Hidden Fridge Gap Slide-Out Pantry
Intro: Hidden Fridge Gap Slide-Out Pantry
In this Instructable, you will learn how to steal some much needed kitchen storage, and not take up any more room in doing so.
I live in a small apartment with an even smaller kitchen that is lacking in the storage department. So I needed a new cabinet, and since I do NOT have permission to put big holes in the walls for more cabinetry, I thought that the 4.5 inch gap between my refrigerator and the wall could work.
I am now able to just pull the pantry out and grab whatever I need and slide it back into hiding. I love how much storage it actually has and that it does not take up any additional space.
Oh and the process will be much faster and less sweat inducing if you have an electric saw and not just a hacksaw.
STEP 1: Materials
The necessary materials that I used for this project are listed below, but you can easily vary the measurements.
- (1) 24" x 48" x 0.75" wood board
- (1) 5" x 8' x 0.5" wood boards
- (6) 24" x 4" x 0.5" wood boards
- (1) 24" x 4" x 0.75" wood board for the base
- (1) handle with attaching hardware
- (2) 3" caster wheels
- (6) 25" x 0.25" wooden dowels
- wood glue
- wood screws (screws for wood, not sure wooden screw exist haha)
STEP 2: Framing the Pantry
Thankfully I didn't have to do much cutting, I cut the big 5" x 8' x 0.5" board in half creating two equal 4 foot pieces. These two 4 foot pieces are the sides of the pantry, but they were too wide so it would not fit in the small gap. I had to cut them down to be 4 inches.
For the bottom shelf, use the 24" x 4" x 0.75" piece
For the top shelf, use one of the 24" x 4" x 0.5" pieces
Now that all of the wood for the pantry is cut, time to glue and join them with screws, which is pretty self explanatory.
STEP 3: Shelving
With the remaining five 24" x 4" x 0.5" wood pieces, I spaced them out roughly like this:
(from top to bottom)
4.5"
6.5"
6.5"
7.5"
9.25"
11.25"
Then drill the holes for the wood dowels to slide through for each shelf, and cut the wood dowels to 25.5".
The space between the shelf and dowels depends on the content you plan on storing.
STEP 4: The Finishing Touches
Let's start with adding the wheels first:
- locate the center of the bottom board and space the wheels out evenly on the board.
- since I didn't want the bolts for the wheels to show through the board, I used hot glue to apply the wheels to the board.
Now it's just the handle that is standing between you and your new sliding pantry:
- stand the pantry up on the wheels and determine where the handle should be based on your preference/height,
- once you have the height you want, locate the center of the side panel and drill 2 holes that align with the handle.
- use the attaching hardware and attach the handle
Enjoy using your newly acquired kitchen storage.
159 Comments
cmssultana 3 months ago
CherreeW 2 years ago
m.hutchinson 9 years ago
To securely attach the caster wheels to the bottom, you could use tee nuts (sometimes called t-nuts) to provide a tight threaded screw mount. They are available at most hardware and home improvement stores.
To use a tee nut, simply drill a hole as large as the center stem, then place the tee nut prongs down in the hole from the top of the board. Now thread a machine thread (not a wood screw) screw up from the caster wheel base plate. As you tighten the screw, the prongs will bite into the wood, and keep it from turning. They are about a dollar for pack of four, the #10-24 size should be about right, along with a properly sized 24 thread screw or bolt...
VeganJuneDad 9 years ago
He didn't want the look of the screws. This would be a huge eye sore. Additionally, the caster would need to be big enough to host a sized 24 threaded bolt. The wheels he has don't have that, and most in the size range wouldn't either. And I can't see a way for a small caster to have just one attachment point. Most have 4 screw holes, in this size range, not one big 'ol gaping hole for a 1/4" bolt, and they'd likely need more than one.
m.hutchinson 5 years ago
24 is the thread pitch (24=course, 32=fine), not bolt size. #10's fit my casters just fine (#10 are smaller, the casters could use up to #12 or 1/4"). Proper length screws will be flush with the wood. Indeed, casters this size have four holes, spaced in a rectangular pattern. You would use two or four per caster, depending on how much additional strength you needed/wanted to add. There are other ways of attaching, this was just another suggestion.
MarioL111 6 years ago
And nice job with the win.
Katie5757 9 years ago
Check out the manufacturers recommendation about ventilation round your fridge, and ensure you dont have heat dissipating in to the contents of your pantry. It could be an incubator for bacteria and mould in other than dry goods.
godson1952 9 years ago
GOOD IDEA BUT ALOS HEAT RISES UPWARD NOT SIDE WAYS HERE IN THE GREAT NORTH.I THINK IT IS A GREAT IDEA.BUT LIKE YOU SAID CHECK IT BEFORE DOING ANYTHING LIKE THIS FOR HEAT CAN CAUSE A FIRE,ANOTHER GOOD IDEA,CHECK BEFORE ANYTHING CAN HAPPEN.
Katie5757 9 years ago
It is worth double checking what the manufactuer advises.
Well I am in the great south (New Zealand) and I expect physics is the same in the Great North. You have fridges up there??
MarioL111 6 years ago
Yepper, but ours turn clockwise. To anyone asking about heat: if the sides of your fridge are that hot then you have other things to worry about besides spice storage. My 25 cubic foot side-by-side Whirlpool requires only 1/2" clearance for the top and sides and 1" for the back.
rose.bonnar.9 9 years ago
i just dont think it would get that warm in there, it is not tight, there will b some ventilation . maybe i'm wrong . i hope so :)
gulonraid 8 years ago
godson1952, the fridge will not produce enough heat to cause a fire. Even basic untreated wood has an ignition temperature of around 450-500 degrees.
mallocco 9 years ago
Godson, no reason to get dumb and cocky. Fridges have condensing coils either underneath or behind. If the coils are underneath heat comes up around every side of the unit. Most newer models are like this. Rear condensing models have the coils on the back of the unit. In your mind, these models wouldn't have issues because heat rises; but rising warm air must be replaced adequately or a vacuum effect (not a true vacuum) could occur. Placing anything on the side of the fridge could slow or stop airflow; causing the unit to overheat. Katie's advice is a lot more well-founded then you think.
lime3D 9 years ago
Refrigerators vent in the back, not the side.
Katie5757 9 years ago
RebeLeeous 8 years ago
I have a store-bought version of one of these. I've had it for years and never had a problem. Store-bought ones wouldn't exist if they were a fire hazard..
namora 8 years ago
You mean like car seats that fail or air bags that maim? I have never seen these in stores so maybe there is an issue but we don't look for the Good House Keeping seal anymore so things aren't tested until after people die and the lawsuits start. It is the overbearing government dontcha know?
RebeLeeous 8 years ago
Also, those are malfunctioning products, your comparison doesn't work.
RebeLeeous 8 years ago
I've never ever heard of a fire started because of one of these being next to a fridge...Until there is a fire, the argument that it's a fire hazard holds little to no weight. It was uncalled for, for certain individuals to chew out people over what is ultimately just speculation. It is unfair to Boston09 who created this instructable.
lime3D 9 years ago
Katie, I challenge you to produce a SINGLE photograph of a refrigerator with vents on the side.