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I'm very sorry, but I have no experience of any other motor, so I can't help. Mine had four internal terminals not three, so I'm afraid I'm not going to be of any use to you!Best wishes - I hope you sort it out.
Wiring up a Brook Crompton Parkinson Motors single-phase lathe motor 3 terminals A,AZ,Z ..does the Z=blue to body is this just left with only the blue from body or do i connect the body earth to it and the g/y to the body and blue =plug to A=black body and y/r=AZ to plug brown is this the correct please . thanks
Thread Cutting - Internal and External on a Myford ML10 Lathe
3D Printing Class
Printed Circuit Board Production using UV Nail Curing Lamp
Wiring up a Brooke Crompton single-phase lathe motor (Myford Lathe)
Dismantling a Brook Crompton AC motor (from a Myford Lathe)
Engraving on the lathe - radial markings, scales, dials Myford ML10
Extracting a broken threading tap
"The Brain" an external hard-drive and light sculpture
DIY Ways Wiper for swarf protection on a Myford ML10 Lathe
You might be right, but lots of 3D printed projects have to be made to quite tight tolerances. For example, separate parts need to fit together, and components have to mesh together, etc. The models created by 123D are very precise - dimensions are entered to three decimal places - that's to one thousandth of a mm! (I was surprised to learn that Sketchup has an absolute limit on its resolution to 1/64th inch - about 0.4mm - which is interesting for 3D printing).The attached photos show a shower door runner designed in 123D. The hole is a sliding fit on a 5mm rod - it is drawn at 5.1mm diameter. In measuring the one I had to copy, I used a digital caliper and measured to 0.05mm (which is easily achieved), so some precision is needed, even for every-day objects.Many thanks for your interest. Best wishes.
Googling for answers to the same question, I keep coming to this Instructable!It prompted me to sort out a technique which can be used. AutoDesk 123D may have evolved since the question was posed; but here is a link to a video which shows my attempt. It could be done in well under the 10 minutes of the video!I bet there are better ways to do it! Hope this helps somebody.
Quick and easy tee slot bolts for a Myford ML10 lathe
Lathe Spindle Handle for a Myford ML10
Excellent description! I'm just about to make one of these for my own ML10, and thought I'd share this easy tip for successful cross-drilling of round bar which I was given about 40 years ago. Step 1 - put a short rod (about half an inch will do) of the same diameter of round bar into the lathe chuck Step 2 - using a pilot drill bit in the tailstock drill through the centre of the rod to form a guide cylinder. Step 3 - using the jaws of your drill press vice, or bench vice, tighten the jaws to clamp the guide cylinder at right angles to the main rod to be drilled Step 4 - pass the same pilot drill bit through the hole in the guide cylinder and drill into the surface of the main round bar. The clamping action of the vice jaws will prevent any movement of the drill bit on the surface of the bar, and you are guaranteed to be on the exact diameter as by drilling the pilot in the lathe the hole will be in the exact centre. You can vary this technique to make guide cylinders for drilling off-centre holes too.
I've had to remove both large and small taps after they broke off at surface level. For the large one ( 1-1/4" bolt tap ) I used a very dull air chisel bit against a small piece of aluminum bar. And stopped several times to use compressed air to blow out anythingthat would come out.
I held the aluminum and chisel joint in one hand (with glove) it gets very hot. the other end of the aluminum rotated the tap.With small ones, I turn the work piece upside down if possible and hit it with lots of air before trying to turn the tap back out. Once you get some of the small chips out of the way the tap has room to move back out. Again, and aluminum punch (home made of course) works best because it catches the sharp edges of the broken tap.
Teaspoonful?? Auto correct you are the bane of my existence! Should be tapping. - jprobst2
As my late Dad used to say "Slolee slolee catchee monkee! Slolee slolee tappee holee". Aluminium is a b.... to tap... - Bert Kirsten
Someone above mentioned Tap Magic as a lubrication solution, and it is a very good one but make sure if you are teaspoonful aluminum to use the Tap Magic made for aluminum. When I worked at a plant that had primarily aluminum parts that's what we used, like I said, never broke one in aluminum. As others have said speed, torque, improper use of the tool in general, all contribute broken taps. I figured if you have a lathe and can machine a part you probably know exactly why the tap broke. Most of the time when I've broken one is because I was into much of a hurry, lacked the proper drill bit, or was using a Chinese tap. - jprobst2
I love the"outside the square" thinking you have shown here. There are not enough people applying their mind like you have. Well done. - ReeceS6
That is an interesting method, but the best possible advice is don't break your tap ! Overdrill the hole by one size, make sure your tap is fresh and cuts well, make a little chamfer to help aim the tap, use a tap guide to make sure it goes in straight, use a good tapping product(tapmagic, etc.) to help you, and clear the chips regularly. If you DO have a problem and can't burn it out, drilling a hole and plugging it is a good repair. One more thing - know the difference between gun tap and plug tap and bottoming tap and use the appropriate style. Yes, I've broken a few :) - RichardW110
The drilled hole is to smallNot enough lubricantOnly turning the tap clockwise <--- that the most common problem.You should turn cw a little bit then ccw to cut of the grinded metal. Continue that way in small steps and u will never broken a tap again. - nextuz
I have an Aqulisa 405 manual mixer valve with a 2t pump supplied by a cold water tank in the loft and a conventional hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard .it has performed trouble free for over 10 years.last year I had an intermittent fault where the hot water flow was not consistent ,a plumber replaced the cartridge and it was fine,now I have the same symptoms where you have to move the temp lever right over to hot to get any hot water but then there is reduced pressure if you leave it running long enough the pressure eventually returns to normal so there isn't a blockage,any suggestions ?
I've broken many taps (never in aluminumn) and have always ended up punching them out our breaking them into smaller pieces. I like your solution, a bit time consuming, but for what you were working with, probably the best solution at hand.
Safely controlling mains powerline sockets using electronics
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