DIY LiPo Charge/Protect/5V Boost Circuit

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Intro: DIY LiPo Charge/Protect/5V Boost Circuit

In this video I will show you how I combined a couple of ICs in order to create a charge/protect/5V boost circuit for a single cell LiPo battery. Along the way I will show you how I designed the PCB, how I ordered it and what kind of problems occured while soldering the components and testing the circuit. Let's get started!

STEP 1: Watch the Video!


The video gives you all the information you need to create your own Charge/Protect/Boost circuit. In the next steps though I will present you some additional, helpful information.

STEP 2: Order the Components!

STEP 3: Create the Circuit/Order the PCB

Here you can find the schematic of the circuit and the Gerber files. You can use them to order the PCBs with JLCPCB: https://jlcpcb.com/order/pcb

Or you can simply open my EasyEDA project with my board design and click the fabrication output button: https://easyeda.com/GreatScott/LiPoChargeProtectBo...

Once you receive the PCBs, all you have to do is solder the components to it with the help of the schematic.

STEP 4: Success!

You did it! You just created your own LiPo Charge/Protect/5V Boost circuit


Feel free to check out my YouTube channel for more awesome projects:

http://www.youtube.com/user/greatscottlab

You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ for news about upcoming projects and behind the scenes information:

https://twitter.com/GreatScottLab
https://www.facebook.com/greatscottlab

26 Comments

Don't waste your time on this. It's nothing more than an a PCB vendor promotion.This is yet another junk circuit from JLCPCB.I got PCB from jlcpcb, but cannot

recommend them (cheap, but bad quality)

Message to people that read this years after.
Do not listen to @lucyilly.
JLCPCB provides very good quality for years, same as PCBWay so he doesn't even know what he is talking about...
How to get 2 amp output from this circuit ?

I modded the device to 12V, but unfortunately the step up driver gets very hot when it is loaded with a 400mAh load. I added a heat sink so the circuit does not enter the overheat shut down protection but it still gets very hot. I added a thermal image after using it for 10 minutes. You see around the step up switcher ic, the temp is at 70 degree Celsius.

That's because the feedback resistors are inverted on his schematic, happened the same to me, so i decided to look up on the datasheet and make the Vout calculation and found out the problem. How it is, there is not enough feedback so the IC keeps pulsing until it shorts down itself.
You have to change R2= 1K and R3=7.5K and you also need to replace the IC, you probably have a short to GND on IN pin.
R2 and R3 are inverted, R1 should be 1K and R3=7.5K, this schematic is wrong on the feedback system. As far as is see, there is no other problem.
Thanks
Edit: no longer relevant.
Hello GreatScott.
I would like to use this circuit as a power supply for my small project. I need to be able to run Arduino from the battery and, when connected [in my case USB], automatically switch Arduino to USB and charge the battery. is this circuit capable, or can you advise me please.
Thank you in advance for your reply.

I know this was posted months ago, so I apologize for necromancing this thread.

In the parts list, two 22uF ceramic capacitors in package size 1812 were used. But of all the components, these LCSC #C28504 are the most expensive - 0.81 USD at the time of this writing. If you wanted to build 10 of these boards, you're nearly $15 USD just for these capacitors.

I suspect you selected these because you already had some on-hand. But this leads me to a question...

Is there any reason a capacitor of the same or similar values (eg. LCSC #C129303) could replace this? The latter cost currently 0.07 USD. I think the answer is no, but I want your opinion.

Now this leads to another question about making the board a little bit "modular"? What I mean to ask is, in your experience, is it reasonable to create a board that will accept the same part in a different package sizes on the same, largest pads? I've attached a picture to help clarify.

The best reasons I can think of are

1: It could be confusing, complicates or messes up the BOM

2: It's (probably) not a best practice, or for some reason frowned upon.

3. EasyEDA might not let you (still inexperienced, so I don't know the answer to this.)

What are your thoughts on this subject?

You can change capacitors but for best result you must add to output one tantalum capacitor 100uF10V and 2200uf10V electrolytic capacitor because in my practice i saw this module do not working with some display modules because on the output we have a bad noice.

Regarding ordering components from LCSC - I see on their website a "BOM TOOL" which can import a spreadsheet listing all the components. So, why not include a parts spreadsheet?

Awesome...always love your designs and things!
Shared this at OSHPark for another way to order the boards...

https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/u9rscwQi

why did you choose 603 parts.

Awesome! What should I change if I want the exact same characteristics but with an output of 3.3V?

Try creating a voltage divider on the output of the circuit.

but it s a boost converter ic , i don.t think you can get lower than the 4v or input voltage of i.c

voltage divider maded by 2 resistort and midle to fb of boost ic .

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