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This is not only useful, but actual competition to the commercial product. Especially when you don't have the time for oversea shipping this might come in handy!For battery protection with removable batteries I'd properly add a function to disable the watchdog timer after a certain time below the minimum voltage to reduce the current consumption even further. Removing the batteries would then reset the chip.
The TP4056 is not a protection circuit, it's a LiPo charging IC. The protection IC, which often is on the same board is the DW01, but also exclusively designed for LiPo batteries.
This is one of the things I never knew I needed! I guess you could also track "times worn" very easily. How are the RFID tags attached to the socks? How do they feel when worn?
Beautifully executed project! It's a bummer that the technical files got lost, though :/
Stop motion paper effect with premiere!
I did like Peter Brown's epoxy & wire bracelet, but this is an even better use for the material! Did you apply the finish to the epoxy as well?
Interesting process, I honestly didn't thought a grafics card can survive such a modification, good job!Grafics cards have, like most advanced electronics, a PCB with internal layers, which draw heat away quickly. To not damage nearby components when using a heat gun, I'd suggest masking the area around the connector with krepton tape.
A year ago I salvaged a similar module, but broke it in the process of reverse engineering the connections. Be sure I get back to this when I get the chance to tear down another notebook.
Nice build. Adding the matching driver circuitry to the module is a good idea, it simplifies integration into larger projects.
Projects like this are what 3D printing is made for! The pen/ carrot turned out fantastic, it's almost an ideal replica. Well done! :D
Since the first transmitter you've published you're designs have become more sophisticated, I like that! :DWould you mind to explain the differences between your transmitters? I do have some experience with low power microcontroller based designs, but I've never done anything with RF, so I'd really appreciate your thoughts as an expert. :)Thanks for continuing to publish these 'ibles!
915MHz miniature audio spy bug
Leather Tools and Supplies
LEDs and Lighting Class
Quite a bit of time has passed since my initial rant about the update and I have to admit it now beats the old version, great job! Besides the missing favorite counter all issues have been solved, and I honestly did not believed that this could happen at the time of writing the forum post.I'm curious what's next to come. :)
I'm happy to hear you like the build! :)
Wow, these are some of the nicest self made PCBs I've seen so far. Lately I've decided I don't want to go through the hassle, especially with double sided PCBs, so I order them straight from china. They do get close to your quality, which is fine for me :)
Thank You, this is perfect!!
I love the shape, it's very unique and modern! On the flip side I imagine it might be a bit wobbly when playing low frequency sounds. Did you notice anything like that?
This is a neat, little project! +1 for that cute speaker :)
Finally a salad which fits my taste! :D
Yes, this is exactly what I meant. There are plenty of PCB design tools and I don't want to install all of them just so I can read the files somebody uploaded.
PCB Christmas tree
This project has the potential to grow far beyond this prototype. The accuracy is already pretty good, the cost fairly low and the overall design solid.If you want people to build upon this you should release the schematic and a mechanical drawing in pdf format. It would be also good to know why these are the components you've chosen and what their important key parameters are.
How to Build a Portable, Accurate, Low Cost, Open Source Air Particle Counter
I believe that the world can use more open source medical products. Health shouldn't be a luxury. So thank you for developing (and sharing!) this beautiful device with easily available parts.From an engineering point of view I'd suggest to update the PCB you've designed to SMD parts, they are much cheaper to assamble than traditional THT parts.
Athough the overall design looks fantastic I'm slightly disappointed that theres is no fan inside the base. Without is the heatsink can handle far less power I'd guess about 10-20W at this size.
Thumbs up for using only widely available, low cost parts in your design. This is the way open source projects are meant to be!
There are no words to explain the feeling that somebody, somewhere just has build an exact replica of ones project. But it's safe to say that you made my day - and it's currently only 8:30 AM. I'm glad you like it!
Sometimes you get to wonder how the staff could have missed fantastic projects like this. Although I rarely use Legos these days I still remember the struggle with half-empty batteries and inconsistent power. Thanks for sharing this simple yet powerful fix!
Nice build! I appreciate single sided PCBs without jumper wires, they are an art on its own :)
Hi Santa,would the globe be also green for me, a 20 year old kid? I promise I've been good all year. Anyway, I don't want to break the streak, I hope this will be helpful to you:There are "touch sensor modules" (such as these https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?a&SearchText=touch sensor&isFreeShip=y&SortType=price_asc), which provide a CMOS output to signal if the button is "pressed".The voltage of a CMOS output is either 0V (GND) or the supply voltage (VCC). These modules have a very low output current (max. 4mA, I'd recommend using only 1mA), so you'll need transistor or mosfet to amplify the current. The next chapter is all about integrating either part into your circuit. The schematics have a connection labeled "enable", where they connect ...see more »Hi Santa,would the globe be also green for me, a 20 year old kid? I promise I've been good all year. Anyway, I don't want to break the streak, I hope this will be helpful to you:There are "touch sensor modules" (such as these https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?a&SearchText=touch sensor&isFreeShip=y&SortType=price_asc), which provide a CMOS output to signal if the button is "pressed".The voltage of a CMOS output is either 0V (GND) or the supply voltage (VCC). These modules have a very low output current (max. 4mA, I'd recommend using only 1mA), so you'll need transistor or mosfet to amplify the current. The next chapter is all about integrating either part into your circuit. The schematics have a connection labeled "enable", where they connect to a CMOS output. A 1W LED and a beefy 1W rated resistor should be fine in this application. In theory you can use any metal object to enlarge the touch pad, however too large objects might result in false button press detections.The last missing thing is the power supply. For a quick and simple project I'd strongly advice to use a USB battery pack, it contains all the protection circuitry you'll need.
I'm glad it works now :) It would be cool if you'd post a picture of your build!
Yes, the shield of the connector is directly soldered to the VOUT- pad for mechanical stability. Both "-" pads are connected to each other and it is safe to solder the shield of a USB connector to ground. The 5V pin of the USB connector (the very right pin with the red wire in the picture above) is indeed connected to the VIN+ pad. The wire is on the backside to be not easily ripped off.At first I thought my modules were broken, too, but it turned out you need many turns (about 10, if I remember correctly) before you notice any change in the output voltage. Unfortunately I don't remember which direction increases the output voltage, but you can try it without risking any damage.I hope this helps!
Making Your Mini Laser Engraver Safer And Better
+1 for going through the trouble to update all schematics and for the pictures of the final assembly. I really appreciate it!
Designing a Dual 40A PWM Speed Controller for Brushed Motors
A push-pull driver is essentially a current amplifier made up of two transistors, the output voltage stays the same. The most basic version does not require any additional parts and is therefore a simple, small and cheap solution. It is very well suitable for frequencies up to 100kHz or so. To switch capacitive loads (such as a mosfet gate) I'd suggest a small capacitor (10-100nF X7R) as close to the transistors as possible. Do note that this circuit is generally NOT suitable for amplifying small or precision signals. The output signal is limited by the supply voltage (VCC) to the range of 0.7V - VCC-0.7V, wich may be an issue for some low voltage circuits.
@all: Thanks for all your thoughts so far! If you have missed it, check out the parallel thread about the same issue here: http://www.instructables.com/community/User-profile-pages-have-been-changed-for-the-worst/
"Content is being downplayed like it never has been before. Most of a person's profile page is now dedicated to what other people have done. Users' profile pages--what were once pages dedicated to their stuff--are now dominated by others' stuff."This is the major issue. Great content needs a platform to live up to it.
At first I had written:With a 1k pullup I'd suggest using 220Ω series resistors (~19.7V gate drive), maybe 330Ω (~18.0V gate drive) for a slighly larger safety margin. In general you want to set the gate voltage as high as possible to ensure the lowest R_DS,on resistance as possible.But then I realized that the 2.2k resistor will cause the mosfet to turn on slower than off, which may be more beneficial than the lower R_DS,on resistance. This is the point where my lack of experience shows...IMHO the zener diode suggested by JohnC430 isn't really required, the voltage divider will clamp the voltage anyway. The zener diode becomes important if the device should be suitable for different supply voltages.
I like your design, especially because you choose discrete components, which are either widely available or have alternatives - perfect for the community! The only thing better is the excellent step by step design walk-trough, it was a very interesting read.While I definitely wouldn't consider myself experienced - I've never actually build a motor driver - I noticed that your driver pushes the gates quite hard, they are only rated for ±20V. There's an easy fix, just add a 2.2k resistor instead of the wire in between the pcbs to build a voltage devider.An other issue might be slow switching times, which causes both mosfets to conduct at the same time. Decreasing R1-4 to 1k will speed up this process ten times, cutting the switching losses down to 1/10. In my designs I usually use ...see more »I like your design, especially because you choose discrete components, which are either widely available or have alternatives - perfect for the community! The only thing better is the excellent step by step design walk-trough, it was a very interesting read.While I definitely wouldn't consider myself experienced - I've never actually build a motor driver - I noticed that your driver pushes the gates quite hard, they are only rated for ±20V. There's an easy fix, just add a 2.2k resistor instead of the wire in between the pcbs to build a voltage devider.An other issue might be slow switching times, which causes both mosfets to conduct at the same time. Decreasing R1-4 to 1k will speed up this process ten times, cutting the switching losses down to 1/10. In my designs I usually use a push-pull driver right infront of the gate, this reduces the output impedence easily by about 200-300. If the temperatures are fine though, there's no need to worry.Do you have a project in mind which requires this driver?
Obviously yes, the longer you charge a device, the more energy will be stored. However this is only true if the batteries stillhave some energy left.
The phone may have a battery with about 8-12Wh, the 9 volt battery about 4.5Wh. The total efficiency can be estimated to about 60% (75% efficient car charger adapter, 90% efficient charging circuit within the phone, and a little loss in the cable). So this give you about 20-30% of charge.
I wasn't aware that it is this simple, I'm interested in part 2 as well!Did you try adding a decoupling capacitor near the RF module? I'd guess the step up module produces quite a bit of ripple which may interfere. A low power LDO might also help.And +1 for Realterm, used it a lot for debugging a USB virtual serial device.
Guess what, I've seen it already, it's pretty cool :D
That was embarrassing, I fixed it. Thank you.
Nice almost-single-layer design!I try to avoid the LM1117 in new desings as the datasheet specifys using at least 2x 10uF tantalum capacitors which are rather bulky. Lucky you for getting it working without them :). My personal favorite LDO for low voltage (<5.5V), low power, digital designs is the XC6206 series by torrex. They are in SOT23 packages, draw less then 10uA quiescent current, require only 2x 1uF X5R capacitors for operation and cost only a few cents on aliexpress.Apart from that this is pretty close to a perfect design, I curious what you come up next with!
I have to admit that I've never seen an LED burnt as bad as this one. This is a nice example how as little as a few cents for a LED can save an otherwise fully functional product. Great work!
If you use the same machine all outputs are often powered by the same regulator, so voltage differences won't be an issue. The "Y-cable" is only used to pput the PPTC fuse of each output in parallel to allow for twice the current :)
Agreed, I understood everything well :)On a sidenote: As a non-native speaker I call these type of batteries "coin cell batteries" or simply refer to them as "CR2016".
As you may know, USB has 4 connections, 5V and Ground for Power and D+ and D- for data.Connecting the Ground of both inputs is fine, it is the 0V reference anyway. Connecting the 5V might cause issues as each input may actually vary between 4.4V and 5.25V according to the USB specification. If the difference is larger than a few mV the current will flow INTO one output, possibly even damaging both. The data lines may only connect two devices at any time. Connecting two hosts will result in a conflict, as their send data will "overlap".
Cool PCB case for your project
A quick and easy fix, I like it :)
Looks great! Is there any particular reason for the number "80586" on the front?
Choosing a Camera
Could you explain what you mean by that?
That's great news, Sam! Thank you for taking it to the right people :) Now all that's left to do ist wait and keep the fingers crossed ?
Practical Guide to LEDs 4 -...View Instructable »
Those lightning clouds look fantastic and are a perfect application for LEDs. I'd love to see yours when you get around to make it. Best luck :)
Cool to see you here, Barry :D I'm glad you like it :)
EASY No-bake Moon Cakes with Customised Moulds
Upcycling Old Calendar to Circular Wall Art With Acrylic Frames
That's an excellent question Steve, after re-reading that step I doubt that anybody understood what I meant.VCE depends on ICE, but it can not be expressed through a formula. Instead you need to read the value from the diagram included in the datasheet. I've uploaded an annotated screenshot to the step to illustrate what I mean.In general I use the "@" to refer to a specific operating condition. If a circuit is designed to run at different voltages I may note down the current consumption like this: 21mA@5V, 16mA@3.3V. Although I like this notation a lot, I have to admit it is not commonly done this way.Actually I'm thankful if I get questions like yours. It's a chance to improve the content which may help dozens of future readers. So, thank you. :)Greetings, Dennis
Huh? I checked formatting of this page with firefox, chrome and edge, and I can't see any issues. Which browser do you use? Could you please PM me a screenshot of what is displayed to you? I'll try to fix it as soon as possible. Thanks!
This is just gorgeous. The pattern is a very unique style I've never seen before. I imagine it will be a perfect box for a variety of gifts! Unfortunately I don't have a laser cutter yet, and I'm not insane enough to cut it by hand, so I favorited for later use. Thanks you for sharing this with us :)
Laser-cut Cardboard Gift Box with Template
Actually, I was the one having trouble solving the equation ;) . Sorry for the confusion, 14.3kΩ is indeed the right value for the calculation. Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the instructable with the correct value and added the missing screenshot showing the gain value from the datasheet.I'm glad this helped you to learn something new!
This design uses a two wire version. I'm not sure if a four wire version will work, some need a signal to regulate their speed to turn on.
Indeed, this is a fantastic beginner project as it's not only simple to make but also useful to have around. Thumbs up for being the cool grandpa who teaches the next generation to make stuff!
I guess it's pretty common among us makers to make or own gear when we discover how pricy the professional devices can be. Thumbs up for speed regulation, that can be pretty handy when working with dust-like parts such as 0402!
I was about to mention clearance distances, but is mod in particular is incredible well thought through and the risk of an electric shock should be very low. I'd not trust that coverhanging capacitor though, the optocuppler is there for a reason. I'd at least add a piece of krepton tape for better insolation.
Believe me, I'd rather write than doing all of the other things I have to. Unfortunatly there is often no choice.Comments like this give me the motivation I need to keep going. Thank you!
Very cool to see you here, victor :D Thanks!
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