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Sure, go ahaed, you're free to use it within the BY-NC-SA licence! Basically as long as you don't claim it that it's your work and you don't use it commercially, you can do whatever you want.
I did always like the lego assembly instructions, with their 3D renderings for each step, so thank you for bringing the same style to instructables! Although it's a simple project, the way all parts come neatly makes it outstanding from the crowd of 9V flashlights :)
Thanks for your input! While all units were carefully cleaned with Isopropyl alcohol, the size and torgue were widely ignored, simply because I could not change the dimensions of the connector and was told to "hand tighten" the connectors only.You seem to have a lot of experience with microwave design, can you estimate how large improvements could be?
Free Custom Screwdriver in Under Two Minutes
23GHz SMA Calibration KitView Instructable »
That's one beautiful streamlined design! Love the little "made in germany" imprint in the 3D part :D. I've ran into the "no power while biking" problem and I definitly have to make this after exam period is over. Thanks for sharing it with us :)
10€ BICYCLE USB CHARGER
+1 for actually offering instructions to build the thing you're selling!
I've tried the spring method years ago and wasn't too pleased with it. In combination with this it could work well though, I'll give it a try next time (which hopefully won't be too soon). Maybe all thats required is a sturdy spring, not the flimsy salvaged-from-pen type.
This "mixer" can only be used with devices with a build in amplifier such as computer speakers. They have a high impedance input, so no current flows across the resistors and everything fine :)the value of 1k was presumably chosen because it's common an the exact value doesn't really matter, 100 - 100k should work more or less the same.That said, the last picture is at best misleading, connecting headphones to this thing will give you an awful sound. Click the link in the last step for an improved op amp version.
Mold Making & Casting Basics
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Most Reliable Headphone FixView Instructable »
Holy S***! I've seen quite a few LED pixel and and infinity mirror tables over the last years, but this is the first build that combines both ideas. It turned out absolutely gorgeous! The visual depth makes it much more interesting than any other LED table.I can barely imagine the amount of time which must have went into this (including planning and all the other things that you can't seen), so thanks for taking the extra effort documenting the process and sharing it with us!
TicTac Fairy LightsView Instructable »
DC-DC Polarity Inverter
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DSLR Macro Photography: a Comprehensive Overview
Hahaha, yeah, indeed :D
Congrats on building a useful and pretty weather station! For how long did you use yours so far? I have the feeling the solar cell can't keep up with the power consumption of the ESP8266, especially on cloudy days.
Circuit Board Design Class
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I second this. I don't own a 3D printer yet, but this was the information I was hoping for in this instructable.
I'd also like a copy of the code. You can send it to firstname.lastname@example.org Thanks for publishing such a great project!
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This might come in handy for a project in near future! I thought about using the embedded functions in the time.h library for avr chips, do you know of any advantages/ disadvantages?
Indeed, 18min should be more than good enough for my project. I'll experience a bit and report back if I got any interesting results. Thanks for the 'ible :)
Calculating Sunset and Sunrise for a Microcontroller
RGB LED Pixel Touch Reactive Gaming Table
That's an innovativ LED layout, it's fantastic how tightly you made them fit together!
Hey randofo, I've read the safety note but I don't think it justifies publishing a highly dangerous and possibly deadly project on instructables. Your own gif beautifully shows how easy it is to get very close to the conductors. Sure, one shouldn't do anything on the internet without a second thought, but I believe instructables shouldn't skimp on safety for the sake of simplicity for any it's own content.
*Slightly fancier design, not just bare bones like mine ;)
Indeed! 100pcs 1206 SMD LEDs are about 1,30€, thats a lot of spare parts to mess up. One might need a droplet of solder to attach it to the copper tape, though.
+1 for going the extra mile to create a reliable live trap instead of a killing device. Best luck for the contest!
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That's actually a quite clever hack, and I've already got everything I need. Thanks JG :D
Indeed, BOR is great for battery powered stuff :D It'll still run for ages.I also notice that you covered the board with some potting compound, presumably for wheather protection. May I ask what kind of stuff you've used?
Including the case and the casting it measure 13x13x36mm. :)
It does, but it also greatly reduces the runtime :(
So cool, I love every little detail about this :D
That's a cool idea, especially with those I2C and RFID supporting EEPROM chips. Unfortunately the case of this design is full metal plated, so no RF would get out :(
That's a clever way to connect an potentiometer and a button the the same I/O, very useful technique for microcontrollers with limited pins. I might borrow that for af future project :DThe attiny85 does have a 512 byte of internal EEPROM, so there's no need to add an additional IC, just a few lines of code ;)
I would like to, if there were any animations. With the exam period approaching I needed to hurry to get this out of my mind. SSo, sorry for that :/
You know you've done a good job, when the result fits together so effortlessly that it almost seems natural ;) I hope you've learned a thing or two for your future projects!
Charlieplexing is unfortunately not a low power application, for numerous reasons. Since only on LED is active at one time the current pulses must be large, which does reduce efficiency. It also forces the used of a step up converter and at higher voltage all ICs draw significant more current. Lastly the microcontroller is internally overclocked to execute the LED driver code in time.Even at a moderate use, like the demo picture in the introduction, the current consumption is somewhere between 10-25mA, an thus results in a runtime of 5-2 hours. When all LEDs are lit, the battery current increases to up to 100mA (I need to do more detailed measurements), twice the maximum rated current. I don't worry too much about that, I can replace them if needed.The coin cell batteries you are talkin...see more »Charlieplexing is unfortunately not a low power application, for numerous reasons. Since only on LED is active at one time the current pulses must be large, which does reduce efficiency. It also forces the used of a step up converter and at higher voltage all ICs draw significant more current. Lastly the microcontroller is internally overclocked to execute the LED driver code in time.Even at a moderate use, like the demo picture in the introduction, the current consumption is somewhere between 10-25mA, an thus results in a runtime of 5-2 hours. When all LEDs are lit, the battery current increases to up to 100mA (I need to do more detailed measurements), twice the maximum rated current. I don't worry too much about that, I can replace them if needed.The coin cell batteries you are talking about are rated only a few mA and their high internal resistance makes it impossible to draw more current :(. Their main benefit compared to LiPo batteries is their incredible low self discharge rate resulting in a shelf life of up to 20 years.
Many components are bought from aliexpress.com. The 0606 RGB LEDs are currently about 4€ for a pack of 100, including shipping. On the flip side you don't get guaranteed specs ie. the wavelength of the individual colours.
It's nifty idea to charge the capacitor through its own pins and disguise the as antennae. It blends in nicely with the overall look, I like that!
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