Make a Collapsable Table for Concerts in the Park!
Intro: Make a Collapsable Table for Concerts in the Park!
We saw this table, currently offered by Crate & Barrel, at concert in the park. We couldn't resist cloning it.
UPDATE! I've written another Instructable for a carry bag for this table here.
UPDATE! I've written another Instructable for a carry bag for this table here.
STEP 1: Bill of Materials
1 ea. 48" x 7/8" wooden dowel
3 ea. 2" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
1 ea. 1" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
4 ea. 1/4-20 x 1" Carriage bolts
4 ea. 1/4-20 brass threaded insert nuts
4' x 1" nylon web belt
1/4" staples
3 ea. 2" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
1 ea. 1" x 1/4" x 8' hardwood lattice
4 ea. 1/4-20 x 1" Carriage bolts
4 ea. 1/4-20 brass threaded insert nuts
4' x 1" nylon web belt
1/4" staples
STEP 2: Cut the Dowel
Begin by cutting the dowel into four equal length pieces. Notice that I didn't say 12" pieces. This is because I have not seen a 48" dowel that was actually 48" long in recent years.
STEP 3: Cut the Lattice
Cut the 2" lattice into 24" pieces. You'll need ten of them. I suggest trimming the whole stack at once to make sure they are all of equal length. Be very careful doing this. I used a chop saw and clamped the whole stack to the fence to keep it from shifting.
You'll need two 24" pieces of the 1" lattice too.
You'll need two 24" pieces of the 1" lattice too.
STEP 4: Sand the Ends
Sand the ends of the dowels and planks.
STEP 5: Burn the Nylon Belt
Cut two 24" pieces of nylon web belt and burn the ends with a lighter to keep it from fraying. This is a handy tip when working with nylon cloth too.
STEP 6: Line Up the Planks
Line up the planks using a scrap of the lattice as a spacer to make sure they are spaced evenly. If one side is nicer than the other, place the nicer side down at this point because we are looking at the bottom.
STEP 7: Staple the Belt to the Planks
Make sure the staples are shorter than the thickness of the wood and staple. My stapler isn't very strong so I had to assist it a little...with a hammer. Also pay attention to the surface you are working on because when I tapped the staples with the hammer it marred the other side a little.
STEP 8: Continue Installing Planks
Continue installing planks making sure to move your spacers and keep the web belting pulled snug.
STEP 9: Drill Some Holes
Lay the 1" planks across the table top and drill 1/4" holes in the corners. These 1" planks are spreaders to keep the nylon web belting taut. Enlarge the holes in the tabletop to receive the square head of the carriage bolts.
STEP 10: Install the Spreaders
The table top should look something like this.
STEP 11: Make the Legs
Using a straight edge and a scribe, mark one end of each dowel in the center. Clamp the dowel into a vise and drill a 5/16" hole 1" deep into the end. Note the cardboard wrapped around the wood to protect it from the vise jaws.
DO NOT HOLD THE WOOD IN YOUR HAND WHILE DRILLING!
I suspect there may be a jig for this, but I didn't have one so my holes may not have been perfectly centered.
DO NOT HOLD THE WOOD IN YOUR HAND WHILE DRILLING!
I suspect there may be a jig for this, but I didn't have one so my holes may not have been perfectly centered.
STEP 12: Install the Threaded Inserts
These brass threaded inserts are very delicate and difficult to install squarely. A couple of mine broke, but the inside thread was still good so I didn't have to make new ones. I suspect there's a special tool for this too.
STEP 13: Put It All Together
From here, just screw the legs onto the carriage bolts and filp it over.
When you take it apart it rolls up into a handy little bundle.
You can apply a finish if you like. I often use olive oil or brown Kiwi Brand wax shoe polish.
Don't forget to make the Carry Bag too!
When you take it apart it rolls up into a handy little bundle.
You can apply a finish if you like. I often use olive oil or brown Kiwi Brand wax shoe polish.
Don't forget to make the Carry Bag too!
66 Comments
Teauxni 3 years ago
But, this idea is much better! I already have numerous wood slats with which to make the table top.
Can't wait to have a cookout on the driveway!
(It's the only available space)
monsoonpen 3 years ago
Marsh 3 years ago
HaremCinema 6 years ago
This gives me some great ideas for both my boat and my RV (places where space saving is an art). Thanks.
mlhintx 8 years ago
EmiliaL 8 years ago
san39153 13 years ago
I did find one very helpful improvement to the original instructions. I believe the object in this picture is called a locking blind T-nut. It is much easier to install than threaded inserts and will definitely go on straight. They can be found at Lowes in the Hardwear > Furniture Parts section. Less than $1 each. Pre-drill a hole in each leg, put a few drops of gorilla glue around the pre-drilled hole, then hammer one of these nuts on top your hole (gently, so your leg doesn't split).
The only thing to double check is that the size of your dowel leg is big enough to hold the T-nut, because the locking teeth on the nut need some extra room to bite down.
Good luck and happy tinkering!
drobertson123 9 years ago
Just one warning about these t-nuts. I use them for lots of things and do love them, but they are designed to be put in on the opposite side of the wood from where the bolt enters. In that configuration the pressure of the bolt actually holds the t-nut into the wood.
In this case the t-nut would be on the top of the leg and the tension would be pulling the nut out of the wood. You are also gluing against end grain which doesn't have much strength.
The best solution in this case would probably be a bolt with a barrel nut. They are inserted in a hole drilled perpendicular to the bolt and provide an extremely solid connection in these situations. You find these on furniture all the time and they can be bought at most hardware stores for little cost. Examples below;
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_5_10?url=se...
I love the project and you gave me some great inspiration for something similar. Great job.
Marsh 9 years ago
drobertson123 9 years ago
I happen to really build things and I was just trying to share some of my experience also. Your reply seems a bit defensive and I am sorry if you took what I was suggesting as an attack on your design, but I do believe that for a few extra dollars you would have a connection that is stronger and will last longer.
Your choice is cheaper and that is great, but it is also good to have alternatives and that is all I was offering.
You have a great design that I got some excellent ideas from. I enjoy learning from good project and other peoples thoughts.
cynthiaw1 9 years ago
About how much did this cost you to make? Just want to compare the cost here to the Amazon cost of $40.00.
Marsh 9 years ago
Marsh 9 years ago
bschless 11 years ago
shazni 12 years ago
Marsh 12 years ago
shazni 12 years ago
JimQPublic 12 years ago
Woody71 12 years ago
I'd like to make the legs a bit longer to use as a taller side table. Any suggestions on how to stabilize the legs to minimize wobble?
Thanks!! :-)
cullenroy 13 years ago