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I am totally confused. Those three lines are NOT in the ino I posted in this instructable, so there is DEFINITELY something wrong!Also, you need to add Time.h, the DSC3232.h library and Lowpower to your sketchbook/libraries. TimeLib I don't know, so probably it won't work.Changing beeper and LED is fine as long as you change the defines of course :-)
mark,First of all: cool you made it!Second: picture (or video) or it didn't happen ;-)So if it is in normal mode it tracks "something" too (you're looking at a subtle step every minute to two minutes or so), noticable if you keep it in your hand. At least that would exclude a clock problem.I suspect a problem with your EEPROM, so it reverts to the same object. To check that, set an object, then reboot. It should beep the same number of times (and the same for the ocation index).If that doesn't help, please document the changes you made (processor, pin usage, RT clock, sogtware, etc etc), as it is happily sitting next to me doing it's thing very dilligently.
Thanks. I used this library https://github.com/JChristensen/DS3232RTC
Basic Mood Light With Minimal Parts ATTiny85 and WS2812B Pixel
I completely understand why you did what you did! In fact, my own home automations works that way. But I will change it to MQTT ;-) Thing is, MQTT is really easy and completely developed for low (or high cost) bandwidth: your problem. It originates in oil pipe monitoring, using very expensive satellite links!MQTT is not WiFi bound at all, that is really a misunderstanding. It uses TCP/IP and that is it. One you have your weather station (doorbell, Solar installation, whatever!) up and running and publishing data, you can have 0, 1 or 10.000 subscribers to that data without having to worry about needless polling or the scalability of your transmitter. And the configurable dashboards provided by most broker platforms are fantastic. There are also a lot of MQTT fed dashboards available as ...see more »I completely understand why you did what you did! In fact, my own home automations works that way. But I will change it to MQTT ;-) Thing is, MQTT is really easy and completely developed for low (or high cost) bandwidth: your problem. It originates in oil pipe monitoring, using very expensive satellite links!MQTT is not WiFi bound at all, that is really a misunderstanding. It uses TCP/IP and that is it. One you have your weather station (doorbell, Solar installation, whatever!) up and running and publishing data, you can have 0, 1 or 10.000 subscribers to that data without having to worry about needless polling or the scalability of your transmitter. And the configurable dashboards provided by most broker platforms are fantastic. There are also a lot of MQTT fed dashboards available as smartphone Apps (I use android "MQTT Dash").Yes, I know I am bitten by the MQTT virus ;-) It is really cool and perfect for these kinds of projects. Here is a link to a pretty good introduction. http://www.hivemq.com/blog/mqtt-essentials-part-1-introducing-mqttAgain, great project, thanks for sharing!
You're welcome (Auto format)!Yes, two capacitors in series, with vastly different values, behave just like the smallest one. So it doesn't matter WHERE you put that single capacitor (amplifier or DC offset part), but one is enough and it can have the lower value of the two.
Great job!!If I can make a kind suggestion, you might want to have a look at MQTT for your next "remote" project. Good references in i.e. Adafruit and once you have wrapped your head around the concept, you can make customized html / widget based dashboards in absolutely no time. Or even respond to the weather with devices.
Great instructable, andyes, welcome!! If I may suggest some improvements please (very tiny):The 10uF in your DC offset part is useless. The capacitor in the output stage of the amplifier takes care of that.In the Arduino IDE, press auto fomat (ctrl-T) often. It will make your life so much easier!
Homemade 3 Axis Gimbal
Thank you! Knowledge, just on the level of "how things work", gravity and all, teaching kids about the size of things and motions. But nothing about i.e. sidereal time, math of elliptic trajectories and all. In all honesty, I borrowed all hard core math from Paul Schlyrer.
Arduino Fingerprint Door Lock (with Keypad and LCD)
Connect your thing to the cloud for less than £4.
PVC Hookup Wire Storage
Impossible Nail in Wooden Block
Great Instructable. You might want to complement the charger with a controlled discharge to check on the cells and add longevity. See for example my Instructable https://www.instructables.com/id/Li-Ion-Discharger
Hot glue faux cast iron weld beads
Coloring Epoxy With Laser Toner
Thank you. This was a really fun project to do. I (re)learned a ton on vector math and astronomy along the way.
Two axis star trackerView Instructable »
Great minimalistic project! Now (I am just teasing a bit) some deep sleep mode and this project can be "gardenized". I would expect, though not sure, that if it is possible, a thorough reconnect to the Wifi is probably needed.
You're welcome! I posted the project I mentioned. https://www.instructables.com/id/Star-Finder/
Li-Ion dischargerView Instructable »
Great instructable! I understand you use this to avoid under-voltage while flying. If you also want to watch your battery under a tiny load, you might want to put a lot of emphasis on extreme low power usage and avoid a separate power supply, so actually self-measuring Vcc. Here is an example. Mind you, same idea, but different application.https://www.instructables.com/id/Lithium-Cell-Protection-in-Arduino-Projects/
Lithium Cell protection in ...View Instructable »
Indeed! Thank you for your kind comment.
Exactly right. And that is also why I needed that blue switch."On", as in, capacitor to RST connected: use for sketch uploading to the ATtiny85."Off", use for uploading ISP or HV sketch to the Nano.
Star finderView Instructable »
I made this variant. The top side of the ZIF socket acts as a normal programmer, the bottom sie being this HV programmer. The only thing to o is to reprogram the Nano and off you go. The little switch is to enable the "do not reset" capacitor, needed for normal programming.
May I suggest a few additional power savers?- Consider using an arduino pro mini, as it doesn't have a usb-2-serial chip using power;- Remove all permanent-on LEDs;- Remove the power regulator from the UNO and use a LiPo 3.7 volt cell instead of 9 volts;- Use the LowPower.h library to send the processor in a deep sleep in the Loop() most of the time;- Power down the I2C interface while asleep (I will post a project that used this used shortly)Using all these techniques you can make this thing run for a year on one battery!
Simple and cheap Fuse Doctor for Attiny
Straightening wire and beyondView Instructable »
I am afraid this instructable is not antirely clear. You have to use the "Embed Video" tab it seems, then it works.Choose the +Add button, then select choose video, then paste the link.
Nix that please. A 7555 is using much less energy, but requires higher voltage. I recreated this project using a ATtiny85 that's 99.9% of the time in sleep mode and lasts 100 days on a single 3V CR2032 coin cell. 8 year old son of a friend of mine drove the teacher bonkers but kept his mouth shut!
SAE J1772 EV charger checkerView Instructable »
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