Door Table
Intro: Door Table
Upgrade a used hollow core interior door into a decent lightweight table, with the help of a couple of pieces of construction lumber. The 1 x 4's around the outside give it a finished look and stiffen the table considerably, and with the help of a couple of crosspieces, give the legs something to be attached to. Assuming you have a free door, the table will cost you less than $5, and will recycle something that is otherwise likely to be dumped.
STEP 1: Materials and Tools
You'll need a used hollow core interior door - a smooth rather than an embossed one, of course!
One 10' length of 2 x 4 construction lumber, which you will rip into two 1 x 4's. Pick the straightest, cleanest piece you can find. If you don't have a bench saw, you'll need enough 1 x 4 to go around the table - approximately two 7' lengths and two 3' lengths (three 8' pieces is plenty).
One 8' length of 2 x 4 construction lumber, which you will rip into two 2 x 2's. Pick the straightest, cleanest piece you can find. If you don't have a bench saw, you'll need enough 2 x 2 to make the four legs and two crosspieces - approximately six 3' lengths (two 8' pieces is fine).
A bench (or table) saw is necessary to rip the 2 x 4's. A miter saw is handy to cut the wood to length. I used a brad nailer, wood glue, and a few deck screws to assemble the table. Wood filler, an orbital sander, and paint was used to finish the table, but all that is unnecessary if you're just going to use it as a utility table.
One 10' length of 2 x 4 construction lumber, which you will rip into two 1 x 4's. Pick the straightest, cleanest piece you can find. If you don't have a bench saw, you'll need enough 1 x 4 to go around the table - approximately two 7' lengths and two 3' lengths (three 8' pieces is plenty).
One 8' length of 2 x 4 construction lumber, which you will rip into two 2 x 2's. Pick the straightest, cleanest piece you can find. If you don't have a bench saw, you'll need enough 2 x 2 to make the four legs and two crosspieces - approximately six 3' lengths (two 8' pieces is fine).
A bench (or table) saw is necessary to rip the 2 x 4's. A miter saw is handy to cut the wood to length. I used a brad nailer, wood glue, and a few deck screws to assemble the table. Wood filler, an orbital sander, and paint was used to finish the table, but all that is unnecessary if you're just going to use it as a utility table.
STEP 2: Rip Lumber
Rip the 10' length of 2 x 4 into two (nominally) 1 x 4's. Since 2 x 4 is really 1.5 x 3.5, and the kerf is not negligible, the lumber will come out under 3/4" thick. You'll have to take two passes, flipping the board over for the second pass.
Rip the 8' length of 2 x 4 into two 2 x 2's. They'll form the legs and cross-braces.
Rip the 8' length of 2 x 4 into two 2 x 2's. They'll form the legs and cross-braces.
STEP 3: Edges
Your 1 x 4 will form the edges of your table, so miter one end and measure against the edge of the table. Mark and cut carefully, because miters are pretty unforgiving. If you don't have a miter saw, a butt joint may be more appropriate.
Assemble using wood glue and brad nailer, as shown.
Assemble using wood glue and brad nailer, as shown.
STEP 4: Legs
The 2 x 2's are deliberately light, to help convey the idea this is not a heavyweight table and that you probably shouldn't sit on it!
I cut two pieces to fit inside the underside of the table, to strengthen the top and to provide something else for the legs to screw into. They're 400 mm (16") from each end, but just pick a distance that you think looks right. I cut the legs to make the table 780 mm (31") high, so it lined up with our sewing table. The legs were glued and brad nailed in place, then screwed into through the edges and to the crossbrace. The leg positioning is not critical, but the closer they are to the end the easier the table will be to get through doors. There is hardware available to allow you to easily make folding legs, but they'll triple the cost of your door...
Glue and nail a patch of plywood over the hole, then cut some pieces of wood to fill the hole from the top side (jmarusoi helpfully points out that if you're going to use the table for a computer, leaving the hole open provides a neat way to deal with the cables).
I cut two pieces to fit inside the underside of the table, to strengthen the top and to provide something else for the legs to screw into. They're 400 mm (16") from each end, but just pick a distance that you think looks right. I cut the legs to make the table 780 mm (31") high, so it lined up with our sewing table. The legs were glued and brad nailed in place, then screwed into through the edges and to the crossbrace. The leg positioning is not critical, but the closer they are to the end the easier the table will be to get through doors. There is hardware available to allow you to easily make folding legs, but they'll triple the cost of your door...
Glue and nail a patch of plywood over the hole, then cut some pieces of wood to fill the hole from the top side (jmarusoi helpfully points out that if you're going to use the table for a computer, leaving the hole open provides a neat way to deal with the cables).
STEP 5: Fill, Sand and Paint
Spend as much time as you feel like on this step - it doesn't make the table any more functional, just makes it look cleaner. Filling the holes with wood filler, sanding and painting take a lot longer than actually building the table!
18 Comments
cheapo 7 years ago
Excellent! I just bought a fire door for £18 for this very purpose. It's not light weight, but then it's my workbench. I'll just be adding the sides to finish it off and to make it a bit deeper as it's only 687mm (27"), so I hope I can add about 60mm to it. It's for making RC airplanes, mostly using foam board.
makendo 7 years ago
Nice, 18 quid seems a good deal for a fire door (used?). If you surrounded it by 2x4 you'd add 76 mm to the width and it would be pretty cheap and make it dead solid. Have fun with the build.
cheapo 7 years ago
I think if would have been £47 normally. But one of our two local B&Q stores is closing. So I've managed to pick up a few bargains in the last couple of weeks.
Gonna nip in there today too, if they're still open that is. When things get very cheap, you suddenly realize that you needed them after all. :¬)
amuñoz21 11 years ago
Is perfect for big jigsaw puzzles :)
kpafford 12 years ago
makendo 12 years ago
jwystup 12 years ago
makendo 12 years ago
jmarusoi 12 years ago
If the intended use for this is a computer table then the door handle hole doesn't need to be filled in, it is actually useful for running cables through it.
Also, saves some work.
makendo 12 years ago
Lorddrake 12 years ago
great reuse for a door. the closest I ever got to doing this was flopping an old door across 2 sawhorse to make a makeshift table .
(your looks much nicer)
maybe i can use this to convince my wife to let me get a nailgun hehehe
makendo 12 years ago
I recommend the nailgun. If you don't need the compressor (though it's good for inflating and cleaning things, too), the electric ones work well too.
caarntedd 12 years ago
makendo 12 years ago
Eye Poker 12 years ago
makendo 12 years ago
They're charming boys, really... :)
Wi11 12 years ago
makendo 12 years ago