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The motors not the wires.
I had the same problem, Just flip them around so they turn in the same direction. when car is moving forward.
What seems to be the problem and yes Mine ran fine.
I don't recall having trouble connecting the wires. Just make sure you connect the +5vcc and ground correctly before powering up so you don't fry anything. You can also look at the codes also to see what pins are defined for what.
I connected the LED's left over digital pins. As for the 12V led I wrote one pin LOW to turn it on and connected the positive to the battery box.
Thank you Eric, This is just how I have seen it done many times. I have also built many things with the Atmega 328P and have wired it up with the AREF to +5V. I will take this into consideration next time I build something. Thank you!
Thanks for the tip! Would rubbing alcohol work? I use it all the time to clean CPU's, GPU's and heatsinks before applying thermal compound. I also heard you can clean PCB's with rubbing alcohol to remove dust and dirt and it won't hurt anything if you let it dry over night. Never tried it though.
That will do the trick. Good luck and be safe.
Try a different wire and practice.
Just keep the tip on about the middle of the stripped part of the wire. If you have it right next to the insulation you might start to melt it. If your soldering iron has to much power you will melt the insulation before you have enough time to solder a joint. Its better to have a soldering iron slightly less powerful then it should be rather then a soldering iron with to much power. As I talked about above there are thermostatically controlled soldering station out there. There are I little bit of money. I don't know you budget but if you are going to be soldering a lot you might want to consider getting one. You can control the temp of the soldering iron so you will never have it to hot and if its not hot enough you can always turn up the temp. I have a 60 Watt one and I have it set t...see more »Just keep the tip on about the middle of the stripped part of the wire. If you have it right next to the insulation you might start to melt it. If your soldering iron has to much power you will melt the insulation before you have enough time to solder a joint. Its better to have a soldering iron slightly less powerful then it should be rather then a soldering iron with to much power. As I talked about above there are thermostatically controlled soldering station out there. There are I little bit of money. I don't know you budget but if you are going to be soldering a lot you might want to consider getting one. You can control the temp of the soldering iron so you will never have it to hot and if its not hot enough you can always turn up the temp. I have a 60 Watt one and I have it set to 350C 662F most of the time unless I'm working on something delicate. Just keep in mind when buying a soldering iron solder melts around 188C 370F so if you are buying a 40 watt soldering iron that can reach temps of 482C 900F with a small thin tip it will take longer to heat a wire then one with a big or wide tip. More surface contact will transfer heat quicker. If you can't afford or want a thermostatically controlled soldering station I would stick with a soldering iron between 40-60 Watt with interchangeable/replaceable tips.
I would say any gauge bigger then 8 gauge you should get a higher wattage. I have soldered 10 gauge wire with my old 44 watt soldering iron.
Don't heat the components to much you can damage them. Some flux wouldn't hurt if you are using a old board. Make sure you double check your work before applying any power. As for the wire it could be dirty. Did you try cutting off the end and striping? You want the wire to have a copper shin to it. Heat the wire up while adding a little solder once you see the solder flowing to the wire you add more solder to cover the exposed wire. then let cool before putting any stress on the joint.
Between 40-60 Watt should work great. Much more could heat the wire to much.
Yea, I could add a something about Ohm's law.
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I haven't tried to replace one before. So I'm not sure what kind of board it on. Some times adding more solder will help heat the connection up better. You can heat one pin and gently pry and let the joint cool and move on to the next. You can also buy a de-soldering pump. That will suck the solder off the connection but again sometimes you need to add solder if its a small pin with out a lot of solder. You can also use a heat gun but make sure you can set it some it doesn't go much hotter then 370F (188C). I hope this helps you. Let me know how you made out.
This flashlight uses a AA battery to power a 7W LED. The circuit works like a joule thief.
Your welcome. I hope you enjoy.
Thats a good point I forgot about that. I was doing this in my head and trying to think of everything with out making this overwhelming for a beginner. I was thinking about doing another one soon and adding some tips and surface mount work. If you have any tips I would be glad to hear them. If I don't already know them I would love to learn some!
To me It looks like you might need to replace it. It looks like your ferrite broke. If thats true Me method would work. The induction would be much lower if you tried to glue it back together. You would be better off finding a salvaged part and maybe rewinding it.
Yes I know I need more voltage to run the blue LED over a red LED. Bypassing the one Resistor is fine on this mouse. This is my forth one I have done. My other 3 are still working great. My first one I did I use every day for the past 3-4 years with out any problems.
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It was a fun little project. I didn't use a air compressor and it still works pertty good.
Comes with a lot of great parts to make many projects with.
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