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Raspberry Pi Zero HDMI/WiFi Soldering Microscope
I second this. I don't own a 3D printer yet, but this was the information I was hoping for in this instructable.
I'd also like a copy of the code. You can send it to firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks for publishing such a great project!
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This might come in handy for a project in near future! I thought about using the embedded functions in the time.h library for avr chips, do you know of any advantages/ disadvantages?
Indeed, 18min should be more than good enough for my project. I'll experience a bit and report back if I got any interesting results. Thanks for the 'ible :)
Calculating Sunset and Sunrise for a Microcontroller
RGB LED Pixel Touch Reactive Gaming Table
That's an innovativ LED layout, it's fantastic how tightly you made them fit together!
Hey randofo, I've read the safety note but I don't think it justifies publishing a highly dangerous and possibly deadly project on instructables. Your own gif beautifully shows how easy it is to get very close to the conductors. Sure, one shouldn't do anything on the internet without a second thought, but I believe instructables shouldn't skimp on safety for the sake of simplicity for any it's own content.
*Slightly fancier design, not just bare bones like mine ;)
Indeed! 100pcs 1206 SMD LEDs are about 1,30€, thats a lot of spare parts to mess up. One might need a droplet of solder to attach it to the copper tape, though.
+1 for going the extra mile to create a reliable live trap instead of a killing device. Best luck for the contest!
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That's actually a quite clever hack, and I've already got everything I need. Thanks JG :D
Indeed, BOR is great for battery powered stuff :D It'll still run for ages.I also notice that you covered the board with some potting compound, presumably for wheather protection. May I ask what kind of stuff you've used?
Including the case and the casting it measure 13x13x36mm. :)
It does, but it also greatly reduces the runtime :(
So cool, I love every little detail about this :D
That's a cool idea, especially with those I2C and RFID supporting EEPROM chips. Unfortunately the case of this design is full metal plated, so no RF would get out :(
That's a clever way to connect an potentiometer and a button the the same I/O, very useful technique for microcontrollers with limited pins. I might borrow that for af future project :DThe attiny85 does have a 512 byte of internal EEPROM, so there's no need to add an additional IC, just a few lines of code ;)
I would like to, if there were any animations. With the exam period approaching I needed to hurry to get this out of my mind. SSo, sorry for that :/
You know you've done a good job, when the result fits together so effortlessly that it almost seems natural ;) I hope you've learned a thing or two for your future projects!
Charlieplexing is unfortunately not a low power application, for numerous reasons. Since only on LED is active at one time the current pulses must be large, which does reduce efficiency. It also forces the used of a step up converter and at higher voltage all ICs draw significant more current. Lastly the microcontroller is internally overclocked to execute the LED driver code in time.Even at a moderate use, like the demo picture in the introduction, the current consumption is somewhere between 10-25mA, an thus results in a runtime of 5-2 hours. When all LEDs are lit, the battery current increases to up to 100mA (I need to do more detailed measurements), twice the maximum rated current. I don't worry too much about that, I can replace them if needed.The coin cell batteries you are talkin...see more »Charlieplexing is unfortunately not a low power application, for numerous reasons. Since only on LED is active at one time the current pulses must be large, which does reduce efficiency. It also forces the used of a step up converter and at higher voltage all ICs draw significant more current. Lastly the microcontroller is internally overclocked to execute the LED driver code in time.Even at a moderate use, like the demo picture in the introduction, the current consumption is somewhere between 10-25mA, an thus results in a runtime of 5-2 hours. When all LEDs are lit, the battery current increases to up to 100mA (I need to do more detailed measurements), twice the maximum rated current. I don't worry too much about that, I can replace them if needed.The coin cell batteries you are talking about are rated only a few mA and their high internal resistance makes it impossible to draw more current :(. Their main benefit compared to LiPo batteries is their incredible low self discharge rate resulting in a shelf life of up to 20 years.
Many components are bought from aliexpress.com. The 0606 RGB LEDs are currently about 4€ for a pack of 100, including shipping. On the flip side you don't get guaranteed specs ie. the wavelength of the individual colours.
It's nifty idea to charge the capacitor through its own pins and disguise the as antennae. It blends in nicely with the overall look, I like that!
Light sensing bristlebot
Hey, cool to see you here :D I know I've said this before, but thank you so much for the inspiration. Honestly I was slightly worried passing you, but now I'm just glad you're as excited as I am!
LED Cube PendantView Instructable »
This is not only useful, but actual competition to the commercial product. Especially when you don't have the time for oversea shipping this might come in handy!For battery protection with removable batteries I'd properly add a function to disable the watchdog timer after a certain time below the minimum voltage to reduce the current consumption even further. Removing the batteries would then reset the chip.
The TP4056 is not a protection circuit, it's a LiPo charging IC. The protection IC, which often is on the same board is the DW01, but also exclusively designed for LiPo batteries.
This is one of the things I never knew I needed! I guess you could also track "times worn" very easily. How are the RFID tags attached to the socks? How do they feel when worn?
Beautifully executed project! It's a bummer that the technical files got lost, though :/
Stop motion paper effect with premiere!
I did like Peter Brown's epoxy & wire bracelet, but this is an even better use for the material! Did you apply the finish to the epoxy as well?
Interesting process, I honestly didn't thought a grafics card can survive such a modification, good job!Grafics cards have, like most advanced electronics, a PCB with internal layers, which draw heat away quickly. To not damage nearby components when using a heat gun, I'd suggest masking the area around the connector with krepton tape.
A year ago I salvaged a similar module, but broke it in the process of reverse engineering the connections. Be sure I get back to this when I get the chance to tear down another notebook.
Nice build. Adding the matching driver circuitry to the module is a good idea, it simplifies integration into larger projects.
Projects like this are what 3D printing is made for! The pen/ carrot turned out fantastic, it's almost an ideal replica. Well done! :D
Since the first transmitter you've published you're designs have become more sophisticated, I like that! :DWould you mind to explain the differences between your transmitters? I do have some experience with low power microcontroller based designs, but I've never done anything with RF, so I'd really appreciate your thoughts as an expert. :)Thanks for continuing to publish these 'ibles!
915MHz miniature audio spy bug
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Quite a bit of time has passed since my initial rant about the update and I have to admit it now beats the old version, great job! Besides the missing favorite counter all issues have been solved, and I honestly did not believed that this could happen at the time of writing the forum post.I'm curious what's next to come. :)
I'm happy to hear you like the build! :)
Wow, these are some of the nicest self made PCBs I've seen so far. Lately I've decided I don't want to go through the hassle, especially with double sided PCBs, so I order them straight from china. They do get close to your quality, which is fine for me :)
Thank You, this is perfect!!
I love the shape, it's very unique and modern! On the flip side I imagine it might be a bit wobbly when playing low frequency sounds. Did you notice anything like that?
This is a neat, little project! +1 for that cute speaker :)
Finally a salad which fits my taste! :D
Yes, this is exactly what I meant. There are plenty of PCB design tools and I don't want to install all of them just so I can read the files somebody uploaded.
PCB Christmas tree
This project has the potential to grow far beyond this prototype. The accuracy is already pretty good, the cost fairly low and the overall design solid.If you want people to build upon this you should release the schematic and a mechanical drawing in pdf format. It would be also good to know why these are the components you've chosen and what their important key parameters are.
How to Build a Portable, Accurate, Low Cost, Open Source Air Particle Counter
I believe that the world can use more open source medical products. Health shouldn't be a luxury. So thank you for developing (and sharing!) this beautiful device with easily available parts.From an engineering point of view I'd suggest to update the PCB you've designed to SMD parts, they are much cheaper to assamble than traditional THT parts.
Athough the overall design looks fantastic I'm slightly disappointed that theres is no fan inside the base. Without is the heatsink can handle far less power I'd guess about 10-20W at this size.
Thumbs up for using only widely available, low cost parts in your design. This is the way open source projects are meant to be!
There are no words to explain the feeling that somebody, somewhere just has build an exact replica of ones project. But it's safe to say that you made my day - and it's currently only 8:30 AM. I'm glad you like it!
Sometimes you get to wonder how the staff could have missed fantastic projects like this. Although I rarely use Legos these days I still remember the struggle with half-empty batteries and inconsistent power. Thanks for sharing this simple yet powerful fix!
Nice build! I appreciate single sided PCBs without jumper wires, they are an art on its own :)
Hi Santa,would the globe be also green for me, a 20 year old kid? I promise I've been good all year. Anyway, I don't want to break the streak, I hope this will be helpful to you:There are "touch sensor modules" (such as these https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?a&SearchText=touch sensor&isFreeShip=y&SortType=price_asc), which provide a CMOS output to signal if the button is "pressed".The voltage of a CMOS output is either 0V (GND) or the supply voltage (VCC). These modules have a very low output current (max. 4mA, I'd recommend using only 1mA), so you'll need transistor or mosfet to amplify the current. The next chapter is all about integrating either part into your circuit. The schematics have a connection labeled "enable", where they connect ...see more »Hi Santa,would the globe be also green for me, a 20 year old kid? I promise I've been good all year. Anyway, I don't want to break the streak, I hope this will be helpful to you:There are "touch sensor modules" (such as these https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?a&SearchText=touch sensor&isFreeShip=y&SortType=price_asc), which provide a CMOS output to signal if the button is "pressed".The voltage of a CMOS output is either 0V (GND) or the supply voltage (VCC). These modules have a very low output current (max. 4mA, I'd recommend using only 1mA), so you'll need transistor or mosfet to amplify the current. The next chapter is all about integrating either part into your circuit. The schematics have a connection labeled "enable", where they connect to a CMOS output. A 1W LED and a beefy 1W rated resistor should be fine in this application. In theory you can use any metal object to enlarge the touch pad, however too large objects might result in false button press detections.The last missing thing is the power supply. For a quick and simple project I'd strongly advice to use a USB battery pack, it contains all the protection circuitry you'll need.
I'm glad it works now :) It would be cool if you'd post a picture of your build!
Yes, the shield of the connector is directly soldered to the VOUT- pad for mechanical stability. Both "-" pads are connected to each other and it is safe to solder the shield of a USB connector to ground. The 5V pin of the USB connector (the very right pin with the red wire in the picture above) is indeed connected to the VIN+ pad. The wire is on the backside to be not easily ripped off.At first I thought my modules were broken, too, but it turned out you need many turns (about 10, if I remember correctly) before you notice any change in the output voltage. Unfortunately I don't remember which direction increases the output voltage, but you can try it without risking any damage.I hope this helps!
Making Your Mini Laser Engraver Safer And Better
+1 for going through the trouble to update all schematics and for the pictures of the final assembly. I really appreciate it!
Designing a Dual 40A PWM Speed Controller for Brushed Motors
A push-pull driver is essentially a current amplifier made up of two transistors, the output voltage stays the same. The most basic version does not require any additional parts and is therefore a simple, small and cheap solution. It is very well suitable for frequencies up to 100kHz or so. To switch capacitive loads (such as a mosfet gate) I'd suggest a small capacitor (10-100nF X7R) as close to the transistors as possible. Do note that this circuit is generally NOT suitable for amplifying small or precision signals. The output signal is limited by the supply voltage (VCC) to the range of 0.7V - VCC-0.7V, wich may be an issue for some low voltage circuits.
@all: Thanks for all your thoughts so far! If you have missed it, check out the parallel thread about the same issue here: https://www.instructables.com/community/User-profile-pages-have-been-changed-for-the-worst/
"Content is being downplayed like it never has been before. Most of a person's profile page is now dedicated to what other people have done. Users' profile pages--what were once pages dedicated to their stuff--are now dominated by others' stuff."This is the major issue. Great content needs a platform to live up to it.
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