Aquarium Stand With Secret Door for Sump
Intro: Aquarium Stand With Secret Door for Sump
Swim to your local pet store and you might spot a lot of aquarium stands to choose from. But try to find one that will fit a sump filtration system, even a 10 gallon one, and you are likely to come up dry. Go online, and you can find lots of DIY aquarium stands. But try to find a set of instructions that do not involve 2 by 4s, cinder blocks, railroad ties or other unsightly materials, and your choices are very limited. It stinks... like a dead fish!
So that's why my 14 year old son and I decided to swim someplace else and come up with a design of our own.
Since this design, we have built another one with an improved design that allows you to place it anywhere, cabinet lighting, a power cord manager, and other additional features. Here is a link to it: Make a Better Than New Aquarium Stand
STEP 1: Tools and Materials
This is the first cabinet I've made, so I don't have a lot of wood shop tools. Many of the tools we did not have we just borrowed.
Electric Mitre Saw with Finishing Blade
Biscuit Joiner
Clamps
Router and Table
Circular Saw
Table Saw with Finishing Blade
Drill Press
Drill and bits
Other typical tools (tape measure, pencil, brushes, etc.)
MATERIALS
1x4 Pine (8 foot lengths)
1x3 Pine (8 foot lengths)
1x8 Pine (2 foot)
3/4" Plywood - full sheet
1/4" Plywood - half sheet
4 Cabinet Hinges (we used the hidden type)
4 Cabinet Handles
Waterproof Wood Glue
Primer and Paint
STEP 2: The Secret
The secret to carrying that heavy load is in how the top and bottom frames are constructed. To make these pieces, we used a router and table that I borrowed from a coworker. Using the router, we took out the corner of our 1x4" pine boards. Since 1x4's are actually only 3/4" wide, we only needed to take out 3/8" (one half of the width). For those who have never used a router, keep in mind you'll want to route the wood a small layer at a time. It should take 3 or 4 passes to take off 3/8" of wood.
Then, we used the brand new biscuit joiner I got as a gift and sandwiched the boards together. This creates "rabbit ears" for another 3/4" board to slide into (called a "rabbet joint"). A downward load on that joint isn't going to give. A strong twisting load might easily snap the rabbit ear, but you won't have a twisting load when the stand is fully assembled.
STEP 3: Base and Cap
To make the 45 degree angle cuts, you will need a mitre saw with a finishing blade installed. The regular blade that our powered mitre saw came with makes the edge look like a shark bit it off.
Before we got started with our first cut, we checked the mitre saw to make sure it was cutting true 90 degree cuts on the horizontal and vertical axis, and in the process learned how to adjust that.
After calibrating and practicing with the saw, we cut our 45 degree angles, leaving precisely the desired length. Doing this will give you a healthy degree of respect for people who make custom picture frames.
Keep on swimming... you have two of these to build.
STEP 4: Join the Frames
STEP 5: Clamp Together
STEP 6: Cut Plywood Panels and Floor
STEP 7: Look Mom, No Glue.... Yet
Once you get to this point, you can start to see how everything is going to fit together before you glue it.
STEP 8: The Front
Glue the pieces together and clamp square.
STEP 9: Cabinet Doors
We used tongue and groove joints to hold the panel frames together. We glued everything in place, then routed the outside edge.
Be sure you do not take off too much when you route the outside edge - if you go too deep, the holes for the hidden hinges will come through the front.
STEP 10: Glue, Sand, Prime and Paint
STEP 11: Hinge Installation
We needed a drill press to drill the 1 1/4" counter bored holes for the hidden cabinet hinges because we were afraid of drilling the holes too deep and ruining the cabinet doors.
Since I don't own a drill press, we went to my Dad's house to do that.
STEP 12: Secret Panel
We used cabinet magnets at the top to hold panel. It snaps on and off just like we had hoped.
24 Comments
QueshanP 8 years ago
robchang 8 years ago
Wow this is one of the most well engineered and beautiful stands I have seen! Thanks for sharing and making it fun to read! Swim on!
3dwoodplans 9 years ago
Hi, I recently build a sturdy cabinet to house a large bird cage that would work quite well and be quite stylist. I made it like an old style dry sink with a crown molding around the top edge. If you are interested in some like that I can help you out. I have done complete kitchen sets as well but not as classy for any other room in your home. Have a look at the attached picture. I have plans available for several different pieces of furniture on my website. 3dwoodworkingplans dot com
d00dy 10 years ago
Just wanted to say good job. I built an aquarium stand with hidden sump door a couple of years ago (on instructables) and love it a lot. It really helps if you have to take the sump out. Hope it works out for you.
jhawkins14 10 years ago
hsanford 10 years ago
3dwoodplans 10 years ago
I design and make cabinets etc.as a part time job. Your cabinet looks excellent and very well constructed. Yes there may have been better ways to accomplish your goal, however the cabinet you and your son produced looks great, sturdy and is quite functional. Getting shop time with your kids or grandkids in my case is the most rewarding part of any build. It's not about the project it's about the journey. Bruce (3dwoodworkingplans.com)
peth 10 years ago
mpulliam1 10 years ago
jhawkins14 10 years ago
dimtick 10 years ago
visually the top & bottom rails look heavy. I'm wondering is adding some trim could break up the flat faces and really finish this off nice. craftsman details really fit this design.
What I would do is add a horizontal 1x2 around the top edge. add narrow crown molding below the 1x2. add 3/4" molding along the bottom edge of the top rail and the top edge of the bottom rail.
do a google search on craftsman trim details to see what i mean. you've done such a nice job that i think a few finishing touch's would really dress it up nice.
i understand the removable panel but is seems like having a center pair of doors could have worked better. what you do is simply attach the center bar to one of the doors so that it opens with it. pretty common cabinet detail.....if that makes sense.
I don't know how the sump works but i also wonder if adding a pull out shelf in the center would make servicing easier? simply mount a plywood shelf panel on drawer slides.
just thinking out loud. you really did do a nice job!
jhawkins14 10 years ago
You're awesome! Thanks for your feedback and for the compliments! The common cabinet detail you mention is something we definitely considered, but ruled out in our situation.
The 55 gallon aquarium is 48 inches, the 10 Gallon aquarium used for the sump needs at least 21 inches to be able to be removed. 48-21=27. Divide that by two, and you have 13.5 inches of space on either side of the sump. That 13.5 inches of available space gets eaten up really quick when you start drawing it out and trying to get each of the cabinet doors to be exactly the same size and to appear evenly spaced when all doors are closed. Allowing clearances for hinges and doors would use more of an already scarce space.
I don't want to overdramatize it by any means, there is probably is a workable solution that uses the common cabinet detail you mentioned other than what we chose. This is only to explain why we did what we did. Besides, when you are 14 years old, there's something awfully cool about having a "secret" removable panel that nobody expects from looking at the outside. It is the very first thing he shows all of his friends.
jclouseau42 10 years ago
jhawkins14 10 years ago
Scumm7 10 years ago
jhawkins14 10 years ago
We routed the edges of the cabinet doors, choosing a bit and depth, without ever thinking about how that might effect the recessed cabinet hinges on the other side of the door. Lesson learned ;) The result was that we had something in the neighborhood of a 1/32 of an inch margin of error... (counter bore the hole 1/32" of an inch off the intended center or 1/32" too deep, then we'd be coming out the other side). Drill press (and Dad) to the rescue!
jhawkins14 10 years ago
crademacher 10 years ago
jhawkins14 10 years ago
andrea biffi 10 years ago
Anyway this is an awesome project, you're lucky to have a neighbor with a table saw... here you should travel maybe 40 Km to find such a "neighbor" ;-)