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Make a Cloud Chamber using Peltier Coolers
Arduino Nano should be same as other atmega328-based arduinos (see code for this project).
sounds like a good option to me!
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HEY BRO I NEED SOME HELP IM NEW ON ARDUINO AND IM HAVING PROBLEMS TO CHANGE THE PWM PINOUT IN THE ARDUINO NANO COULD YOU PLEASE HELP ME?
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Thanks for answering!I was already thinking about the centering problem. Another thing wrong that I discovered is that your project needs an DAC (Digital to Analog Converter). I altered the code a lot and put elastic bands (very soft and stretchable) to center the motors. It worked well, but the drawings had interference due to the PWM signals. What i'll try do do:-Apply a DAC to each control wire going to the transistors.-Use two nRF24L01+ with another arduino (UNO) and a matrix keyboard to trigger the effects from a distance, making a decent party machine.*I'm not using speakers for two reasons, because since they are moving at high speeds, they vibrate, because they have paper cones, they make a lot of noise and the second reason is that simply using speakers will increase he space required and I want for it to look more professional (just my charms...).Another thing I improoved is that I used two lm317T regulators:One setted permanently to 8V to power the motors and the other with a potenciometer to adjust the brightness again with a resistor to limit it to a maximum of 7.4V (laser's comfortable voltage) for the laser. Both regulators are connected in parallel to the 12V rail.The 12V rail can be connected to a 12V power supply, or, in my case, a 3S lipo that I protected it with cell monitoring features using voltage dividers and some code of the arduino. This makes it PORTABLE!The Projector now has a LCD with a temperature sensor and a cooling fan, wich is turned on and off by a relay according to the internal temperature.I'll post a instructable about it soon =).
Thanks for your advice Rich!Could clear acrylic boxes do the job too? Such as those clear display cases you find in common home stores.
If the 12709 is on top - it should be run at a lower voltage than the one at the bottom. Range of 3v-6v produces is likely best.If you try to run the voltage higher - the larger peltier on the bottom won't be able to pump the extra heat - and the total cooling effect will be reduced.
sorry for slow response...interesting idea - but I don't think the BLDC motors have any kind of "centering" mechanism. I can imagine they might vibrate as opposed to just spin - but I wouldn't expect them to provide a consistent position based on voltage like the speakers do.good luck!-Rich
Can the 12709 peltier cooler be used on 12V as well?
Glass can work fine - although I'd suggest thin plastic / fiberglass for the base.Aluminum base will most likely cause grief. It will disperse the cooling effect over a larger area - and result in a larger somewhat-cold area - as opposed to small very-cold area. Good luck!-Rich
Hi there - sorry for delay in responding...It's pretty hard to speculate too much without a temperature reading - but there are some common issues...Yes - static source is nothing special. Styrofoam cup you've rubbed in your hair should work fine...Are you sure you're power supply is providing enough current?Are you sure both peltiers are working? (try them separately...)Is the bottom of your chamber colored black somehow? It's really impossible to see the vapor against a white surface.Are you use an LED light? If you're having problems with alcohol pooling - try wiping it off with a paper towel... Try using -less- alcohol (just let the sponge air our a bit - then try again)...Just a few things to check... hope this helps!-Rich
Nice project! However, I'm having a problem.I used the same exact parts: Tip120 transistors, 470uF 35V capacitors, 100ohm resistors. But I chaged one sight thing. I used BLDC motors and only connected two wires of each one to the setup. Before watching this instructable, I already saw people doing laser projectors using stepper motors, BLDC motors, an normal commercial galvos. I didn't planned to buy a stepper motor, or obviously a commercial galvo. The motors were saved from an old DJI Phantom Vision+ gimbal that fell from the drone during flight and broke the ribbon cable. I changed that cable many times and it always broke. So I bought a new gimbal and used the intact brushless motors. I also am using a 1W violet Laser, (Because I love strong laser beams!) with another tip120 transistor and another 100ohm resistor connected to pin 12. I also used a separate power supply to power the laser (It's way much powerful!) I used a powerful amplifier and connected each motor to a channel (X to Right, Y to left). I played music in it (with a lot of bass) and it worked really well like a normal galvo should work. But I wanted to do animations and write text at a decent quality.Ok, the problem:I run the same code that you provided (Thanks, so easy to use!) and the projector only shows weird circles, lines and shapes. IDK what to do, maybe the brushless motors were not ment to do that.
Hey there! I've made this cloud chamber to your specifications (the two peltier-cooler version), and for whatever reason I'm not getting a vapor cloud in the chamber. The peltier coolers get the surface pretty cold (I don't have a thermometer to measure with, but it gets cold enough to freeze water vapor out of the air within just a few seconds). I've used 91% and 95% alcohol solution to test with, and neither time did a vapor cloud form. In both instances, alcohol began to condense onto the bottom of the container, but there weren't suspended droplets like those present in your videos.I've been trying to figure out the cause, and I've narrowed it down to two possibilities: 1, I just don't understand how you're using your static source. To my understanding, it's just a Styrofoam cup you place atop the container. Nothing special, right? Or 2, the peltier coolers simply aren't making the chamber cold enough. Like I said, I have no thermometer, but if that's a problem you've encountered fairly regularly I'm willing to buy one to check. I'd just like to know if there are any common problems experienced when constructing this device that could account for my issue. Thanks!
Also, I forgot to mention: The power supplies for the peltier coolers are just wall-plug power-supplies with converters attached, like laptop chargers. They're rated to the correct current and voltage, though, so I figured that wasn't the problem. I also have them both hooked up to a single power strip, for the sake of efficiency, but again I'm not sure if this might be causing some sort of problem with the power draw.
For this peltier cooler cloud chamber, I noticed that you have used a plastic container. Would a glass container suffice as well? Which one would you recommend? Furthermore, would it be ok if my design simply consisted of a container top over an aluminium plate which is thermally pasted on peltier coolers?Sorry for the bunch of questions but I would like to clarify whether this is a good method in achieving a cool base and in general, make my cloud chamber work. Because in the end, I plan on attaching high voltage to a pin at the top of the chamber as well as the aluminium plate.Thx!
You'll get a useful viewing surface of about 40mm x 40mm.If you try placing an aluminum plate on top - it probably won't increase your viewing area a useful amount. You generally end up cooling a larger area - but it won't get as cold (likely not cold enough). Suspect having two peltiers on top in parallel would result in trying to pump too much heat into the bottom peltier to be effective. That said - I don't recall if I've tried that particular setup. If you do - please post here!Good luck!-Rich
Hello, may I ask how large the surface area of cooling will be if I use the peltier coolers as you have shown above? Is there any way of increasing this surface area, such as putting a larger aluminium plate above? Furthermore, what is the effect of having a single peltier at the bottom while above it having two peltiers? Would this cool a larger surface area?Thank you!
Sorry for slow response...Not sure why it would be doing that... wondering if maybe the power source is experiencing some voltage sag when the relay is engaged?also - some motors are "timed" so they spin faster one direction than the other...-Rich
Easy, Reversible Motor Control for Arduino (or any Microcontroller)
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Great, thank you:).
i used this same motor 2 pin method with just an arduino micro and a dc motor in the d8 and d9 pin slots it works going orward but going backwards it just goes really slow forward
Sorry for slow reply.Definitely put the 12712 on the bottom. Both those peltiers are going to try to draw a lot of current.I would try running the bottom peltier (12712) at 10-12v - it will draw something around 8 to 12 amps at those voltages. Try to find a beefy power supply.I'd run the top 12710 at about 3-6v. Expect 2-5 amps current draw.Good luck!-Rich
I have tec12712 and tec12710. Which order should I put them in? And what power supplies should I give them? Thank you
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I did not get enough precision from various speakers I tried, so I upgraded to commercial galvos available on ebay and a DAC to get 12bit precision.Here's a video:https://youtu.be/QLwdwvleztA
Hey, there are only TEC 12712 available in my local hardware store. Is it possible to do this project with two of those?
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Hey Rich, is there any way to add some code and a switch button to brake the motor? I like the design a lot but I definitely don't want the motor to be continuously running
That was helpful thanks! How is your cloud chamber coming along?
Thank you for the tips. I have done some experimentation and I am having luck using 4 10amp peltiers on the bottom at 12v and 4 9amp coolers on top at 5v. I get good results for about 20-25 minutes before my ice water heats up. I am also using a black anodized aluminum floor that seems to work about as well as duct tape over the coolers. I might try a smaller lower powered air cooled decice that can run at room temperature. Thanks again for the help!
Hi Rich, I am currently building a cloud chamber as a physics project. I would really appreciate it if you would be willing to give me some advice/guidance.I have read your inscrutable and that has been very helpful. However, the design of my cloud chamber is different than your inscrutable. I am currently using 6 (3 by 2) 12706 peltier coolers in a single layer. I have a water cooling system that uses a 5" x 4.25" x 1.5"(thick) heatsink which I made a copper enclosure for so I can pump water through it. I have a 1 gallon reservoir of ice water pumped through the water block/heatsink and then through a small radiator cooled by 3 pc fans. The chamber floor is a piece of 1/16 black garolite. The chamber dimensions are 6" x 5" and 4.5" tall with plexiglass walls and top. I did a test today and the floor didnt get cold enough (maybe -5f measured with an ir thermometer). Without the garolite floor and just the tops of the coolers exposed, some of them got down to ~15f. I never saw a supersaturated layer though, and there was alcohol pooling on the floor of the chamber.I am not sure exactly what needs to be improved but I think I will start with the coolers. I can get some 12710 coolers on Amazon try running 4 of them at 12v with 4 of the 12706's on top at 5v(or possibly both at 12v?). I am hoping that the chamber is not too large since that would be hard to change. Although I can make it shorter relatively easily.What would you recommend I do? Thank you in advance for any help. If you need more information or pictures let me know.Thanks, Ben
Hi Paul, I hope youre enjoying your weekend! I just had a quick question about which type of alcohol to use. Where I am currently they only sell 88% isopropyl at the pharmacy. I've tried this and also denatured alcohol form the states and I can't get a fine mist above my coil. I currently have a reading of approx -47 F using an infared thermometer so my temp is great, my only problem is that i get small drops of alcohol on my coil rather than a mist. Is there anything I can change in my setup for this to happen? I was thinking that I wasn't getting cold enough temps but after checking and freezing a drop of water on my coil I was sure it was cold enough. Any ideas? Perhaps my alcohol isn't pure enough? Could I perhaps use grain alcohol (everclear etc..) to get a fine mist? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers!
Rich, I like the idea of this project for a STEM and class demonstration, but I have to ask a simple question. I have both fiesta-wear, but would really like to use my collection of button sources. Do you think using higher rated sources, such as Cs-137 or Co-60 1 - 100 micro-curie sources, saturate the given construction?
I saw a post on youtube in which a cloud chamber static charge is built up using an electric bug swatter. Create a screen grid inside your chamber above the cooler. Run the ground to the bottom cooler plate and you'll get a few thousand static volts every time you push the button.
Thank you for the information Rich. I agree that the aluminium cooler block heat sink isnt big enough to remove a sufficient amount of heat from the cooler which is why I'm not getting low enough temps. Maybe a cooler block thats 2-2.5 inches thick might be able to maintain a lower temp, or perhaps more flow from a second pump might move enough heat, but at that point a copper cooler sink is much more practical. Thanks again!
I don't have TIP120 Darlington transistors at my local shop, but they do have TIP122 and TIP127 Darlington transistors in stock. Will either of them work?
I made a video of a temperature test I carried out :)
I built one following the directions exactly, and I'm having the same issue, I can only get the temp down to -7C. My water cooling is definitely working as it starts to get warm after a few minutes, but I wonder what you mean by it may not be keeping up. Is there a way to test that it's not keeping up? I've looked at the datasheets for the peltier coolers and they say that the 12710 runs at 15-17 Volts, and the 12709 runs at 15 Volts. With the top peltier running at 5V and 2.5 Amps, the power consumption is only 12.5 Watts, compared to its max of 138 Watts. Could this be the problem that I need to fix, or am I missing somthing? Thanks for your help!!
Hi, I have built a cloud chamber into an insulated wall clock with a perspex outer clock face/ surface. My query is in regards to the static component; The perspex face retains an ample static charge within the material itself and the chamber is approx. 4cm deep. Is this sufficient (with occasional recharging) to keep the atmosphere clear of dust and ions for better ion trails within the super saturated alcohol layer or will I need to implement another feature for this application? I have never been clear on the static component of this chamber and wish to avail of your expertise! Also, is there any source (other than the Ebay connection) that sells the 12710 168W Peltier cooler modules?
very helpful!i made it with MOSFETs
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