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Make a maintainable DIY double-glazed window
Silicone caulk could be used as a seal by running a bead along the groove, waiting for it to dry, then adding the window.Cheaper and softer than an O-ring. If squeezed with equal pressure and layed at even speed it should work very well.
Convert a hand-held circular saw into a table saw
The results look fine. Can't see the water mark even when I'm looking. I'm working up to making a pair of derbys that are welted construction. There's a lot of new and it's hard to get started. It's encouraging to see your results.
When stretching the leather over the last, did you wet it at all?
How to Repair Hiking Boots
I bought two cheap, used saws--perfectly serviceable--at garage sales. Yes, SawStop and now Bosch make both job site and shop versions of table saws that "break" intantaniously, but they begin at around $1200-1600 dollars. Take of you fingers out there.
a good idea if you want to make a quick change multitool table is to head to your local hobby shop and pick up some battery phugs/sockets and some wire. Bypass the original switch with a socket/plug on the positive or negative, and insert a 250v reccomended switch somewhere on the table with a socket/plug opposite to that of whats on your tool. When your tool is mounted on the table, use the trigger lock feature most tools have(to keep it on) so you only have one switch to turn it on and off at will. If you're worried about usability after such a mod, just make a loop jumper to continue the circuit and use the drill like normal
Wood-Fired Brick Oven
How to Repair the Heel of Athletic Shoes
another shoes repairhttp://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Repair-Football-Shoes/
Another shoes repair
Could you share the hole spacing for the custom mount?
You rock for this post! I actually work at a glass shop where our specialty is insulated glass units. I can't think of a day where at least one of us hasn't said "Glass is sharp!" I found it a little annoying at first, I was wondering if everyone thought i was stupid, but then I realized everyone said it to everyone else. And when you're around glass all the time, you can let your guard down. I'd much rather be reminded by a co-worker, than a giant glass shard. And bad stuff can happen in the blink of an eye! "Glass is potentially deadly if you happen to get cut in the wrong place and with enough depth. Respect that."- omg, I LOVE how you said that!
This could be an instructable on its own. I've cut glass before but never heard of sanding the edges.
The construction of the table is going to be very simple. It will be a box with a hollow top. The hollow top is through which all the dust that falls down the blade will be collected. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0YaVYjQ-FM
Repair Guitar Neck
Radial-Arm Saw Overhaul & Modification for Low Profile Storage
Well, it's hard to argue that PVC is a good material, at least in terms of the environment. For me building will be relatively easy compared to convincing my family to use it! Keep up the good work.
Such an interesting project. Saves water and energy. Why not just use some PVC pipe instead of an acrylic tube? Practicality is more important than maker-izing the project. Using LASER-cut parts really isn't required. And who wants a clear filter? Ew.Otherwise, really nice work. Concepts will work even for a less pretty version.
After learning a whole lot about windows, prices, insulation, etc, I am saying NO to commercial windows and making my own. This instructable has been very helpful in getting me started. Thank You!I'd like to add a not about cutting glass. I've been a glass-maker and glass educator for about 15 years. I'd like to suggest that DIYers read the glass-cutting portion of this instructable with a grain of salt. Some of the writer's suggestions about how to cut glass are inaccurate. Here are my suggestions for glass cutting.Gather the following: safety glasses, gloves, a piece of carpet, cutting oil, glass cutter with oil reservoir, running pliers, abrasive material and your phone. Also search for and watch videos on the following: how to carry sheets of glass safely & how to cut glass safely. Most videos will focus on stained glass (ie: small pieces of glass), so make a point of finding videos that address larger sheets of glass such as what you'll be working with in making windows. Safety Glasses: most important piece safety equipment. Why? Because it's easy to damage eyes for life when a piece of glass flies up there, especially if you react like a normal person and try to rub the irritant out of your eye. When you break a piece of glass along a scored line, the top surface of the glass breaks into teeny tiny pieces and flies away from the break. If you're snapping glass properly, that means up and away, towards your body. Most of those little pieces never get close to you, but once in awhile... If you don't believe me, do a search for videos of sheet glass breaking in slow-mo.Gloves: and long sleeves, long pants and closed-toe shoes. If you're working with window-sized pieces of glass, that's enough glass to cause serious injury or death if it slips, falls, etc. A layer of material between your skin and the glass is helpful, especially if it's denim, leather, or other material that provides resistance to glass cutting through it. Glass is potentially deadly if you happen to get cut in the wrong place and with enough depth. Respect that.Carpet: find a piece of low-pile carpet that is larger than the largest piece of glass you're going to cut, nail it to your work table. Use that to cut all your glass, vacuum it once in awhile if it get full of bits of glass. Even though it seems counter-intuitive to use carpet (what? it'll get full of bits of glass and scratch my windows!), it's better than a hard surface. Glass is fairly brittle and if you're scoring with your glass cutter on a hard surface, and there are any variations in surface (dried glue, solder, nail-head), your glass will break from the uneven exertion of sufficient pressure on the surface. It might break where you're scoring, or it might break where there's a nail head poking out 1/32" from the table. The carpet buffers uneven pressure on the glass. Sometimes people use homasote, a spongey wood/paper fibre board product. Vacuum up little bits of glass regularly, use a low-pile carpet (like carpet for commercial / high traffic areas) and don't run your hand over it looking to see if there are little bits of glass in it.Cutting oil: Glass cutter sellers and manufacturers will says you need to use their oil, but that's not true. Any oil that is of low-viscocity (thin & runny), will work, and glass cutters with an oil reservoir usually come with some oil. I use sewing machine oil. It's the right viscosity, is designed to wash out easily and I happen to have an industrial sewing machine that uses the stuff. If you don't use oil, all the tiny bits of glass you're creating when you score glass will become embedded in your cutter and render it useless. Those little bits of glass also act as abrasives against your glass cutter, dulling it to the point of uselessness after the first several cuts. Do be sure that you wash the cutting oil off your glass once you're done all cutting. You may not notice the oil right away, but once your finger prints and the oil start to yellow on your otherwise lovely windows, you'll be sure to curse your inattentiveness to detail.Glass cutter with oil reservoir and diamond: Cheap cutters from the hardware store are a few dollars, let's say $5. They'll last several cuts and are made of hardened steel. A decent cutter with oil reservoir and diamond head will last the rest of your life and cost anywhere from $10-$50. Find one online, or visit your local stained glass supplier, compare prices, the value of your time, etc and go for it.I store my glass cutters with oil in the reservoir and in a little glass jar with oil in it. I also use a chamois or piece of leather that I run the cutter over every once in awhile if I'm doing a lot of cutting, to remove little bits of glass from the wheel. Most cutters have a round wheel-head, that has 1-5 diamond-heads on it. When one head dulls, you rotate the wheel so the next, brand new diamond head is ready for use. Running pliers: They aren't absolutely necessary, but they do make it easier to assert even pressure on both sides of the glass when you're snapping one piece in two. Running pliers also keep your hands that much further away from potential injury. When new to glass cutting, it's a weird feeling and it takes some practice to understand how the glass will break and how best to keep safe. When you watch videos on how to cut glass, most will show the use of running pliers, but you'll also probably see people doing it with their hands. Both are good. Sometimes, with larger sheets of glass, running pliers are nice because they make it easier to exert even pressure on both sides of your score line. You don't need thick glass for windows, but if you want to use thicker than 1/4" glass because it's sandblasted, or you happen to have some, then the average running pliers won't fit, and you'll need to find yourself some beefier running pliers. They'll be described as being suitable for sheet glass that is 3/16" or thicker.Abrasive materials: Sand paper is 'OK', but not not great, and here's why. Glass that has just been scored is sharp, and I mean really, dangerously sharp. If you slide your hand along a newly cut edge, you will cut yourself. Black/wet/dry Silicon carbide sand paper is great for sanding glass, but maybe not for the edges of just-cut glass. If you sand with the edge of the glass, and if you cut through the sand paper... you'll have a bad cut on your hand. If you use sand paper against the sharp edge of a sheet of glass, much of the abrasive grit will break off of the sand paper backing before doing anything to the glass. I suggest a grinding stone, diamond pad or a rock. Yep, a rock will work well, especially if it's granite. Granite is a fun thing to show off, but a grinding stone of any shape or a diamond pad are probably the most effective. Harbor Freight tools (in the USA) has them cheap. Grind along the sharp edges of the glass. You don't have to do much, but you should. 30 seconds per side of sheet glass could make the difference between 'whatever' & 911.Your Phone: Or a person within hearing distance. Sheet glass is great, but a major cut can kill you, and it can happen in the blink of an eye. If you're new to cutting lots of sheet glass, learn how to do it safely and don't let your attention stray.Thanks for the instructable. This is a great primer on making my own windows.
Yes, I think you can fix this. Won't look perfect but it'll be functional. I recommend sewing over glue. Nylon seems to work best. You can get foam from the craft store, too.
Help!!!!! ???? this is my second pair of now seemingly unavailable Canucks trainers my dog has destroyed. Living in the UK I'd have more chance of striking oil in my garden than getting another pair. I get the inside repairs and are all goods including the initial posters stitching, mine would look more like rambo did them. Does anyone have any ideas? do you think butchering some other trainers for parts (the foam and shapes of the tendon cut out) and trying to find fabric colours from a craft shop would work with a tonne of glue? I know they're never going to be 100% but some semblance of how they looked would be great.
I found this too http://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/
No argon. That was too high-tech for me, at the time. The air gap is optimized for dry air. Somewhere in the article I think I suggested desiccant but I didn't have a chance to try it out. That windows is in a house I sold, in a partially heated garage. It worked fine for that. But the real test of a double-glazed window is when the temperature difference is large, so don't take my experience too far.
Did you fill with Argon, or pull a vacuum on the void? If not how have you prevented condensation on the inside of the void? I like this idea, I thought I would make just the Spacers, assemble them, then use Automotive window tar, (comes in flat tape form) throw in some Desiccant, then seal it up. I will try this this winter while it's dry down here in South Louisiana, and hope they dont sweat this summer. These are for the Shop, so looks are not that importaint. Thanks
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