3D Printed Magnifying Glass

Intro: 3D Printed Magnifying Glass

Intro:

The goal of this project was to see if it was possible to create a 3D printed magnifying glass with no sanding or polishing needed.

To get started you will need:

• Access to a SLA type (resin) 3D printer (Ex: Form1+ by Formlabs)
• Clear resin
• A 3D model of a magnifying glass (Ex: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1006913)
• Rust-Oleum Crystal Clear Enamel
• Optional:
  • Ultrasonic Cleaner
  • Isopropyl Alcohol
  • Cut Resistant Gloves
  • 2000 Grit Sand Paper

STEP 1: Download STL Model and Print

You can download the STL model of the magnifying glass I designed from thingiverse.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1006913

Or you can use your own design. Open the file in your 3D printing software and print out a copy. Since I have a Form1+ from Formlabs I used Preform as the software to print this model. I printed this model at .05mm layer height. Tip: The finer the layer height the less coats of enamel you will need to achieve the same clarity.

STEP 2: Clean and Remove Supports From Your Print

Ensure your 3D print is free from uncured resin. You can do this by swashing your print in alcohol. I have had great success in removing uncured resin by using an ultrasonic cleaner filled with +90% isopropyl alcohol. This will leave your print surface smooth and dry (no longer sticky). If you don't have access to an ultrasonic cleaner you can cure resin by exposing your 3D print to UV light (sunlight) for a short time. Do not over expose your print to UV light or your print will discolor and deteriorate. Once your 3D print is clean, go ahead and remove supports. Be careful not to cut your self. I like to use special gloves when removing supports with sharp tools.

STEP 3: Spray on Crystal Clear Enamel

Shake your can of Crystal Clear Enamel for a good while (3-5 mins). Allow the can to rest for another (3-5 mins). This will ensure your can is evenly mixed but not too agitated to introduce air bubbles on your print.

Lightly spray an even coat on one side of the print and then on the back side of the print. Always keep the can moving and never over spray. If you spray enough enamel that you see drippings, you are over spraying. After you spray if you see a bumpy surface you are either under spraying or you are spraying too far away from the surface (the enamel is semi dried and is loosely adhered to the surface). The surface of the print after a layer of enamel should be even, smooth, and consistent. Do not worry that the surface is milky or cloudy. The enamel will dry to a clear finish once fully dried.

Wait 20 min to 1 hour in between coats. Always hang dry the lens. Even if the surface of the print is dry to the touch, chances are the inner layers are still soft, so don't touch or apply any pressure to the print or you will permanently ruin the enamel coat. Spray enough coats until the surface of the print is smooth and optically clear. Hang dry for about 8 - 12 hours after your last coat.

In case of a mistake:

Accidents happen, it's okay. If your enamel coat becomes contaminated or uneven. Allow the layer to dry completely. Remove any contaminates or unevenness by wet sanding away using very fine sand paper (ex: 2000 grit). Clean the surface with distilled water and air dry or use a lint free wipe. Once dried, begin to spray enamel coats again until the surface is smooth.

STEP 4: Magnifying Glass Is Finished

The concept works! Now its your turn to refine this and improve upon the process. What exciting developments await 3D printed optics?

Above and beyond experiment:

A future experiment will be to spin the lens at a high RPM and apply a coating at the center of the lens. The rotation of the lens should evenly distribute the coating on the surface reducing any distortions or unevenness.

Here is a video of the 3D Printed Magnifying Glass burning a leaf. Don't try this at home, kids.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x3NXvE6GcOU

Comments

[mchau2]

wow, is there a official ior of common printing resins?

[mchau2]

thus we can determine the fovsl length maybe...

[ricky.secoy]

I use a Micro Soft Wire Cutter to remove supports. I have never had any problems with sharps or getting cut. And I usually have to sand my pieces after removing supports due to scarring from where the supports touched. I've reduced the contact area as much as I can in my software, but still it is an issue. You can see the scars on the bottom and back.

[gravityisweak]

Impressive! One question, does that enamel protect from UV? I imagine using this especially to burn things would lead to that discoloration and degredation fairly quickly.

[EmbeddedJunkie]

The spray can itself has no UV protection details but looking at the Home Depot description it claims it does "Excellent UV protection for projects". I've had a few coated items next to bright windows for a few weeks with no noticeable deterioration or discoloration. I guess the next test is to leave a coated piece in direct sunlight for a few hours and see what happens.

[StephenA21]

People can make glasses for a village! Fresnel lens solar ovens. Lighthouse fresnel pieces. Custom optics for 360 degree cameras. Wow!

[SlkStephane]

I can't believe this! Does it actually make the lenses as well!

[tomatoskins]

This is great! I love 3d printed lenses. They have always fascinated me!