# rschoenm

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• rschoenm completed the lessons Leavening Agents, How Baking Works, Fats, Eggs and 5 others in the class Science of Baking1 week ago
• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Easy Hexagonal Wood Post from a 2 by 41 week ago

SketchUp MakeFile > Export > 2D Graphic

The largest regular hexagon (six equal sides) you can get out of a 4 by 4 has sides that are 1.75 inches long; see attached image, right side.If you don’t mind stretching the hexagon you can get four sides that are about 2 inches long, and two sides that are just short of 1.5 inches; see image, left side. Other six-sided polygons are possible if you don’t need 120 degree angles all around.To make a regular hexagon from the 4 by 4, the diameter D = 3.5 inches. Start with the blank milled to 3.5 inches by 3.03 inches, then follow the Instructable.

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Easy Hexagonal Wood Post from a 2 by 41 week ago

Hello, for a 4 by 4 I would rather cut it into an octagon like this:https://www.instructables.com/id/Easiest-way-to-make-octagons-for-wood-turning-NO-/This leaves you with a little more wood than a hexagonal cross section.

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Infinite Band Clamp1 month ago

Yes, cork pads/sticks would work, and so would short pieces of vinyl/rubber tubing. As with any clamp, you want to protect your work piece with pads or scrap pieces of wood to prevent it from marring or denting.

• rschoenm's instructable Puzzle: Squaring a Triangle's weekly stats: 2 months ago
• 8,079 views
89 favorites
• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix2 months ago

Yes, it would be complicated.

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix2 months ago

That might work somewhat, but the tube would be cut by the blade along with the dowel. You would still have support on the uncut portion of the dowel.

• Very nice project and great write-up. I especially like your paragraph on making these things for people you love and how you would go broke if you tried to make them for profit - well put and my sentiment exactly! It certainly applies to my last project as well: https://www.instructables.com/id/Nested-Helix/Now I need to make an ‘Impossible Keychain’! Keep up the good work!

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix2 months ago

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix3 months ago

Thanks for your comment.I am working on an Instructable for the Spiral Cutting Jig but it will take me a while. I want to rebuild my jig and document the build. For the programming I am using the Arduino IDE, and the examples that come with the Big Easy Stepper Motor Driver get you 95% to your final program. It does not involve gcode, you basically tell the stepper motors: turn some steps on the spindle motor, wait, turn the dowel motor one step, wait, repeat! LinuxCNC and gcode should work fine as well.I build the ‘gear box’ - i.e. the motor/pulley mounts from 3mm clear acrylic cut on a laser cutter. The jig uses several brass bushings, stainless steel couplings, timing belt(10”) and pulleys, and 1/4” nuts and bolts. The jig header is 3/4” baltic birch pl...see more »Thanks for your comment.I am working on an Instructable for the Spiral Cutting Jig but it will take me a while. I want to rebuild my jig and document the build. For the programming I am using the Arduino IDE, and the examples that come with the Big Easy Stepper Motor Driver get you 95% to your final program. It does not involve gcode, you basically tell the stepper motors: turn some steps on the spindle motor, wait, turn the dowel motor one step, wait, repeat! LinuxCNC and gcode should work fine as well.I build the ‘gear box’ - i.e. the motor/pulley mounts from 3mm clear acrylic cut on a laser cutter. The jig uses several brass bushings, stainless steel couplings, timing belt(10”) and pulleys, and 1/4” nuts and bolts. The jig header is 3/4” baltic birch plywood, the body is particle board and MDF(because I had some - baltic birch would be better throughout), and maple cross pieces. It would be great if you could share your Mathematica program as a stand-alone app; don’t know if that’s possible.Here is a link to a movie clip showing the vibration/flexing, both in real time and slo-mo. https://youtu.be/TZGwNO5fTgAIt’s hard to avoid vibration, and it becomes worse for longer cuts and smaller (tighter) pitch. The dowel in the movie is 22mm by 30mm with a pitch of 1.5 inches (Yes, I know, I’m mixing units!), being cut along its center axis. It turned out ok despite the flexing. If you try to dampen the vibration with you fingers you probably make things worse by deviating the cut, and the pieces will not unscrew. So I ignore the vibration. Some cuts have very little vibration, it depends on the wood and wood grain, the lamination, the pitch, and the diameter and offset from center. And sometimes things fail.

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix3 months ago

You could apply all the suggestions you made in the design of the cutting jig. Cutting a 2 inch diameter dowel may be beyond the scroll saw capability; on the other hand if you had a hollow core like you are suggesting that might work. You would have to think about how to mount the two ends securely. You will still run into problems with vibration/flexing. Essentially you are cutting a ‘spring’ that likes to flex.The best support for a round dowel is a long board with a v-groove. Mount that board between the scroll saw table and the dowel. Obviously, that will not work for square dowels.If you construct a table leg with a metal rod in the center you can stack a bunch of 5” to 10” spiral sections around it to achieve the length you want; the joints would be pretty...see more »You could apply all the suggestions you made in the design of the cutting jig. Cutting a 2 inch diameter dowel may be beyond the scroll saw capability; on the other hand if you had a hollow core like you are suggesting that might work. You would have to think about how to mount the two ends securely. You will still run into problems with vibration/flexing. Essentially you are cutting a ‘spring’ that likes to flex.The best support for a round dowel is a long board with a v-groove. Mount that board between the scroll saw table and the dowel. Obviously, that will not work for square dowels.If you construct a table leg with a metal rod in the center you can stack a bunch of 5” to 10” spiral sections around it to achieve the length you want; the joints would be pretty much invisible. Let me know if you make any and how they turn out.

• rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix's weekly stats: 3 months ago
• 62,155 views
395 favorites
• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix3 months ago

The motors are:Stepper Motor - 125 oz.in (200 steps/rev, 600mm Wire)Motor Drivers:Big Easy DriverArduino Uno Compatible:SparkFun RedBoard - Programmed with ArduinoAll from Sparkfun.

No, I have not tried that but I will. I have thought about using foam pipe insulation (tubes) to wrap around a square dowel to dampen vibrations while cutting. Will try that later.

Thanks Steve, your original work inspired me.

If you do that, would you get an inner and outer spiral, or just the inner one? Could you cut more than one spiral from the same dowel?

• rschoenm commented on rschoenm's instructable Nested Helix3 months ago

Unfortunately I don’t. It takes a bit of time to make each of these, from laminating the blank dowels, to cutting the spiral, to finishing. If I charged for my time at a reasonable hourly rate the finished spirals would be too expensive. Maybe I try to sell some on ETSY; I’ll let you know if I do.

• rschoenm posted an instructable Nested Helix3 months ago
• rschoenm enrolled in Concrete Class5 months ago