chrwei

you're basically asking "what classic muscle car should I get". there's no universal answer, it mostly depends on the size you want, and what your tolerance for fiddling is. The least fiddly printer I've used is a monoprice mini delta, drawback is that it's really small, and because it's so cheap it'll wear out. it's not very hard to fix, but for some things you'll need access to another printer as you can't just order all the parts. I've also used a creality cr-10s, it prints great once tuned in, but getting that bed level is a fiddly pain. I've also used a few custom builds (deltas, core XY, and cartesian) that friends built, they seem to always be messing with them, and the 2 commercial ones printed just as well with less fiddling. Except for one guy that fiddles a LOT,…

you're basically asking "what classic muscle car should I get". there's no universal answer, it mostly depends on the size you want, and what your tolerance for fiddling is. The least fiddly printer I've used is a monoprice mini delta, drawback is that it's really small, and because it's so cheap it'll wear out. it's not very hard to fix, but for some things you'll need access to another printer as you can't just order all the parts. I've also used a creality cr-10s, it prints great once tuned in, but getting that bed level is a fiddly pain. I've also used a few custom builds (deltas, core XY, and cartesian) that friends built, they seem to always be messing with them, and the 2 commercial ones printed just as well with less fiddling. Except for one guy that fiddles a LOT, dude's a 3d printer whisperer, and his printers get pro-level results, but even he was impressed with the monoprice mini detla "out of the box" quality.I'd recommend joining 3D print focused communities and find a local 3d printing meetup group, read their existing "what printer should I get" posts.

nice idea! the key still works, right? so not any more risky than the original.upgrade ideas, use deep sleep and only connect to wifi and update the time when a pin is entered, it'll have a little lag before unlocking, but if you thread that on the first keypress it shouldn't be bad. the hard part of that will be making it wake on any key press. Then you can run on a lipo battery, should handle a couple years idle, but each unlock would shorten that. you'll be able to keep bd use the safe somewhere without easy access to power, like in a closet. keep the power port for charging and quick use in case battery dies.

For the boot issue, have you tried a pullup resistor on the RX pin? I've had that work when using Nextion displays.What range are you seeing with your setup? I know the 10km rating requires large outdoor antenna and line of sight between them.

Even ABS goes squishy at 220F, not gonna work in a BBQ. The pipes would have to be mounted very differently and driven entirely outside.

I usually use the library linked in my Step 5. it has examples for alarms and resolution

Fun project!One note: "scotch" is a brand that makes all sorts of tape. In the US "scotch tape" used generically means the little stuff use in wrapping gifts and such, which just would not do here. What you've shown in the picture is generically known as "packing tape", and any brand of it would do.

not the wrap, the tape.

I've toss this kind of project around in my head for a while, but my porch as some odd angles that are holding me back.does this get any full sun, and do you get any green-housing effect warmth on sunny days?

ah, the windows store version has all sorts of oddball issues unless you're just doing official boards. purge it and install the official arduino.cc windows installer

that's only an output summary, would need to see the whole error message. most likely you're missing the library install step

the easiest would be to use one the existing i2c motor contollers out there. Seeed makes one based on the atmega8 that can be reprogrammed. you could modify its program and use the icsp header's data pins for your home sensor.

if you don't consider paint a toxic chemical then you are missing the point. you can buy lots of toxic items a grocery store. portraying spray paint as an inert substance is just irresponsible. in many places you even have to show an ID and be over 18 years to buy it.

then say "less toxic chemicals" because spray paint is still a toxic man made chemical, it's just not corrosive or poisonous when used as directed.

probably a problem with your wiring. can you flash a Blink sketch to it?

I have a 6 55 gallon barrels raised 7 feet and at the end of a 50ft 3/4" hose it's just enough to gently water plants. if I want to run a sprinkler or shoot water more than 2 feet I'd still need a pump.

for(int c=65; c<91; c++) { Serial.println((char)c);}but seriously... if you're looking to hire someone, I'm sure there are freelance sites you can find someone on. I don't do that, and I don't think that's what this site is for either.

no, but it will only charge it effectively when the laptop powered off, and it'll still be on the slow side.

the photos in step2 you can see black spots at some of the joints, those are bolts that act as hinges. I agree some more detailed photos and instructions would be helpful.

the stitching and grommet give this a nice professional look, but aren't really necessary. I just put the fender bolt through the hot-nailed hole and that's it, it's a tight fit and gives more bolt to strap surface for holding power than using a grommet, which easily offsets the losses from stitching. I've had mine on for 2 years now and they still look as good as when I added them. in either case, always inspect your straps before each use!