Glass Etching Using Toner Transfer Templates
Intro: Glass Etching Using Toner Transfer Templates
I recently began experimenting with glass etching cream. There's a lot of creative things you can do with it, but to create really cool designs you need to spend a LOT of time trimming your stencils. I wanted to find a quicker way to create complex designs and realized that the toner transfer technique used when creating your own circuit boards just might work. What follows is a proof of concept for this technique:
STEP 1: Tools & Materials
Glass
Glass Etching Cream (such as Armour Etch)
Disposable brush
Latex gloves
Leather gloves
Masking tape
Glossy printer paper
Scissors
Lacquer Thinner
Iron
Ironing board or cotton towel (nothing synthetic or it could melt)
Laser Printer or Photocopier
Glass Etching Cream (such as Armour Etch)
Disposable brush
Latex gloves
Leather gloves
Masking tape
Glossy printer paper
Scissors
Lacquer Thinner
Iron
Ironing board or cotton towel (nothing synthetic or it could melt)
Laser Printer or Photocopier
STEP 2: Print and Trim Your Stencils
Find some stencils and create negative image prints of them.
You will need to either print using a Laser printer, or you can print on an inkjet and then make photocopies. You will not be able to transfer inkjet printed designs directly. Make sure the printer is on its highest resolution and print using black toner only.
The white area should be the design you want etched. Keep in mind that glass etching creams only work well with small areas, so don't go overboard.
All of my pieces were only about 2.5" wide.
Trace the glass outline onto the paper, and then affix two ends with masking tape. Note: Make sure the glass is VERY clean. Any oil or dirt can cause problems with the toner and etching cream.
You will need to either print using a Laser printer, or you can print on an inkjet and then make photocopies. You will not be able to transfer inkjet printed designs directly. Make sure the printer is on its highest resolution and print using black toner only.
The white area should be the design you want etched. Keep in mind that glass etching creams only work well with small areas, so don't go overboard.
All of my pieces were only about 2.5" wide.
Trace the glass outline onto the paper, and then affix two ends with masking tape. Note: Make sure the glass is VERY clean. Any oil or dirt can cause problems with the toner and etching cream.
STEP 3: Toner Transfer
Use the leather gloves for this step! Glass conducts heat incredibly well!
Be sure there is no water in your iron and set it to the highest setting. Once your iron is incredibly hot begin applying it to the back of the paper. Try to cover all areas of the stencil with equal pressure and heat. This step is tricky. Not enough and the toner wont transfer. Too much and the paper may bind to the glass. Glossy paper transfers the easiest, but also has a higher tendency to stick to the glass. Keep in mind that quick changes in temperature will cause glass to crack. Let these slowly cool at room temperature. Resist the urge to run them under the sink!
Be sure there is no water in your iron and set it to the highest setting. Once your iron is incredibly hot begin applying it to the back of the paper. Try to cover all areas of the stencil with equal pressure and heat. This step is tricky. Not enough and the toner wont transfer. Too much and the paper may bind to the glass. Glossy paper transfers the easiest, but also has a higher tendency to stick to the glass. Keep in mind that quick changes in temperature will cause glass to crack. Let these slowly cool at room temperature. Resist the urge to run them under the sink!
STEP 4: Remove the Stencils
Once the glass has coolled, carefully pull the paper from the glass. Most of the toner should remain on the glass. Unfortunately the paper on the Ninja-Nun stencil got too hot and I was unable to remove it without damaging the toner. If this happens, you can clean the glass with Lacquer thinner and try it again.
STEP 5: Apply Etching Cream
Use the latex gloves for this step! Etching Cream is VERY nasty stuff. Even a small amount can be absorbed into your skin and cause death! Be sure to read the warnings on the back of the bottle carefully before use!
Brush on the cream, avoiding areas you don't want etched. I usually swirl the cream a bit on the glass to make sure I get an even etching. Let sit for 5 minutes.
STEP 6: Clean the Glass
The etching cream can now be rinsed off with just water. Some of the toner will now probably flake off as well. Once you have rinsed and dried the glass, use a paper towel and Lacquer thinner to wipe off the remaining toner. Finally clean the pieces with glass cleaner and enjoy your work of art!
The etching shows up quite well in person, but it was very hard to get a good photo of them.
If you enjoyed this instructable please rate it, and be sure to check out my other instructables!
The etching shows up quite well in person, but it was very hard to get a good photo of them.
If you enjoyed this instructable please rate it, and be sure to check out my other instructables!
29 Comments
SteveL41 6 years ago
Next time you take photos put them on a black background. The etching will show up much better.
Zaacharia 7 years ago
Back when I was young and stupid, I bought a half-gallon of hydrofluoric acid, some dishwashing gloves, and wax. I would coat a plate of glass in wax, carve the design into the wax then drop it into the HF bath. It worked but now that I look back I understand why the windows in the kitchen started to blur - and now, 40 years later, am having some 'interesting' breathing issues (sigh). I now use the paste but sort of miss the days of clueless stupidity - we also set up a bronze foundry using propeller bronze and could not understand why it was so difficult to detail after the casting, another heavy sigh!
nireves1 8 years ago
Hi and thanks for the instructable!
I'm having real problems with the toner transfer (both on glass and on metal)
I used a laserprinter and glossy paper but i just can't get anything to stick!
Not the toner not the paper.
My iron is on the highest setting but even if i leave it on for 20 minutes nothing will stick.
What am i doing wrong?
nireves1 8 years ago
Hi and thanks for the instructable!
I'm having real problems with the toner transfer (both on glass and on metal)
I used a laserprinter and glossy paper but i just can't get anything to stick!
Not the toner not the paper.
My iron is on the highest setting but even if i leave it on for 20 minutes nothing will stick.
What am i doing wrong?
babycody 9 years ago
I was curious if your method could be combined with this method http://jenwoodhouse.com/blog/2014/03/13/diy-gold-foil-prints/#comment-122800 to create a glass gilding effect. Maybe this would even work with gold leaf instead of foil.
rabeatz 12 years ago
kaptaink_cg 12 years ago
Aight_then 11 years ago
rabeatz 11 years ago
What kind of paper are you using for your transfers?
Aight_then 11 years ago
rabeatz 12 years ago
jphphotography 12 years ago
Oh and one other thing, for those ones that had the paper stuck to the glass, did you try soaking them then gently rubbing off the paper? This is how the PCB method needs to be done but I could see the toner coming off too since the glass is so smooth.
Anyway thanks for the instructable, I'm going to try this soon. I'm just using cheap dollar store photo frame glass anyway so if I lose a few due to cracking its not that expensive :)
davidkichi 12 years ago
lumpee 12 years ago
LawnBoy1991 14 years ago
technosasquatch 13 years ago
Saint 14 years ago
hinge 13 years ago
kaptaink_cg 13 years ago
ubercool 13 years ago