Fluorescent Tube Illumination
Intro: Fluorescent Tube Illumination
Pre story:
It all begun when the lamp in our bath started to blink like a disco lamp - blinking all the time. All of a sudden on the next day it did not have any signs of life ... it was dead.
We decided to simply replace it and went out to the store. Surprisingly the new replacement lamp was 10 pounds and we decided not to buy it from that shop :(
We went home sad ... and later that evening ... EUREKA !!! Why don't we use another lamp that I bought earlier this week just to have a spare one and it was only 30 pence, what a bargain I thought.
Not only it looks so cool, but it also works just perfect.
It all begun when the lamp in our bath started to blink like a disco lamp - blinking all the time. All of a sudden on the next day it did not have any signs of life ... it was dead.
We decided to simply replace it and went out to the store. Surprisingly the new replacement lamp was 10 pounds and we decided not to buy it from that shop :(
We went home sad ... and later that evening ... EUREKA !!! Why don't we use another lamp that I bought earlier this week just to have a spare one and it was only 30 pence, what a bargain I thought.
Not only it looks so cool, but it also works just perfect.
STEP 1: Risk Evaluation
- Reproducing the steps in this instructable may harm you.
- Be careful when working with high voltage, take all possible safety actions.
- You have to have appropriate knowledge and training.
- Use the right tools.
STEP 2: What? Why? How?
What? We will be replacing the square-like lamp with the other one. Firstly notice that the lamps have different connectors. One you screw in to the socket, one you simply push in to the socket. Not only the connectors, but also the characteristics of the electronic circuits!
Why? It has all to do with the construction of these lamps. They need special control circuit to limit the current through the tube, which would otherwise rise to destructive levels due to the tube's negative resistance characteristic [wikipedia]. (Read more in the links below)
How? The thing is that the fluorescent tube of our original lamp was separated from the starter and the ballast circuitry. On the other hand the new lamp had the starter and ballast circuitry attached to it, so it had to be separated.
Fluorescent lamps - read more
Starters for fluorescent lamps - read more
Ballast for fluorescent lamps - read more
Why was it not working? See the dark spot on the glass tube - this is the problem that caused the lamp to blink and then stop. This could be caused by a weak starter or ballast.
Why? It has all to do with the construction of these lamps. They need special control circuit to limit the current through the tube, which would otherwise rise to destructive levels due to the tube's negative resistance characteristic [wikipedia]. (Read more in the links below)
How? The thing is that the fluorescent tube of our original lamp was separated from the starter and the ballast circuitry. On the other hand the new lamp had the starter and ballast circuitry attached to it, so it had to be separated.
Fluorescent lamps - read more
Starters for fluorescent lamps - read more
Ballast for fluorescent lamps - read more
Why was it not working? See the dark spot on the glass tube - this is the problem that caused the lamp to blink and then stop. This could be caused by a weak starter or ballast.
STEP 3: Separate the Plastic Base
Extract the glass tubing from the lamp. It's not good to break it.
Remember how you cut the connections: one end of tube from left connections, other end of tube from the right connections.
We need the plastic base that has the connections on it.
Remember how you cut the connections: one end of tube from left connections, other end of tube from the right connections.
We need the plastic base that has the connections on it.
STEP 4: Separate the New Glass Tube
Extract the glass tubing from this lamp.
Unsolder the four wires that are soldered to the circuit.
Unsolder the four wires that are soldered to the circuit.
STEP 5: Soldering
Put 1-1.5cm long heat shrink tubes on the four cables.
Solder the cables of the new glass tubing to the old lamp's plastic holder.
Make sure you don't get the connections wrong. One end of tube to left connections, other end of tube to the right connections - just as before.
Solder the cables of the new glass tubing to the old lamp's plastic holder.
Make sure you don't get the connections wrong. One end of tube to left connections, other end of tube to the right connections - just as before.
STEP 6: Insulation
Heat to shrink the shrink tubes. This will insulate the soldered cables from each other.
STEP 7: Ready
Put the plastic parts of the base together and we are ready!
It looks like a space ship now.
It looks like a space ship now.
STEP 8: Finishing Touches
I only added a wire to hold the front end not fall down.
STEP 9: Climb Up to the Ceiling
Replace starter!
It's a matter of unscrewing the old one and screwing the new starter. Just make sure the wattage is OK. The new lamp we put was 11W, and the new starter can work with lamps in the range: 4-80W.
Now replace the new tubing to its place!
It's a matter of unscrewing the old one and screwing the new starter. Just make sure the wattage is OK. The new lamp we put was 11W, and the new starter can work with lamps in the range: 4-80W.
Now replace the new tubing to its place!
STEP 10: Flip the Switch and Enjoy
Enjoy your new light!
As you can see - Party is in progress.
Thanks for watching and let me know your ideas and suggestions.
As you can see - Party is in progress.
Thanks for watching and let me know your ideas and suggestions.
26 Comments
poofrabbit 11 years ago
hertzgamma 11 years ago
epierce 11 years ago
VadimS 11 years ago
Long tube fluorescent has bean the most efficiency light source sins the 50's.
They have steadily gotten better, always ahead of everything but HID (wich isn't well suited for homes).
4ft T8 (1 inch diameter) build vs a CFL
20,000 hours...................... 8,000 hours
32w***..................................42w
2850 Lumens.....................2850 Lumens
5$..........................................$18
89-100l/w.............................68l/w
15$ a year#.........................$36 a year#
*: The 32w rating on these bulbs are what is needed on the input side of a magnetic ballast to achieve the rated output. Using a high efficiency electronic ballast it could be as low as 24w. Any light bought it the last few years will have an electronic ballast, expect the draw to be about 28w, and as a bonus they don't hum.
#Using 28w for the T8 running 12 hours a day, including bulb replacement costs. I didn't include Ballast replacement as they typically last 20 years.
When electronic ballasts first came out they had problems, but they are good now, and sins they don't suffer from the faults of the old magnetic ballasts (the old magnetic ones would kill themselves if left on with a bad bulb) and when they do go, they are only $15.
diy_bloke 11 years ago
chrwei 11 years ago
40" length rated for 1200 lumens directional, 14W. the T8 tube's 2850 lumens is for the total light about. at least half of that has to be reflected, and a lot of the light is absorbed. Estimated $32 in electricity cost per 20" strip per lifetime (20 years at 50 hours a week)
I've recently installed some these under by kitchen cabinets. they're really pretty great, and easy to install since there's 1 power supply and the wiring runs are all 24V DC.
VadimS 11 years ago
LED vs. 4ft T8 (1 inch diameter) build vs a CFL
50,000............20,000 hours............ 8,000 hours
21.6................32w***.........................42w
1800...............2850 lm......................2850 lm
$150...............$5................................$18 Cost for bulbs
95l/w...............89-100l/w...................68l/w
$24.................$15 a year#................$36 a year#
11.4................4.6................................1.8 lifetime, years
LEDs are the future, but it's not there yet, if it where you'd see them lighting Walmart.
VadimS 11 years ago
http://www.luxeonstar.com/ANSI-White-5028K-Tri-Star-CoolBase-LED-600-lm-p/sr-03-5000-200.htm
These modules are rated at 600lm at 700ma, so the following numbers assume 3 modules.
50,000 hours
18.9w 21w with power supply losses
1800lm
$39.50
95l/w
$12.40 a year
$14 year lifetime
A power supply is needed, but if built properly it should last a lifetime. A 750kv supply in the basement could run low voltage power for the house.
I picked 5028K as I prefer a cooler light similar to daylight.
So, commercial LED lights aren't worthwhile, but if you build your own it may be, not much cheaper then florescent, but better for the environment.
chrwei 11 years ago
VadimS 11 years ago
VadimS 11 years ago
chrwei 11 years ago
Here's a photo in a dark-ish room with single 7W 20" led strip where you'd normally have a 18W tube. https://picasaweb.google.com/112618105968052365253/Oct202012?authkey=Gv1sRgCOno5Lrf7vuANw#5783640813471250530
LED's give more usable light per watt, rated lumens aren't everything.
VadimS 11 years ago
That is a direct copy and paste from the link you provided.
A single 48" florescent tube is 2850lm, if you take into account the fact that not all the light shining up is reflected down you get about 1800lm (63%) that is 3 strips.
That is 21.6w.
hertzgamma 11 years ago
diy_bloke 11 years ago
Chinasaur 11 years ago
hertzgamma 11 years ago
Also, if you take the starter out and inspect it you will notice the power ratings written on its side - this shall be taken into account. Mostly I think these values are wide enough to allow replacement bulbs to fit the power requirements.
tiger12506 11 years ago
With this instructable, each and every bulb needs to be modified to fit -- and one isn't sure that the original driving circuitry for the large square bulb is appropriate for the compact fluorescent.
It would be much much easier -- and much much more permanent to add a screw socket inside the old fixture in parallel with the existing circuitry (run from live and neutral), so that in the future, one could replace the bulb with a new one easily.
orator 11 years ago
hertzgamma 11 years ago
I would only not agree with the timing - that replacement I did could take me 20 minutes maximum (behind the desk) and two climbs up the ladder.