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Yo sólo estoy usando coordenadas positivas. Quizá te ayude https://github.com/grbl/grbl/wiki/Frequently-Asked-Questions
Konstantin did a pretty good job (though he made some changes to the design too) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qanuOqAqHyo
there is a picture of the wiring. If you need the cncshield circuit you can get it here https://courses.ideate.cmu.edu/60-428/s2017/ref/text/resrc/cnc-shield.html
The new plugin that connects to the AxiDraw I have not yet tested it so I cannot help you there. You can connect to the AxiDraw using putty or Arduino Serial Monitor to issue commands to the board and test its behavior.
It seems there is a short in your supply. Try removing the servo connection to see if you Arduino responds again. If not, I am afraid it has been somehow damaged. As for the right connection follow the info provided by your servo vendor. Maybe they are using other colors I do not mention or even worse, they are using them in a different way. And try to figure out the servo wiring just using Arduino Sweep example without the CNCshield.
I reckon Step 4 covers that with text and picture. Is there any problem with the info I provided there?
Are you powering the Arduino with an external power supply? Powering it through the Arduino power jack?
Then I would look for a short in the CNCShield PCB. Check whether or not there is continuity from D11 to Z+ on the shield. Then check the same to +5V or GND ...
330mm is ok. Locking nuts are ok but more expensive and difficult to tighten.
If one motor works ok and when you add the second one both do not work I think it is a power supply problem. Check your supply voltage then.
I have not yet tested but Torsten's is most likely the better choice (print directly from Inkscape, no need for another software).
I reckon you should first use one of the sample gcode files. Once these work for you you know the machine is working ok. https://www.youmagine.com/documents/41420/download
that is the way I have it
It might work but I do not recommend anything less than 2A.
VIbrating motors means only only one coils is energized (or both are energized the wrong way). Posible causes:1) poor connections (check for wires are well connected)2) broken driver (never connect or disconnect motor wires with the power on)3) incorrect wiring (are you sure each coil ends go to adjacent pins?)
Servo is completely independent and unrelated to stepper operation. Check you connections.
this is to set the driver to 16x microstepping so motors turn smoothly
The link provided above does contain pictures of the jumpers besides a detailed explanation of the purpose of the jumpers. You need three jumpers per driver and they have to be as in the picture
did you populate the three jumpers below each pololu driver board on CNCshield?
try this online tracer http://online.rapidresizer.com/tracer.php
Many people having problem with servo because the only power Arduino gets is from the USB. If you follow the wiring I propose the 12V supply go to Arduino power jack. Does this help?
I provided the full CAD so anyone can see how all it is assembled and I did that on a platform that requires you install nothing (unless using a laptop or iphone) as it works on the browsers https://cad.onshape.com/documents/236f46681d1cbe31f6d52db0/w/5948c0b4f86507971afed68c
Not one that I am aware of.
I am not aware of a way of doing that when vectorizing a bitmap, maybe other readers can chime in.
No need of gears or extra parts. Lever should push carriage up on pen up movements.
Wow, that is fantastic news. I am sure people will love it.Thanks a lot Torsten!!If you do not mind I will post the link on the instructable.
You can use Egg Bot's plugin for hatching.
You can easily mirror it on Inkscape
I guess you mean where you can change the pen up and down values (angles): That can be done in the plug-in dialog.
You are right, it is a bit confusing as different standards call for different locations for (0,0). So I have moved my own home location depending on the toolset I was using at the time. If I reckon correctly for Monalisa coordinates to work well you need to position the pen farthest from Arduino board (in both axis).Initial position (aka home) can be automated with the use of end-stops but I am not sure if power-up can trigger it (I think it cannot). But it definitely could be included in your g-code file.
This is usually happenning as COREXY is not enabled in the firmware (it is on my linked firmware though). Maybe you are doing something wrong with the uploading/compiling process or you already have grbl installed in your libraries and it is interfering with mine (if so remove grbl from your libraries folder).
Not sure if you can read the comment above but I reckon simpler thing to do is to align the servo arm so you do not need to change the angle values, but if you want to do it please note M3 S<value> sets the angle around the 180 degrees of motion (value=0 means 0 degrees and 255 means 180 degrees). For other values just do a rule of three.
I use Arduino UNO not a nano but they both feature the same processor with the same memory size. I have just tested nano targer with Arduino 1.6.7 and there is no issue, 96% of program memory used.
I do not think so as LM8UUs come with some grease of their own.
I already told you how to change the values, by replacing the M3/M5 commands by the proper values using M3 S strings.That said, please remember the splines on the servo shaft allow you to have many different attachment angles for the arm, so maybe you can just rotate the arm till it works ok without changing the angle values.
yes, F stands for flange, in our case flanges help to keep the belt on the bearing.
You need two of them, mounted with the flange oposite to each other and 6mm witdh belt.
and an M3 washer in between the two bearings.
asked and replied in the comments below
Es un soporte de motor más alto, que reemplaza al otro más bajo.
I guess you can but you will need to find a software solution that works for you with that hardware.
That is odd, can you try M3 instead of M03? Are XY moves working ok?
servo motor will certainly require some extension to its wires, these do not need to be clustered together.
The "smiling face" part is mounted upside-down in yours. Servo arm lever would it up when mounted right.
Deberías fe partir de un gráfico vectorial. No de una imagen.
Gracias.Todo depende de cómo hayas creado el archivo gráfico. En Inkscape puedes unir varios trayectos para que sean uno sólo.
Pololu can be mounted in two ways, if connected upsisde down it might send 12V to the Arduino and kill it (just a guess).
Hi, The way apply power makes sure Arduino is always powered when motors are powered and it does so in a way wrong polarity is ruled out. On top of that, it helps if you plan on using it without USB (which I did through a Bluetooth adaptor). Are you powering the SG90 with 5v? Mine does not get hot but it gets warm with use.From the two screw terminals one is GND and is shared with Arduino. The other is 12-30V and it is independent. I use 12V for my shield and and send the 12V from the Arduino Vin pin to the shield with the soldered cable I mentioned.Powering the shield and not the Arduino may be a bad thing when you connect the USB.
You should have a look a the issues on grbl master github repo. You may find some problems and solutions there.
Not easy as GRBL uses up most of available code space. You may want to got GRBL github though.
If the pulleys on the stepper motors are similar and the steppers are same type both values should be equal.
You need to set the right scale values for $100 & $101 parameters (stored in EEPROM) for me 80 is the right value for both.
servo needs three pins, +5v, GND and signal (D11). Servo command is M3 S where value goes from 0 to 255 for different angles. If the servo does not respond to different commands sent to GRBL using Arduino Serial Terminal then there is a firmware problem (wrong GRBL version: use the one linked in the instructable).
You can get the lasercut version DXF file on thingiverse (linked in the instructable).
Have a look at this http://fightpc.blogspot.com.es/2017/01/installing-pil-in-osx.html
No, it is not. I did all my tests in OSX. Plugin needs you to install PIL library first if memory serves.
Plastic parts are to be 3d printed, rest of components can be sourced from different hardware suppliers. I've have just learned of a variation sold cheaply in Asia as a kit https://www.aliexpress.com/item/DIY-drawing-machine-full-set-coreXY-drawbot-tool-kit/32788855923.html
You need a plugin for this, like this one for example: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943
Hi shree_1995, I am not affiliated with any shop. The bill of materials I mentioned is to be bought on your favorite hardware store. I have seen a couple of clones on Aliexpress that offered complete kits of a similar contraption too. I am not selling kits at the moment.
I assume you are using latest Inkscape version (0.91). I did not write the extension, just patched to work with 4xiDraw. I am not sure what you can do to fix it.
Plugin needs Python Imaging library (PIL) to be installed before it can work. http://www.pythonware.com/products/pil/
It is surprisingly common to get some non-working units when you buy a kit. Glad to know you've got it fixed.
Each new program has a certain learning curve. Inkscape is not the easiest, but Ctrl-A selects All and Shift-Ctrl-G ungroups. But if I reckon correctly the plugin works ok with groups too (maybe you get a warning but that's all).
USB chip broken suggests a power supply problem. Please make sure both shield and Arduino are powered by the same power supply with the soldered wire as per this instructable.A motor working only in a single direction might mean an electrical problem (some shields are badly soldered) so the signal from Arduino does not reach the motor driver daughter board. But ... if you reverse the 4 pin connector to the stepper motor a direction change should happen (do always that with the power off or you risk damaging the driver).You fail to mention the microstepping level you are using, most common is 16 microsteps/step (not using microstepping creates a lot of noise and vibration and it is not recommended). This is what the three jumpers below each driver board in the shield are for. If you get...see more »USB chip broken suggests a power supply problem. Please make sure both shield and Arduino are powered by the same power supply with the soldered wire as per this instructable.A motor working only in a single direction might mean an electrical problem (some shields are badly soldered) so the signal from Arduino does not reach the motor driver daughter board. But ... if you reverse the 4 pin connector to the stepper motor a direction change should happen (do always that with the power off or you risk damaging the driver).You fail to mention the microstepping level you are using, most common is 16 microsteps/step (not using microstepping creates a lot of noise and vibration and it is not recommended). This is what the three jumpers below each driver board in the shield are for. If you get to much travel then reduce the values of $100 and $101 accordingly to set the right scale. Your using 16 tooth pulleys might be a problem mechanically as the design called for 20 tooth instead. It still will work but belt tension won't be the same all the time.
This usually happens because you have the wrong firmware (or the right firmware configured wrongly if you prefer). If you use this one https://github.com/misan/grbl-servo it should be ok as COREXY feature is enabled on it.
Of course, if not using microstepping at all the scale is 16 larger :-)
You've got it: http://www.thingiverse.com/download:3134100
Not good. If using the firmware I linked baudrate should be 115.200bps.
You can have a look at the design assembly here https://cad.onshape.com/documents/236f46681d1cbe31f6d52db0/w/5948c0b4f86507971afed68c/e/97c3b5c3e30764b62f7eb951You can use the section view to show any hidden area (or just make invisible the parts that block your view).
Scaling it up is possible but you will need to figure out what rod sizes work best for your size. There a larger stepper motors too. Let us know what you create.
For a third stepper motor you will need a third stepper driver. There is room for it in the CNC shield. On top of that you will need to look for a suitabke firnware and proper drawing plug-in.
Link is provided in the firmware section.
Thanks a lot Erivelton, with your permission I am going to add your guide to the instructable, as most of it was already mentioned in some comments below but I feel that way was not helping much.
Thanks a lot Ly3s, next time I am in Paris I am going to reach you :-)
Por supuesto, además el plug-in que usa AxiDraw permite imprimir directamente desde Inkscape, haciendo el proceso algo más sencillo.
It looks more a warning than an error the one on the left. The box on the right I do not know what is saying as I cannot read Russian.
Great work. Please not that now your acceleration values are very low, so it takes a long time to accelerate on each move. That is what you need to change to speed up operation. Inkscape may look intimidating at first but it is a nice program, but if you find plug-in install is beyond your skills have a loot at gcode tools. These can create g-code but you'll need to hack the result for pen-up and pen-down movements. Given you have reach so far I reckon you will manage to get all working properly. Best regards.
Hi Ly3s,You need to set the scale right using $100 and $101 commands. In my case the value is 80 but it depends on the type of pulley/belt, the microstepping level and the stepper type (steps/revolution). If you think now it is 10 times larger, just divide by ten whatever value you have there now. You can pull all the values out with $$ command.
Hi, Given the noise of the machine I reckon you are not using microstepping. With that it will work much smoother so it is recommended you put three jumpers below each stepper driver on the cncshield. Please note the pen-up mechanism will only work for a certain angle of the servo arm, so if it is not going up maybe you need to re-set the arm at another angle so it pushes the carriage up and then it allows it to fall down for pen down action.
That is what original GRBL firmware is for. If you want a z-axis stepper just use regular GRBL. But if you plan on using 4xiDraw mechanism I do not think you will get good results as it is not intended to handle the forces involved.
Each G01 command may contain a new feed-rate value with the letter F, but the nice thing is that you do not have to deal with that with the gcode file but to be able to get that marked when you are drawing or preparing the the graph. However I am not sure how that might be done with the plugin I use.
It is somtehing I have not explored myself. I read it vould be codfied as layer names but I have never attemted myself.
También yo lo hago por gravedad.
tienes que calibrar los valores $100 y $101 del grbl para que las medidas te salgan correctas. A mi con un valor de 80 me salen bien.
Mira los detalles aquí https://github.com/misan/laser-gcode-exporter-inkscape-plugin puedes nombrar la capa especificando la velocidad deseada (feedrate) para cuando se dibuja.
Sure, you just need four diigital outputs. If you do not want to build your own board you may use this one https://www.adafruit.com/product/2348
Solo trabaja con gráficos vectoriales.
I have used open ended belt. But it can be done with a closed one if long enough. It does not have to be of any given type as far as:1) width is 6mm or less2) it matches the pulleys' profileTotal length varies depending on the size of your smooth rods, but 4 foot long should be enough for regular size.
I think so. Have fun.
I am using 34mm-tall stepper from an old copy machine. I'd say any nema17 motor you can get most likely can do the job. If a figure is needed let's talk about 1Kg.cm or better.
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