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If you built a rig to roll the bottle back & forth, rather than move the tray back and forth, that might be suitable for you.
That's a gorgeous job. I love seeing old restored equipment get a new lease on life! I love that you left the original logo on the front - I would have been sad to see it go. If you had to take it off it would have been a great idea to take some pictures of it first, then you could stencil/decal/whatever to re-make it.
I'm glad yours was missing parts and maybe broken. I would have cried a little if you sacrificed a working one!
I am pretty sure i have a satellite that actually works :)
You could make some freestanding shelves. Or add some legs, change the dimensions a bit and turn it into a coffee table.
If you cover the bottom of that decorative item with felt the key *should* still work, and in the off chance that someone knocks the thing over, they won't notice the big magnet and think, "Huh, I wonder what this is for?"
You could mount your shelf like this: http://www.instructables.com/id/No-Holes-No-Glue-Bathroom-Shelf/
This reminds me a heck of a lot of the principles behind the Hilsch vortex tube: http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Hilsch-vortex-tube/ the only difference is that the drink is only travelling to the edge of the can, rather than down a tube.
I'm guessing this probably comes out to about 3-4x more than even the nice bar clamps you pick up at <insert box home improvement store or local hardware store here>. Unless you already have the threaded rod and other metal bits just sitting around.That being said, I suspect that this is also *much* stronger than a typical bar clamp as well.
Well, each tooth should have one angle, and the one next to it should have another. Presumably they alternate like that - if not there's going to be some pattern to it.
I made it! I gave it a try and it kind of worked - my magnets were pretty small and I only used 4 of them... and I was in a rush to publish this. But I definitely have some ideas for improving it :)
This is the exact comment that I was going to make. If you look at the saw guides that Jay Bates has (at least if he is who I'm thinking of) then you'll see that they're a large circular magnet embedded flush into the surface of the guide. Yours isn't circular (obviously) so it's a little harder to use something like forstner bits, but a chisel would work just fine. Alternatively if you have forstner bits and a drill press/vice you could easily use that to remove the material you need. And now that you have a square guide that works you could totally use it to bootstrap yourself a hand saw guide version 2 :)
Roy Underhill has one of these classic miter boxes. It's sweet sweet metal and is absolutely gorgeous. Also if you're a woodworker and you don't know who Roy Underhill is, go find episodes of the Woodwright's shop *now*. Also check out his book, Kruschev's Shoe, which is about presenting material to audiences and is so good.
You might be surprised at the length of lumber you can put in a smaller car - especially if it has rear windows. I could put 8' 2x4s in my Hyundai Sonata easy:- Lay the front seat down and open the back passenger side window.- Slide wood towards the front passenger floorboard, then push into the car.- Lather, rinse, repeat.I think I got more than 6 or 9 2x4s in there and then some.
Ah, incision makes a lot more sense. I also assumed the OP meant kerf of the blade, which is the width of the cut that the blade makes. I was guessing that they wanted a thinner kerf than their normal table saw provided.
You can make a steel rivet by taking a nail, cutting the point flat with a hacksaw, and then just using a peening hammer (or just regular hammer) to spread out the other side. It works really well. You can make your own rivets with brass rod in a similar fashion. If there are hobby stores around you, they typically carry brass rod.
Also note that you could toss down a sheet of MDF on top. Maybe with some countersink screws or dowels or something to hold it in place. MDF can take a beating (literally, try smacking it with a hammer. It won't dent up nearly as much as the pine, if at all), and could be really easy to replace.
If you can't find/afford a variable speed motor, you can use different pulley configurations to change the speed.
That looks like it's strictly for C or D cell batteries.You can buy magnets from wish.com for really cheap (but the pictures often look like they're a lot larger, so make sure you've got a ruler/calipers handy when you're buying them)
That's what I mean by lore. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brown_recluse_spider..."Around 49% of brown recluse bites do not result in necrosis or systemic effects" Recluses are very disinterested in biting you. Most of the photos that you see on the internet blaming spiders are probably MRSA. http://www.abqjournal.com/431736/documented-fatal-...Google Images is not science.
while piercing the bark *does* cause stress to the tree, drilling is definitely the least-invasive operation. Drilling an appropriate sized hole for your bolt will prevent cracking aroudn the bolt, and effectively what happens is it turns into wood, instead of living tree, with tree around it.That being said, I still plan on making a tree fort (i.e. standing on timbers instead of being connected to the tree), rather than a tree house, as I'm not confident enough that I won't totally kill my trees :)
Spiders are your friends - they eat all the nasty bugs that you don't like. And unless you live in Australia, there are maybe two spiders with medically significant bites - the Black Widow (which prefers to be closer to the ground anyway) and the Brown Recluse (which, despite much lore, hasn't been proven to have a medically significant bite [any more than say, a bee sting, which can certainly kill people who are allergic to that sort of thing]). See /r/spiders on reddit for more information :)
I don't know if they do any kind of sealant around the bolt, like the kind I've seen painted on limbs that have been cut off due to storm damage, but that's pretty much the worst part of building a treehouse like this. By drilling holes, rather than driving nails into the tree, you eliminate splintering, so effectively what happens is that the area around the bolt dies and goes from living tree into... wood. Just plain ol' wood. Surrounded by living tree. And the wood is plugged up by the bolt. If you use nails, you're splitting the tree which provides a lot more room for parasites to enter the tree.As for movement, I'm not a structural engineer, but just taking a gander at these photos it *looks* like what's actually going to happen is the treehouse structure will practically eliminate...see more »I don't know if they do any kind of sealant around the bolt, like the kind I've seen painted on limbs that have been cut off due to storm damage, but that's pretty much the worst part of building a treehouse like this. By drilling holes, rather than driving nails into the tree, you eliminate splintering, so effectively what happens is that the area around the bolt dies and goes from living tree into... wood. Just plain ol' wood. Surrounded by living tree. And the wood is plugged up by the bolt. If you use nails, you're splitting the tree which provides a lot more room for parasites to enter the tree.As for movement, I'm not a structural engineer, but just taking a gander at these photos it *looks* like what's actually going to happen is the treehouse structure will practically eliminate the movement in the lower part of the tree, due to the rigidity of the treehouse. The upper part of the tree will sway in the wind, but that's what trees do, I don't see anything to be worried about there. The only way that the tree would be ripped out of the ground is if the treehouse load is pulling from side to side - if you look at this one they're supporting the treehouse with multiple trees, which will definitely increase the stability. Also, another point to remember is that living trees are *heavy* - I think it's something like 150lbs per 16 inches with a 12 inch diameter. Depending on the size of your treehouse and your tree, you may not even be adding another half of the weight of the top of the tree.All that being said, I'm still going to use pressure-treated lumber and just build a fort when I do (unless I had a bunch of woods on my property and I wasn't too worried about losing a couple of trees, worst case scenario),
Several of the missionaries that have been through my ward have worn this (and other) creative knots :)
Borax has some toxicity - I believe it's a lot harder to find it in the UK too, in any kind of weight
That's definitely a rat trap - not a mousetrap. Nice collection :)
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