$15 Bed Frame

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Intro: $15 Bed Frame


We picked up a free mattress and box spring from Kijiji the other day as we are having relatives over to our new house in a couple of weeks. On it's own, that was ok except the mattress would be to close to the ground and would be very uncomfortable to get into or out of. So I built a bed frame for the box spring to sit on. Here's how I did it.

STEP 1: Materials and Measurements

Firstly measure your box spring. This isn't particularly important at this stage, but it does make sure you aren't making a mistake when buying materials. The box spring was 53" by 74". I also measured our existing bed to see how far off the ground the top surface of the mattress was, to see what's reasonable. Turns out that's 25". Deduct the height of box spring and mattress means the top of the frame needs to be 10" off the floor.

Next buy your materials. I'm using construction grade 2 by 4s. They look ugly, but that doesn't matter as my wife will tack a skirt round the box spring and frame to make the whole thing look pretty. They are strong enough to build houses from, so they should be able to withstand building made into a bed. You will need:

7 x 2 by 4s
1 box of 3 inch screws (and if you want to, a drill bit to drill pilot holes. I didn't but I'm lazy that way)
1 piece of plyboard big enough to cover the headboard.

Also, you will need
1 1/2 inch drill bit
1 screwdriver. You will probably find a power screwdriver/drill is the way to go.

STEP 2: Cut the 2x4s

Cut two of the 2x4s to (in my case) 52" long to form the bottom and top of the frame.

2x4s aren't 2 inches by 4 inches - they are 1 1/2 inches by 3 1/2 inches because the lumber mill starts with a piece of wood 2" by 4", and then planes it down to smooth out most of the rough parts. To make sure the frame fits the bed, you need to subtract double the width of the 2x4s from the length of the bed. The bed is 74", so you need three 2x4s at 71" long.

We also need legs for the bed, which can be cut from the offcuts from the 52" and 71" frame pieces. The top of the frame needs to be 10" off the ground, so cut 9 pieces all 10" long. To make sure the legs are sturdy, I'm doubling the legs up. So cut some more legs that are 10", less the 3 1/2 inch depth of the 2x4, meaning cut 9 more legs at 6 1/2 inches.

Finally cut one 2x4 in half to make the frame for the headboard. The 2x4s are 8ft long, so you'll end up with approximately 4ft high headboard.

STEP 3: Build the Basic Frame

Place the bottom and top pieces of the frame on the floor, roughly parallel and just over 71" apart. Place the three 71" beams at either end of the top and bottom pieces, and one in the middle.

Put two screws into the end of the bottom beam and one of the 71" beams, giving you approximately a right angle. Repeat this for all four corners, before screwing in the middle beam.

STEP 4: Build the Legs and Attach Them to the Frame

Pairing up each of the 6 1/2" and the 10" legs, you should end up with a stack of 9 legs.

Starting at the corners, place four legs under the frame at each corner to get it level. Screw through the 10" half of the leg, and into the frame. Once the corners are done, repeat the process attach the remaining 5 legs to the middle of each side and one in the centre of the bed.

STEP 5: Attach the Uprights for the Headboard


Screw in the uprights for the uprights to make up the headboard. Three screws should do it.

Once that's done, measure up and cut the horizontals to complete the headboard.

STEP 6: Attaching the Horizontals for the Headboard

Take your 1/2" drill bit, and measure 1 1/2" from the tip. Mark that off with some tape. I've only got 3" screws, I counter sunk the screws 1 1/2" inside the uprights of the headboard.

Mark up where your horizontals will go for the headboard, and drill two holes with the marked 1/2" drill bit. Then when you screw in the 3" screws through the counter sinks, you'll have an 1 1/2" of screw in the upright and another 1 1/2" in the horizontal. Do this for both horizontals, at both ends.

Once that's done, measure and cut another upright to go in the middle of the headboard, and attach a piece of ply board across the front of the head board.

And that's it!

(You could also get your awesomely talented wife to do some sewing)

28 Comments

Hmmm I finally followed Robert's advice and took WoodPrix's plans instructions. It's great for beginners, and has some advanced stuff too. It's good to see the WoodPrix's plans has new instructions to save my money and energy to build it.
Super novice here - I plan to attempt an 18" platform storage bed for a queen, based on this instructable. I haven't built anything major on my own but in all fairness, my dad was a shop teacher. :-)
So... since I don't want a box spring, would I have to add slats or might a piece of plywood or particle board over two stringers work? I am hoping to put a hinge halfway across the plywood (cut 2/3 way) so I can take off my mattress, swing the plywood up at the 2/3 stringer, and easily access the stuff underneath.
Is that too crazy? Right now, I'm trying to figure out how many 2x4s I'll need (and what length) to be the most cost-effective for the cuts. lol
Here is my plan so far. Thoughts or advice (please)?
Slats or sheet goods would work just fine. You can probably by 1x3 or 1x4 spruce pretty cheap from a hardware store - the same place as your 2x4s. I recently built my son's twin bed, using the same stuff. They were 1x3s, and I placed them about 3" apart. He loves the bed :D
Great idea. Like everyone else, I'm probably going to put my spin on it. I don't use a box spring because of a platform bed. So I'll probably make the legs longer, and have more than one stringer down the middle. My thought is to use a joist hanger inside the box for the stringers. Then run 1x4's across for slats to support the mattress.

In my case, I'll probably make the 4 outside rails stand up from the legs and the stringers to allow for a lip for the matress to sit in.
Super novice here - I plan to attempt an 18" platform storage bed for a queen, based on this instructable. I haven't built anything major on my own but in all fairness, my dad was a shop teacher. :-)
So... since I don't want a box spring, would I have to add slats or might a piece of plywood or particle board over two stringers work? I am hoping to put a hinge halfway across the plywood (cut 2/3 way) so I can take off my mattress, swing the plywood up at the 2/3 stringer, and easily access the stuff underneath.
Is that too crazy? Right now, I'm trying to figure out how many 2x4s I'll need (and what length) to be the most cost-effective for the cuts. lol
Here is my plan so far. Thoughts or advice (please)?
Where can i get the wood..?..
As per the measurement what should i tell the guy who cuts the wood?..
I have zero knowledge on measurements/woodwork.. please help

Where depends on what country you're in. I know in the USA, stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and Ace Hardware carry framing lumber (aka 2x4s).

The measurements are based on your mattress and boxspring. Measure your mattress length, width and height and determine how high you'd like the top of the mattress to be off the ground. This determines your legs' height as so: Preferred bed height (say 25 inches) - mattress height and boxspring height (say 13" + 11" or possibly no box spring, in which case it would be just 13" mattress).

So:

25" - (11"+7") = 7" high legs

or 25" - 11" = 14" high legs (this would be a platform bed)

The other measurements should be simple to take based on the instructions stormthirst mentioned! Also, if you don't have a box spring you'll need some bracing across the frame, such as some 1x4 slats going across the inner rails.

Great plan. I will be modifying mine and I will post the pics. You say 7 2x4s. But what length? Thanks!

Thanks for this instructable. I just made this bedframe today, for my younger daughters room.

great and sturdy bed I took out the box spring and replaced it with OSB to save money thanks!
Thanks for posting this,
I did this one over the weekend - 2 hours (THANK ALL THAT IS HOLY FOR THE SPEED OF A COMPOUND MITRE SAW). I haven't put in a headboard yet, but I'm going to do something a little different with that part.

Thanks again to you and instructables. Now I sleep like an adult, on a mattress on a boxspring on a frame on the floor. 30 inches off the floor, actually. I may have to install a step.
You're welcome.

The compound mitre saw is an awesome tool. I only did the headboard like that because I wanted to get something put in place quickly. Once you've got the basics down, you can modify to add the headboard you want, and even a foot board.

Any ideas on what you're intending to do with the headboard? I'd considered using stair parts - two newel posts, a 2x4 at the bottom and a hand rail at the top., with some spindles in between.
Well I am going to give it a run tomorrow. Wish me luck. I am actually going to refinish in a dark Mahogany! Will let you know hoe it all goes.


Thank you, Mr Stormhirst :)


Shani
I modified your plans for a full size mattress:

Is this really $15 though? 2x4's around here are $2.53 per 8 foot board. Ply board can be $5 to 10. box of screws for that many legs, around $6. The wood itself could be $15 give or take. The assembly costs a little more. So technically it's a $15 bed frame, but it probably costs more ;)

I'm just giving you a hard time. It's well done, and I actually needed it to get ideas for how to made a headboard for my kid's bed, so thanks for the help. Good Ible. I gave it a 4.5 star rating. :)
I managed to get the 2x4's in a sale at (I think) $1.98 CDN. So I was playing a little fast and loose with the costs.

BTW Tony, the only guest so far to sleep on it says it was very comfortable
Like I said, it's a good instructable.
Nice job ! …
I like the cat too !: if a cat feels comfortable on a bed it only means it's well done !…
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