(for science exam)
Asked by leo rox ur sox 8 years ago
I want to manufacture pvc solvent cement.can anybody guide me?
I want to use this for making full color bumper stickers on vinyl. etc
Ok, so I'm having some trouble finding solvents in quantities of under 5 gallons (5 is too much, and for this project 1 gallon is too) that arent acetone, MEK, or xylene (home depot and lowes carry those). Specifically I need Perchloroethylene because thats the solvent that E6000 glue is made with and is the glue I want to thin out. The datasheet indicates that 1,1,1-Trichloroethane, Cyclohexane, Methylene chloride, Chlorothane NU, Chevron solvent 1100, gasoline, Propyl acetate, or Toluene will also dissolve it, but I'd really like to stick with its manufactured solvent. I presume it would have some sort of pricey hazmat shipping charges or the necessity of some sort of licence and I would rather pick it up, so where (or who) can I order some from in the Detroit area?
Asked by The Ideanator 7 years ago
Hey all,A few years ago I used to see MEK (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) in local hardware stores all the time. Don't know what happened, whether OSHA, or EPA, or some other .gov busybody is responsible, but now it's nowhere to be found... and I've finally run out.Any leads on where I could purchase a jug of it for a good price?P.S. In case anybody is wondering, I have some dried-out liquid electrical tape that uses MEK as the solvent. I am hoping to resurrect it. I suppose I could try acetone, but I'm afraid if it goes wrong it could permanently wreck my mix. :P
Asked by PS118 2 months ago
I have instructions for extracting pure essential oil from plant material using butane. The problem I have with it is that at the end, the butane is vented. I just don't feel right about venting unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. I've been looking at glass lab equipment (distillation tubes, connectors, etc). I have no background in chemistry, but it seems to me it shouldn't be too difficult to put something together using standard glass lab equipment to capture, distill and reuse the butane. Butane boils at 31 degrees Fahrenheit and is heavier than air. At the end of the process, the oil is scraped from the bottom of a drying dish. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put something like this together? Thanks
Posted by GlobalVillageIdiot 8 years ago
Hi,I have a lot of impure essential oil that has a lot of water in it and was thinking about ways to get some of the water out. Would salting out with Epsom salts work? I've seen an Instructable where a nonpolar solvent is used to extract nepecatalone https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Kitty-Crack%3a--ultra-potent-catnip-extract/ would one be able to use a solvent that is immiscible (I swear that's a word) in water to get the constituents that are not water soluble out of the water?Also can common solvents (I'm thinking alcohol, acetone, and toulene) be salted out to increase the concentration? Would this work with dilute hydrochloric acid?-mitch
Posted by fearofsquirrels 9 years ago
I have instructions for extracting pure esential oil from plant material using butane. The problem I have with it is that at the end, the butane is vented. I just don't feel right about venting unburned hydrocarbons into the atmosphere. I've been looking at glass lab equipment (distillation tubes, connectors, etc). I have no background in chemistry, but it seems to me it shouldn't be too difficult to put something together using standard glass lab equipment to capture, distill and reuse the butane. Butane boils at 31 degrees farinhite and is heavier than air. At the end of the process, the oil is scraped from the bottom of a drying dish. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to put something like this together? Thanks
Asked by GlobalVillageIdiot 8 years ago
I'd like to remove the logo/printing from plastic shopping bags to use in a prop. I imagine there's some solvent that might do it, anyone know what it might be? Thanks
Asked by chambrey 8 years ago
I've worked with white schedule 40 PVC on plumbing projects and the occasional gardening project. I've always used the purple solvent and glue you showed above. Recently, I've wanted to use some PVC conduit, the gray kind. Can I use the same solvent for this pipe? My big box store has solvent for the conduit on the shelf near the pipe. Do I really have to use a different solvent/glue product?
Asked by Cueball21 1 year ago
Hi gang, I know CA glue (Krazy glue, Cyanoacrylate) is solvent based, and inhaling the solvent is bad for you, but how safe is it after the glue cures? As I understand it, after curing the glue is basically a plastic. Can I use it in a baby's crib (Assuming it's allowed to cure)? Thanks!
Asked by Morgantao 3 years ago
I was going to buy some propan-2-ol (isopropyl alcohol) to clean my laser cutter lenses. Before I went and bought some, I found a small bottle of propan-1-ol (so, I'm a hoarder!). I know they have different structures, and slightly different chemistries, but I can't find anything about their comparative properties as cleaning solvents. Will the 1-ol do the job of cleaning laser-gunk off lenses and mirrors, will it do nothing, or will it damage them? I'd rather gather your wisdom before I risk having to buy new optics...
Asked by Kiteman 1 year ago
Asked by Rayonger 4 years ago
I am in charge of a not for profit and don't want to pay the $50 set-up fee for getting our logo onto 30-40 travel mugs. I'm kind of crafty and wouldn't mind doing it myself if I could find out how.
Asked by ahuntress 9 years ago
I am trying to figure out what solvent would be safe and suitable to thin Dap Kwik Seal plus enough to be applied to a latex coated foam surface via a HVLP sprayer. does anyone have any thoughts on this?
Posted by lunchbox739 4 months ago
If you have read some of my other Instructables you know that a lot of them require oxygen either from the surrounding air or from an oxidizer. Potassium Nitrate is the most common and easily obtainable but, for those of you who, for whatever reason can't obtain it can make your own from hydrogen peroxide.
Asked by tmonk11 23 days ago
Hello! For a project that i will transform into an instructable I would need a color with following properties: - Stick to metal - Possible to remove using solvents - Water resistant - possibly sprayable - Protect sprayed material from direct contact with water. (not long term.. half an hour is enough.. ) - NOT heat resistant. if heated the color should be damaged and come off the metal without the use of any solvents. - must be as dark as possible any Idea of what could be used? Thanks!
Posted by sharkyenergy 3 years ago
Was too lazy to do an Instructable about it and think a lot of pics or even videos won't help much if you know what I mean ;) Some of us use rotary vane pumps not for the purpose of evacuating refrigeration systems but for all sorts of fun and experiments. This means quite soon or often we face the problem of the oil taking in a lot of water or even worse particles and solvent fumes. I don't know about you but I was getting sick and tired of replacing the expensive oil every few weeks or sometimes even days if something got too wrong. There are many different blends of compressor oil out there that will work very well in our rotary vane pumps. The main difference is whyt the oil is designed for. Some are perfect for aircon systems, others for the work with solvent fumes and there are even those special oils that bind moisture. Unless you really need to evacuted special gases or solvents basically any low viscosity oil will do us just fine! So instead of paying 20 bucks for special compressor or even vacuum pump oil we can select the cheap everyday oil. Well, not exactly... We also want to be able to recycle our oil to save even more money. That means we don't want an oil that binds to water to keep it out of harms way. We also don't want any oil that has special coating abilities for example these oils claiming to reduce wear and tear on your engine. But any other low viscosity mineral oil or if you prefer synthetic oil will do - just stay away from silicone based oils!! If you have not used your pump for a few days you can often see a slude at the bottom of the viewing glass. If the rest of the oil is clear you can simply drain this worst bit and top up with fresh oil if required. This simple procedure saves you a lot of oil already, at least if your pump has some rest every now and then. Once your oil looks wasted it is time for the recycling and cleaning: Release the oil into a high glass jar or these facy spaghetti glasses. Fill with fresh oil and give it a short run. Release this oil as well and wait for it to properly drain. You now have the inside of your pump nice and clean again, time to fill one last time with fresh oil to keep using the pump. The filthy oil we now have in our jar should be covered with some fine cloth or filter paper and placed somewhere warm. After a week or two the oil, filth and water will have seperated and you pump, drain or siphon out the now clean oil for further use. Don't be too exact here trying to get all the oil out, just remove what you can without risking to suck in the filth from the bottom. Simply leave the rest in the jar and add the next oil change to it for the same recycling process. Solvents.... In some cases we will work with solvents and that means the oil might bind to them. Acetone for example is quite nasty here and can change the oil itself by breaking down certain components. In most cases it means the viscosity will be reduced, which is not really too bad for us. What is bad however is the fact that these solvents often refuse to fully seperate or evaporate. Once the oil looks clean do a smell test and if it smells like solvent then for sure there is solvent in it. Next step to confirm is to do a lube test. Simply place on some smooth metal or glass and smear it with your finger - a drop is enough here. If it feels sticky on the surface, gives you a rubber like feeling when sliding over the surface or is far less "slippery" than the fresh oil you also have a problem. I found that filling this contaminated oil into a proper container and applying a strong vacuum will remove all solvent residue in a very short time. Downside is that the oil in the pump is contaminated again, so it pays off to collect solvent contaminated oil seperately and once you got enough for several refills use the pump to get rid of the solvent. When done do another smear and smell test, if still smelly repeat if no longer smelly but still the same bad feeling on the surface: Discard as the oil might be broken down by the solvent.
Posted by Downunder35m 1 year ago
Peeling off is not an option, I have tried scraping off with a plastic scraper to no avail. Have also tried Goo Gone (citrus based solvent) and Oops! (a stronger solvent) with a non scratch scrubbing pad. I was able to peel the decals that werent' cracked from the sun but the others are basically baked on from the Arizona heat. Would a heat gun work? How careful do I have to be not to damage the paint? What about something like 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper?
Asked by goodgnus 9 years ago
Tape together the cleaner solvent and the glue cans side-by-side. Less to move around, and you'll always need both. If NOT needing a water/air tight bond you can mix the solvent & glue together then coat the pipe to glue. Saves time, but not strong enough for plumbing. (Check at the store first on this one. Been awhile since I used this. ) A 1-1/2" piece of CPVC (gray pipe) is just the right size for splicing together two pieces of 2" pipe. Just slip it inside for a 'hidden' fitting. I didn't see this, but be sure to hold your pipes together for 5-10 seconds when gluing. The chemical weld causes a slight expansion that will push the pipe out of the fitting up to halfway. Then it bonds!!
Asked by Bionicjoe 10 months ago
I know how to remove/replace individual cells in the Dewalt battery. Most of my time doing this is removing the insulation pad. I haven't found any solvent for the glue yet. Anyone have a good way to remove the sticky pad?
Asked by horsebroke 7 years ago
My dad has got a yamaha xs650 but the fuel tanks got rust in it. What solvents can I put in to remove the rust without removing the tank or messing up the fuel? The pics are of 1)in the tank 2)The motorbike 3)a blurry pic of inside the tank
Posted by thermoelectric 9 years ago
I see that people recommend using different kinds of solvent (and lots of elbow grease) to get the adhesive residue off, but I have an area that is north of 500 sq. feet. Tile is off and we'd like to stain the concrete. Thanks for any suggestions.
Asked by TracyS131 4 months ago
I've tried in a pot with some oil as a quasi-solvent/medium and also a double boiler; both end up with a "goo" that is almost impossible to work with. The type of plastic is #2HDPE and #4LDPE. I have also tried a hot plate and a propane burner; both ways also yeild the same results.
Asked by samboy3 8 years ago
I am in the need to make a quick decision before the weekend. A local shop is closing down and I was offer a massive amount of good quality resin for price that you could call stealing LOL Only problem is that there is no catalyst included as the owner realised the container had a leak the stuff was long gone. Buying the required amount of catalyst down here so I consider making my own. For obvious reasons I won't go into the details of making... Problem on my end is that the catalyst needs to be thinned down to 40-60% to prevent unwanted results handling and using it. All the commercial products use thinners based on very hard to obtain organic solvents. From what I could read they are added to prevent mis-use of the product, which means there might be other solvents that work for the thinning without affecting the resin or curing process in a negative way. Big question: What type of easy to obtain solvent can I use for this without compromising the resin or curing? And before anyone asks: No I won't tell you - if you don't know what I am talking about you don't need to ask on how to make it as I won't tell. And no again, I am not looking for ways to make the resin thinner - I need to dilute the pure catalyst to make it useable and safe. My sole intention is make a good deal but unless I find a suitable thinner I won't buy close to 300 liters of resin....
Asked by Downunder35m 1 year ago
For maintenance purposes, I would like to construct an ultrasound cleaning tank. Preferably an encapsulated ultrasound transducer and generator that could be used in an old solvent cleaning tank which now should not be used. From reading a little about the subject, its application would find a wide use as a clean and environmentally friendly solution in many industrial and domestic applications. Is it feasable and cost effective to build a generator and an encapsulated transducer, and are there any websites to go to to find out more?
Posted by brianeggar 10 years ago
I need some kind of clear glue to get old camera film, the kind you find on reels, to stick together. I was thinking of finding a volatile solvent and pouring that over two pieces on top of each other. Anyone know what old camera film dissolves in?? Thanks, -Josh
Posted by T3h_Muffinator 11 years ago
It's been some time and I made progress with Nylon. Aldi had some cheap craft glue with methanol as the solvent - this stuff works great for PLA, ABS AND Nylon. The common problem with nylon is that it has no real adhesion to anything, except cardboard and bakelite. Cardboard makes a clean up nightmare and bakelite is not always easy to find, especially not the right type. So I tried various glues, paints and primers but none was really suited for all printing needs. And the cleanup of the bed is imoprtant too as I did not want to spend hours scrubbing with acetone or similar nasty solvents. After the first great succes with the clear Aldi craft glue I checked the local 2$ shops and carft stores and found similar glueswith methanol as a solvent. Since not everyone is lucky enough to get these specials I will tell you what to look out for if you try clear craft glue: Don't buy anything that can be cleaned up with water - you want methanol or ethanol as the solvent in the glue! Do a test with the glue on something that usually does not bind well to cheap glue, like glass and blister packs. Let the glue dry and peel it off - it should be a clear film that is quite strong and barely streches when you pull it. It almost feels like hard paper. All good so far? Check if the nylon, pla or abs really sticks to it: Spread a very thin layer on a piece of cardboard and let dry. Add another, thicker layer and let dry again. Now hold it under your nozzle and extrude a bit of filament while moving the cardboard around. Let cool and check how good it sticks. In a perfect world the cool plastic should peel the papaer off with the glue. Time to prepare your print bed the same way and to start printing ;) Just use a very thin first layer and for the first layer much lower speeds than usual. I print nylon with 60mm/s and the first layer at just 25mm/s, any faster and the first layer does not look right. ABS and PLA are much more forgiving here.
Posted by Downunder35m 2 years ago
Recently put back in to use an old Northern Telecom rotary dial telephone. It works awesome and ironically it has the best sound out of all my phones, huh.. Anyway, the case is Bakelite plastic. On it was an old label that had its phone number, contact info, yada yada yada... I peel it off, but under neath the old adhesive made the plastic look matte, as opposed to the original glossy black that the rest of the phone has. Any idea as to solvents to gently break down the adhesive, yet not effect the old Bakelite plastic?
Asked by iminthebathroom 7 years ago
I own too much plastic, that I use regularly, but want to decorate. Is there a SAFE method to chemically or otherwise "mottle" plastic with colors? Not looking to use paints, as those will just peel off. I know that plastics react to some solvents and such, but is there anything that you could 'wash' plastic with that would just outwardly alter the appearance? If I could get an "oil on water", or even just a "camo" sort of effect, that would be wonderful! (I tried searches for what to AVOID using around plastics without risking such an effect, but can't get the right search parameters...) Thanks for any ideas! I'd really prefer not to have to throw stuff out.
Posted by Dragon Maze 8 years ago
I recently bought a Coffee/expresso maker for my girlfriend from Goodwill for Christmas. It's super cool and professional looking but it's kinda dirty inside. Normally when I'd wanna clean something, I'd run like barsol or laquer-thinner through it because I love high powered solvents, but I also would prefer not to kill my girlfriend. Anyone know of anything I can run through a coffeemaker that isn't toxic but kills germs? They make coffee maker cleaner, but it doesn't seem like it'd kill germs. I was thinking vinegar.
Asked by Funk_D 8 years ago
I've put PlexiGlas (acrylic plastic, I think) in my roof in my bathroom. The surface is high- gloss black and should look great. However, these sheets are huge and there is a protective film on the surface which has to be removed and when I do that, the plastic will be loaded with static electricity, which will gather dust. (When I removed the protective film on the back side of the plastic, I saw this result and it isn't good. Is there a way to eliminate/reduce the static electricity before/during/after I remove the protective film? -Because of the black surface, I'm afraid that waterstains and cleaning- solvents might leave stripes/spots that won't look good...
Asked by Slugg0 3 years ago
Hello. I am working on doing an aluminium lost foam casting of a small part. I read although hazardous, some had gotten successful results from using polyurethane foam (great stuff) in a mold, and proceeding as usual. I don't normally use great stuff, so I mixed gorilla glue with 1/3 water, stirred till I had small bubbles, poured into a silicone mold, and got a pretty good few castings that were VERY dense and hardly burned at all. In fact it was practically fire resistant. I threw it on hot coals and it took a long time to shrivel into a hard little mass So next time, I used dollar store foam board next, a la Grant Thompson, but with terrible failures. It seemed the foam board didn't burn very well either. A foam board riser had actually melted off and looked like it floated away in a bubble, although a regular styrofoam block I had cut to shape cast perfectly, but was too thick and the texture was too poor as the foam was so much less dense. It was mentioned in this blog post that someone used acetone to burnout a tricky patten for a lost foam casting, so I figure I have to do the same. My pattern is curing at the moment. But my silicone molds are far more precise and more detailed than my 2d representation I made with a wire cutter. So my question is there another material that is castable but water resistant, like styrofoam, that I could use a solvent to melt out. I can't really do lost wax because I don't have the equipment and live in an apartment and have to do this stuff out on the beach. Also due to family reasons I can't be away from home for the time it takes to do burnouts, 6 hours for a full flask, but that's also the reason why I am doing the shell casting because I can't spend too much time away from the fam. Thanks for your time, sorry if I rambled. And thanks for all here and elsewhere who teach and inspire, even if they don't know they are doing it.
Asked by sk8er6 1 year ago
I have a stock of large sheets of translucent mylar that I want to use as tracing medium. The trouble is that I got them from an engineering shop, so they have plans printed on them. I've had some success "erasing" the drawings using either alcohol hand sanitizer or acetone, but both require some elbow grease and some kind of abrasive, which leaves the surface mottled. Is there a solvent that will dissolve the ink and leave the surface of the mylar more-or-less undamaged? My research suggests that the ink was laid down by an inkjet printer, though I can't be entirely certain.
Asked by yoyology 5 years ago
I found this adorable rubber dragon in the bargain bin of my local toystore and would like to paint it to give it a costumized look. Unfortunately the toy is made from a material i'm not to familiar with. it's very stretch and it seems to me like it is made from supple rubber. It's sort of reminds me of a dog toy. so now I'm trying to find out what type of paint I can and can't use as I don't want it to start flaking. I'don't mind if the toy becomes stiff. I'd will be more of a display item anyway. Could I use spray paint? should I prime it? should i strip the current paint, and which solvent would be best that wouldn' destroy the toy. Any help will be very much appreciated.
Asked by lpringiers 4 years ago
I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects. It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it. I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot. I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds. I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer? And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?
Asked by Nordovita 5 years ago
Sir we had made the TCPO by ourselves and we used the dye DAPN(diaminp phenazine) instead of 9,10-bis(phenyethyl) anthracene and use the solvent ethyl acetate for this and procced as your procedure but we didnt't get the glow for minutes.It lasts only for seconds(i.e. 3-5).Is this due to the use of DAPN rather than the use of anthracene? We had made the DAPN with the mixture of OPDA(orthophenylene diamine) with Distilled water and the addition of the HRP(horse radish periooxidase). We had used the amount as: 15 ml of Ethyl Acetate 1gm of Sodium Acetate 3mg of DAPN 3ml of hydrogen Pero-oxide 800mg of TCPO Sir, we are the student of Nepal studying Biomedical Engineering and we are doing our final year project and we need your help in this, as our project is based in the che miluminescece method for the pregnency detector.Please,please sir help us sending your reply.We will be very thankful towards you if you will be kind to us.Eagerly waiting for your reply.?
Hi, any of you clever guys has a bit of an advanced DIY knowledge of large vivarium building? I am looking for a but of inspiration/tech tips but if anybody loves a challenge, this is what I will be building. Its for my anacondas and it will need to have these specifications: - to hold humidity in/ have waterproof surface on the inside - definitely for the floor - to hold heat in (any ideas of non-toxic heat insulating/reflecting material that is not too thick?) - be fairly light for the purpose of ocassional moving - it needs to be designed with possibility of dismantling for moving in mind, using screws and similar rather than glue etc - to use as much of environmentally friendly materials as possible (ie solvent free etc) - glass doors at the front, all the other sides dont need to be see-through - economical to build - required dimensions: 31 cm tall x 47 cm wide x 204 cm long (front side with the 2 glass doors on hinges, with a partition in the middle 10 or more cm wide) I would be open to innovative materials/ approaches, the main criteria are re-assembly, reasonably low cost and non-toxicity Thanks to everybody for your ideas! In the photo you can see the right half of their present vivarium made of marine plywood. The cage dimensions are (in cm) 61 x 63 x 216.
Asked by Khanga 8 years ago
I'm wanting to make some micarta-like material, using two-part epoxy and paper. I've done a test run, and the material was rigid after it had cured for a few days, but didn't cut like I hoped it would, because the epoxy didn't penetrate the paper. Part of the issue was that the paper was coated, but I'd also like to thin out the epoxy some so that it will soak into the paper better. I'm inspired in this endeavor by these two instructables: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-homemade-micarta/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Mokume-Kireji-DIY-Woodgrain-Composites/ The epoxy I'm using is 3M Scotch-Weld DP-190. The label says it contains epoxy resin, polymeric diamine, kaolin, and carbon black. The complete MSDS is here. This is what I'm using, because it's what I have. Got a case of these two-tube dispensers cheap at a yard sale. :-) So, what can I use to make this more liquid? Right now the consistency is a little bit thicker than honey. It doesn't spread out when applied to paper, and doesn't soak in at all. My limited knowledge suggests that toluene, listed on the MSDS, might work, but I'm hoping for something a bit less volatile. I'm aware that whatever I do is likely to extend the curing time, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.
Asked by yoyology 5 years ago
Over the years I've done a lot of things that didn't work out well, and I try learn something from them hoping to avoid similar problems in the future. I think ibles needs a place to share these 'educational moments' to help others avoid pitfalls and to console with laughter anyone who is sitting amidst the ruins of their own project. So here's the place to share. I'll go first........... My first dramatic failure at about age 8 - Gluing glitter onto balloons. Not a good idea. The glue popped the balloon (I think it was 'airplane glue' ) The result was glue and glitter everywhere (including in my eyes) and a lot of unhappiness. Then there was the hot glue surprise - Using a glue gun to close drip irrigation holes in a garden hose. It plugged the holes and worked just fine in the overcast cool spring weather. Then a rare sunny day heated the hose, and all those plugs melted and the holes started jetting water. I hadn't realized how hot a green hose in the sun could get. And I have made some just plain stupid moves - like spending hours pulling all the shreds of paper out of the toothed wheels on the paper shredder.... you know how they get sucked inside. After getting it all clear I thought I might as well lubricate the thing with spray silicon stuff. So far so good. And then I was so excited to see how it much better it would work, I turned it on. Flash of flame, slightly singed eyebrows, and a TOTALLY dead smoking shredder. Ummm.... it's really worthwhile to let solvents totally evaporate before turning on electrical things.
Posted by mole1 3 years ago