LED Bikelight V2
Intro: LED Bikelight V2
This is version 2 of the LED Bike Light system. After using version 1 I came to two conclusions:
- They have perfected the LED rear blinky light, don't make your own unless you really want to (I like the Blackburn Mars 3.0 )this is not to discourage you from making your own if you really want to, I'm just saying this blackburn light is bright.
- The headlight is crazy bright, and can be brighter...
This version just has 15 more LED lights, a hi/lo switch and foregoes the rear blinky part.
- They have perfected the LED rear blinky light, don't make your own unless you really want to (I like the Blackburn Mars 3.0 )this is not to discourage you from making your own if you really want to, I'm just saying this blackburn light is bright.
- The headlight is crazy bright, and can be brighter...
This version just has 15 more LED lights, a hi/lo switch and foregoes the rear blinky part.
STEP 1: Parts
33x 55,000 MCD White LED
DPDT Switch
9v battery snap connector (if needed, my 8aa battery holder needs it.)
8aa holder.
Reflector mount.
Breadboard ( I used the PC-403)
DPDT Switch
9v battery snap connector (if needed, my 8aa battery holder needs it.)
8aa holder.
Reflector mount.
Breadboard ( I used the PC-403)
STEP 2: Solder
I am using 8AA which is 12v. (8 x 1.5). The LEDs work from 2.8-4 volts so you will want to solder 3 in series.
I used 6 sets of 3 for the "low beam" setting. Start with the positive on the outside and ending with the negative in the middle. This is important because you will do the same for the next set of LED's so you can share one negative, just for cleaner wiring.
Solder the bottom set of 5x3 LEDs the same way.
Solder the positive wires all together for the top set, and the bottom set.
Run a wire from the positive to the middle posts on the dpdt switch.
Run one wire from the top post to the top set of 6 leds. This makes the low beam setting.
Run two wires from the bottom posts, one to the bottom set of LEDs, the other back to the top set of LEDs.
Cut a 4 feet length of wire back to you battery back, connecting the negative to the middle/negative wires on the circuit board. Now you have a hi/lo headlight.
I used 6 sets of 3 for the "low beam" setting. Start with the positive on the outside and ending with the negative in the middle. This is important because you will do the same for the next set of LED's so you can share one negative, just for cleaner wiring.
Solder the bottom set of 5x3 LEDs the same way.
Solder the positive wires all together for the top set, and the bottom set.
Run a wire from the positive to the middle posts on the dpdt switch.
Run one wire from the top post to the top set of 6 leds. This makes the low beam setting.
Run two wires from the bottom posts, one to the bottom set of LEDs, the other back to the top set of LEDs.
Cut a 4 feet length of wire back to you battery back, connecting the negative to the middle/negative wires on the circuit board. Now you have a hi/lo headlight.
STEP 3: Reflector Holes.
Drill two holes for your reflector mount, and secure with nuts and bolts.
STEP 4: Done.
check out the pics for hi/lo beam action.
20 Comments
jeroenvdd 14 years ago
agulesin 10 years ago
Make a new one :P
Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves 14 years ago
thecookiemonster 15 years ago
Tabrezshariff 15 years ago
me! 15 years ago
imarzouka 16 years ago
http://ledcalculator.net
Myself 17 years ago
Since you're running parallel strings and haven't carefully sorted the individual Vf figures of each LED to come up with balanced strings, you should really have individual dropping resistors per string. They can be fairly low value, just an ohm or two if you can get 'em. If these are omitted, you'll likely end up with a situation where one string, because of Vf variations in the LEDs, passes more current than the others, and since LEDs have a positive temperature coefficient, begins to take even more current, eventually destroying itself.
It looks awesomely bright in the meantime, though. :)
babylonfive 17 years ago
The lack of resistors or a current controller will ultimately fry this design, but until then: "FLAME ON!"
I liked the design where the whole board and part of the LEDs was encased in plastic, allowing all the LEDs to generally be at the same temperature and avoiding the thermal runaway action that would lead to a burn out.
My .02$
n0ukf 16 years ago
trebuchet03 17 years ago
royalestel 17 years ago
y2kkmac 16 years ago
JakeManes 16 years ago
callmeshane 16 years ago
red_metallic 16 years ago
royalestel 17 years ago
i make shooting things 17 years ago
i make shooting things 17 years ago
srry some times my cpu puts in weird stuff
Ignacio_Ramirez 17 years ago