the serial port to the Bluetooth one.
You can use the guidance provided here https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Bluetooth-Basic-Tutorial/And you still use the application on the PC side but now use the bluetooth serial port instead of the USB one.
Thingiverse link contains the DXF for laser cut parts. If you are good with the saw you can cut it by hand from plywood. That should be cheaper in case you do not have access to a 3D printer or laser cutter.
Hi KadirÖ1,The washer is for the inner races of the bearings to contact to each other leaving the outer ring to move freely.
It seems related to Universal Gcode Sender https://github.com/winder/Universal-G-Code-Sender/...Can you control GRBL from Arduino's Serial Monitor? Uploading GRBL to Arduino maybe tricky the first time, try to follow the instructions carefully https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Flashing-Grbl-to-an-Arduino
Hi Burock54,M5 is the same as M3 S0M3 S20 means to rotate 20 units the servo.M3 S50 means to rotate 50 units ... and so onM3 S0 means the servo should go to 0 degrees angle (units are not degrees but proportional to that).If connecting to your GRBL the servo does not respond to different commands as the ones above there is still something wrong in your setup (as I guess you connect GND and +5v to power your servo besides the signal pin).
Hi burock54,Please note connecting 12V to the CNCshield is not advisable. Use the Arduino power input jack instead. Some users reported broken USB chip when using that configuration.
If servo rotates one or more revolutions it means you have the wrong type of servo.
You have the Onshape CAD linked in Thingiverse (which is linked from the instructable too). I have created a 1m x 0.7m version using 8mm rods and I could not recommend it.
problems: balance, too much play, motors may not be powerful enough for a larger version, difficult to carry around.
Thanks a lot for mentioning my name and code. Glad to know it worked for you.
Thanks a lot SandorH4 for your work. I am sure it is helping a lot of Windows users out there.
solo cuenta el config.h en la carpeta grbl dentro libraries
Es el COREXY que tiene que estar sin comentar pero me parece que no has conesguido cargar la versión sin comentar.
There may be groups inside groups that might need more than one ungrouping operation.
The plugin I posted works with 4xiDraw as it replaces the laser on/off commands by pen down/up commands.
Hi, I do not think changes on GRBL version are making a difference for the job. At any rate, you need to port the changes so the servo works (as stock GRBL spindle control does not work with a servo). I have not made any changes to my machine so far, but I can see that smooth bars could be fixed with screws instead of superglue.
Sure you can do that too. Other people use a third stepper for the pen up and down as Z-axis.
What you want to do is beyond the current capabilities of the firmware I use (GRBL assumes drivers with STEP and DIRECTION drivers. L298 won't work like that, so you will need to figure out a firmware that can use it).Wiring is like this https://okelectronic.wordpress.com/2015/10/02/diy-cscnc-5-connecting-all-grbl-linistepper-limit-switches/
hatchfill is what I was about to suggest. other than that I do not know what else you could do.
Not in a way I am aware of.
Use Torsten's firmware as it is an adaptation of the original AxiDraw plugin.
No, I do not think so.
try this other tool for vectorising http://online.rapidresizer.com/tracer.php
no idea but I would guess it does not.
Great job Miguel.bi, and thanks a lot for sharing it.
That is going to be great. Thanks.
Thanks and congrats on your working unit.
I have only used 1.8º but I cannot think of a reason of why 0.9º won't work.
I would say better than 0.2mm but math can fool you into thinking you can do much better. On the other hand, using a single belt for the two axis can make repetitivity poor unless you manage to get a very rigid structure. I won't use this for any high precision operation.
That piece of information I did not know. Thanks for sharing it.
SVG coordinates (down is Y+) work opposite of cartesian coordinates (down is Y-) https://www.sarasoueidan.com/blog/svg-coordinate-systems/Depending on your plugin used that is kept or flipped. If your image is not right but the mirror image then you can flip it on Inkscape before printing it. For me, home is bottom left corner for my paper page but top left corner for inkscape.
45 degree rotation is usually due to not having enabled COREXY on GRBL firmware.
My version should not need any editing as it is already configured properly.
if you use stock GRBL instead of the one I linked here do not expect the servo to work.
you may want to read how they do it here https://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Home/Limit_Switchesbut you only would use end-stops for X and Y axis