With Instructables you can share what you make with the world, and tap into an ever-growing community of creative experts.
i think you need to read my comment, I said throw the heads away which contain the Methanol
I messaged you back earlier ;-) as I said its a UK immersion heater element so you may want to find what immersion heater elements are in your country and get a stainless flange to match
check plumbing supply places should be much cheaper than that
awesome, you can get really high yields from it if its run correctly, most you will likely be able to get is 96% so around 192 proof
no, it condenses before it gets that far as long as the water is running through the coil, its just a precaution to prevent pressure build up
about 7 days maybe a day or 2 more
it will be fine as long as you use the mash as soon as its finished fermenting and dont leave it
thats a fantastic part of the world and i would love to go there and build my self a proper old school copper still and run it in a creek like the old timers used to do. I am in the UK and being such a small island there isn't really many places we can get away with that here.when thinking about your malts you need to think about the flavour, adding rye will add some spice to it, barley would add a slight creamy taste to it and corn well you have enough of that in it anyway so I would go for the barley my self, its tried and tested out in the mountains for years. once you have done a barley run do a rye run so you can see the difference, remember to run the still slow so you get a higher percentage but not too slow so you lose the flavour. moonshine is all about that corn flavour.so to ...see more »thats a fantastic part of the world and i would love to go there and build my self a proper old school copper still and run it in a creek like the old timers used to do. I am in the UK and being such a small island there isn't really many places we can get away with that here.when thinking about your malts you need to think about the flavour, adding rye will add some spice to it, barley would add a slight creamy taste to it and corn well you have enough of that in it anyway so I would go for the barley my self, its tried and tested out in the mountains for years. once you have done a barley run do a rye run so you can see the difference, remember to run the still slow so you get a higher percentage but not too slow so you lose the flavour. moonshine is all about that corn flavour.so to answer question 1: you need the yeast to turn the sugars in to alcohol. ;-) you add sugar to boost the yield, I have found 1kg sugar will give me about 1 litre of 60-65% spirit if run right., as long as you don't add too much you shouldn't spoil the taste. so the yeast is needed, and remember different yeasts will effect the flavour, I don't see how you can get alcohol without yeast unless the old timers are relying on the natural yeast on the grain.question 2: ok so if you add sugar you get much much more alcohol but if you add too much sugar you get a harsh taste in the whiskey, in a 23 Litre fermenter I would only put 4kg of sugar in with my corn and such. if you stick to doing it old school and not use any added sugar you will get alcohol but the yield will be reduced and it will cost you more in grain how ever you can get a nicer tasting product right off the bat by doing it without sugar. its also worth noting in your area the cops keep a careful eye on people buying large amounts of sugar so be careful if you are adding sugar to large barrels. all alcohol will be clear when it comes out of the still even if there is sugar added to the wash/mash, the colour comes from ageing which you don't have to do for moonshine.Be aware that the above is an approximation of JD, they use a proprietary yeast which obviously i dont have access to and as I said yeast changes the flavour profile. you can buy yeast specifically for Tennessee Whiskey though and they will give it that Cherry note you get in JD so it will make it closer. and to make JD you need to be patient and wait 2-3 years while it is on oak, it smooths it out and adds to the flavour.you could add cherry's to the mash if you wanted to, worth a try ;-) i wouldn't add it to the finished product as they may go off and spoil the whiskey remember it needs a long time on the oak.lol donation, no donation needed, if you pop me an email with your address I can work out the postage, if you cover the postage I will send you one of my last 500ml bottles ;-) Merry Christmas ;-) just remember I am in the UK so I have no idea how much the postage will be. email@example.com or maybe we can do an exchange for some real Appalachian moonshine ;-)
i used hot glue to seal the holeyes that yeast will be fine, using a different yeast will just produce a different flavor profile.
you can get it from color gas or ebay
its standard gas hose
i only put water in to make sure my element is covered in my still this does not effect the % that comes out, how you run your still effects the % that comes out of it and you want it to come out slightly stronger than drinking strength.
I would add the tails and any heads and take off a bit from the start but I would judge it by taste as most of the methanol will have come off on the first run. I only water mine down to cover the element
Yes, I don't drink gin but the reports I got back were that the flavour was way too strong
Harvesting your own clay, dirty but delightful!
its a needle valve, you have much more control with a needle valve than a ball valve.stick to solid brass, brass is ok as long as its lead free brass. i wouldn't use plated brass, you dont know what materials were used in the plating process or the underlying material. use brass or stainless steel, if you can find a needle valve in copper then use that.
Another thing is to discard the heads, that's where the bad flavour is. You want to capture the hearts and the stop running when you get to the tails
Run it slower, it should slowly drip out not run out like a stream, if your running it too fast it will strip the flavour out of it. If you have followed the instructions with the correct amounts then it's down to running it too fast or your still head is too tall and its refluxing. You should be using a pot still for rum.
its cheaper than food grade molasses and its fine for distilling.
I buy my molasses from ebay i get the gold label one, they use it as horse feed but its just plain molasses with no additives so its fine to use as it will be distilled and not consumed directly.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOLASSES-GOLD-LABEL-5LT-Horse-Feed-Supplement-/281629846583I normally get about 4 runs out of it. the stuff you are looking at is really really thick stuff and expensive. the Rum flavour comes from the Molasses, the alcohol content comes from the sugar you add and whats in the molasses. you probably could make up the shortfall with sugar not sure how much difference to the flavour that would make though.
you can use other brands but check they are just molasses and they don't have additives in them.
I've not noticed it before but then I clean my still regularly with vinegar solution so that should take care of that before it forms.that being said, the element is in a screw in flange so it could easily be removed and cleaned.
The tomato paste is just in replacement of yeast nutrient. If your making this gin the halve the botanicals I got feedback that the flavour was way too strong
about £5 on ebay, about £20 in maplins
they will need to be cut up so they can release their flavor.i would expect that if they are on ebay they are probably listed as bitter almonds but are not, unless they are coming from another country other than the UK.
it depends on what you are making, if you are making Gin, Vodka or white Rum then no you don't have to wait for it to sit. if you are making a Whisky, Whiskey or Golden Rum then you would need to put it on oak which can take years if its done right, but there are ways to speed it up by having more surface area on the oak then it can be done in months but the long you leave it the better.
it was a fair bit of work, thanks for the vote much appreciated.
just varnish as it says in the instructable
its about 250mm, its short so it should preserve the flavors
Giant Wooden Connect FourView Instructable »
Butterfly Coat Rack from of...View Instructable »
Laser Cutting Class
yes that would be fine, I didn't use copper because its expensive, but the more copper the better as it will help to remove sulphates
think i got mine on ebay, but thats for a UK heating element, other country's may have a different size
No problem at all, if it helps anyone understanding how to make their own matrix mould then thats great.
Silcone Matrix Mould / Cavi...View Instructable »
I didn't, I had someone weld it for meChris
I didn't weld it, I had someone weld it for me at a workshop
Arduino Bluetooth Basic Tutorial
DIY Smoke Machine from Ecig clearomiser
Arduino Laser Engraver Wood Design!
Sticky Lemon Syrup Cake
Flux Capacitor Door Bell using Intel Edison
Making a Medieval Steel Gauntlet - sheet metal (WIP)
Back to the Future "Plutonium Fuel Cell"
How to program the ATtiny85 with the Arduino uno board
How to fix bad Chinese Arduino clones
Back To The Future 2: Pitbull Hoverboard
Plot Clock for dummies.
PipBoy 3000 (working)
Fallout 3- Brotherhood of Steel Helmet
Making Iron Oxide A Different Way
Life-size almost 6ft Dalek.
Quick Arduino MIDI Laser Harp
Easy and cheap Laser Harp
Frameless Laser Harp
Make Your Own Custom Coin
The Fifth Element Stones Pillar Candle Holders
Arduino Stepper Motors
Loud and Awesome sound-effects on Arduino
Electric Vehicle - A simple lightweight EV platform
How To Pick A Lock With Hairpins
3D Printed MatTracks for RC car in 1/10 scale
Building a Small Format Vacuumformer from an Old Toaster Oven
Propane tank to air storage
Arduino-Based Blue Box (Phone Phreaking)
3D Print an Articulated Warhammer 40k Power Fist
How to make an Arduino from scratch
Process of Blow Glass
Wood Mold for Glassblowing
The Ultimate FM Transmitter (Long Range Spybug)
Barista championship brewing stopwatch • Introduction
Building a Daft Punk helmet with programmable LED display
Multiplexing 7 Segment displays with Arduino and Shift Registers
Arduino Tutorial - Numeric Keypads
74HC595 digital LED Display Based on Arduino( Code Provided)
Different methods of driving 7 Segment LED displays with Arduino
Arduino Tutorial Bundle .:Arduino Experimentation Kit:. (ARDX)
Microreader Kit and Beyond
Emma: an 8-digit Alphanumeric LED Display powered by Electric Imp
Charlieplexing 7 segment displays
GEEKS ARE KEWL: Arduino-Controlled 18x6 LED Matrix (in progress)
Arduino powered 7 seg LED display using Shift Registers - I made it at TechShop
Charlieplexing 7-segment displays
Arduino and 7 segment LED display decoder
Using the sparkfun 12 Button keypad, with the arduino
Arduino 3 wire Matrix Keypad
I2C Controlled 7 Segment LED Display
Join 2 million + to receive instant DIY inspiration in your inbox.
© 2016 Autodesk, Inc.