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Big Ass AXE
Powerful burning Laser
HEAVY METAL Bench Vise :)
Space Shuttle Rocket Stove :)
Smoking in an apartment
hello instructablers!i am about to start building a rocket stove. I am loking for information on how long does it take for the wood to get burned, but i cannot find anything. I know that it depends on the kind of wood i will use, on the dimentions of the opening that the air is sucked from,on how big is the stove., etcI need to know aproximately how often your oven need to be refilled with an average hard wood. I would like to heat a space with that system but i would like to do other things at the same time and not have in mind of the stove to be refilled too often.. Does anyone have an idea aproximately about those times?
GAS TANK BBQ
Angle Grinder Grain Mill
Cheapest Rocket Stove
Wooden Magic Bottle Holder
I used hand file at the beginnig, after this process, used metal abrasive disc and flap disk
Make a woodshop pre-filter (aka cyclone) for $8
What grit disk did you use in your angle grinder to sharpen the blade?
How to Build a Modern Dresser - With Few Tools
42oz Wooden Beer Mug
Make 4 Useful Things From 9V Dead Battery
Mastika Bottle CoffeTable
I use thick gauge copper wire from the hardware store for pins/rivets. Works well.
Make sure it's something you know is high carbon, or buy some known steel like 1095/1085/1075. I work primarily in 1095, but 1085 and 1075 work just fine for big heavy choppers, and are more forgiving when heat-treating, and aren't very expensive. I buy my steel from New Jersey Steel Baron. Good folks there. They ship quickly, and have a great selection in lots of sizes.If you're really strapped for cash, or have a need to re-purpose, I would suggest very old files or very old mill blades. New files and saw blades sometimes are mostly made of low-carbon steel, with just a tiny bit of good steel welded to the working area, making them unsuitable. In the past, this wasn't the case, as the labor needed to do this cost more than the savings in using less good steel. Now, though, robots can weld it all together in a fraction of a second, so it now makes economic sense.I hear leaf springs are decent, but haven't tried them, so I can't personally vouch.
With epoxy, they'll likely stay on just fine for a very long time. It forms a very hard and very durable resin. My first terrible knives just had epoxy holding on the handles, and they're still on just fine.
Heating (non-stainless) steel to critical and cooling slowly softens it. For example, I anneal files for knifemaking by heating them up in my forge, and jamming them in a bucket of vermiculite to cool down very slowly.When you heat steel and then cool it quickly, this hardens the steel. Generally water cools too quickly, and can lead to the steel cracking. Some people do water for a moment, and finish in oil. Personally, I heat to critical (~1500f for non-stainless), and quench in room temp canola oil. After that, the steel is in fact too hard, and is brittle. I temper in an oven at 450 for two hours (for 1095 steel, which is what I primarily work with) to soften it enough to remove the brittle quality.Stainless is different, but it's not something I'm set up to work with, so I can't speak to the process much.
dwathen, I am sorry to point out to you that quenching does NOT soften the metal. Just for info, I have been a welder for over 25 years and a blacksmith for 16 years.
Tempering does not mean heating in fire... tempering is done ...after... hardening, because when you harden a piece of steel it is brittle and may sometimes easily crack.That means that you should heat it after hardening in water or oil. Heat it to 230°C (which is possible in an oven) and keep it there for an hour and that should do ;) - JiříH5
See step 8! - FRANKTHEBUILDER
May I suggest you have someone edit your instructions before you post, you have numerous spelling and grammatical errors. - WilsonM24
great job but but i think you should temper it!
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