Drywall Sanding Dust Collector/Separator
Intro: Drywall Sanding Dust Collector/Separator
Drywall sanding produces lots of dust no matter how dust free your joint compound claims to be, Drywall dust will quickly clog your shop vac filter and shorten the life of your vacuum.
There is a wide selection of drywall dust separators on the market from $50 or so on up to several hundred dollars for a nice Festool extractor. Being a DIY homeowner, taping drywall is not a full time job and doesn't warrant spending the money, so I decided to make my own with about $20 at the local hardware store, This price can be more or less depending on how you make it and what items you might have lying around, I could have used an old bucket but opted to buy a new one for this project, about $5 for bucket and lid at Lowes.
There is a wide selection of drywall dust separators on the market from $50 or so on up to several hundred dollars for a nice Festool extractor. Being a DIY homeowner, taping drywall is not a full time job and doesn't warrant spending the money, so I decided to make my own with about $20 at the local hardware store, This price can be more or less depending on how you make it and what items you might have lying around, I could have used an old bucket but opted to buy a new one for this project, about $5 for bucket and lid at Lowes.
STEP 1: Shopping List
There are numerous ways to configure this with PVC pipe and hoses. I chose to do this with a combination of threaded and slip PVC fittings for my shop vac that has a 1 1/4" hose.
1 - Bucket and Lid
1 - 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe, cut in several sections: 1 x 12" and 4 x 1 1/2"
4 - 1" PVC female slip to male threaded
1 - 1" PVC threaded coupling
1 - 1" PVC slip to threaded coupling
2 - 1" PVC slip 90 degree elbows
1 - 1" PVC female slip to male threader 90 degree elbow
PVC primer and glue
All purpose PVC glue
Tools
Hacksaw to cut PVC pipe
1 1/8" spade bit or hole saw (I used a 1" spade bit and widened the hole with a box cutter)
1 - Bucket and Lid
1 - 1" schedule 40 PVC pipe, cut in several sections: 1 x 12" and 4 x 1 1/2"
4 - 1" PVC female slip to male threaded
1 - 1" PVC threaded coupling
1 - 1" PVC slip to threaded coupling
2 - 1" PVC slip 90 degree elbows
1 - 1" PVC female slip to male threader 90 degree elbow
PVC primer and glue
All purpose PVC glue
Tools
Hacksaw to cut PVC pipe
1 1/8" spade bit or hole saw (I used a 1" spade bit and widened the hole with a box cutter)
STEP 2: Prep and Assembly
Drill the holes in your bucket, I'm not certain that placement is important but I put the sander hole in the center and the vacuum hole near the rim. Hole should be slightly undersized so PVC thread ends can screw in tightly.
Cut the PVC pieces, 1 x 12" piece and 4 x 1 1/2" pieces. I used a hacksaw, but a sawzall might make faster work of this. Sand the ends to remove any burrs.
Dry fit all of your PVC pipe and fittings to ensure you have everything in order. I failed to take a picture of the fittings laid out, so please see the sketch.
PVC primer all of your slip ends. WEAR GLOVES, PVC primer and glue is nasty stuff and does not come off easily, so unless you want sticky purple hands, wear gloves.
PVC glue all of your slip ends and push together your fittings, If you never done this before, you may want to glue them one by one, PVC glue has very little working time, precious few seconds.
Use the general purpose glue on the PVC threads that will go through the bucket lid, screw the threads through the lid and then screw your threaded ends together, till the lid is firmly between the two ends.
Cut the PVC pieces, 1 x 12" piece and 4 x 1 1/2" pieces. I used a hacksaw, but a sawzall might make faster work of this. Sand the ends to remove any burrs.
Dry fit all of your PVC pipe and fittings to ensure you have everything in order. I failed to take a picture of the fittings laid out, so please see the sketch.
PVC primer all of your slip ends. WEAR GLOVES, PVC primer and glue is nasty stuff and does not come off easily, so unless you want sticky purple hands, wear gloves.
PVC glue all of your slip ends and push together your fittings, If you never done this before, you may want to glue them one by one, PVC glue has very little working time, precious few seconds.
Use the general purpose glue on the PVC threads that will go through the bucket lid, screw the threads through the lid and then screw your threaded ends together, till the lid is firmly between the two ends.
STEP 3: Done
Add water to your bucket so that the end of the center tail pipe is under water.
Attached completed lid assembly.
Attach sander hose to intake pipe and vacuum hose to exhaust pipe.
You might need a hose clamp if your vacuum hose does not fit snugly, my sander hose fit very tightly, but the vacuum hose was a bit loose.
Happy sanding!
Attached completed lid assembly.
Attach sander hose to intake pipe and vacuum hose to exhaust pipe.
You might need a hose clamp if your vacuum hose does not fit snugly, my sander hose fit very tightly, but the vacuum hose was a bit loose.
Happy sanding!
72 Comments
bd1355561 1 year ago
preconnect150 3 years ago
thardy2 2 years ago
jtharkness 10 years ago
CliffSFCA 4 years ago
Mugsy Knuckles 10 years ago
For additional reference material, find a pothead with a water pipe. Same thing.
jtharkness 10 years ago
I look forward to future 'ibls.
abeyer42 5 years ago
SunnyK66 5 years ago
Randyrandy74 5 years ago
Topher60657 6 years ago
jmedina37 7 years ago
Will this work for airbrush paint extractor?
onemoroni1 7 years ago
Going to make this as filters are a pain to bang out the dust and blow out plus too expensive to keep replacing. I am thinking of adding half inch holes in the underwater part of the intake pipe to aid in water contact with the dust.
Pa1963 8 years ago
For the connection through the lid, get a couple of close threaded nipples, then go to the electrical dept. and pick up some lock nuts and reducing washers.
zenbooter 8 years ago
I worked for 50 yrs in Jersey. lived in Piscataway mostly. bought one of these things from hd when they opened the p,burg store. could,nt believe the efficiency of it. got parted from it along the way. now flipping houses in Kentucky and doing drywall. let you know how it works when built. thanks a bunch for this, great idea.
Artur Zawadzki 9 years ago
naprawde fajne
coran121 10 years ago
Other than that this is an awesome simple, cheap fix to a problem! Thanks!
nitesurfer 10 years ago
I was looking at my old shop vac and a bucket and was wondering if it would be possible to do something like this as a dust separator for my workshop and also for plastering.... as i am fitting plasterboard ( aussie drywall ;) ) and it is amazing how you get ten times more dust back when you sand the jointing compound.
I would never have thought of putting water in the bottom to stop the dust but i can see ti will work brilliantly on plaster dust..
Could you tell me how long it takes before the water stops filtering the air or does it just keep going as the dried compound doesnt mix with water?
Also could this set up be used to filter wood dust from a router and saw etc..
Cheers
jimbru 10 years ago
If you add the static electricity from a plastic bucket where a vortex of air spins the sawdust in high speed around the sides you have a potentially dangerous contraption.
This is why commercial separators are made of metal not plastic.
One way to mitigate the risk of self ignition would be to add a grounding strip/cable and connect it to something grounded. For example a waterpipe or radiator(if you have waterfilled radiators and not electrical ones)
(Sorry if the technical terms are not correct, English is not my first language.. :-) I hope you get the gist of my post)
nitesurfer 10 years ago
I guess the same risk exists with the plastic cyclonic separators too then....