3D Printer - Working Area 40x40x40cm
Intro: 3D Printer - Working Area 40x40x40cm
I always wanted to have a diy 3d printer. The easiest way to make it is print frame parts and coonnect it with aluminium profiles or somethink like that. But I didn't have acces to any 3d printer. So, I used my cnc machine to make all nessesery parts and when 3d printer was almost assembled I printed plastic parts whitch were hard or imposible to make on cnc machine. And now i have a 3d printer with working area around 40x40x40 cm :)
I made a video and step by step instruction how to make it.
STEP 1: Watch the Videos
I made three videos which show you step by step assembly of 3d printer. Videos will give you a good overview, but most important information are in the next steps.
STEP 2: Materials, Parts, Tools
Frame materials:
- Aluminium profiles 20x20x2 mm
- Aluminium sheet 3mm
- Linear Rail Shafts 12mm
- Linear Shaft Bearings 12mm
- A lot of Screws, Nuts and Washers
- Stepper Motor Mounts
Drive components:
- Stepper Motors Nema 17
- Timing Belts GT2 6mm
- GT2 Timing Pulleys
- Screw Rods
Electronic:
- Arduino Mega 2560
- Ramps 1.4
- Stepstick A4988
- LCD 12864
- Power Supply
- Heated Bed
- Heater Block
- Endstops
- Thermistors
- A lot of Wires
Tools:
- Cnc Machine or 3D Printer
- Belt Sander
- Angle Grinder
- Drill
- Sandpaper
- Screws drivers
- Soldering Iron
- Pliers
STEP 3: Project
Before I started making my printer I thought about different solutions and I made 3D project in Autodesk Inventor, it gave me a good overview on the whole machine. Dimensions of all parts you can download below.
STEP 4: Frame Parts
Frame is made of aluminium profiles 20x20x2 mm. I thought about v-slot profiles, they are easier to connect but much more expensive. To the other elements I used aluminium flat bars 40x10mm, 40x8mm, 30x10mm and aluminium sheet 3mm. First, I cut all profiles(20x20) to the desired length and improved the edges on belt sander. Next I milled all parts. After milling I removed the holding tabs, improved edges, drilled holes and made threads.
STEP 5: Frame + Y Axis
Connect aluminium profiles (585mm and 620mm length) with corner connectors using screws. Remember about the angle of 90 degrees ! Cut the linear rail shafts to 620mm. Screw Y shafts holder to the frame. Put in linear bearings to the bearings holder and put them on shafts. Next screw the bed bottom to the bearings holder. This is a platform for the bed.
STEP 6: Frame + Z Axis
Connect aluminium profiles (560mm vertical and 585mm horizontal ) using corner connectors. Screw the Z bottom shaft holders. Connect 2 pieces of the frame with the Z mount plates. Still remember about 90 degree. Cut the shafts to 588mm and connect them with the Z bottom and top holders. To strengthen construction, screw the aluminium angle profiles from top to the bottom.
STEP 7: X Axis
Screw bearings to the X Plates and put them in the Z axis. Remember about a bearing holder+nut one of each side. Cut the shafts to 624mm. Connect bearings with X Bearings Holder and screw them to the X Plate Extruder.
Now frame and axis are ready :)
STEP 8: Motors, Endstops, Drive Components
Screw motor holders to the frame. Y axis holder was too high. So, I cut few millimeters from the top. Screw the motors to the holders and endstops to the frame. Triggers are made of steel and aluminium. Z axis trigger is adjustable. Timing belt connectors are made of steel and aluminium too. Next screw the gears, pulley wheels and timing belts. To the Z axis I used M6 threaded rods but only for test. I'll change them to 8 mm threaded rod with trapezoidal thread. Nuts are made of teflon.
STEP 9: Bed, Extruder, Hotend
To make adjustable bed I used screws and hard springs. Top bed is connected to aluminium profiles and bottom bed. I didn't' had a that big aluminium sheet. So, bed is little to small but still work perfect :) On the top of the bed is 4 mm glass. Glass shapes are rounded with sandpaper. Extruder and hotend are made of aluminium. They are connected with teflon pipe.
STEP 10: Steel Platform
This step is not necessary but is good for your machine. The construction is little flexible when you put on force. To reduce it I welded simple platform with steel profiles.
STEP 11: Electronics, Heated Bed, Power Supply
The brain of the printer is Arduino Mega 2560 with Marlin software. To arduino are connected Ramps 1.4 shield and LCD 12864 Smart Controller. To power the printer I used a ATX power supply (very cheap and quite). But if printer works with 4 heated beds my old atx isn't enough. To power the 4 heated bed I used a power supply from old server station. To control which bed will be turned off or on, I made small control panel (schematic below). If I need use more than 2 beds, I have to turn on biggest power supply(a lot of noise). Of course you can power everything from 1 power supply, but I got my power supplies for free and this solution is good for me becouse I mostly use 1 heated bed. On the bottom of the heated bed is a cork board to keep maximum heat. In the rar file is Marlin program with my settings, but they aren't final (works good but can better).
STEP 12: First Printing
Before machine was completely finished, I printed a hotend holder, fan holder, z axis threaded rod holder, smart controller enclosure and filament spool holder.
STEP 13: Finish :)
3D Printer is completely finished :)
Just heat the nozzle and print something !
If you enjoy please subscribe my Youtube channel for more projects.
Thomas Workshop Youtube Channe
l If you have any questions, please leave a comment below :)
265 Comments
abhilash334 1 year ago
karim.lhe 4 years ago
How_To_Do_Stuff 4 years ago
DD Boss 1 year ago
ANCONA_GAMES 3 years ago
mghirbim 3 years ago
DD Boss 1 year ago
ieausername 2 years ago
emiliano_m.m@hotmail.com
Thanks a lot
NITHEESH 107 2 years ago
MikeO123 3 years ago
ry105142 3 years ago
Anybody have DXF file of frame and it's parts
YazmaniReyes 3 years ago
First of all I congratulate you for this excellent work and I also congratulate all those who have been able to replicate this work.
I am also working on replicating this project, I have almost all my material ready and I am in the initial phases.
But something that causes me a lot of doubt is the connection of the 4 heated beds.
In my case, I want to power the entire 3D printer with a single power source, so I understand that each 12 Volt hot bed consumes 144Watts, correct? Which would give a total of 576 Watts of consumption only for the heated beds, right?
So, what value should I buy my power supply in terms of current and power so that it correctly supports all the components of the 3D printer?
On the other hand, I imagine the connection of the hot beds is in parallel, right?, that is, all the positives of the hot beds go to the positive of the source and all the negatives go to the negative of the source?
I also suppose that the temperature sensors that are connected to each heated bed at the end are joined to be able to connect to the input of the RAMPS?
In advance I thank everyone for their help.
I am very excited to see if I can successfully finish this project and in the end I hope to share the results with everyone.
Thanks a lot.
topcreation6000 3 years ago
ANCONA_GAMES 4 years ago
mghirbim 3 years ago
romeoabikhalil 4 years ago
mghirbim 3 years ago
mghirbim 3 years ago
CostasV2 3 years ago
jain09samyak 3 years ago